WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Bahner 21 vdrive.

Bugginout

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So the build went to 565. Ordered a new molnar 4.250 crank today. If anyone is ever looking for a crank or rods I can't say enough about Tom Molnar. He was at Oliver rods for years and also started k1. Very knowledgeable and never bashed another manufacturer or tried to sell me anything. This thing should run pretty good. I'm pretty excited to get this boat on the water.
 

Bugginout

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Brought it home. Boats been in storage in different stages for 10 years. I'm pretty stoked I will update as I go.
 

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lenmann

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Brought it home. Boats been in storage in different stages for 10 years. I'm pretty stoked I will update as I go.

Thats a great looking hull! Seems like a good foundation for something pretty unique, I am following along.
 

Bugginout

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Rigging pics
 

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Bugginout

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Rigging pics.
 

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Bugginout

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So the vdrive is a c500 if I am not mistaken. It's been moved twice in it's life (hole's in stringers tell the story) it's currently in the boat 8"2 from the transom. The strut has also been changed and is currently set in the boat 23 inches to center from the transom. The guy who owned the boat before my buddy said it ran 110. I know that everyone has a 100 mph boat, but the guy is no stranger to going fast on the water. If anyone has any rigging experience with this type of hull I would love to hear thoughts. It is a rounded keel hull. I have a power glide and the 72c velvet. The 565 should be right around 800-850 horsepower according to the desktop dyno. It will also have a big shot plate. I am ordering balsa and bilge coat this week.
 

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vdcruiser

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I thought the rudder was backwards also. I have a 21 Howard and I have done a lot of work with the strut. Changed it to 7.5 deg. and moved it forward so the back of the barrel is 24" from the transom. This helped the high speed handling a lot, even over 100 mph. That also puts the V drive further forward than yours . I got most of the info from Bergeron.
 

Bugginout

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I thought the rudder was backwards also. I have a 21 Howard and I have done a lot of work with the strut. Changed it to 7.5 deg. and moved it forward so the back of the barrel is 24" from the transom. This helped the high speed handling a lot, even over 100 mph. That also puts the V drive further forward than yours . I got most of the info from Bergeron.
The vdrive is as far forward as it can go without removing the floor and bulkhead.
 

Bugginout

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800hp seems like allot for the way it's rigged. Sharp looking boat tho.
It used to run a 800 hp pump gas blower motor. Not saying it is correct. I just took measurements and I could move the rudder 10 inches forward and at 9 degrees I am 5/8 maybe 3/4 from the hull. Also with a digital level zeroed on the strut brace it's actually 10.2 degrees on the prop shaft? What realistically needs to change in your opinion as far as rigging at 800hp? The vdrive is well braced and the the strut has double bracing (they are in the garage)
 

Bugginout

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5/8 to 3/4 prop clearance from the bottom of the hull
 

motormonkey

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It used to run a 800 hp pump gas blower motor. Not saying it is correct. I just took measurements and I could move the rudder 10 inches forward and at 9 degrees I am 5/8 maybe 3/4 from the hull. Also with a digital level zeroed on the strut brace it's actually 10.2 degrees on the prop shaft? What realistically needs to change in your opinion as far as rigging at 800hp? The vdrive is well braced and the the strut has double bracing (they are in the garage)
The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.
 

Bugginout

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The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.
I have a dual cable steering system for it. I was told that I was good with a 1 inch prop shaft at that hp level? The coupler... gonna have to check into that. The rust is surface as far as my wire brush can tell. The rudder is pitted. The strut has been welded and has some rust on the weld. Probably realistically going to change the strut and rudder regardless. Going up to a 11/8 shaft though I was hoping to do at a later date.
 

Bugginout

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The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.
Thank you for taking time out to talk to me about the boat it is really appreciated.
 

Bugginout

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I don't want to seem like I'm kicking rocks at you. Haha. It's a cool boat.
I don't feel that way at all. I appreciate any input. I like built not bought and I am pretty handy... drilling for a new prop shaft...sounds daunting. I feel like I could weld a hole saw on a 1 inch shaft and pull it off?
 

motormonkey

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At least a 6 bolt coupler, not a flange style. I have no idea where to mount your strut on that hull. I've only been told what could work on rounded keels and it's some work. Unfortunately that person has passed recently. Search George from finishline Azgeo on here about rounded keel v drives.
 

Bugginout

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At least a 6 bolt coupler, not a flange style. I have no idea where to mount your strut on that hull. I've only been told what could work on rounded keels and it's some work. Unfortunately that person has passed recently. Search George from finishline Azgeo on here about rounded keel v drives.
Yeah him passing is super shitty. I've read everything I can find on this site from him. I was wondering if a ride plate/trim tab in the center between the cav plates would change the round keel dynamics. In theory in my crazy brain it makes sense.
 

motormonkey

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On performanceboats.com, look up the long deck spectra, it has the mods he recomended if you want to see.
 

oldschool

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What prop shaft coupler do you recommend?
You don’t need a 1 1/8 prop shaft, good 1” auquamet 22 shaft should be fine. The C500 uses an output flange, no coupler. The shaft is held in by a couple(you can add more) set screws. This works “ok” when all the parts are new, but over time that output flange gets worn and the prop shaft gets loose. I solved this problem by gun drilling and threading the prop shaft, then bolting the output flange to the prop shaft. This will keep the prop shaft from coming out of the output flange under hard deceleration, this you do not want!
 

Bugginout

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You don’t need a 1 1/8 prop shaft, good 1” auquamet 22 shaft should be fine. The C500 uses an output flange, no coupler. The shaft is held in by a couple(you can add more) set screws. This works “ok” when all the parts are new, but over time that output flange gets worn and the prop shaft gets loose. I solved this problem by gun drilling and threading the prop shaft, then bolting the output flange to the prop shaft.
This is the same thing that I was told about the 1 inch shaft. Gun drilling the shaft looked like a viable option. I did find a nice looking piece made by R&D for 185 with the borg warner flange that looks pretty stout. Thank you for your time I appreciate all the feedback I can get. What do you think about the 9 degree strut?
 

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This is the same thing that I was told about the 1 inch shaft. Gun drilling the shaft looked like a viable option. I did find a nice looking piece made by R&D for 185 with the borg warner flange that looks pretty stout. Thank you for your time I appreciate all the feedback I can get. What do you think about the 9 degree strut?
My Hallett had a 9 degree strut and it ran in the mid 80’s with about 800 hp. 29 gear and 11 1/4 x 15 3 blade steel prop.
 

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Just an update. Motor is going together. Hopefully get the push rods measured and ordered this week. Hopefully have it in the boat this month and start plumbing & wiring. Ordered balsa, mat and resin for the floors. Front seats are built. Need to build back seat and hatch.
 

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Bugginout

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I posted some parts up if anyone is interested. Negotiable price. I will get pictures of the seats I built up and of the floors as I go.
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Bugginout

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Yes the pistons are oily. No those aren’t the cam bolts 😂 waiting to see what @obnoxious001 is doing with the cam and cover in his thread.
 

Bugginout

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The build is 565 bbc. Mahle pistons, compression is 11.5 to 1. Crower rods, scat crank Merlin 4 block. Custom billet solid roller cam, morel .904 lifter’s, Rollmaster billet timing set up. Canfield 350 heads with a bunch of port work. Intake is an edelbrock 2927 ported as well, with a 1150 dominator built by the carb shop.
 

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Bugginout

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Yes the lifter bars say Erson that’s who rebuilt the lifter’s for me. 😂
 

Bugginout

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Question for you guys. Anyone running through transom exhaust dry? Been looking for threads on it. I have Basset water jacketed header’s they are really nice. But I would prefer to run them dry.
 

Bugginout

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New pan from Armando.
 

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oldschool

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Question for you guys. Anyone running through transom exhaust dry? Been looking for threads on it. I have Basset water jacketed header’s they are really nice. But I would prefer to run them dry.
Why would you rather run dry? I would think the heat from dry headers, through the transom, would be an issue. I’d run the Bassett’s, their through the transom’s are trick.
 

Bugginout

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Why would you rather run dry? I would think the heat from dry headers, through the transom, would be an issue. I’d run the Bassett’s, their through the transom’s are trick.
They really nice pieces for sure I would just hate to see any reversion. The water mixes really far down the header’s though. I’m going to try it just to keep it cool at the transom. It’s not a huge cam but it’s pretty healthy with some over lap.
 

Bugginout

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If it’s a problem I know The guys at lightning can make me a set that the water doesn’t enter until right at the transom.
 

guest hs

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I will say this I believe the 20 Bahner is the same boat as the Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20. I have the Eliminator version. I have the 9 degree strut Turbo 400 trans and a single carb. 468 15% overdrive C500 12x15 stainless prop my boat runs 78. The boat is a hand full at that speed and starts to nose over. There’s no way that Bahner ran 100 mph and the guy lived to tell about it.
 

Bugginout

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I will say this I believe the 20 Bahner is the same boat as the Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20. I have the Eliminator version. I have the 9 degree strut Turbo 400 trans and a single carb. 468 15% overdrive C500 12x15 stainless prop my boat runs 78. The boat is a hand full at that speed and starts to nose over. There’s no way that Bahner ran 100 mph and the guy lived to tell about it.
Yeah I don’t doubt that. Everyone has a 100 mph boat right? I do know the guy who ran it though and he is not new to boats or going fast. We shall see how it runs. Maybe it gets loose and I come off the throttle. Maybe it doesn’t. It will be a bad ass hot rod to me regardless. At the end of the day it’s just a cool toy.
 

Bugginout

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Azgeo thought the two boats had different bottoms?
 

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oldschool

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I will say this I believe the 20 Bahner is the same boat as the Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20. I have the Eliminator version. I have the 9 degree strut Turbo 400 trans and a single carb. 468 15% overdrive C500 12x15 stainless prop my boat runs 78. The boat is a hand full at that speed and starts to nose over. There’s no way that Bahner ran 100 mph and the guy lived to tell about it.
Too much transom lift and they start to bow steer, which is NOT what you want. I ended up with a steel 3 blade 11 1/4 x 15 on my Hallett 20’SS, that was with 29’s and 565” twin turbo. Boat was rock solid at mid 80’s. Finding the right prop for your setup is the trick.
 

Bugginout

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Does yours have lifting strakes?
It does have lifting strakes. I will get better pictures of the bottom when I get back to the boat soon. What I do know is the guy who used to own the boat and ran it really hard said do not change the set up whatever you do. Said he had so much time wrapped up testing and tuning the set up. If my boat runs close to what you ran I would be stoked.
 

vdcruiser

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I'm confused, are you changing the strut or not ? If you are I feel like you should use a 7.5 or 8 degree and move it forward so that the end of the barrel is 24" from the transom. Thats what I did on my 21' Howard and it helped the handling a lot even at 100 plus mph. It stopped the transom lift and bow steering. I also talked to AZGEO and he concured.
 

Bugginout

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Almost there. New pushrods will be here tomorrow. Finish up the valve train. Just about ready to make an appointment for dyno.
 

Bugginout

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Nice pump! I have one of those on a spare engine in my garage, along with the matching River Rat timing cover.
Yeah I picked up the kuhl pump and kuhl cover. I bought a Torrington kit for cam end play with it from Good vibrations as well. Turned out really well.
 
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