Bugginout
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- May 6, 2018
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Compromised is the name lmao
Brought it home. Boats been in storage in different stages for 10 years. I'm pretty stoked I will update as I go.
Your rudder is on backwards.
No it's just spun around no steering cable hooked upYour rudder is on backwards.
The vdrive is as far forward as it can go without removing the floor and bulkhead.I thought the rudder was backwards also. I have a 21 Howard and I have done a lot of work with the strut. Changed it to 7.5 deg. and moved it forward so the back of the barrel is 24" from the transom. This helped the high speed handling a lot, even over 100 mph. That also puts the V drive further forward than yours . I got most of the info from Bergeron.
It used to run a 800 hp pump gas blower motor. Not saying it is correct. I just took measurements and I could move the rudder 10 inches forward and at 9 degrees I am 5/8 maybe 3/4 from the hull. Also with a digital level zeroed on the strut brace it's actually 10.2 degrees on the prop shaft? What realistically needs to change in your opinion as far as rigging at 800hp? The vdrive is well braced and the the strut has double bracing (they are in the garage)800hp seems like allot for the way it's rigged. Sharp looking boat tho.
The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.It used to run a 800 hp pump gas blower motor. Not saying it is correct. I just took measurements and I could move the rudder 10 inches forward and at 9 degrees I am 5/8 maybe 3/4 from the hull. Also with a digital level zeroed on the strut brace it's actually 10.2 degrees on the prop shaft? What realistically needs to change in your opinion as far as rigging at 800hp? The vdrive is well braced and the the strut has double bracing (they are in the garage)
I have a dual cable steering system for it. I was told that I was good with a 1 inch prop shaft at that hp level? The coupler... gonna have to check into that. The rust is surface as far as my wire brush can tell. The rudder is pitted. The strut has been welded and has some rust on the weld. Probably realistically going to change the strut and rudder regardless. Going up to a 11/8 shaft though I was hoping to do at a later date.The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.
Thank you for taking time out to talk to me about the boat it is really appreciated.The amount of rust showing on the hardware, the 1 inch prop shaft, the V drive coupler to the propshaft., the single cable steering. Just from the pics I see, could be wrong tho.
I don't want to seem like I'm kicking rocks at you. Haha. It's a cool boat.Thank you for taking time out to talk to me about the boat it is really appreciated.
I don't feel that way at all. I appreciate any input. I like built not bought and I am pretty handy... drilling for a new prop shaft...sounds daunting. I feel like I could weld a hole saw on a 1 inch shaft and pull it off?I don't want to seem like I'm kicking rocks at you. Haha. It's a cool boat.
Yeah him passing is super shitty. I've read everything I can find on this site from him. I was wondering if a ride plate/trim tab in the center between the cav plates would change the round keel dynamics. In theory in my crazy brain it makes sense.At least a 6 bolt coupler, not a flange style. I have no idea where to mount your strut on that hull. I've only been told what could work on rounded keels and it's some work. Unfortunately that person has passed recently. Search George from finishline Azgeo on here about rounded keel v drives.
You don’t need a 1 1/8 prop shaft, good 1” auquamet 22 shaft should be fine. The C500 uses an output flange, no coupler. The shaft is held in by a couple(you can add more) set screws. This works “ok” when all the parts are new, but over time that output flange gets worn and the prop shaft gets loose. I solved this problem by gun drilling and threading the prop shaft, then bolting the output flange to the prop shaft. This will keep the prop shaft from coming out of the output flange under hard deceleration, this you do not want!What prop shaft coupler do you recommend?
This is the same thing that I was told about the 1 inch shaft. Gun drilling the shaft looked like a viable option. I did find a nice looking piece made by R&D for 185 with the borg warner flange that looks pretty stout. Thank you for your time I appreciate all the feedback I can get. What do you think about the 9 degree strut?You don’t need a 1 1/8 prop shaft, good 1” auquamet 22 shaft should be fine. The C500 uses an output flange, no coupler. The shaft is held in by a couple(you can add more) set screws. This works “ok” when all the parts are new, but over time that output flange gets worn and the prop shaft gets loose. I solved this problem by gun drilling and threading the prop shaft, then bolting the output flange to the prop shaft.
My Hallett had a 9 degree strut and it ran in the mid 80’s with about 800 hp. 29 gear and 11 1/4 x 15 3 blade steel prop.This is the same thing that I was told about the 1 inch shaft. Gun drilling the shaft looked like a viable option. I did find a nice looking piece made by R&D for 185 with the borg warner flange that looks pretty stout. Thank you for your time I appreciate all the feedback I can get. What do you think about the 9 degree strut?
That sounds like exactly what I am looking for.My Hallett had a 9 degree strut and it ran in the mid 80’s with about 800 hp. 29 gear and 11 1/4 x 15 3 blade steel prop.
Why would you rather run dry? I would think the heat from dry headers, through the transom, would be an issue. I’d run the Bassett’s, their through the transom’s are trick.Question for you guys. Anyone running through transom exhaust dry? Been looking for threads on it. I have Basset water jacketed header’s they are really nice. But I would prefer to run them dry.
They really nice pieces for sure I would just hate to see any reversion. The water mixes really far down the header’s though. I’m going to try it just to keep it cool at the transom. It’s not a huge cam but it’s pretty healthy with some over lap.Why would you rather run dry? I would think the heat from dry headers, through the transom, would be an issue. I’d run the Bassett’s, their through the transom’s are trick.
Yeah I don’t doubt that. Everyone has a 100 mph boat right? I do know the guy who ran it though and he is not new to boats or going fast. We shall see how it runs. Maybe it gets loose and I come off the throttle. Maybe it doesn’t. It will be a bad ass hot rod to me regardless. At the end of the day it’s just a cool toy.I will say this I believe the 20 Bahner is the same boat as the Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20. I have the Eliminator version. I have the 9 degree strut Turbo 400 trans and a single carb. 468 15% overdrive C500 12x15 stainless prop my boat runs 78. The boat is a hand full at that speed and starts to nose over. There’s no way that Bahner ran 100 mph and the guy lived to tell about it.
Too much transom lift and they start to bow steer, which is NOT what you want. I ended up with a steel 3 blade 11 1/4 x 15 on my Hallett 20’SS, that was with 29’s and 565” twin turbo. Boat was rock solid at mid 80’s. Finding the right prop for your setup is the trick.I will say this I believe the 20 Bahner is the same boat as the Eliminator Sport Cruiser 20. I have the Eliminator version. I have the 9 degree strut Turbo 400 trans and a single carb. 468 15% overdrive C500 12x15 stainless prop my boat runs 78. The boat is a hand full at that speed and starts to nose over. There’s no way that Bahner ran 100 mph and the guy lived to tell about it.
Does yours have lifting strakes?Azgeo thought the two boats had different bottoms?
It does have lifting strakes. I will get better pictures of the bottom when I get back to the boat soon. What I do know is the guy who used to own the boat and ran it really hard said do not change the set up whatever you do. Said he had so much time wrapped up testing and tuning the set up. If my boat runs close to what you ran I would be stoked.Does yours have lifting strakes?
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Almost there. New pushrods will be here tomorrow. Finish up the valve train. Just about ready to make an appointment for dyno.
Yeah I picked up the kuhl pump and kuhl cover. I bought a Torrington kit for cam end play with it from Good vibrations as well. Turned out really well.Nice pump! I have one of those on a spare engine in my garage, along with the matching River Rat timing cover.