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5.3 lifter questions?

fordssuckballs

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has anyone heard a 5.3 lifter have a faint tap at around 3000rpm i just tuned it up oil change i cleared engine light there no codes the engine lights still off but i here a faint tap not a real constant tap mite be a rattle or spark knock im not in denial i bought it like this idk if i should run it or fix it now and other possibilities that it can be its a 07 5.3 flexfuel with 180k and if you know its a lifter please leave you advise on cam kits and proven upgrades for a positive outcome to haveing to go threw the work of replaceing the cam
 

fordssuckballs

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has anyone heard a 5.3 lifter have a faint tap at around 3000rpm i just tuned it up oil change i cleared engine light there no codes the engine lights still off but i here a faint tap not a real constant tap mite be a rattle or spark knock im not in denial i bought it like this idk if i should run it or fix it now and other possibilities that it can be its a 07 5.3 flexfuel with 180k and if you know its a lifter please leave you advise on cam kits and proven upgrades for a positive outcome to haveing to go threw the work of replaceing the cam
it sounds nothing like i heard in videos online
 

Todd Mohr

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I’ve seen broken valve springs on those with high mileage, easy fix.
 

Ziggy

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has anyone heard a 5.3 lifter have a faint tap at around 3000rpm i just tuned it up oil change i cleared engine light there no codes the engine lights still off but i here a faint tap not a real constant tap mite be a rattle or spark knock im not in denial i bought it like this idk if i should run it or fix it now and other possibilities that it can be its a 07 5.3 flexfuel with 180k and if you know its a lifter please leave you advise on cam kits and proven upgrades for a positive outcome to haveing to go threw the work of replaceing the cam
You'd get more answers if posted in the Lounge. Seen many discussions about the 5.3 there.
Welcome to rdp.
 

mash on it

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has anyone heard a 5.3 lifter have a faint tap at around 3000rpm i just tuned it up oil change i cleared engine light there no codes the engine lights still off but i here a faint tap not a real constant tap mite be a rattle or spark knock im not in denial i bought it like this idk if i should run it or fix it now and other possibilities that it can be its a 07 5.3 flexfuel with 180k and if you know its a lifter please leave you advise on cam kits and proven upgrades for a positive outcome to haveing to go threw the work of replaceing the cam
Pat, can I buy a comma please?
Put a 7.3 Power stroke In it.

Dan'l

P.S., Run it till it doesn't.
Then put a take out 100k motor in it.

D
 

Checkmate21

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Ours wiped out the cam and #6 lifter at 96,000 miles. Cylinder deactivation kill the oil to the lifters. To change the cam, you have to pull both heads.
 

BONER

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At 180k, if you replace the lifters, you should replace the cam. If you replace the cam, you should replace the springs. If you replace the springs, you should replace the pushrods, and doesn't stop.

Slippery slope. Replace the valve train or yank the motor and re do it all? At 180k, there are no more Band Aids.

Could also say fuck it, keep the oil clean and the water cool, and let it make noise for another 70k mi till she finally gives up.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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If you have never replaces the screen under the oil pressure sensor, it is probably eating itself.

Delete the DOD. Do a cam, lifters, trays, pushrods and springs.
Tune it and run it.
 

pronstar

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If you have never replaces the screen under the oil pressure sensor, it is probably eating itself.

Delete the DOD. Do a cam, lifters, trays, pushrods and springs.
Tune it and run it.
I’m still trying to figure out if the Gen V LT motors have that screen issue...hoping the lack of info means “no issue”


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Runs2rch

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I’m still trying to figure out if the Gen V LT motors have that screen issue...hoping the lack of info means “no issue”


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I don't think they do. Good oil/filters, change every 5k.
 

rivermobster

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has anyone heard a 5.3 lifter have a faint tap at around 3000rpm i just tuned it up oil change i cleared engine light there no codes the engine lights still off but i here a faint tap not a real constant tap mite be a rattle or spark knock im not in denial i bought it like this idk if i should run it or fix it now and other possibilities that it can be its a 07 5.3 flexfuel with 180k and if you know its a lifter please leave you advise on cam kits and proven upgrades for a positive outcome to haveing to go threw the work of replaceing the cam
Pretty much everyone that owns a 5.3 has heard that noise, Mr Fordsucksballls!

LoL!

(Just playing with you, don't get your panties in a bunch). ;)

13 year old engine, with 180k miles, you have 2 options. Pull it and rebuild it or drive it till it dies and then do option one. No sense in trying to patch up something that old.

Good luck to ya!
 

Checkmate21

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Boner is correct. You do not have to pull the heads to replace the cam. But, usually when the cam goes bad it eats the roller lifter, which ours did. Pulling the heads is necessary to remove and inspect or change the lifters. Since we had the heads off we sent them out and had a valve job done. Most cam problems on these engines is from cylinder deactivation which is done by stopping oil flow to the lifters. A guy down the street has the same problem with his Ram truck with a Hemi in it.
 

monkeyswrench

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Like a few have said, run till she won't, or yank it and go through it. Lots of variables though in terms of down time. Such as is the truck a needed tool for jobs, your weekender or river runner..

It's very easy to pop the coil packs and valve covers, and take a look. From there, you can see if it is a broken spring, or a messed up rocker or trunion. Afternoon diagnosis for cheap, but may be all good. That's when you button it back up and make a decision.

If it lunched a lifter, I've never been a fan of "fixing it". At that point, I personally, would start figuring out motor replacement options. When the lifter dies, it turns motors into a 300hp lathe, cutting the cam. The metal gets everywhere. Sure, the filter does it's thing. The problem is the oil carries the metal everywhere...not something I like to risk.

Like I said though, variables at play. You don't want to break on a road trip, or not have a truck for work, so downtime and scheduling is an issue. Better for you to schedule it, than the truck.
 

pronstar

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For a high-mile vehicle like what OP has, would it make more sense to call LKQ and swap the motor with a used one? They’re dirt cheap.

And delete the cylinder deactivation before installation...

No sense in putting a fully rebuilt engine into a high-mile vehicle IMHO



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