3rd Gen Dodge Ram Cummin powered truck info

[Flyinbowtie]

Since I sold my Ford and bought the Dodge I've been neck deep educating myself on these trucks. I felt pretty good about my knowledge of the 7.3 Powerstroke but other than the basics my "file" on the Cummins was sadly limited.
My new to me truck is a 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 Six speed manual quad cab long bed dually. I joined the Turbo Diesel Register, and upped it to a paid membership to gain access to their database, which is huge. Their forums are a wealth of info, and Cumminsforum.com is a close second.

What I have learned....

When the 3rd gen trucks hit the market in 2003 Dodge didn't exactly follow Cummins requirements for the trucks. Cummins spec's a 2 Micron fuel filter for these engines due to the pressure the Common Rail makes. Dodge looked at that and siad nope, we will put a 9 micron filter in the filter housing at the engine. This is not good, and most folks don't know that the reason their 03-07 trucks lose injectors at around 140k is because the fuel filtration is allowing crap through the injectors.
Mopar did come out with a "Heavy duty Auxiliary fuel filter kit", but until recently they only accepted a Mopar dealer only fuel filter.
Baldwin makes a 5 micron filter that fits in the stock housing, it is part number FP7977. Less than 20 bucks...a good start.
That is the first change I made.
I am researching which aftermarket fuel filter kit I am going to add to get down to 2 Micron, leaning towards the Glacier Diesel Performance kit right now.

If you have an automatic trans in these years trucks and you haven't had problems you will. If you use the truck to tow spend the $ and get the biggest trans cooler you can installed, get the valve body updated and a good converter installed. Add the Mag Hytec deep sump trans pan and switch over to Hydrotex Hy-Torque hydraulic fluid for your ATF. The stuff is hard to find, expensive, and worth every dime.

The manual trans trucks are highly sought after. I believe 2005 Dodge was the last year for the cast iron NV trans. Dodge went to a Mercedes Benz designed Getrag G-56 trans. MB and Getrag spec'ed a fluid for this trans that was only available from Mobil Oil. This is tough stuff to find in the USA.
Dodge, in their infinite wisdom, filled them with ATF 4+.
Not good.
One of the best things you can do for your G-56 is to dump that crap out and fill it with Mobil Delvac 50 Synthetic Trans fluid...note that this is NOT ATF, but is a trans fluid. If you tow heavy, Geno's Garage sells a trans cooler lit for the G-56. Two finned aluminum coolers that replace the PTO covers on both sides of the trans. These will add a quart of capacity to your trans. You may have to do some trimming if you are running a 5 inch exhaust.

I have added pillar gauges. Pyro, Boost, and fuel pressure at the filter. The way I went was through Diesel Manor, they sell Autometer gauges that match the stock white face units, and the lighting matches as well. In kit form with all the fittings and stuff you need is a bit more $ but you won't have to make extra trips to the parts store either...

When I was looking for a 5th wheel hitch there was only one I looked at seriously, it was the B&W turnoverball Gooseneck hitch and the Companion 5th wheel unit.
Leaves an empty bed and no rails to deal with when not towing.

I will add as I learn, look forward to other owners of these trucks adding with their information and experience.

 

[pwerwagn]

You're on the right track. Tdr is a wealth of knowledge that isn't muddied up with teenagers, because it costs. I've been a tdr member for nearly 2 decades, and even ran the nm tdr chapter for a while.

I've worked on lots of cummins', I have 3 3rd gems in my driveway now. Ones mine, one has a hole thru the block I'm doing a motor swap on and the other is here for a new t case.

You're right on filtration...and I also run 2 stroke oil in my fuel. I have a fass with better filters, thru the stock filter housing with a Baldwin filter then thru a cat 2um.

If you have any questions just ask. I've done lots of injector jobs, full motors, tons of suspension/ball joint work and upgrades, tuners, trans work, etc to these trucks.

 

[Flyinbowtie]

Pronstar here is the deal on the suspension, but I appreciate any and all input anyone with experience with these trucks has about anything.

I plan to have this truck for 20 years. Like the Ford before it the primary purpose is towing, either the 5'er or the Sanger in the season.

Anyway I am, at some point, going to save up the $ to level the truck. A one ton dually with the 12,200 GVW has the rear high look, and I don't like it. Also don't like the idea of the 5th wheel not riding level and parallel to the top of the bed rails. Once leveled I will add air bags to compensate for the leveling kit and keep the truck level when loaded. The 5'er is a 35 ft unit, not real heavy, grosses at 13kish.
The only off-roading this truck will ever see is getting into and out of camping sites at places like Sand Mountain, Nev. and Dumont, etc. Compared to my OBS Ford this thing rides like a luxury sedan, and, with my back being all screwed up, the last thing I want to do is make the ride worse. I have read about the issues with the front ends on these rigs, this one will not see large tires, I may go to a 265 wide in the front to make it float a bit better but no other mods beyond stock 235s.
It just turned 40k and is still very tight in the front end. I want to do a free spin kit at some point as well, leaning towards Spyntec right now...
So, leveling it out, improved shocks, etc is where I want to go.
Carli doesn't have a leveling package on their website...
You input, again, is much appreciated.

 

[Gelcoater]

Since I sold my Ford and bought the Dodge I've been neck deep educating myself on these trucks. I felt pretty good about my knowledge of the 7.3 Powerstroke but other than the basics my "file" on the Cummins was sadly limited.
My new to me truck is a 2007 Dodge Ram 3500 5.9 Six speed manual quad cab long bed dually. I joined the Turbo Diesel Register, and upped it to a paid membership to gain access to their database, which is huge. Their forums are a wealth of info, and Cumminsforum.com is a close second.

What I have learned....

When the 3rd gen trucks hit the market in 2003 Dodge didn't exactly follow Cummins requirements for the trucks. Cummins spec's a 2 Micron fuel filter for these engines due to the pressure the Common Rail makes. Dodge looked at that and siad nope, we will put a 9 micron filter in the filter housing at the engine. This is not good, and most folks don't know that the reason their 03-07 trucks lose injectors at around 140k is because the fuel filtration is allowing crap through the injectors.
Mopar did come out with a "Heavy duty Auxiliary fuel filter kit", but until recently they only accepted a Mopar dealer only fuel filter.
Baldwin makes a 5 micron filter that fits in the stock housing, it is part number FP7977. Less than 20 bucks...a good start.
That is the first change I made.
I am researching which aftermarket fuel filter kit I am going to add to get down to 2 Micron, leaning towards the Glacier Diesel Performance kit right now.

If you have an automatic trans in these years trucks and you haven't had problems you will. If you use the truck to tow spend the $ and get the biggest trans cooler you can installed, get the valve body updated and a good converter installed. Add the Mag Hytec deep sump trans pan and switch over to Hydrotex Hy-Torque hydraulic fluid for your ATF. The stuff is hard to find, expensive, and worth every dime.

The manual trans trucks are highly sought after. I believe 2005 Dodge was the last year for the cast iron NV trans. Dodge went to a Mercedes Benz designed Getrag G-56 trans. MB and Getrag spec'ed a fluid for this trans that was only available from Mobil Oil. This is tough stuff to find in the USA.
Dodge, in their infinite wisdom, filled them with ATF 4+.
Not good.
One of the best things you can do for your G-56 is to dump that crap out and fill it with Mobil Delvac 50 Synthetic Trans fluid...note that this is NOT ATF, but is a trans fluid. If you tow heavy, Geno's Garage sells a trans cooler lit for the G-56. Two finned aluminum coolers that replace the PTO covers on both sides of the trans. These will add a quart of capacity to your trans. You may have to do some trimming if you are running a 5 inch exhaust.

I have added pillar gauges. Pyro, Boost, and fuel pressure at the filter. The way I went was through Diesel Manor, they sell Autometer gauges that match the stock white face units, and the lighting matches as well. In kit form with all the fittings and stuff you need is a bit more $ but you won't have to make extra trips to the parts store either...

When I was looking for a 5th wheel hitch there was only one I looked at seriously, it was the B&W turnoverball Gooseneck hitch and the Companion 5th wheel unit.
Leaves an empty bed and no rails to deal with when not towing.

I will add as I learn, look forward to other owners of these trucks adding with their information and experience.

I have an 05 3500, drw, 4x4, same cab as you.
I offer to you my experience how limited it is.
How many miles are on yours?
My rear drive shaft center carrier failed at the high 129k-131k ish range....at Glamis. Replace it if you are not sure if it's been done.
I was fortunate to have two guys on leave from the Navy in the Lavey Craft camp do most (ok pretty much all) the labor and cart my crap to town to get access to a press.
By the way that bearing is pressed on.

Stick to those finer fuel filters, I'm one of the few guys you might run across that Cummins long blocked a truck on their dime, in the 50-55k Miles range. Number 6 injector failure and loss of compression. I didn't even know it was broke, the dealer asked how long it has been idling rough. I said ? Huh? It was there for trans issues.
I'll spare you the auto trans work stories (on their dime ) as you got the 6:thumbsup

Other failures included a rear tail lamp electrical widget, battery temp sensor and a heater grid relay. Each was a couple hundy fixed.
Currently I'm at about 140k miles.

 

[spectra3279]

I have an 03 4x4 long bed quad cab dually. I have the nv5600 and just shy of 300k miles. I did the center carrier bearing at about 200k. And it eats upper ball joints like candy. Did the newer t style steering and had the serpentine belt idler pully seize and shear off. Had an altenator go out and a fan clutch. Other than those things have not had any major issues.

I've pulled small buildings from rsm all the way to Idlewild and it just keeps going.

 

[OCMerrill]

I own a 2004 HO 305/555 4x4 Auto. Just an SLT. Total miles at 221k.

Worked every day, pulls dump trailers over 10k in weight, concrete trailers, etc.

Aside from a failed canister mounted lift pump, now a Fass direct replacement mounted on the frame rail, a Throttle Position Sensor APPS they call it, and a new belt tensioner, the engine has ZERO repairs. Original trans but it's getting tired. Actually the Torque Converter is getting tired and the stall speed is increasing so I find myself playing games to get the thing locked up when towing heavy.

I have a failed power seat tilt motor, I have an ebay Ford retro kit I need to install however it failed in my spot and not many drive this thing so whatever.

I have door wind noise and the doors can be bent in slightly to avoid this. See youtube.

My truck has no rattles, leaks nothing, starts and runs the same every day.

How I service.....

1. Lucas Turbo Diesel Truck high Zinc (I'm a non cat truck, don't run this if you have a Cat Converter, always the Fleetguard Stratapore oil filter. Change interval is 10k and I have done oil analysis 3x to conclude this is ideal with the AFE Air Filter. You can't do an oil analysis and run different air filters each time and have real data.
2. Baldwin PF 7977 5 Micron canister filter. Inline debris filter at the Fass Pump.
3. Run Lucas trans fluid from Riverbound in T Case and trans with a Durale Deep pan. Change it every 25k. Difs every 50k with RP 110/140.
4. Run an AFE massive air filter with a dry filter element and outer wear cover - Best mod ever
5. Run the stock HOAT Coolant and my cooling system is original with only one system flush

I also run 315-70-17 tires on the stock steel rims with no lift.

 

[pwerwagn]

I will lead you the same direction pronstar does on suspension (overkill!!!!) We're both dtx guys. The 2 3rd gens we have right now are setup similar to his. We race a 1450 and a 7200 truck, so we double tow 5th wheels, and the race trucks to our local races, pre run with the dodges, then race. Both have 37's on beadlocks big shocks axle trusses fiberglass fenders etc etc. For a soft riding leveling kit, I have done about 18-20 thuren leveling kits with his overland shocks, and everyone loves them. If they tow, I either do timbrens or airbags on daystar cradles. I had 2 Carli bag failures a long time ago, that's why I go that route.

Your 07 *should* have good valve seats with the tighter press fit.

As for injector brand, I've pretty much always ran Don Morrison injectors (I know joe Donnelly pretty well, and he always got me the hook up there). The last few sets I did on a common rail, the owners wanted BBI's. They seem like exceptionally well balanced injectors. They just feel crisp and smooth at idle.
For what it's worth, 75% of inj jobs I've done are between 110-120k, oddly with a large amount of them at 113k.

As far as issues on the front end. Make sure caster is right once leveled. That's the first thing people get wrong. From there, pick your poison. I do highly recommend Carli bj's. other than that, anyone's upgraded track bar, steering, steering box brace, etc will be an improvement.

 

[pwerwagn]

Original trans but it's getting tired. Actually the Torque Converter is getting tired and the stall speed is increasing so I find myself playing games to get the thing locked up when towing heavy.

My trans on my 04.5 is 100% stock as well, its the only thing on the truck untouched. Years ago I put in a tq conv lockup switch and it makes a world of difference. Your trans being the same as mine (non tv motor 48re), I can look up what wires I spliced if you want. I believe I had to put a resistor in there somewhere as well. I think its helped extend the life of my trans a ton, if used correctly.

 

[OCMerrill]

My trans on my 04.5 is 100% stock as well, its the only thing on the truck untouched. Years ago I put in a tq conv lockup switch and it makes a world of difference. Your trans being the same as mine (non tv motor 48re), I can look up what wires I spliced if you want. I believe I had to put a resistor in there somewhere as well. I think its helped extend the life of my trans a ton, if used correctly.

I you would that would be great. I know BD makes a kit but its like 300 bucks but wired in a manner as to no check engine light.

 

[pronstar]

Yeah I'd agree with pwerwagn, you really don't need monster capability.
A leveling kit for these trucks really just raises the front while keeping the rear. I think Thuren Fab has great solutions for you.

You can spec things at this page:
https://www.thurenfabrication.com/p...-and-3500/suspension-systems/build-a-kit.html
...but speaking with Don is probably your best bet.

I don't like spacers like a lot of kits out there, so I'd put his coils up front with his Overland shocks.
In the rear, since this is basically a tow vehicle, I'd leave it as-is with the exception of matching Overland shocks.

I know you don't like the ass-high look, but when you're level empty, you'll squat under load...so you may want to consider a slight bit of rake, or airbags, to ensure you're level when under load/towing.

And I'd update all of the front-end components like pwerwagn mentioned.

My trans on my 04.5 is 100% stock as well, its the only thing on the truck untouched. Years ago I put in a tq conv lockup switch and it makes a world of difference. Your trans being the same as mine (non tv motor 48re), I can look up what wires I spliced if you want. I believe I had to put a resistor in there somewhere as well. I think its helped extend the life of my trans a ton, if used correctly.

I would add a large tranny cooler with a fan to the mix if you tow heavy...though being smart about locking the TC can definitely keep things cool with the OEM cooling system.
The 4-speed has a very wide ratio spread between gears, and lockup doesn't happen until around 40-ish mph...low-speed towing will raise temps very fast, so this solution with a fan will keep things under control.

Also, learn what the tow/haul mode switch functionality is on your truck...I know they changed it around a bit depending on year.
Since you have a 2007 it's what I also had, I can tell you that I basically drove with it on all the time.
It locks the TC a bit quicker, and you can get lockup in second gear at around 40 mph.
Basically helps to keep the heat out, and also a bit more responsive since the factory TC has a lot of slop in it.

Save up around $5k for a tranny rebuild, you'll need one eventually...thankfully once you build a 48RE right, it'll last forever.

Post pics of your build.
I miss that damned truck almost every day...I simply couldn't justify keeping it, but I do regret selling it.
Very stout truck, lots of hard off-road miles and not one squeak, not one rattle. Never left me stranded.

 

[Gelcoater]

Anyone have input on front bumpers for these trucks?
I have the sport package, the bumper is all painted plastic.
I Want some sort of a non pussy, all metal bumper for the impending zombie apocalypse or if the blm idiots block the road.:cool

 

[Flyinbowtie]

Really appreciate the feedback and info here, hope we can keep this rolling.

I was lucky when I bought this truck; it was a one-owner rig with 38.9k on the clock when we bought it. The thing still smells new inside.
Yesterday we did the fluid change on the transmission, got the Delvac 50 in it and the coolers from Genosgarge.com installed.

This is the drivers side, an identical unit on the passenger side, they bolt in place of the PTO covers. They add a quart of additional capacity to the trans.




Here is the Delvac 50, if you do this make sure you get the stuff with the blue lid, the synthetic trans fluid, not ATF...The trans is a bit quieter, although I am told it is a little slower to warm up on cold mornings...I can tell you that this is some of the slipperiest stuff I have ever seen...

 

[pwerwagn]

Anyone have input on front bumpers for these trucks?
I have the sport package, the bumper is all painted plastic.
I Want some sort of a non pussy, all metal bumper for the impending zombie apocalypse or if the blm idiots block the road.:cool

There's lots of options. I've built a few as well.

Road armor, thuren, buckstop, ranch hand etc. All depends if you want something kinda racey, more billy bob style, or just huge. Probably the nicest ones I've helped install were a pair of hand polished stainless reunels with a 16.5 warn up front and 9500 rear. Not my style, but it was 10k$ worth of bumpers.

What color is your sport bumper?

 

[pwerwagn]

Oh and flyin...if you ever need an article from any of the tdr mags, I have em all back to ~02 ish. Lost the earlier issues in a move.

 

[Yellowboat]

Really appreciate the feedback and info here, hope we can keep this rolling.

I was lucky when I bought this truck; it was a one-owner rig with 38.9k on the clock when we bought it. The thing still smells new inside.
Yesterday we did the fluid change on the transmission, got the Delvac 50 in it and the coolers from Genosgarge.com installed.

This is the drivers side, an identical unit on the passenger side, they bolt in place of the PTO covers. They add a quart of additional capacity to the trans.

View attachment 528208


Here is the Delvac 50, if you do this make sure you get the stuff with the blue lid, the synthetic trans fluid, not ATF...The trans is a bit quieter, although I am told it is a little slower to warm up on cold mornings...I can tell you that this is some of the slipperiest stuff I have ever seen...

View attachment 528209

JIMO if you want a truck to live, keep good fluids/filters in it and change them often. I made it a point to always change my oil about every 3000 miles and my tranny fluid every 20k. never had an issue with trucks making it deep into the 3-400s infact I have never worn out a truck, they either get hit or wouldn't pass smog. smog does not apply here so I expect my current truck to last the rest of my life. my only small grip is standard cab, but in reality that's suck a small grip I could careless... well ok the blue int sucks too, but I can live with that.

 

[Gelcoater]

There's lots of options. I've built a few as well.

Road armor, thuren, buckstop, ranch hand etc. All depends if you want something kinda racey, more billy bob style, or just huge. Probably the nicest ones I've helped install were a pair of hand polished stainless reunels with a 16.5 warn up front and 9500 rear. Not my style, but it was 10k$ worth of bumpers.

What color is your sport bumper?

$10k worth....:eek

Maybe I need to go double throw down BillyBob and fab a RR tie front bumper.

Bumper is red. But would consider a black, dark charcoal or hammer finish type deal.
The truck will need paint soon so a dark color bumper might work.

 

[pronstar]

Plasti-Dip your current bumper...?

 

[pwerwagn]

Few options:

https://www.thurenfabrication.com/products/thuren-modular-front-bumper.html

http://www.roadarmor.com/product-search/vehicle/Dodge 2500-3500 2006 - 2009

http://reunel.com/brand/dodge/#fbgallery

https://mercenaryoffroad.com/components/bumpers/dodge-bumpers.html

Or....

 

[tkrrox]

I think I'm the only one in the world that searched for a year for a low mile 2007 5.9 and sold it to replace it with a 6.0 lol. I bought it and couldn't sell it fast enough. I didn't like anything about that truck other than the motor.