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Boat Issue...

CobraDave

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First trip of the season and the steering goes out. 2017 Shockwave 6.2 350 with Bravo 1. I get it off the trailer and steering wheel gets really hard to move. I got it back on the trailer and straight to Barrett. Although they were slammed, they immediately got a tech to help me. Visually everything looked fine. Took the belt off the power steering pump and spun it. It appeared normal.

Disconnected the steering cable from the steering wheel and the binding continued. They guy threw some lube on where it connects to the cable and made an improvement but then resorted back.

But being that it still binded with nothing hooked up makes you think it’s at the steering column/helm assembly. No parts to replace that and the fact Barrett couldn’t fit me in I was on my way. That tech worked on it for like an hour and they refused to take my money! Awesome of them. pS reservoir was full and showed no leaks.

Ok so I got it back to the house and my goal is to remove the steering hub and take it home. I’m having trouble removing the cap with the Shockwave logo. I’m not sure how to take it off. Can someone help? I found the part I believe I have so I’m going to try and replace it. Also, I found a rivet broken near where the steering cable goes to the steering wheel but I’m not sure it would affect it. I need help removing this thing as I am stuck.

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X Hoser

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When mine did that it was the Brazil (sp?) Valve.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Better the helm than the Brazil valve for sure.
 

boatdoc55

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That's a rack steering system and on most the hub is on a tapered shaft with key and be a real PITA to get off. If it wasn't a super duper Havasu boat I'd put a puller of some sort on the hub and then give it a whack, the puller, and see what happens. I know I'm gonna get flamed for that but that's what I'd try when all else doesn't want to work.
Now that might be some super duper steering I've never seen but looks like a good ol' rack to me.
 

boatdoc55

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Does that say "U-flex". Nothing that know is special about them. I've installed a zillion of them but have not in about 7 years. They could have changed something. 🤷‍♂️
 

CobraDave

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Yeah it’s a Uflex part. I’ll try to carefully pry. It’s powder coated which i don’t want to chip. Thanks for the responses!


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steamin rice

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I don't have any additional suggestions for you, but it`s great to see that you had a good experience with Barrett. AJ helped me out at Rainbow Bridge at Lake Powell when I had a trim tab issue, and he also would not take any $$ from me.

I may start taking my boat from Phoenix to Havasu to have Barrett do my service work.

I hope you get your issue sorted out, it sounds like you are pretty close
 

GRADS

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Bare with me here...I had a similar problem on my Shockwave and I remember getting the hub for the steering wheel off was next to impossible. I ended up taking it to my mechanic and he got it off using a puller or just brute strength.
 

boatdoc55

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Yeah it’s a Uflex part. I’ll try to carefully pry. It’s powder coated which i don’t want to chip. Thanks for the responses!


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If it is indeed a tapered, keyway shaft that the hub is stuck on and you're going to pry, it's best to try and find the keyway slot and pry over that.
 

CobraDave

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I’m still scratching my head on the best way to get this cap off.
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steamin rice

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In the photo of the uflex helm you posted, it looks like the end of the shaft is threaded. I have no idea, but perhaps the shockwave center cap is a press fit and there is a nut behind the cap holding the steering hub on?

You may have already done this, but I would call Shockwave and ask them how the assembly goes together
 

Shlbyntro

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I’m still scratching my head on the best way to get this cap off.
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A sharp pointy object poked in at it from the bottom and pry. I use a Crkt.

A universal puller is the best way to pull the hub. That tightness you say you're still feeling in the helm after the cable is removed is likely the planetary gear set inside that control feedback. Ive also seen the ujoints in the tilt mech come loose and bind on themselves in some helms.
 

steamin rice

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Go to the eddie marine website and look at their billet steering columns. I don't know if it is the same one as yours or not, but the photo on eddie marine's website seems to show a set screw for the center cap
 

CobraDave

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A sharp pointy object poked in at it from the bottom and pry. I use a Crkt.

A universal puller is the best way to pull the hub. That tightness you say you're still feeling in the helm after the cable is removed is likely the planetary gear set inside that control feedback. Ive also seen the ujoints in the tilt mech come loose and bind on themselves in some helms.
By Crkt do you mean a knife?


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steamin rice

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No set screw. No place to pry. I feel I’m just gonna buger this whole thing up.


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I'm guessing this is your hub, but it doesn't really help to figure out how to take it apart.
 

79 HUSTLER

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In the photo of the uflex helm you posted, it looks like the end of the shaft is threaded. I have no idea, but perhaps the shockwave center cap is a press fit and there is a nut behind the cap holding the steering hub on?

You may have already done this, but I would call Shockwave and ask them how the assembly goes together
This is exactly what it is, as posted above. All the water and crud sits around the cap and makes the pressed fit even harder to get off. Taken quite a few of them off. Usually never easy unless they are just polished with no extra thickness from powder.
 

CobraDave

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This is exactly what it is, as posted above. All the water and crud sits around the cap and makes the pressed fit even harder to get off. Taken quite a few of them off. Usually never easy unless they are just polished with no extra thickness from powder.
Seems to be so. Rather than continue with a small flat head and hammer, I’m going to wait till the morning and see what Ace Hardware has for prying tools


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LHC Kirby

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When you get it off......... before putting it back on make sure you put something on it..... I suggest white lithium grease... A SLIGHT coating to make removal in the future easier.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I’m still scratching my head on the best way to get this cap off.
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Plastic putty knife and tap it in with a hammer. A little every 90⁰

And like @boatdoc55 said there will be a nut behind it, pull the nut then go get a steering wheel puller. Attach puller using the correct bolts threaded all the way in. Tighten center(puller) bolt with good tention. Smack the end of the center(pulling) bolt with a metal hammer. Should pop right off. You will need an air impact for the center bolt (also to pull the nut behind the cap)! And make sure the 3 (holding) bolts in the puller are fully threaded in or else you pull the threads!
 

nowski

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I might possibly have the same or similar steering system as yours on my Placecraft.

When I removed my steering wheel approx 6 - 7 year ago I don't remember the cap being that tough to remove it should just pop off. If your going to pry it off make sure you do so on the bottom side of logo so if you do mar the surface a bit it won't be noticeable.

To remove the hub you'll more than likely need a puller as noted above, they're a bear to get off. I made my own puller that your more than welcome to borrow if needed, I'm out in Ontario.

Here's some pics to compare to...
 

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HOOTER SLED-

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If you're still trying to get that cap off......soak it with some PB Blaster first to help break it free. That shit works good. Use it at work to free up some pretty gnarly corroded threads. As a matter of fact...it may help with removing the wheel too. But you may need a puller. It also helps tremendously if you could strike it somehow after you've let it soak. Maybe put a wood block over the cap and a rag in between just to give it a pop or two.
 
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Fun Times

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Maybe a suction cup puller from say harbor freight will help with the center cap removal.
 

throttle

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Time to maybe replace the steering cable I think. If you are not prepared to do that, let the shop pull that hub.

I can’t exactly remember the old shop talk about pricing... but if you worked on it first, the joke ended with the repair price being double.




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Rotten deal

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Try and thread something in evenly to hub that you can then pull on with a slide hammer.
 

Dettom

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I think you were the one on the ramp the other day, green and white Shockwave? I was the the guy in the Advantage with the power steering fluid. I noticed the gap between the steering hub and the wheel, but thought you were aware of it and just ran it like that. Hope it works out.
 

CobraDave

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I think you were the one on the ramp the other day, green and white Shockwave? I was the the guy in the Advantage with the power steering fluid. I noticed the gap between the steering hub and the wheel, but thought you were aware of it and just ran it like that. Hope it works out.
Hey I really appreciate the help! I bought a few tools and a puller so we will see what I can get done here. I might have to tow it home to get it sorted out.


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BHC Vic

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When that happened to me it was the fire wall wood on top of the steering cable
 

CobraDave

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Interesting. Speaking with Barrett, smooth jaw pliers is the way to get that off. We shall see. More tools to buy.


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CobraDave

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Well fuck it’s still on there. I bought some soft jaw pliers but they are slipping off. I’ll go smooth jaw like he said and try. I guess I can have a new cap made.

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nowski

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(951) 898-9360 call before 3:30pm today...
 

Ziggy

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Well fuck it’s still on there. I bought some soft jaw pliers but they are slipping off. I’ll go smooth jaw like he said and try. I guess I can have a new cap made.

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I was gonna suggest big channel locks with some rubber to both insulate and add grip.
 

evantwheeler

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@CobraDave If gripping force fails, you can try and drill a small hole in the side of the cap, fill a grease gun with water, and pump the water in through the hole using a needle attachment on the end of the gun. You'll have to keep hard pressure on the needle to keep is sealed against the conference of the hole in order to build some pressure, so maybe one of those pistol grip guns if you're working alone to free up one hand. You'll have to keep the gun upside down to keep the piston flooded in the gun using a fluid. Hydraulic fluid pressure should remove that pretty easily as you have a decent surface area.
 

socal0487

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We just replaced our entire steering system. Cable and all. Our cap just sits on the hub and was easy to remove. I’d assume yours is the same and is just wedged in there. Once you get that cap off, the tough part will be to get the hub off the tapered shaft. ours was wedged in there and took awhile to get it off.
 

warpt71

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Is it just me or is that cable sheath broken? I looks like the outer windings are showing???

 

bldrinker

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Call shockwave. I’m sure it’s not their first rodeo
 

Yoshiro

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I fought my nordic center cap for days as I was also trying not to damage it. Turns out it was just a slip on cap with a little silicone to hold it in place. Plastic pry tools and a lot of patience is what finally got it loose.
 

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CobraDave

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The grease in the cable has turned to tar.
If you want to know a quick fix that costs almost nothing that will last another 10 years hit the like.
I’m all ears.


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Carlson-jet

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6 hose clamps, 2 foot of 1/2 or 5/8th s hose that can withstand some pressure. Disconnect the downside of the cable and clamp the tubing over the cable about 6 inches. put on 3 clamps. Fill the tubing with about 1-2 ounce of "Zoom Spout turbine oil. Make up fittings to an appropriate O.D nipple that fits the tubing to connect to your air-compressor. Use the remaining 3 clamps to secure the tubing to the pipe nipple. Use whatever adapters are needed. turn your Compressor regulator down to about 20 psi. Make sure the tubing is upright so the oil flows into the cable. Charge the system. Work the wheel slowly back and forth. Have rags or whatever to catch the spewing oil at the helm side of the cable. Increase pressure and wheel motion until signs of lube are present. Adjust pressure, wheel movement accordingly. This process takes about 1 hour give or take. It is not a race. Overcoming the bad grease/lube in the cable takes a little time. I have revived many stiff cables with this method. Have been doing this since about 2005. If there is excessive slop in the cable in needs replacing. If not, it just needed lube.
 
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