Automatic Brake Probem on a Flatbed Trailer.

[floatn turd]

Dear RDP Peeps,

I have this set up seen below.

Long story short......

Is there a way to turn off, bypass or disconnect the "brake assist" function on the trailer AND still have trailer lights?

I want to tow it like a normal trailer with zero trailer brake help.

Please let me know what you guys think.

Thank you
FT

 

[sintax]

not an elegant solution, but you could run a 8 into 4 and then a 4 into 8 connector, assuming you dont have a 4pin off to the right of that 8pin, if thats the case, just run a 8 into 4 and be done

outside of that, you'll be doing some wiring.

thats why i just borrow @RiverDave's community trailer, always ready to roll!

 

[dirtslinger2]

Can't you just adjust your brake gain to zero from your truck?

 

[catmandu]

Remove the battery from the box, it’s only function is to stop the trailer if it ever became disconnected from the truck while at speed

 

[monkeyswrench]

Later trucks have a trailer brake circuit, pull that fuse and the controller won't power the brakes. Tail and brake lights are a separate circuit and not effected. Can also unplug controller if aftermarket.

 

[mash on it]

Does the 7 way trailer connector come apart? (some don't) Remove the blue wire.

Dan'l

 

[floatn turd]

Can't you just adjust your brake gain to zero from your truck?

It's 06.
There is this
Little guy and I do believe it is at zero.

 

[floatn turd]

Later trucks have a trailer brake circuit, pull that fuse and the controller won't power the brakes. Tail and brake lights are a separate circuit and not effected. Can also unplug controller if aftermarket.

It's 06, I'll check that fuse.
But there is a regular 4 pin next to the 8.
Maybe I'll just run it to the 4 pin. That sounds like a simple fix.

 

[boatpi]

Why not run the brakes, you may need them, play safe.

 

[floatn turd]

Well,
I need to trouble shoot a problem.

I was pulling that trailer on Saturday with a 2 seat CamAm on it.
The fwy was level and it was not hot out.

My engine temp and oil temp were ride'n about 20 degrees above norm.
And not within the normal 3 to 6 degrees of each other.
It was more like a 10 to 12 degree difference.

The Turbo was pushing over a 1000 - 1100 degrees when I barely touched to gas.
(I'm usually at 800-ish)

It was odd and it has never done that before.

I got home, unhooked the trailer and had to drive somewhere about 2 hrs away.
During that drive, everything when back to normal and it ran like a champ.

So my thinking was that the trailer brakes were dragging.
I checked each wheel = they all rolled freely.
So, I thought I'd take my next trip with out trailer brakes and see if that crap happens again.

FT

 

[monkeyswrench]

Well,
I need to trouble shoot a problem.

I was pulling that trailer on Saturday with a 2 seat CamAm on it.
The fwy was level and it was not hot out.

My engine temp and oil temp were ride'n about 20 degrees above norm.
And not within the normal 3 to 6 degrees of each other.
It was more like a 10 to 12 degree difference.

The Turbo was pushing over a 1000 - 1100 degrees when I barely touched to gas.
(I'm usually at 800-ish)

It was odd and it has never done that before.

I got home, unhooked the trailer and had to drive somewhere about 2 hrs away.
During that drive, everything when back to normal and it ran like a champ.

So my thinking was that the trailer brakes were dragging.
I checked each wheel = they all rolled freely.
So, I thought I'd take my next trip with out trailer brakes and see if that crap happens again.

FT

With the truck and year, I'm thinking you have an injector going. That'll cause fueling issues and in turn, temp issues. If the brakes were dragging, they'd be hot as hell, and you probably would have smelled them. Dunno for sure, but keep an eye on temps without the trailer too.

 

[Your ad here]

Well,
I need to trouble shoot a problem.

I was pulling that trailer on Saturday with a 2 seat CamAm on it.
The fwy was level and it was not hot out.

My engine temp and oil temp were ride'n about 20 degrees above norm.
And not within the normal 3 to 6 degrees of each other.
It was more like a 10 to 12 degree difference.

The Turbo was pushing over a 1000 - 1100 degrees when I barely touched to gas.
(I'm usually at 800-ish)

It was odd and it has never done that before.

I got home, unhooked the trailer and had to drive somewhere about 2 hrs away.
During that drive, everything when back to normal and it ran like a champ.

So my thinking was that the trailer brakes were dragging.
I checked each wheel = they all rolled freely.
So, I thought I'd take my next trip with out trailer brakes and see if that crap happens again.

FT

Sounds like a truck related problem. How's the condition of the fan clutch, coolant level, and are the radiator fins clean? Degas bottle and cap in good condition?

 

[DarkHorseRacing]

Does the 7 way trailer connector come apart? (some don't) Remove the blue wire.

Dan'l

That’s the +12V wire, correct?

I blew that fuse on my Yukon once and it acted like there was no trailer brakes. Confirmed it with a test light.

 

[Dcb.blake]

Check that safety cable with the carabiner in the smaller black box. Might have a bad connection there. Spin the wheels on the trailer with it plugged into truck key in on position. That should let you know if they are dragging or not

 

[Justfishing]

Get one of those temperature guns. Shoot the brakes and hubs after running. If dragging it should be pretty hot.

 

[lbhsbz]

Well,
I need to trouble shoot a problem.

I was pulling that trailer on Saturday with a 2 seat CamAm on it.
The fwy was level and it was not hot out.

My engine temp and oil temp were ride'n about 20 degrees above norm.
And not within the normal 3 to 6 degrees of each other.
It was more like a 10 to 12 degree difference.

The Turbo was pushing over a 1000 - 1100 degrees when I barely touched to gas.
(I'm usually at 800-ish)

It was odd and it has never done that before.

I got home, unhooked the trailer and had to drive somewhere about 2 hrs away.
During that drive, everything when back to normal and it ran like a champ.

So my thinking was that the trailer brakes were dragging.
I checked each wheel = they all rolled freely.
So, I thought I'd take my next trip with out trailer brakes and see if that crap happens again.

FT

If the trailer brakes were dragging enough to cause the issues you describe, you wouldn't be able to touch the trailer wheels....no need for a temp gun. If you can hold your hand on the wheel, the brakes aren't dragging.

 

[braindead]

Well,
I need to trouble shoot a problem.

I was pulling that trailer on Saturday with a 2 seat CamAm on it.
The fwy was level and it was not hot out.

My engine temp and oil temp were ride'n about 20 degrees above norm.
And not within the normal 3 to 6 degrees of each other.
It was more like a 10 to 12 degree difference.

The Turbo was pushing over a 1000 - 1100 degrees when I barely touched to gas.
(I'm usually at 800-ish)

It was odd and it has never done that before.

I got home, unhooked the trailer and had to drive somewhere about 2 hrs away.
During that drive, everything when back to normal and it ran like a champ.

So my thinking was that the trailer brakes were dragging.
I checked each wheel = they all rolled freely.
So, I thought I'd take my next trip with out trailer brakes and see if that crap happens again.

FT

How much higher was your boost pressure than normal? I find it hard to believe that a 4000 pound trailer and razor can put that much of a load to overheat your truck without smoking the brakes? And if your trailer brakes were dragging that much, how did you not smell it the moment you got out the truck?

if you want to temporally disconnect, your brakes, go inside the trailer connector there and pull the wire out from the plug, it should be blue

 

[DLC]

@floatn turd
run a 4 way flat connector


mount this to the trailer and plug existing trailer plug into the 7 way and run a 4 way flat to the truck

 

[DLC]

I’m thinking this is the 4 way flat on the truck

 

[floatn turd]

OK,
I read all the posts.
Thank you for all the suggestions of items to check.

● I have driven the truck a few times now without the trailer and everything is good.
All the Temps are as they should be.

● I never smelled any "brake smell".

At this point I will just wait to see if I have that problem again while not towing anything.
And
Next time I use that trailer:
I will not run it with breaks on the way out and see what happens.
Then, return home with the brakes and see what happens.

In any case, it should narrow down the possibilities.

Thank you
FT

 

[MagicMan]

Last suggestion and the most obvious, did you try a different prop?

 

[floatn turd]

Last suggestion and the most obvious, did you try a different prop?

Not yet Sir.......but I'll throw a Merc Max 5 on it tomorrow.
And
Change that trailer oil as well.

 

[RichL]

Not yet Sir.......but I'll throw a Merc Max 5 on it tomorrow.
And
Change that trailer oil as well.

Don't forget the blinker fluid.

 

[Your ad here]

I really think you have a cooling issue system on the truck. It shows itself more when there is a load attached to the truck. I do know the 7.3 fan clutch swap is popular on 6 liters and well it is a 6 liter...
Something that gets missed in diagnosing is over time the serpentine belt will "polish" the smooth pulleys and can "slip" on them when the fan clutch engages or even when the fan is at freewheel.

 

[floatn turd]

I really think you have a cooling issue system on the truck. It shows itself more when there is a load attached to the truck. I do know the 7.3 fan clutch swap is popular on 6 liters and well it is a 6 liter...
Something that gets missed in diagnosing is over time the serpentine belt will "polish" the smooth pulleys and can "slip" on them when the fan clutch engages or even when the fan is at freewheel.

I'll keep an eye on it next time I tow something.
That should answer a lot of questions.

Thanks again.

FT

 

[dread Pirate]

Anytime I tow I check the trailer hubs as soon as I stop. Just put your hand on the caps.