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Any corvette gurus in here.

bonesfab

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The knowledge of this forum amazes me. On that note I acquired another car that if it is what it seems to be it was a good investment. If not I payed a bit much for a clone project. I have never gave a shit about the history of a specific car so I don’t know what’s out there to trace it down. The car in question is a 1969 big block car supposedly a L89 car One of 390 built. And how many survived. The block has the right code but can’t read the vin. I have heard of ways to “raise” it. Just trying to do due diligence to verify what it is.
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Chili Palmer

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You do mean L88, correct? Tri-power 427 cubic inch with the under rated 435 horsepower engine?
 

Chili Palmer

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I feel so cheated, I always thought the L89 configuration was the L88.
 

monkeyswrench

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Are you referring to a deck stamping? If that's the case, light brushing of muriatic acid will give definition between the stamping and the background, due to the density changed by impact...
For body tags, not much help there.
 

boblins

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Not a guru, but have had a 69 L71 (cast iron head) for a very long time now. Lots of stuff on that car looks legit, but on the other hand there has been a bunch of modifying going on over the years (normal) that would have to be corrected if it turns out to be so. Good luck with the project, looks like a good one.
 

LuauLounge

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From 500 miles away, the heads appear to be aluminium.
 

El Rojo

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Didn't those cars have side exhaust pipes? This one appears to have cut-outs for rear exhaust in the rear valance?
 

sirbob

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I don’t know anything about Vetts...

But that 2 stroke Yamaha :)

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530RL

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The tank sticker is what you need to look for.

All the corvette forums have guides as to the best way to look for it.
 

Canuck 1

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Very nice, you will like it once it's running
 

SBMech

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Motor looks right, looks like legit console and gauges appropriate to an L89 ordered vehicle.

Tank sheet or protect-o-plate would help narrow it down, but on the surface it looks like a survivor, exactly what I would want from an initial impression.

Most were ordered with an M21, and were matched with the VIN , same as the block, should have a posi with 355's or 373 gearing, only a few were optioned with 411's. The 55's were most ordered of the two common gearsets.
 

t&y

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Are you referring to a deck stamping? If that's the case, light brushing of muriatic acid will give definition between the stamping and the background, due to the density changed by impact...
For body tags, not much help there.

Yup, we use that technique too.
 

bonesfab

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Motor looks right, looks like legit console and gauges appropriate to an L89 ordered vehicle.

Tank sheet or protect-o-plate would help narrow it down, but on the surface it looks like a survivor, exactly what I would want from an initial impression.

Most were ordered with an M21, and were matched with the VIN , same as the block, should have a posi with 355's or 373 gearing, only a few were optioned with 411's. The 55's were most ordered of the two common gearsets.

The trans number matches the vin. So it is the original trans. I got two third members with the car. Supposedly the original 4.10 out of the car and it supposedly has a 3.08 in it now.
 

howard21

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Valve covers are not correct. The ones on car appear to be aftermarket.
 

MK1MOD0

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That’s quite the find if it’s a real deal L89. It would definitely be worth a full resto! A gold 69 sold for 205K at Barret Jackson Recently. These cars are on the rise.
 

bonesfab

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That’s quite the find if it’s a real deal L89. It would definitely be worth a full resto! A gold 69 sold for 205K at Barret Jackson Recently. These cars are on the rise.
That’s what I like to hear. That’s why I am trying to figure out if it’s real
 

bonesfab

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Love that sound!! Brings me back to my old RD 350s and 400s I used to ride !!!

One day I’d love to have a RZ!

Thats why I found one. Love the sound. I have a new set of chambers for it which should improve the sound some.
 

Flying_Lavey

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Damn! What a find!

My grandpa had an L88 sitting in his garage for years. I was hoping to get it and use it in a project someday but found out he had sold it about 6 months before he passed. Luckily it went to another Road King member so it's still around.

Sent from my LM-G710VM using Tapatalk
 

sirbob

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Thats why I found one. Love the sound. I have a new set of chambers for it which should improve the sound some.


I used to run Bassani's for the sound but they didn't tuck in close / they link felt like wings. The good thing was when ever I went down in a slide the pipes make a good contact point and protected the rest of the bike pretty well.

Great stuff!
 

boatpi

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On the engine number Fading that comes from decking it during a rebuild at one point in time.
As previously mentioned you use muriatic acid

I would suggest using large plastic tweezers and maybe some cotton balls when you put it on, also have a spray bottle filled full of water when you wipe the acid using the cotton swab, let it sit there for just a moment. Then spray the water on slowly, one squeeze maybe. have a camera ready because you may see a flash of the engine number.
if that doesn’t work wipe it very clean do not send the area and repeat the process make sure all the oils off using like a thinner before you even start this. i’ve done this at least 100 times. It is a hit and miss.


The last six are the sequential numbers of the vehicle the VIN, I believe the first numbers may start with 1C.
 

bonesfab

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On the engine number Fading that comes from decking it during a rebuild at one point in time.
As previously mentioned you use muriatic acid

I would suggest using large plastic tweezers and maybe some cotton balls when you put it on, also have a spray bottle filled full of water when you wipe the acid using the cotton swab, let it sit there for just a moment. Then spray the water on slowly, one squeeze maybe. have a camera ready because you may see a flash of the engine number.
if that doesn’t work wipe it very clean do not send the area and repeat the process make sure all the oils off using like a thinner before you even start this. i’ve done this at least 100 times. It is a hit and miss.


The last six are the sequential numbers of the vehicle the VIN, I believe the first numbers may start with 1C.

The sequential is what I am after. The code is visible and is what it should be. The numbers will confirm if it is what it’s supposed to be
 

boatpi

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Good on a rare occasion he might get more results using a 12 V battery with us but try this method first

just don’t put too much acid in it that’s why you wanna wash it a little bit away after you rub it on there it’ll flash for maybe 5 to 7 seconds, have your camera ready no flash.

remember these are very small numbers the roll stamped and 1/8 inch tall, do not confuse them with the Tonawanda engine casting plant number that usually starts with a T.
 
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PDQH2O

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Lately, I have a hankering for another metal bumper C3. That is a big dollar car. Here's a good place for C3 info:


X2 for Corvette Forum. It's the RDP for Corvettes.

The hood in the photos looks like it could be aftermarket as there are no markings on the side of the scoop. As mentioned, the best VIN proof if not on the drivers side lower dash, is the Protector Plate on the fuel tank. That might be more rare than a true L88 or L89. Good luck with your car. Looks like a great project.
 

Carlson-jet

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The trans number matches the vin. So it is the original trans. I got two third members with the car. Supposedly the original 4.10 out of the car and it supposedly has a 3.08 in it now.
Most likely the 3:08 is a series 2 or 3 and the 4:10 a series 4 which is the reason for two different Housings.
Score. 68 is my favorite of that era but nothing wrong with a 69.
Cool Beans. Can't wait to see what it turns into.
 

bonesfab

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Most likely the 3:08 is a series 2 or 3 and the 4:10 a series 4 which is the reason for two different Housings.
Score. 68 is my favorite of that era but nothing wrong with a 69.
Cool Beans. Can't wait to see what it turns into.

I had a nothing special 68 many years ago. Sold it to help with the down payment on the house
 
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