Anyone here ever widen an 8' garage door opening?

[skifaster]

Not sure why the genius's designing houses always put the tandem portion of the garage behind a single 8' door opening. Can't fit a boat in it or a full size truck without pulling the mirrors in every time. Doesn't make sense to me why they design it this way. Anyway, has anyone ever widened an 8' garage door opening? I am referring to simply widening the opening, not moving out a side wall. I'm sure you need to do something to the header, just wasn't sure what all would be entailed. Any ideas on cost?

 

[obnoxious001]

Not sure why the genius's designing houses always put the tandem portion of the garage behind a single 8' door opening. Can't fit a boat in it or a full size truck without pulling the mirrors in every time. Doesn't make sense to me why they design it this way. Anyway, has anyone ever widened an 8' garage door opening? I am referring to simply widening the opening, not moving out a side wall. I'm sure you need to do something to the header, just wasn't sure what all would be entailed. Any ideas on cost?

Maybe a photo of what you have would speak many words, particularly what the header looks like from the inside.

 

[Outnumbered]

Not sure why the genius's designing houses always put the tandem portion of the garage behind a single 8' door opening. Can't fit a boat in it or a full size truck without pulling the mirrors in every time. Doesn't make sense to me why they design it this way. Anyway, has anyone ever widened an 8' garage door opening? I am referring to simply widening the opening, not moving out a side wall. I'm sure you need to do something to the header, just wasn't sure what all would be entailed. Any ideas on cost?

You will have to get it engineered and approved by the local building dept. It just depends on how it was built to see how much it will cost. You have lots to deal with like shear, the header span, and maybe footings.

 

[skifaster]

Here is an example. I don't have pics inside as it is more of a general question while house hunting and keep running into the issue.

 

[Outnumbered]

Probably cheaper and easier to find another place or build a detached carport or garage for the boat

 

[Buoy]

Not that big of a deal.
Remove door, build temp support wall 18"-24" back, reframe with new header.
F the engineer/permit.
If you're only looking to gain 1-2 feet you'll be fine.
New door $7-800.
Framing, $200
Exterior all depends on what you're working with.
$2500-3k tops.

Now let the RDP permit police commence...

 

[Tom Brown]

That is not going to be easy or cheap.

On a more constructive note, I hear Schiada is going to build some 12' hulls again.

 

[28Eliminator]

Not that big of a deal.
Remove door, build temp support wall 18"-24" back, reframe with new header.
F the engineer/permit.
If you're only looking to gain 1-2 feet you'll be fine.
New door $7-800.
Framing, $200
Exterior all depends on what you're working with.
$2500-3k tops.

Now let the RDP permit police commence...

^^^^^^^ This^^^^^^^^

Unless you run into a strongwall on a return wall... then of course your fucked

 

[500bbc]

^^^^^^^ This^^^^^^^^

Unless you run into a strongwall on a return wall... then of course your fucked

Then you tear that POS out and throw it away.

 

[Buoy]

And, you can probably get 2-300 for the old door.
The same door opener will work fine.
This is a one-two day project at most. (2 day if dealing with brick or stucco).

 

[Mandelon]

And then someday when you sell the house, be sure to conveniently forget about the door work when you have to sign the disclosures regarding improvements done without permits.

Not legal for a licensed contractor to do it like that (at least in CA)....but i would do it on my own house. LOL Nice double standards I have huh.

 

[28Eliminator]

Then you tear that POS out and throw it away.

 

[was thatguy]

You mean on purpose??

 

[Tom Brown]

Are you guys looking at the same picture I am? He's got an 8' door and there is very little distance between the side of the house and the edge of the door. How much is there? 18 inches?

If it's 18 inches, you have to subtract the wall thickness... let's say 6 inches... plus a tiny bit of door overlap plus the steel channels and mounts. That's going to be another 5~6 inches. I'll bet he's got a whopping 6 inches of space between the edge of the steel channel brackets and the outside wall. On the other side, it looks worse.

If you widen that door, it's going to look like shit. You'd have to move the wall out and widen the whole deal but if you did that, you'd have something. You'd have to rework that roof line and probably add a stub-roof right down the side to the back of the stall. Of course, then you'd lose 2 feet of width from your parking space in the side yard. That would probably be OK.

 

[Buoy]

And then someday when you sell the house, be sure to conveniently forget about the door work when you have to sign the disclosures regarding improvements done without permits.

Not legal for a licensed contractor to do it like that (at least in CA)....but i would do it on my own house. LOL Nice double standards I have huh.

I'd be willing to take that risk.
The odds of someone determining you changed a 8' door to a 9-10 are pretty unlikely.
I wouldn't think twice about it.
But, when I was a kid I ran with scissors in my hand

 

[Tom Brown]

Have you had your stucco tested for asbestos?

 

[Buoy]

Are you guys looking at the same picture I am? He's got an 8' door and there is very little distance between the side of the house and the edge of the door. How much is there? 18 inches?

If it's 18 inches, you have to subtract the wall thickness... let's say 6 inches... plus a tiny bit of door overlap plus the steel channels and mounts. That's going to be another 5~6 inches. I'll bet he's got a whopping 6 inches of space between the edge of the steel channel brackets and the outside wall. On the other side, it looks worse.

If you widen that door, it's going to look like shit. You'd have to move the wall out and widen the whole deal but if you did that, you'd have something. You'd have to rework that roof line and probably add a stub-roof right down the side to the back of the stall. Of course, then you'd lose 2 feet of width from your parking space in the side yard. That would probably be OK.

They aren't steel channels.
They are tracks.
Did you miss the part where he said the pic is only an example???
Obviously, you can't put a 10' door on a 9' wall.
Tom, go back to talking about cell phone platforms.

 

[Buoy]

Oh fuck,
I just took the TB bait...

 

[28Eliminator]

Are you guys looking at the same picture I am? He's got an 8' door and there is very little distance between the side of the house and the edge of the door. How much is there? 18 inches?

If it's 18 inches, you have to subtract the wall thickness... let's say 6 inches... plus a tiny bit of door overlap plus the steel channels and mounts. That's going to be another 5~6 inches. I'll bet he's got a whopping 6 inches of space between the edge of the steel channel brackets and the outside wall. On the other side, it looks worse.

If you widen that door, it's going to look like shit. You'd have to move the wall out and widen the whole deal but if you did that, you'd have something. You'd have to rework that roof line and probably add a stub-roof right down the side to the back of the stall. Of course, then you'd lose 2 feet of width from your parking space in the side yard. That would probably be OK.

Read what he said about the picture he posted Tom, your making an assumption based on false information. Not that that's a bad thing, its just wrong :thumbup:

 

[Tom Brown]

They aren't steel channels.
They are tracks.
Did you miss the part where he said the pic is only an example???
Obviously, you can't put a 10' door on a 9' wall.
Tom, go back to talking about cell phone platforms.

OK. Tracks.

He said "Here is an example." Well... if it looks like that, it's going to be neither easy nor cheap.

 

[Outnumbered]

Based on that pic it looks like he's looking in socal HOA type areas. Good luck bootlegging the new door in that neighborhood without getting caught:thumbsup

 

[500bbc]

Have you had your stucco tested for asbestos?

Pfft, no need, the comparison house in the picture is obviously post asbestos.

Don't forget you need to cut the curb back too.

The city demanded two steel columns, a grade beam and a PSL header to widen my garage door 1' on the single story portion of the house.

 

[Buoy]

Based on that pic it looks like he's looking in socal HOA type areas. Good luck bootlegging the new door in that neighborhood without getting caught:thumbsup

Easier to ask forgiveness than permission

 

[Racey]

Based on that pic it looks like he's looking in socal HOA type areas. Good luck bootlegging the new door in that neighborhood without getting caught:thumbsup

Fuck HOA's :thumbsdown

 

[Tom Brown]

Here's the deal, you can measure the space between the outside of the track and the inside wall on both sides. Add these together and this is the maximum amount you can widen the door, regardless of what you do to the header. The amount of space on the outside between the opening and the edge of the building is not relevant.

... but even if you could widen one of these out, it's probably going to look weird. Of course the HOA is going to notice because the border around the small door is going to be skinny and out of proportion.

You'd have to find a place that has some blank wall space between the edge of the door and the edge of the building. From there, you can cobble together your black-ops widening, new header, and re-finish.

It might be a bit difficult to match that stucco too but I'm not very good at that so there could be a way to make it look good. At the very least, you'll have to re-stucco the entire face of that wall. It shouldn't be a big deal if it has massive garage doors cut into it.

 

[500bbc]

Here's the deal, you can measure the space between the outside of the track and the inside wall on both sides. Add these together and this is the maximum amount you can widen the door, regardless of what you do to the header. The amount of space on the outside between the opening and the edge of the building is not relevant.

... but even if you could widen one of these out, it's probably going to look weird. Of course the HOA is going to notice because the border around the small door is going to be skinny and out of proportion.

You'd have to find a place that has some blank wall space between the edge of the door and the edge of the building. From there, you can cobble together your black-ops widening, new header, and re-finish.

It might be a bit difficult to match that stucco too but I'm not very good at that so there could be a way to make it look good. At the very least, you'll have to re-stucco the entire face of that wall. It shouldn't be a big deal if it has massive garage doors cut into it.

We're not buying into your nonsense without a fully engineered to scale drawing including calcs.

 

[was thatguy]

We're not buying into your nonsense without a fully engineered to scale drawing including calcs.

I understand you can build an app for that with Jolla??

 

[Buoy]

Fuck brown...