7.4mpi help

[Justsomeguy]

So, last time I was at the river I got an alarm above 3500rpm. Temp Guage looked normal, oil pressure read high if anything. Oil level good. Drive oil level good.

Fast forward to today. I have a rinda and hook it up. I get oil pressure low, engine over heat, general alarm1 and general alarm 2. None of this makes any sense based on what my Guage said and what I'm visually looking at.

Any input from the brain trust?

Also, anyone out here this week. Love to hang out and meet some members. Launching out of jack Smith tomorrow for a test run.

 

[Bpracing1127]

Water pump. If it’s overheating

 

[Fun Times]

Thinking if you are actively getting all 4 of them codes then you may have an negative ground wire/cable issue such as loose or corroded connection somewhere possibly either at the battery or the ECM ground wires at the rear of the engine… General warning 1 and. 2 are for the stern drive gear oil reservoir and transmission overheat should you have had a transmission.

Also know the gauge and ECM read different sensors and warning horn switches so one may show normal while the other thinks something isn’t right.

Since you own one it’s always best to carry your scan tool on board for days like these and hope you never need it.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Thinking if you are actively getting all 4 of them codes then you may have an negative ground wire/cable issue such as loose or corroded connection somewhere possibly either at the battery or the ECM ground wires at the rear of the engine… General warning 1 and. 2 are for the stern drive gear oil reservoir and transmission overheat should you have had a transmission.

Also know the gauge and ECM read different sensors and warning horn switches so one may show normal while the other thinks something isn’t right.

Since you own one it’s always best to carry your scan tool on board for days like these and hope you never need it.

My thoughts actually. I appreciate the input. I love this site. I have had a voltage issue. I'm going to replace battery 2 and check all connections. I suspect this is my issue.

 

[Fun Times]

My thoughts actually. I appreciate the input. I love this site. I have had a voltage issue. I'm going to replace battery 2 and check all connections. I suspect this is my issue.

Yes low positive 12 volt power could do this too… Thoroughly physically check all power wires too to make sure the cables feel okay on the inside the best you can and ensure the alternator is getting close to 14 V, etc..

 

[Justsomeguy]

Thinking if you are actively getting all 4 of them codes then you may have an negative ground wire/cable issue such as loose or corroded connection somewhere possibly either at the battery or the ECM ground wires at the rear of the engine… General warning 1 and. 2 are for the stern drive gear oil reservoir and transmission overheat should you have had a transmission.

Also know the gauge and ECM read different sensors and warning horn switches so one may show normal while the other thinks something isn’t right.

Since you own one it’s always best to carry your scan tool on board for days like these and hope you never need it.

I have no transmission and drive oil is full. Temp Guage read normal. Oil level is good. Oil pressure gauge read 80. Boat was running flawless. But I would get volt spike. I suspect that's the old battery. I'm going to buy a new one tomorrow.

The impeller was done in December as was the oil change and drive oil.

I deleted the codes. Will put a new battery in tomorrow and bring the rinda out with me. I will report back.

 

[Fun Times]

Sometimes the float switch inside the gear lube reservoir can get stuck due to oil sludge build up sounding the horn… sometimes just changing the gear oil isn’t enough… every other oil change or so it’s helpful to clean the inside of the bottle the best you can but don’t disassemble it as the bottle wasn’t meant to be serviced.…. As a test you should be able to disconnect the 2 black wires to see if the horn stops.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Yes low positive 12 volt power could do this too… Thoroughly physically check all power wires too to make sure the cables feel okay on the inside the best you can and ensure the alternator is getting close to 14 V, etc..

Alternator is brand new.

 

[Fun Times]

Alternator is brand new.

Cool, just make sure it’s still doing it job…. The scan tool should tell you that as well.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Cool, just make sure it’s still doing it job…. The scan tool should tell you that as well.

I appreciate all the help

 

[Riverryder]

@Shlbyntro

Maybe there isn’t enough ceramic coating on the boat…

 

[Justsomeguy]

@Shlbyntro

Maybe there isn’t enough ceramic coating on the boat…

Good point, I'll coat the engine tomorrow.

 

[Justsomeguy]

@Shlbyntro

Maybe there isn’t enough ceramic coating on the boat…

Don't you have an exhaust pipe to ceramic coat?

 

[Shlbyntro]

yall are on the right track, I have nothing productive to add. when you get multiple codes all at the same time, its usually a a voltage issue.

 

[Justsomeguy]

yall are on the right track, I have nothing productive to add. when you get multiple codes all at the same time, its usually a a voltage issue.

I appreciate it. That's the only thing that made sense to me when I read all those codes. It's either crazy bad luck or, it's not accurate and something else is happening. I then think voltage or thr computer itself. The auto stores open shortly. I will go get a new battery and check everything over.

I'll report back.

Thanks everyone.

 

[Riverryder]

I will go get a new battery and check everything over.

get the ceramic ones... hahaha


sorry last one.

 

[Justsomeguy]

get the ceramic ones... hahaha


sorry last one.

I'll throw a quick coat on the top of it.

 

[fishing fool]

Have you tried a diffrent prop????

 

[Justsomeguy]

Have you tried a diffrent prop????

I put the 3 blade with a different pitch. Same problems.

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

I put the 3 blade with a different pitch. Same problems.

@Riverryder has a three blade with a different pitch on each blade. He didn't have much luck with it but maybe he'd be nice enough to let you have a try.

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

If you're are replacing one battery... I hate to say it you may want to replace both. Probably not a huge deal on a boat as you can split them. But rule of thumb is to replace the whole bank. Just a heads up hope you're getting to the bottom of you issues so you can enjoy the water.

 

[Justsomeguy]

It was definitely battery or connection to the battery I guess. Since I played with that. All was well until I had no reverse and a dock in front of me.

On to the next problem. I'll be making some calls shortly.

 

[Riverryder]

@Riverryder has a three blade with a different pitch on each blade. He didn't have much luck with it but maybe he'd be nice enough to let you have a try.

hey shouldnt you be out enjoying your vacation!! already have a new one on the way! but yes if he wants to try the multi pitch 3 blade i have he can haha.

i also tried to tell him earlier to replace both but no dice haha

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

hey shouldnt you be out enjoying your vacation!! already have a new one on the way! but yes if he wants to try the multi pitch 3 blade i have he can haha.

i also tried to tell him earlier to replace both but no dice haha

This freaking wind!!

It's a solid 20 Gustin to 45. We're heading up lake tomorrow morning. Girls are all nappin right now.

 

[Waterjunky]

Agreed with the general consensus here, electrical not mechanical. Too many separate things all at once to be mechanical.

 

[LazyLavey]

last year a friend had similar problem.. The power cable that connects to the alternator (ring eye terminal) was corroded and making random contacts... just a thought

 

[4Waters]

It was definitely battery or connection to the battery I guess. Since I played with that. All was well until I had no reverse and a dock in front of me.

On to the next problem. I'll be making some calls shortly.

That one might be a loose nut behind the wheel


SOB, when it rains it pours

 

[Riverryder]

@Justsomeguy i forgot to ask did you ceramic coat the new battery?
did you not cermic coat the outdrive maybe tthats the issue??

 

[Justsomeguy]

@Justsomeguy i forgot to ask did you ceramic coat the new battery?
did you not cermic coat the outdrive maybe tthats the issue??

Just did it. No difference. Boat is one clean paper weight though.

 

[Justsomeguy]

 

[OCMerrill]

I have a 7.4 MPI in my 1997 Essex. Right at 800 hrs now and no issues. However when they run the voltage is high. 14.5v most the time so I agree with the battery vrs ground scenario. When an ECU smears multiple codes like that it basically crying to momma.

This engine is in about 90% of all 24' tp 30' Sea Ray's made from 1995 and up. Being an ocean guy I asked my slip neighbor and he has nearly 2000 hrs on his. They last a long time apparently.

 

[Justsomeguy]

I have a 7.4 MPI in my 1997 Essex. Right at 800 hrs now and no issues. However when they run the voltage is high. 14.5v most the time so I agree with the battery vrs ground scenario. When an ECU smears multiple codes like that it basically crying to momma.

This engine is in about 90% of all 24' tp 30' Sea Ray's made from 1995 and up. Being an ocean guy I asked my slip neighbor and he has nearly 2000 hrs on his. They last a long time apparently.

300 hours when I plugged the computer in. So this is good to hear.

 

[OCMerrill]

300 hours when I plugged the computer in. So this is good to hear.

The faster you go the more electrical demand right? You might be reaching an ECU voltage drop at 3500 RPM.

I also recommend carrying an infrared thermo gun and a voltage meter in your boat box. You can rule out the basics fast this way.

Also are you a sealed cooling system? If your sealed, you can loose water flow and heat stuff up long before the engine heats up.

 

[Justsomeguy]

The faster you go the more electrical demand right? You might be reaching an ECU voltage drop at 3500 RPM.

I also recommend carrying an infrared thermo gun and a voltage meter in your boat box. You can rule out the basics fast this way.

Also are you a sealed cooling system? If your sealed, you can loose water flow and heat stuff up long before the engine heats up.

Not closed. That all seemed fine. The drive...we will find out shortly.

 

[Justsomeguy]

Well. I'll be back on the water. Huge thanks to coast motors group. They got me in and out. I called others and understandably people were slammed.

They were confident based on what I said over the phone it was cable related and they could get it done.

 

[Justsomeguy]

All is well. @Riverryder was right should have done both batteries. I got a quick spike and drop on the Guage when I was in all. The codes came back. I isolated to the new battery and cleared rhe codes. Ran up river all was well. Ran down river all was well. Ran it decent back up again and it was flawless. Best it's ever ran..found a beach now. I'll stop and grab one more on the way back to the house.

Thanks for all the input. But it seems thos issue is done. Enjoy your week everyone.

I leave you with some pictures to help you through the week. @Riverryder, see you tomorrow?

 

[Riverryder]

@Justsomeguy faccckk that beaacch its bitchin!

you have a lily pad? so i dont have to bring mine?

 

[Justsomeguy]

@Justsomeguy faccckk that beaacch its bitchin!

you have a lily pad? so i dont have to bring mine?

Why would I wanna deal with that?