Attic fans?

[checkrdpast]

Who is the go to guy in Havasu to install attic fans?

 

[Justfishing]

You dont want them. Nobody lives in an attic

 

[Mandelon]

Isolate the fan from the framing for a quieter installation. If you can run an insulated duct for the supply and even the output it will kill even more of the sound. Run the duct in an S shape. If you can hang the fan from steel strapping and keep it suspended the vibrations will be far less than if it is bolted to the framing/

 

[rivergames]

I put one in my LA house. It definitely keeps the attic cooler, but that fucker is Noisey!

 

[Justfishing]

Is he talking a whole house fan or attic fan.

Attic fan will suck air from the house and cool your attic. You pay to run the fan and more ac.

The biggest heat load in an attic is not air. It is radiant heat from the bottom of the roof to the attic floor. Evaluating that attic to house interface may give better results.

 

[Cobalt232]

We put one in a few years ago in our San Clemente house before we had AC. Worked great. We had to run it last week when the AC was down. Lifesaver to cool it down in the evening. It's loud when on full. Make sure you have a remote control for it.

 

[River Dirt 2]

QuietCool Whole House Fans For Your Home, Attic & Garage

QuietCool's innovative fans improve indoor air quality, comfort & save you money on your energy bill every month. Cut A/C costs up to 50-90%. Call us today!

quietcoolsystems.com

You can actually do both.
Whole house fan when outdoor ambient is cooler than inside temp and attic fan when attic reaches 90 ish. The new controllers and apps make this much easier to do and control.

QuietCool Whole House Fans For Your Home, Attic & Garage

QuietCool's innovative fans improve indoor air quality, comfort & save you money on your energy bill every month. Cut A/C costs up to 50-90%. Call us today!

quietcoolsystems.com

 

[Mr. C]

A gable fan with thermostat in the attic. And also a quiet cool whole house fan is what we have. Wouldn’t have one without the other.
I used a thick rubber pad for the gable fan before mounting. Help eliminate a lot with noise and vibration through the ceiling.

 

[SoCalDave]

My last house I installed the Quiet Cool solar gable fan and the Whole house fan as well. If your in the IE or where it does not cool down enough at night then the whole house would not be for you. The gable mount you can't even here and is a VS DC brush-less motor. The Whole house ones are DC as well so they are very efficient.

Gable mount fan

Whole house fan

 

[HB2Havasu]

I installed a Quiet Cool Whole House Fan a few years ago. It is super easy to do it yourself if you're halfway handy. If I remember it took me approximately 6 hours on a Saturday to do the mechanical install and wire up the electrical. Saved me $1,200

 

[mjc]

I have run one like this on my roof in havasu for years. Sun comes up it turns on off at night. So simple to install with no wires.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Master-Flow-15-Watt-Solar-Powered-Roof-Mount-Attic-Fan-ERVSOLAR/30509

 

[Flying_Lavey]

If you do put in a gable fan or roof mounted solar fan, etc..... make sure you have free flowing eve vents (no insulation covering them) or else air will absolutely be pulled from inside the house. Air, like any fluid, takes the path of lease resistance. Almost best if you could have a push/pull situation with the fans. Controlling the source of the make-up air is always optimal.

 

[Gonefishin5555]

Over the weekend I ordered a high volume window fan. I’m 5 miles from the beach so I should be able to cool off my second story every evening when the outside temp drops and then run it in the morning right before the sun comes up. Curious to see how effective it is.

 

[TCHB]

I put a attic fan in our house. The attic is a lot cooler and I it is very quiet.

 

[DLC]

Do the attic fans work in extreme heat?

today actual -
H 103
low 85

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Do the attic fans work in extreme heat?

today actual -
H 103
low 85

It will get a little air flowing through the attic which will help. Instead of being 145 up there it will be 142

 

[DLC]

It will get a little air flowing through the attic which will help. Instead of being 145 up there it will be 142

Well I hope it’s only like $3500 to get a good set up!

3 or 5 degrees - yahooo!

 

[Uncle Dave]

Both units together are the ticket.

I have the big boy CentricAir 6500 whole house fan, and their gable attic fan.

Both very nice pieces of gear that perform well.
Centric Air uses balanced blade assemblies so you dont really get any vibration from the gable fan and the WHF hangs from a strap so its isolated.

Gable fan is set to come on at 110 and roll until the attic hits 80.

Whole thing is very quiet.

the HHF gets the inside and attic to the night time temps in a very short time and I wake up in the mid to low 60's.
You could hang swinging meat in the house in the morning- I love it.

In a place like Parker or Havasu where it doesnt cool down at night, or where its really humid it isn't going to work.

 

[Uncle Dave]

Do the attic fans work in extreme heat?

today actual -
H 103
low 85

Yes.

Its going to be able to get your attic roughly to the outside temp at night giving your Ac and house a fighting chance for a longer time the next day.

 

[Uncle Dave]

Is he talking a whole house fan or attic fan.

Attic fan will suck air from the house and cool your attic. You pay to run the fan and more ac.

The biggest heat load in an attic is not air. It is radiant heat from the bottom of the roof to the attic floor. Evaluating that attic to house interface may give better results.

The attic fan typically gets its air supply from the roof vents in the sofit or vent ridge , not the air from your house.

The whole house fan pulls from the inside of your house.

 

[Justfishing]

The attic fan typically gets its air supply from the roof vents in the sofit or vent ridge , not the air from your house.

The whole house fan pulls from the inside of your house.

Are you saying there are no air leaks between the house and the attic? The fan puts the attic under negative pressure. It will pull air from whereever there is in opening.

Looking at the current air sealing standards from today versus 10-15 years ago. Also compare air sealing in very energy efficient homes compared to current codes.

 

[DuttonDave]

My last house I installed the Quiet Cool solar gable fan and the Whole house fan as well. If your in the IE or where it does not cool down enough at night then the whole house would not be for you. The gable mount you can't even here and is a VS DC brush-less motor. The Whole house ones are DC as well so they are very efficient.

Gable mount fan

Whole house fan

Nice, how much?

 

[Uncle Dave]

Are you saying there are no air leaks between the house and the attic? The fan puts the attic under negative pressure. It will pull air from whereever there is in opening.

Looking at the current air sealing standards from today versus 10-15 years ago. Also compare air sealing in very energy efficient homes compared to current codes.

Im saying that the attic is filled with vents already and because the path of least resistance is the existing vents - thats where the makeup air will come from - NOT from the house.

Im not saying the there are no air leaks.

It's inaccurate to say the attic fan "pulls from the house" because it primarily pulls from the attic vents.
The WHF primarily pulls from the house.

 

[DWC]

Not sure I’d bother to put one in Havasu. The day/night temps don’t vary enough during the summer months to make it worth while IMO. They work great in Sac/Inland So Cal when it’s hot as balls during the day and cool to 60’s at night.
I installed the Quiet Cool in Chino. Works really good to cool the house down when the sun goes down. I did have to put an additional gable vent in and clear/expand the soffit vents. There wasn’t enough intake and it was causing some issues. Best use is in the early am. I’ll flip it on before I leave for work. Gets cool air in the attic/house to get ready for the afternoon sun.

 

[SoCalDave]

Nice, how much?

The solar powered gable fan was $299 on Amazon. The 120vac smart fan is $269.
The whole house fan was just under $1k and is priced by size of fan needed for your home.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Im saying that the attic is filled with vents already and because the path of least resistance is the existing vents - thats where the makeup air will come from - NOT from the house.

Im not saying the there are no air leaks.

It's inaccurate to say the attic fan "pulls from the house" because it primarily pulls from the attic vents.
The WHF primarily pulls from the house.

I've had this same argument with him several times now. It's of no use. Aparently the faction of a CFM around each electrical and plumbing line are more important that the other open gavel or eve vents....

And when you are using it in a manner like yourself, it COMPLETELY negates his argument.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Not sure I’d bother to put one in Havasu. The day/night temps don’t vary enough during the summer months to make it worth while IMO. They work great in Sac/Inland So Cal when it’s hot as balls during the day and cool to 60’s at night.
I installed the Quiet Cool in Chino. Works really good to cool the house down when the sun goes down. I did have to put an additional gable vent in and clear/expand the soffit vents. There wasn’t enough intake and it was causing some issues. Best use is in the early am. I’ll flip it on before I leave for work. Gets cool air in the attic/house to get ready for the afternoon sun.

This. In So Cal the the WHF was awesome in the spring and fall. It didn’t do much in late July-September. I used it in the evenings in spring and fall when the air was cool instead of the AC.

I don’t see either being that effective in Havasu. Attic fan perhaps to get the attic temps back to mid 90s at night .

 

[Justfishing]

From this old house

One reason that attic fans are inefficient is that they rely on the existing attic vents (at the soffits, ridge, or gables) to make up the air they exhaust. Usually, these attic vents are not designed for this purpose, and they may not be able to supply enough replacement air. That can put the attic at a lower pressure than the upper floor of the house, which sucks conditioned air into the attic through holes for recessed lights, attic stairs, whole-house fans, and the like.

Conditioned air can also be sucked directly out of unsealed ducts in the attic. In this situation, adding attic fans can cost you more cooling dollars than not having a fan.


H

Don’t Let Your Attic Suck - Power Attic Ventilators Are a Bad Idea - Energy Vanguard

Trade shows can be both educational and infuriating, and there’s one product I see at a lot of trade shows that fits easily into the latter category – power attic ventilators. The variety of this device that’s been popular lately…

www.energyvanguard.com

 

[Mr. C]

Not in Havasu.
But we use WHF almost every morning when i get up for work ( 4:30ish). the outside temp is only down to 70-72 this time of year but it still is fresh cool air and not the AC.
We open a couple windows downstairs and couple bedroom windows upstairs . Run the fan for about an hour or 2. brings in fresh air and also cools the attic down before the heat of the day and then gable fan has a fighting chance to keep it cooler.

 

[Justfishing]

I've had this same argument with him several times now. It's of no use. Aparently the faction of a CFM around each electrical and plumbing line are more important that the other open gavel or eve vents....

And when you are using it in a manner like yourself, it COMPLETELY negates his argument.

Lets ignore phyics and laws of thermal dynamics.

First off the flow of air is caused by pressure differences. If the air pressure on one side of an opening is greater than on the other air will flow.

A fan blowing out will lower the pressure in the entire attic. Will this pressure be equal in all areas of the attic? No, closet to the fan will have the lowest pressure.

More air will flow from larger openings. But air will flow through all opening that have a higher pressure. Many of the small openings will be nearer the fan and see a higher negative pressure. The total area of small leaks could be as great as vents.

Some air handlers can put a home in a positive pressure state now you are helping it push more air out.

If you have air ducts and an air handler in the attic. These can be a little leaky or a lot leaky.

Now lets get into thermodynamics. Can we agree hot air rises. If your attic is properly vented then the hot air flows up and out. Are you saying that hot air is also flowing down into the house? Radiant heat flows through the air. The greater the ∆t is the more radiant heat flow. The underside of the sheathing is the hottest surface. If you could see randiant heat is would be like shining a spot light from the bottom of the sheathing on to the insulation. The hotter the roof the brighter this light would be.

Since radiant heat is primary then cooling the air has little effect. A radiant barrier can be used to block radiant heat. Materials are cheap but labor is expensive. Also the more insulation you have the less effective it becomes. Insulation creates a barrier for conductive heat flow and also radiant heat flow.

I will take my information from guys like Joseph Lstiburek Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow
Principal, Building Science Corporation. People who study and test versus the guy down the street.

 

[Uncle Dave]

Lets ignore phyics and laws of thermal dynamics.

First off the flow of air is caused by pressure differences. If the air pressure on one side of an opening is greater than on the other air will flow.

A fan blowing out will lower the pressure in the entire attic. Will this pressure be equal in all areas of the attic? No, closet to the fan will have the lowest pressure.

More air will flow from larger openings. But air will flow through all opening that have a higher pressure. Many of the small openings will be nearer the fan and see a higher negative pressure. The total area of small leaks could be as great as vents.

Some air handlers can put a home in a positive pressure state now you are helping it push more air out.

If you have air ducts and an air handler in the attic. These can be a little leaky or a lot leaky.

Now lets get into thermodynamics. Can we agree hot air rises. If your attic is properly vented then the hot air flows up and out. Are you saying that hot air is also flowing down into the house? Radiant heat flows through the air. The greater the ∆t is the more radiant heat flow. The underside of the sheathing is the hottest surface. If you could see randiant heat is would be like shining a spot light from the bottom of the sheathing on to the insulation. The hotter the roof the brighter this light would be.

Since radiant heat is primary then cooling the air has little effect. A radiant barrier can be used to block radiant heat. Materials are cheap but labor is expensive. Also the more insulation you have the less effective it becomes. Insulation creates a barrier for conductive heat flow and also radiant heat flow.

I will take my information from guys like Joseph Lstiburek Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow
Principal, Building Science Corporation. People who study and test versus the guy down the street.

" Could be"

What are the odds in properly Vented attic you'll pull much if anything out of the house and if indeed its a small amount how relevant is that?

Your position is that raging hot hot attic adds zero heat to the rest of the home because its higher up and that a hot ceiling in no way heats the room below or adjacent to it? What about the life of the roof and the items that may be stored in the attic?



Whats your solution to cool the Attic?

 

[Taboma]

From this old house

One reason that attic fans are inefficient is that they rely on the existing attic vents (at the soffits, ridge, or gables) to make up the air they exhaust. Usually, these attic vents are not designed for this purpose, and they may not be able to supply enough replacement air. That can put the attic at a lower pressure than the upper floor of the house, which sucks conditioned air into the attic through holes for recessed lights, attic stairs, whole-house fans, and the like.

Conditioned air can also be sucked directly out of unsealed ducts in the attic. In this situation, adding attic fans can cost you more cooling dollars than not having a fan.


H

Don’t Let Your Attic Suck - Power Attic Ventilators Are a Bad Idea - Energy Vanguard

Trade shows can be both educational and infuriating, and there’s one product I see at a lot of trade shows that fits easily into the latter category – power attic ventilators. The variety of this device that’s been popular lately…

www.energyvanguard.com

This is very true, of course the extent depending on numerous variables.
I actually encountered this in the inverse. In our old (Mid 70's) pre-fire home, we had what we felt was more than adequate attic ventilation. Two large gable vents, every soffit, every eve (Most of those blocked with insulated batts), even two large whirly birds. Despite those, crank up that whole house fan and you could feel hot air coming out of registers and over time, small dirty streaks appeared around outlets and ceiling light fixtures.
In our rebuilt home, with extreme fire codes mandated by our fire prone proximity, that attic ventilation is now highly restrictive with special approved ember resistant vents and rather flush designed O'Hagen roof vents that are media filled, again to be ember resistant. In addition, to meet the energy codes, every penetration between the interior and attic was foamed sealed as were every wall box opening.
Calculations accounting for the homes incredible "R" Rating, and medium sized solar system, it made far more economical sense to just run the two stage heat pump than any whole house fan.
I can't argue those calcs since in the 12 years we rebuilt, our 100% electric home has yet to cost us a dime in SDG&E's favor.

 

[fishing fool]

Lets put it into the simplest form........... attic temp 100+ outside air 100, by replacing HOTTER attic air with cooler outside air the interior of the house will be cooler.

Lets ignore phyics and laws of thermal dynamics.

First off the flow of air is caused by pressure differences. If the air pressure on one side of an opening is greater than on the other air will flow.

A fan blowing out will lower the pressure in the entire attic. Will this pressure be equal in all areas of the attic? No, closet to the fan will have the lowest pressure.

More air will flow from larger openings. But air will flow through all opening that have a higher pressure. Many of the small openings will be nearer the fan and see a higher negative pressure. The total area of small leaks could be as great as vents.

Some air handlers can put a home in a positive pressure state now you are helping it push more air out.

If you have air ducts and an air handler in the attic. These can be a little leaky or a lot leaky.

Now lets get into thermodynamics. Can we agree hot air rises. If your attic is properly vented then the hot air flows up and out. Are you saying that hot air is also flowing down into the house? Radiant heat flows through the air. The greater the ∆t is the more radiant heat flow. The underside of the sheathing is the hottest surface. If you could see randiant heat is would be like shining a spot light from the bottom of the sheathing on to the insulation. The hotter the roof the brighter this light would be.

Since radiant heat is primary then cooling the air has little effect. A radiant barrier can be used to block radiant heat. Materials are cheap but labor is expensive. Also the more insulation you have the less effective it becomes. Insulation creates a barrier for conductive heat flow and also radiant heat flow.

I will take my information from guys like Joseph Lstiburek Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow
Principal, Building Science Corporation. People who study and test versus the guy down the street.

 

[4Waters]

Lets ignore phyics and laws of thermal dynamics.

First off the flow of air is caused by pressure differences. If the air pressure on one side of an opening is greater than on the other air will flow.

A fan blowing out will lower the pressure in the entire attic. Will this pressure be equal in all areas of the attic? No, closet to the fan will have the lowest pressure.

More air will flow from larger openings. But air will flow through all opening that have a higher pressure. Many of the small openings will be nearer the fan and see a higher negative pressure. The total area of small leaks could be as great as vents.

Some air handlers can put a home in a positive pressure state now you are helping it push more air out.

If you have air ducts and an air handler in the attic. These can be a little leaky or a lot leaky.

Now lets get into thermodynamics. Can we agree hot air rises. If your attic is properly vented then the hot air flows up and out. Are you saying that hot air is also flowing down into the house? Radiant heat flows through the air. The greater the ∆t is the more radiant heat flow. The underside of the sheathing is the hottest surface. If you could see randiant heat is would be like shining a spot light from the bottom of the sheathing on to the insulation. The hotter the roof the brighter this light would be.

Since radiant heat is primary then cooling the air has little effect. A radiant barrier can be used to block radiant heat. Materials are cheap but labor is expensive. Also the more insulation you have the less effective it becomes. Insulation creates a barrier for conductive heat flow and also radiant heat flow.

I will take my information from guys like Joseph Lstiburek Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow
Principal, Building Science Corporation. People who study and test versus the guy down the street.

You don't get it at all

 

[Uncle Dave]

Assuming centric computed the WHF ceiling box to be able to flow the rated 6500 CFM and they rated the attic fan at 1500 CFM.

My attic has 10X the space in vent openings (or more) than the size of that ceiling damper box

Im finding it hard to believe a mere 1500 CFM fan is going to be able to pull negative pressure beyond these local vents much if at all - if I have leaky ducts Ok- sure.

Whats the HVAC guys proper and correct measurement of vent opening size to CFM flow ?

 

[4Waters]

Assuming centric computed the WHF ceiling box to be able to flow the rated 6500 CFM and they rated the attic fan at 1500 CFM.

My attic has 10X the space in vent openings (or more) than the size of that ceiling damper box

Im finding it hard to believe a mere 1500 CFM fan is going to be able to pull negative pressure beyond these local vents much if at all - if I have leaky ducts Ok- sure.

Whats the HVAC guys proper and correct measurement of vent opening size to CFM flow ?

Now come on!! Quit using math and logic here!!

 

[Uncle Dave]

Now come on!! Quit using math and logic here!!

I'm always open to learning.

 

[badgas]

How much to windows play into home cooling ?

Window companies say it's a big deal HVAC companies say windows do very little.

Any real word examples of how much good windows help ?

I'm in So Cal never ever run the heater but the AC runds from July-Sept.

 

[Mr. C]

How much to windows play into home cooling ?

Window companies say it's a big deal HVAC companies say windows do very little.

Any real word examples of how much good windows help ?

I'm in So Cal never ever run the heater but the AC runds from July-Sept.

I can't tell you from them being installed, BUT we had Anderson windows out awhile back for an estimate. through their demonstration
he put a heat light behind various companies dual pain windows window samples. as you went up in price the heat displacement was obvious.
Literally no heat came through the Anderson window, where some of the windows you couldn't even touch. the quote was also about 110k but with discount he was offering only 80ish. we passed, that's a lot of AC money

 

[Uncle Dave]

How much to windows play into home cooling ?

Window companies say it's a big deal HVAC companies say windows do very little.

Any real word examples of how much good windows help ?

I'm in So Cal never ever run the heater but the AC runds from July-Sept.

A bunch.

Every trade is at odds with the others in regards to getting available budgets.

The window guy will always tell you you'll need less AC with better windows, and the HVAC guy will tell you a bigger better variable speed and capacity system installed with his knowledge will return a better ROI than the windows.

Everything matters and it all adds up.

I just did windows in LA and it made a huge difference.

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Lets ignore phyics and laws of thermal dynamics.

First off the flow of air is caused by pressure differences. If the air pressure on one side of an opening is greater than on the other air will flow.

A fan blowing out will lower the pressure in the entire attic. Will this pressure be equal in all areas of the attic? No, closet to the fan will have the lowest pressure.

More air will flow from larger openings. But air will flow through all opening that have a higher pressure. Many of the small openings will be nearer the fan and see a higher negative pressure. The total area of small leaks could be as great as vents.

Some air handlers can put a home in a positive pressure state now you are helping it push more air out.

If you have air ducts and an air handler in the attic. These can be a little leaky or a lot leaky.

Now lets get into thermodynamics. Can we agree hot air rises. If your attic is properly vented then the hot air flows up and out. Are you saying that hot air is also flowing down into the house? Radiant heat flows through the air. The greater the ∆t is the more radiant heat flow. The underside of the sheathing is the hottest surface. If you could see randiant heat is would be like shining a spot light from the bottom of the sheathing on to the insulation. The hotter the roof the brighter this light would be.

Since radiant heat is primary then cooling the air has little effect. A radiant barrier can be used to block radiant heat. Materials are cheap but labor is expensive. Also the more insulation you have the less effective it becomes. Insulation creates a barrier for conductive heat flow and also radiant heat flow.

I will take my information from guys like Joseph Lstiburek Ph.D., P.Eng., ASHRAE Fellow
Principal, Building Science Corporation. People who study and test versus the guy down the street.

Look up Fourier's Law. It is the calculations for heat transfer through a wall. One of the LARGEST integers in the formula is the Delta T value. The difference between the 2 different sides of the wall. This is ambient temp, AKA air temp. It is common on 100+ degree days for a standard attic to get up to 140+ degrees (I know, I used to have to work in them). If you have a interior space of 76, that gives you a multiplier of 64 degrees. Now, if you can install an attic fan in a properly ventilated attic and reduce that attic temperature down to 110 - 120, your multiplier has now dropped 20 to 30 degrees. That is a MASSIVE load difference.

All those scenarios for air leakage into the attic do not take into account insulation laying on top of those cracks and leaks. Will air still pass through, absolutely! But being it is impeded and there are other paths that are MUCH freer flowing, the air coming through those cracks will be miniscule at best.

Yes, thermal dynamics, ala convection, is a great way to naturally ventilate an attic. Assuming the ventilation openings and outlets are all in the correct locations and un-impeded. Adding a miniscule amp draw (usually less than that of an incandescent light bulb) electric motor to assist in the process can help a poorly designed attic work better.

Also, heat moves from high to low. Hot AIR rises. Heat doesn't have a direction besides high to low. Materials' thermal conductivity has more impedance to heat transferring into a structure than any sort of convection out of the interior of the space.

If the HVAC system is pressurizing the attic space, then you have FAR larger fish to fry than concerning yourself over the tiny amp draw of an attic fan.

How much to windows play into home cooling ?

Window companies say it's a big deal HVAC companies say windows do very little.

Any real word examples of how much good windows help ?

I'm in So Cal never ever run the heater but the AC runds from July-Sept.

What HVAC guy doesn't say windows play a huge role? They play a MASSIVE role. Specially depending on their orientation (North, West, East, South). I could do heat load calcs to illustrate, but just don't quite have the time ATM.

My parents replaced all their old single pan double hung original 1970's wood frame windows with new double pane vinyl windows and had a LARGE electricity reduction (I cant remember what it was they told me). The house is A LOT more comfortable inside as well.

 

[bilz]

Not as knowledgeable as some on this subject but the ass and hand thermometer (similar to the butt dyno) say there is a difference in doors and windows. I replaced a 90's vintage dual pane door with a lowes purchased door with two sidelights. You can absolutely feel there is now less heat entering the home. Please remember, the butt dyno never lies.

 

[badgas]

A bunch.

Every trade is at odds with the others in regards to getting available budgets.

The window guy will always tell you you'll need less AC with better windows, and the HVAC guy will tell you a bigger better variable speed and capacity system installed with his knowledge will return a better ROI than the windows.

Everything matters and it all adds up.

I just did windows in LA and it made a huge difference.

I'm waiting a bid for windows at the moment. As you know i'm also collecting bids for Solar and looking into the attic as well.

Does it make sense to do the windows make sure the attic is properly insulated and ventilated to get better Electricy usage numbers before going Solar?

 

[Uncle Dave]

I'm waiting a bid for windows at the moment. As you know i'm also collecting bids for Solar and looking into the attic as well.

Does it make sense to do the windows make sure the attic is properly insulated and ventilated to get better Electricy usage numbers before going Solar?

The lower you get your usage the faster ROI you will get from the solar investment.

Windows and solar is going to be brutal but they are smart moves that will pay off over time.

You are adulting hard here sir.

Im similarly spending large on home projects myself when a new truck would be far more fun.....

 

[badgas]

The lower you get your usage the faster ROI you will get from the solar investment.

Windows and solar is going to be brutal but they are smart moves that will pay off over time.

You are adulting hard here sir.

Im similarly spending large on home projects myself when a new truck would be far more fun.....

Yeah It's not a fun purchase at all but at some point I have to reign in the utilty bills. I average $400 from SCE this month will be $650

The windows are still a maybe but I'm 95% sure the solar is going to happen.

 

[Mr. C]

Yeah It's not a fun purchase at all but at some point I have to reign in the utilty bills. I average $400 from SCE this month will be $650

The windows are still a maybe but I'm 95% sure the solar is going to happen.

I know we started out on attic fans But about 7 years ago when we averaging over 850 a month for the year. Had my mother in law living with us. Oxygen generator. 3 special braille teadimg lights on almost 24 /7. Old ac. Had to lease my solar cause tough times I couldn’t afford buy then.
Anywho. MIL has passed and new AC from riverbound. Still have old school pump for the pool. But long story longer. My solar lease is a little over 200 (39 panels) forget the output. And I still am paying Edison now in some about 125. But still a hell of a long way 850 average or over 1k for the last two months.
I would say solar is your priority from my experiences

 

[badgas]

I know we started out on attic fans But about 7 years ago when we averaging over 850 a month for the year. Had my mother in living with us. Oxygen generator. 3 special braille trading lights on almost 24 /7. Old ac. Had to lease my solar cause tough times I couldn’t afford buy then.
Anywho. MIL has passed and new AC from riverbound. Still have old school pump for the pool. But long story longer. My solar lease is a little over 200 (39 panels) forget the output. And I still am paying Edison now in some about 125. But still a hell of a long way 850 average or over 1k for the last two months.
I would say solar is your priority from my experiences

Yeah If the solar produces what they say ( 18,000-19,000 kWh ) then it will cover all of my other energy sins like old HVAC, bad windows and ols school pool pump. I currently use a little over 16,000 kWh

 

[Flying_Lavey]

Yeah If the solar produces what they say ( 18,000-19,000 kWh ) then it will cover all of my other energy sins like old HVAC, bad windows and ols school pool pump. I currently use a little over 16,000 kWh

Have baysilhayden read over the proposal if possible. I know many companies quote the absolute highest possible output numbers from the panels and not the realistic numbers (cloud cover, dusty panels even when kept up, shadows, etc).

 

[Uncle Dave]

Yeah If the solar produces what they say ( 18,000-19,000 kWh ) then it will cover all of my other energy sins like old HVAC, bad windows and ols school pool pump. I currently use a little over 16,000 kWh

Yowsa thats some juice, how many panels and which inverters are you looking at?

 

[Mr. C]

Yowsa thats some juice, how many panels and which inverters are you looking at?

I was gonna say that as well. I think I’m “only” 12-13 kWH. With 39 panels.