Anybody here have any experience with my Twin 300 promax Carrera 257?

[pwerwagn]

Years ago when I wanted this boat and couldn't make it happen, it seemed like I stumbled across people constantly on perf boats/hot boat/etc that had some personal experience with it. Now that I have it...I can't seem to get in touch with anyone that seemed to know anything? I've tried sending Rocky (boatfloating) a message on PB, Danny (?) that was a carrera rigger, Kevin that supposedly owns the molds now, etc. I can't find some of the old threads I remember, and can't recall everyone's names.

I have the old hot boat articles that list what props were ran on it back then. The decade or so it was here in NM (~01-11/12), it was worked on by a few different marine shops, one of which told me "yeah i remember that boat, it came to us with the lower units on spinning out and setup all wrong...what kind of idiot does that?"

Anyhow, I'm just looking for someone who might have had any setup experience with the boat when it was new. It now has 34" humpback cleavers on it, lowers spinning in, etc. These are the same props that were on it when it left new mexico, and it has no chance in hell of spinning a 34" to 6000+ rpm at this altitude the way its setup (~4500' altitude).

I already posted about the boat on PB and S&F...got some useful info from S&F but not exactly the boat specific details I was hoping for.

Thanks for any info,
Jeff

 

[She's Mine]

That's a nice looking boat.

 

[Cole Trickle]

I sent Rocky a message and let him know about the thread.

Danny unfortunately passed away a couple years back

 

[ONE-A-DAY]

Not sure where you are at but if you can bring it by to see JJ at GIBBS propeller in Havasu he would be a great place to start. He knows his stuff on OB set up. Got my boat from 52 to 73.

 

[dschifan]

For that boat to run right it should have 30p bravos or blasters on it. 34 humpback cleaners if you took interior out no fuel and on a diet with 1 guy. I run 30p labbed bravos, little extra cup and diffuser rings cut on my 300 promaxs. Boat planes fast and tops out at 100 and gets there fast.

 

[pwerwagn]

That's a nice looking boat.

Thanks!!! Its always been one of my favorite boats.

I sent Rocky a message and let him know about the thread.

Danny unfortunately passed away a couple years back

Ahhhhhh I didn't realize that. He was the person I had *assumed* knew the most. Thanks for letting Rocky know. I noticed he hasn't signed in on PB in a few years.

Not sure where you are at but if you can bring it by to see JJ at GIBBS propeller in Havasu he would be a great place to start. He knows his stuff on OB set up. Got my boat from 52 to 73.

Thanks for the info. As its setup now it will still touch 90 with the 34's, but at only ~5200rpm. Any more trim and speed doesn't increase, just RPM. The prop shafts look to be in the ball park height wise (from what I am used to anyways). What got me thinking was the comment from a previous boat shop telling me it was setup all wrong and the lowers were spinning out. Everything I know is opposite of that theory but on this particular boat, who knows.

I figured someone has some decent seat time/setup time with the boat, and could save me a LOT of trial and error tuning. I am already trying to pick up a set of 28" bravos for the time being for normal small lake use, skiing, cruising, whatever. Then I will evaluate if I still need the 34's (if it wont spin them at Havi...I'll have no use for them), or if I can get rid of them in favor of some 30-32" bblades blasters or the like.

Thanks for the info guys,
Jeff

 

[pwerwagn]

For that boat to run right it should have 30p bravos or blasters on it. 34 humpback cleaners if you took interior out no fuel and on a diet with 1 guy. I run 30p labbed bravos, little extra cup and diffuser rings cut on my 300 promaxs. Boat planes fast and tops out at 100 and gets there fast.

Haha you replied while I was. I actually sent you a PM on performance boats as well!!! I recall talking to you a few years back when I was looking at buying an all white HTM with twin outboards and you were in the middle of prop testing.

I will be ~90% at ~4500' altitude, on a relatively small lake where 90 + mph wont be common. So I am thinking 28" bravos. I've read all of your prop threads over and over. Do you think it would pull 30" bravos at altitude? How about pulling up a skier? I have to assume your dcb is going to the closest setup to my carrera, weight/hull/power wise. I am assuming the 257 is a little heavier than a 26 DCB? I don't know why I am assuming that. Are the lowers spinning in or out on your dcb?

My hope is to use the 28" bravos, vented, diffusers cut at my local lake. And ~30-32" blasters for havasu trips. Am I on the right track?

--Jeff

 

[pwerwagn]

For that boat to run right it should have 30p bravos or blasters on it. 34 humpback cleaners if you took interior out no fuel and on a diet with 1 guy. I run 30p labbed bravos, little extra cup and diffuser rings cut on my 300 promaxs. Boat planes fast and tops out at 100 and gets there fast.

And actually...thinking about it, you are the only reason I ended up with my carrera. I was sitting at my desk one morning wanting a boat, wondering if yours was for sale (always wanted an all white DCB with twins, or this carrera)...finding your rebuild thread here on RDP, and somehow it reminded me of the carrera I had always wanted as well. I google'd it...found it...was ironically posted for sale a few days prior, and it all worked out and I wound up with it. So, thank you!!! Lol

 

[STV_Keith]

I'd probably start with the 28's if it were mine. Easier to pitch up if you need to reel in the RPM and pick up some speed than to try to pitch a big prop down. I run Bravo 1's on my Scarab with OB's as well. Good cruise with the 15.25" diameter and stern lifting.

 

[dschifan]

Haha you replied while I was. I actually sent you a PM on performance boats as well!!! I recall talking to you a few years back when I was looking at buying an all white HTM with twin outboards and you were in the middle of prop testing.

I will be ~90% at ~4500' altitude, on a relatively small lake where 90 + mph wont be common. So I am thinking 28" bravos. I've read all of your prop threads over and over. Do you think it would pull 30" bravos at altitude? How about pulling up a skier? I have to assume your dcb is going to the closest setup to my carrera, weight/hull/power wise. I am assuming the 257 is a little heavier than a 26 DCB? I don't know why I am assuming that. Are the lowers spinning in or out on your dcb?

My hope is to use the 28" bravos, vented, diffusers cut at my local lake. And ~30-32" blasters for havasu trips. Am I on the right track?

--Jeff

I'm glad you joined the twin outboards club! You are right on track for sure 28s will be perfect for that altitude . I bet you should pull a skier up no problem but put whale tails on your lowers. 30s in Havasu should be perfect. I run on the limiter with 2 people in the boat with my 30s in 100 degree weather. Yes my motors spin in. The Promax is such a awesome motor. Look up aces octane booster. I run that in every tank the last few years I am a believer for sure. It's very spendy but so is a powerhead. Motor runs so much crisper and gained some rpms. I think our boats are close in weight you will not need 32s unless it's winter and by yourself doing a speed run.

 

[pwerwagn]

I'd probably start with the 28's if it were mine. Easier to pitch up if you need to reel in the RPM and pick up some speed than to try to pitch a big prop down. I run Bravo 1's on my Scarab with OB's as well. Good cruise with the 15.25" diameter and stern lifting.

Thanks Keith! I am actually looking at a set of unvented 28" labbed 15.25" bravos right now. Figured I would try them as is and if it needs venting/diffuser cut off, I can do that later.

I'm glad you joined the twin outboards club! You are right on track for sure 28s will be perfect for that altitude . I bet you should pull a skier up no problem but put whale tails on your lowers. 30s in Havasu should be perfect. I run on the limiter with 2 people in the boat with my 30s in 100 degree weather. Yes my motors spin in. The Promax is such a awesome motor. Look up aces octane booster. I run that in every tank the last few years I am a believer for sure. It's very spendy but so is a powerhead. Motor runs so much crisper and gained some rpms. I think our boats are close in weight you will not need 32s unless it's winter and by yourself doing a speed run.

My lowers have whale tails on them already. I forget what brand. I have done a LOT of research on ACES, and am sold on it for a few reasons. One of the reasons being your ~1000 hours on a power head! Mine have ~390 on them now, but all still have ~115-120 lbs comp. I am also looking at doing the lakeland marine vent kits just for the heck of it. I refilled them the last time per instructions from Steve Sherman on S&F (nice pair) and that seems to work good as well.
Are your 30's still 15.25" or are they turned down to 14.75? What rpm does yours fully limit at? What oil are you running in yours?

I am not seeing a reason to really ever need these 34's. I am definitely not going to start pulling interior and stuff at sea level just to make a top speed run!

Thanks,
Jeff

 

[dschifan]

Thanks Keith! I am actually looking at a set of unvented 28" labbed 15.25" bravos right now. Figured I would try them as is and if it needs venting/diffuser cut off, I can do that later.




My lowers have whale tails on them already. I forget what brand. I have done a LOT of research on ACES, and am sold on it for a few reasons. One of the reasons being your ~1000 hours on a power head! Mine have ~390 on them now, but all still have ~115-120 lbs comp. I am also looking at doing the lakeland marine vent kits just for the heck of it. I refilled them the last time per instructions from Steve Sherman on S&F (nice pair) and that seems to work good as well.
Are your 30's still 15.25" or are they turned down to 14.75? What rpm does yours fully limit at? What oil are you running in yours?

I am not seeing a reason to really ever need these 34's. I am definitely not going to start pulling interior and stuff at sea level just to make a top speed run!

Thanks,

Get the 3 seal carrier from mad efi for your lowers. They are awesome and keep the water out paired with Lakeland ur good to go no blown lowers. I run merc premium plus oil. Same compression on my motors. These motors will go to 2000 hours I was told if you give them Good fuel which is why I run the booster to be safe in event of shitty fuel. From merc I believe it says 92 octane for these motors and everywhere only has 91 at the pump so it's borderline and rather be safe. My props are 15.25. You sound dialed man and should have no problems.

 

[HavaToon]

whale tails on your lowers.

Not to thread jack. But speaking of whale tails, what brand are you using? Did you notice a big difference after installing them? What are the pro and/or cons?

 

[HavaToon]

As for prop recommendation I'd suggest you try a set of the Bravo I OC's. They are 14.75" diameter.

 

[dschifan]

Not to thread jack. But speaking of whale tails, what brand are you using? Did you notice a big difference after installing them? What are the pro and/or cons?

I got mine from drew at boatmasters. They are pretty unique from others i have seen and have a curl at the tail part. Not sure if his guy still manufactures them but they are a huge difference in hole shot and slow speed running. Only negative I can see is a slight more stress on the lower unit but I have never had a problem.

 

[HavaToon]

I got mine from drew at boatmasters. They are pretty unique from others i have seen and have a curl at the tail part. Not sure if his guy still manufactures them but they are a huge difference in hole shot and slow speed running. Only negative I can see is a slight more stress on the lower unit but I have never had a problem.

Thanks, that's exactly where I'd like to see an improvement. I'll have to look into them.

 

[pwerwagn]

The tails on mine are "the edge". I cant say how much they helped the hole shot...but I can say I have zero issues with cavitation while turning, and the holeshot with 34" humpbacks is pretty dang good. I never have actually timed it, but reading the old hot boat reviews of my boat...It definitely planes faster now than it did in those tests (in my opinion). Mine also have a slight "lip" at the rear, not really a curve, but an angle.

I just made an offer on some 28" labbed non vented bravos, figured I would give them a try. At least put me in the ballpark. If they work out, Ill probably have brett at bblades build me some OB/f's, or go with some merc OC's in the 14.75" config.

Heres a few pics of my tails. You can see the curve/lip in the one side pic...

 

[t&y]

View attachment 462583
View attachment 462584

Great looking boat. Question about the rear hatch. It looks like there is not difference between and I/O setup in relation to room allocated for an engine compartment, and the set up with the twins off the back. So what is in that huge space? Seems like if you shortened that hatch you could almost do a play pen style seating behind the drivers seat and have a ton of room to mess around in there.

 

[Member: 71]

Nice looking boat. Always liked the lines on Carrera 257. Good luck on getting it dialed in.

 

[Doc]

Nice boat! You have some good info here already. dchifan info on the seal kit is a plus as well as the vent kits and the ace! Before dropping coin on props I would use bblades exchange programs and try different ones. If you tell Brett your goals with the boat speed wise and if you want to pull a skier he will get you set up.

Sell the 34's as you should get decent money and they should sell fast. I am also hearing good things about merc's ob props and want to try them out myself.

 

[pwerwagn]

Great looking boat. Question about the rear hatch. It looks like there is not difference between and I/O setup in relation to room allocated for an engine compartment, and the set up with the twins off the back. So what is in that huge space? Seems like if you shortened that hatch you could almost do a play pen style seating behind the drivers seat and have a ton of room to mess around in there.

Yeah, its the same inside as the I/O setup. Its just a huge finished compartment. Its carpeted, upholstered, lighted etc. I currently has the oil reservoirs for the motors, the batteries, and thats about it. When it was new, it supposedly had a wakeboard rack/ski rack in there (which is probably what I will end up doing with it). The nice part is I can store the cover in there, tons of life jackets, the kids, a spare boat, maybe a few sheep...

The interior compartment of the carrera is all fiberglass. The rear seat bases, front seat bases, etc are all one piece. It wouldn't be impossible...but not cake to move the rear seats back (although I would LOVE to).

Nice looking boat. Always liked the lines on Carrera 257. Good luck on getting it dialed in.

Thanks!

Nice boat! You have some good info here already. dchifan info on the seal kit is a plus as well as the vent kits and the ace! Before dropping coin on props I would use bblades exchange programs and try different ones. If you tell Brett your goals with the boat speed wise and if you want to pull a skier he will get you set up.

Sell the 34's as you should get decent money and they should sell fast. I am also hearing good things about merc's ob props and want to try them out myself.

I am definitely piecing all the info together I need! Seal kits, oil, Aces, etc.

I am definitely going to use bblades program. I've already talked to Brad. The only reason I am buying these 28's is they are a fantastic deal, and it gives me another data point to give them info. I have a few people interested in the 34's already, I doubt I'll ever have a use for them.

 

[pwerwagn]

Whats the difference between the effect and effect x? I always assumed the 257 effect is closed bow, the effect x is open bow? But Ive seen a few boats for sale that seem to prove my theory incorrect.

Anyone know?

 

[Boatfloating]

Jeff, yep Brandin told me about this thread and that was Dennis Winzen's boat the old owner of Carrera and a friend of mine. Sorry not on PB anymore so never saw PMs. I built the 29' Carrera with twin 300s and ran the 4B cleavers 14.5x28 worked great for me so I would start there and I bet you'll be at 30's 4 blade. I would also make sure your X dimension is set properly as if I remember you have a 12" set back. So if mounted to transom start point is even with bottom of the boat and for ever 12" back you can go up 1" Who ever put 34 wheels on that then must have bumped their head no doubt. Let me know if you need more info.

 

[pwerwagn]

Thanks Rocky! Good to know. I didn't realize it was his personal boat. I know it was here in NM since ~01 (it's titled as an 01), and when it left here in ~12 it had the 34's on it. It spent the last 3 yrs in Stockton and still had the 34's on it. So ya...more than a few people smokin crack!!

It does have 12" setback and the motors are set around 0". It looks like they've been moved up and down a few times.

I see the props on yours were spinning in as well, any idea if this boat was originally setup that way?

Also, in the magazine articles, it mentions a ski rack, which isn't in there. Do you have any idea exactly what it was? There are holes for it.

I also have a few questions regarding the hatch latch/latch limit switch/ski pole limit switch (all of which are no longer hooked up), but I'll take pics to make it clearer.


Lastly...anyone happen to have an extra copy of the January and April 2000 hot boat mag laying around? Brett sent me copies of the articles but only had one copy of each original he didn't want to part with...

Thanks everyone for the advice/suggestions,

Jeff

 

[Boatfloating]

Thanks Rocky! Good to know. I didn't realize it was his personal boat. I know it was here in NM since ~01 (it's titled as an 01), and when it left here in ~12 it had the 34's on it. It spent the last 3 yrs in Stockton and still had the 34's on it. So ya...more than a few people smokin crack!!

It does have 12" setback and the motors are set around 0". It looks like they've been moved up and down a few times.

I see the props on yours were spinning in as well, any idea if this boat was originally setup that way?

Also, in the magazine articles, it mentions a ski rack, which isn't in there. Do you have any idea exactly what it was? There are holes for it.

I also have a few questions regarding the hatch latch/latch limit switch/ski pole limit switch (all of which are no longer hooked up), but I'll take pics to make it clearer.


Lastly...anyone happen to have an extra copy of the January and April 2000 hot boat mag laying around? Brett sent me copies of the articles but only had one copy of each original he didn't want to part with...

Thanks everyone for the advice/suggestions,

Jeff

Dennis was good friends with Dana marine and I believe he built a board/ski rack in the hatch area if I remember right. Dennis had the boat at the Carrera regatta then sent to a dealer for sale in NM. Not sure they had the props turning in the 257 but I'd raise it and start with 28's and make sure water pressure is good and I bet she runs well. The switches I don't know about but I think one raised and lowered the ski pylon. I can ask Dennis if you want?

 

[pwerwagn]

That explains allllll of the Dana marine hardware!! I'll try 28's and raise the motors and go from there.

The switches look like limit switches so you can't open the hatch with the pylon installed, and there is a latch on the hatch (is that common?) that looks like it used to also have some kind of micro switch. All of those have been removed but I can't figure out why, and I'm afraid to fix the latch/install the pylon and one of the kids try to open the hatch and break stuff!!!

If you get a chance, find out if the boat was sold with the ski rack or not?? That would be cool to have! Also...any pictures he has of it I would love to have!!

Thanks Rocky,
Jeff

 

[pwerwagn]

It also looks like this boat has little, if any, wood in it. Can you ask if it was laid up with wood or something else?

 

[playdeep]

Pwerwagn...you live in New Mexico?
I remember when that boat first arrived here in N.M.
It belonged to a guy in Santa fe who worked for Discount tire I believe.
The Carrera dealer (Bo)who lived up there told me that Bill Auberlein was responsible for setting it up & dialing it in.
Used to see it at the Butte all the time.
Nice boat...

 

[pwerwagn]

I do! Spend most of my time at the butte. It originally belonged to a guy named Robby who eventually owned some tool trucks. Bo young was the dealer (young custom marine?). I've never heard the name Bill Auberlein...is he local??

I've had it out at the butte 3 times now since I got it. I'm very excited for the summer! I remember when the boat first showed up here and ALWAYS wanted it. It's literally a dream come true. I have a smaller outboard tunnel at the butte but have always wanted a bigger one with twins.

You still go to the butte?

 

[Faceaz]

Thanks Keith! I am actually looking at a set of unvented 28" labbed 15.25" bravos right now. Figured I would try them as is and if it needs venting/diffuser cut off, I can do that later.




My lowers have whale tails on them already. I forget what brand. I have done a LOT of research on ACES, and am sold on it for a few reasons. One of the reasons being your ~1000 hours on a power head! Mine have ~390 on them now, but all still have ~115-120 lbs comp. I am also looking at doing the lakeland marine vent kits just for the heck of it. I refilled them the last time per instructions from Steve Sherman on S&F (nice pair) and that seems to work good as well.
Are your 30's still 15.25" or are they turned down to 14.75? What rpm does yours fully limit at? What oil are you running in yours?

I am not seeing a reason to really ever need these 34's. I am definitely not going to start pulling interior and stuff at sea level just to make a top speed run!

Thanks,
Jeff

Thanks Keith! I am actually looking at a set of unvented 28" labbed 15.25" bravos right now. Figured I would try them as is and if it needs venting/diffuser cut off, I can do that later.




My lowers have whale tails on them already. I forget what brand. I have done a LOT of research on ACES, and am sold on it for a few reasons. One of the reasons being your ~1000 hours on a power head! Mine have ~390 on them now, but all still have ~115-120 lbs comp. I am also looking at doing the lakeland marine vent kits just for the heck of it. I refilled them the last time per instructions from Steve Sherman on S&F (nice pair) and that seems to work good as well.
Are your 30's still 15.25" or are they turned down to 14.75? What rpm does yours fully limit at? What oil are you running in yours?

I am not seeing a reason to really ever need these 34's. I am definitely not going to start pulling interior and stuff at sea level just to make a top speed run!

Thanks,

Get the 3 seal carrier from mad efi for your lowers. They are awesome and keep the water out paired with Lakeland ur good to go no blown lowers. I run merc premium plus oil. Same compression on my motors. These motors will go to 2000 hours I was told if you give them Good fuel which is why I run the booster to be safe in event of shitty fuel. From merc I believe it says 92 octane for these motors and everywhere only has 91 at the pump so it's borderline and rather be safe. My props are 15.25. You sound dialed man and should have no problems.

Had to redo the Sportmaster on my 300X last year. My understanding is, when surfacing they get hot, the oil expands & some can push past the seals. When you come off plane it cools & can suck water back past the seals. I've been making a point to just back off & let it cool for a min before coming off plane. The vent kit seams like a great idea though.

Question I have, do you guys have a trim gauge? My 300X doesn't have an electrical sensor to run a gauge. So far all I've found is a mechanical gauge with a cable by Jay Smith Racing.

 

[poncho]

And actually...thinking about it, you are the only reason I ended up with my carrera. I was sitting at my desk one morning wanting a boat, wondering if yours was for sale (always wanted an all white DCB with twins, or this carrera)...finding your rebuild thread here on RDP, and somehow it reminded me of the carrera I had always wanted as well. I google'd it...found it...was ironically posted for sale a few days prior, and it all worked out and I wound up with it. So, thank you!!! Lol

Exact reason I like the internet, cool ass story....good luck with the hot rod and congratulations.:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup

 

[pwerwagn]

Exact reason I like the internet, cool ass story....good luck with the hot rod and congratulations.:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup:thumbsup

Haha thank you!! I don't know what I'd do without the internet for sure!!

But yeah, it really was surreal for me for a few weeks. Not only did I always want a 26' or so cat with twins, I wanted this one, or an all white dcb. I recall the summer I graduated high school seeing this boat, and it along with a few other things...motivating me to get an engineering degree. I "pretended" to be interested in it a few times but had no chance in hell of affording it. Fast forward 15 yrs later, and not only do I find the boat I always wanted 1000 miles away, but I could now afford it too! I didn't believe it for a while. Still sometimes think it's a dream!


Mine has a trim gauge in it from bluewater marine. It's mechanical...and doesn't work lol. I'm not sure it ever actually did looking at how it works. Seems like something's missing but I figured out a way to make it work and be adjustable.

 

[ONE-A-DAY]

Where can the Aces stuff be bought?

 

[dschifan]

Where can the Aces stuff be bought?

http://bndautomotive.com/

Make sure ya get the 2 stroke formula. Pretty sure they are only ones who sell it and is who makes it. I buy it every year. I email them directly to place a order.

 

[dschifan]

Had to redo the Sportmaster on my 300X last year. My understanding is, when surfacing they get hot, the oil expands & some can push past the seals. When you come off plane it cools & can suck water back past the seals. I've been making a point to just back off & let it cool for a min before coming off plane. The vent kit seams like a great idea though.

Question I have, do you guys have a trim gauge? My 300X doesn't have an electrical sensor to run a gauge. So far all I've found is a mechanical gauge with a cable by Jay Smith Racing.

Yes that is correct water gets sucked into the shift shafts or drive shaft seals. But only because of shitty single seals or a rusty driveshaft. Reolace the driveshaft to stainless if urs is a old one then add The triple seal carrier mad efi makes solves all those problems as well as shift shafts vent kit then ur bulletproof to a extent.

 

[ONE-A-DAY]

http://bndautomotive.com/

Make sure ya get the 2 stroke formula. Pretty sure they are only ones who sell it and is who makes it. I buy it every year. I email them directly to place a order.

No prices on the site. I'll email them, it's got to be cheaper than running 50/50 race fuel like I do now.

 

[dschifan]

No prices on the site. I'll email them, it's got to be cheaper than running 50/50 race fuel like I do now.

Ya it should be and more convenient. 1 quart bottle is like 90bucks shipped. 1 ounce does 6 gallons of fuel. Still spendy but worth it. I buy 4 quarts a season usually. Here is the guy I always deal with usually through email but give him a ring.


Brian Schubert

BND Automotive LLC

440-821-9040

 

[pwerwagn]

There's also a guy on scream and fly that sells it, works for action mobile marine. They only sell it in gallons, 250 ish$ a gal...

772 528 0754

 

[Stainless]

Late to the thread but I agree with everyone, 34's are too big.
If I remember the 300X max rpm is 6800 at sea level. You probably won't be able to hit that due to elevation, but generally it would be best to find the props that get the highest rpm. Then factor in planing time and rough water ride and you'll probably find Bravo 1 with vent holes to be best all around. The labbed 28's you are looking at should be close to best overall performance.

As for your trim gauge not working you mentioned it has Bluewater indicators, if installed and setup correctly most people regard that as the most accurate.
Mine has Smartcraft and regularly needs to be recalibrated. I have all the Bluewater stuff to put on mine but haven't done so yet. I wish I had bought heads up for the dash and used the Bluewater activators at engines.

 

[pwerwagn]

Late to the thread but I agree with everyone, 34's are too big.
If I remember the 300X max rpm is 6800 at sea level. You probably won't be able to hit that due to elevation, but generally it would be best to find the props that get the highest rpm. Then factor in planing time and rough water ride and you'll probably find Bravo 1 with vent holes to be best all around. The labbed 28's you are looking at should be close to best overall performance.

As for your trim gauge not working you mentioned it has Bluewater indicators, if installed and setup correctly most people regard that as the most accurate.
Mine has Smartcraft and regularly needs to be recalibrated. I have all the Bluewater stuff to put on mine but haven't done so yet. I wish I had bought heads up for the dash and used the Bluewater activators at engines.

Never too late...info is always good info!

So mine is the normal promax, not the X. I understand it has a soft limiter at ~6100-6200, and a hard limiter at 6400. I agree though, I am thinking these 28's are gonna be the ticket with my setup. At least substantially better than these 34's!

So my bluewater indicators, they are 100% mechanical. There is a tube mounted to the engine, and a bracket that has the shaft/cable mounted to the jackplate. They did not work when I got the boat, so I took them apart. I cant figure out how they EVER worked? There is nothing inside the tube or on the shaft to fix the 2 together. I can manually pull the cable out with the motor trimmed up, put it all back together and obviously the indicator will work once, going down. But I cant see how anything ever kept the tube/shaft fixed together allowing the engine to pull the cable as you trim up?

What I decided to do is drill/tap the tube and put a set screw in. That way I can adjust the neutral trim setting as well.

Can anybody give me an idea what these 34's are worth? I was told they were labbed, but have no way of knowing. They look to be in really good shape. I would give them an 8/10 just because they arent brand new?

 

[Stainless]

OP, If they were labbed by Mercury they should have a 5 character code hand stamped on back of hub.
34" hump back labbed cleavers will only appeal to a small audience such as light hulls with 280's or 300's i.e. Skaters with OB's. S&F will be the best place to advertise them, I would start at $400 each and work down. I would only sell as a pair unless left one sells first. I have a set of these just like yours in 32" and I can't swing them either.

 

[pwerwagn]

OP, If they were labbed by Mercury they should have a 5 character code hand stamped on back of hub.
34" hump back labbed cleavers will only appeal to a small audience such as light hulls with 280's or 300's i.e. Skaters with OB's. S&F will be the best place to advertise them, I would start at $400 each and work down. I would only sell as a pair unless left one sells first. I have a set of these just like yours in 32" and I can't swing them either.

Cool, thanks. Ill look for that number.

 

[STV_Keith]

Thanks Keith! I am actually looking at a set of unvented 28" labbed 15.25" bravos right now. Figured I would try them as is and if it needs venting/diffuser cut off, I can do that later.
Thanks,
Jeff

Kevin @ R&R Prop Shop in Henderson cut PVS holes in mine on his CNC. This gives you the ability to put the PVS plugs and smaller openings in the different holes to see what works best. 702-564-7502 if you're looking for that.

Also, I know Rocky said 1" up for every 12" setback, but Kevin says 1" up for every 8" setback, so at 12", you'd be at 1.5" up. Just a FYI.

Aces is good stuff. I run it in my 2.5/260 Merc with 31cc heads at 160# compression at 1oz to 10 gals on top of 93 or the highest pump octane I can get (not race gas). Worked well for me.

 

[pwerwagn]

Kevin @ R&R Prop Shop in Henderson cut PVS holes in mine on his CNC. This gives you the ability to put the PVS plugs and smaller openings in the different holes to see what works best. 702-564-7502 if you're looking for that.

Also, I know Rocky said 1" up for every 12" setback, but Kevin says 1" up for every 8" setback, so at 12", you'd be at 1.5" up. Just a FYI.

Aces is good stuff. I run it in my 2.5/260 Merc with 31cc heads at 160# compression at 1oz to 10 gals on top of 93 or the highest pump octane I can get (not race gas). Worked well for me.

Thanks Keith! I definitely will need to get PVS holes cut and I was hoping to get a solution that was plug-able. I'll have to double check my jackplate, but I think the holes are 1" increment's on mine.

I was hoping to find someone who runs more fuel per oz than 6gal. I was hoping to do 10gal/oz for simplicity. Being at this altitude, I would have to assume I have a tiny big more margin over fuel quality? 91 is the most we have at the pump here as well. We are usually only around ~12.3-12.5psi atmospheric here.

--Jeff

 

[pwerwagn]

So this thread actually led to me getting in touch with the guy that owned my boat here in NM for ~10+ years. Pretty rich history...had a cool conversation with him about it.

At one point it had 300's built by wayne taylor with all the MAD efi stuff on them, 160psi of compression at 5000', etc. He told me he blew 3 powerheads with that setup and sometime in ~03-04 lakeland marine put 2 new merc powerheads on it. So they actually have ~275 hours, not ~390. He said it has an exhaust tuner installed that vents more exhaust out the back instead of out the lower, reeds, and a few other mods. He said it would turn the 34" prop at havasu and ran 110+mph, and he ran a 32" here in new mexico and it would run over 100 at the local lake.

He still has the 32's that were propscanned and labbed by mercury and setup for this boat, I will probably pick those up from him.

Anyhow...Thanks for all of the info from everyone. It all led me to get the information I was looking for in general.

RDP FTW!


--Jeff

 

[STV_Keith]

Thanks Keith! I definitely will need to get PVS holes cut and I was hoping to get a solution that was plug-able. I'll have to double check my jackplate, but I think the holes are 1" increment's on mine.

I was hoping to find someone who runs more fuel per oz than 6gal. I was hoping to do 10gal/oz for simplicity. Being at this altitude, I would have to assume I have a tiny big more margin over fuel quality? 91 is the most we have at the pump here as well. We are usually only around ~12.3-12.5psi atmospheric here.

--Jeff

I used to run 1oz of Aces to 6gals as it calls for, but that it supposed to yield 9 points of octane increase (if my memory serves). My brother ran a 300 drag with 200# compression at sea level in FL on 1oz Aces to 5 gals 93 pump gas and never blew it up. That's the point where I went to 1oz to 10 gals as I really didn't need 100 octane for 160# compression. At 1oz/10gals, I figure it was around 94-95 octane. Worked well for me.

 

[pwerwagn]

I used to run 1oz of Aces to 6gals as it calls for, but that it supposed to yield 9 points of octane increase (if my memory serves). My brother ran a 300 drag with 200# compression at sea level in FL on 1oz Aces to 5 gals 93 pump gas and never blew it up. That's the point where I went to 1oz to 10 gals as I really didn't need 100 octane for 160# compression. At 1oz/10gals, I figure it was around 94-95 octane. Worked well for me.

That's great info. I was reading Jay Smith's story of it on S&F the other day and was blown away with the results of that test.

I am totally sold...and glad to hear about the 1/10. That is the route I will go for sure on this boat at this altitude. That way 1qt will do exactly 8 tank fulls in my boat instead of ~5. I guess you could almost do half (1/12), and still wind up with a solid 93-94 and get almost 400 gallons of fuel out of that quart of additive. That makes it pretty cheap, ~22 cents a gallon if you only buy quarts, or ~15 cents a gallon if you buy in bulk. Hard to argue with that!

Thanks keith and Dschifan.

--Jeff

 

[Boatfloating]

Hey Jeff, I talked with Dennis and he said to give you his number so I'm going to PM it to you now. You can ask all the questions you need.

 

[pwerwagn]

Thanks Rocky!!