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Bravo 1 rigging question

brendellajet

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Happy Memorial Day RDP,

Doing a full redo on the bilge install on my Hallett 270. I'm a little conflicted on where to place the sea strainer. My ideal location is about 6 ft away from the drive. After that I was planning to run the water through my oil cooler, then to the raw water pump. Hoping this isn't a problem to plumb this way- Trying to avoid running broken impeller bits through my oil cooler in the event one fails.

Are there any issues having 8-10 feet of hose between the drive and raw water pump?

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Shlbyntro

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Happy Memorial Day RDP,

Doing a full redo on the bilge install on my Hallett 270. I'm a little conflicted on where to place the sea strainer. My ideal location is about 6 ft away from the drive. After that I was planning to run the water through my oil cooler, then to the raw water pump. Hoping this isn't a problem to plumb this way- Trying to avoid running broken impeller bits through my oil cooler in the event one fails.

Are there any issues having 8-10 feet of hose between the drive and raw water pump?

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

There shouldn't be so long as everything stays low and all your bends are long sweeping ones. At that length I would recommend using hose that has wire reinforced walls to prevent hose collapse though.
 

Racey

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I would not recommend "Sucking Through" your cooler, it should be fed after the pump. The pumps do a much better job of pushing fluid than pulling it, you want to keep the suction side a short as is reasonably possible.
 

brendellajet

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I would not recommend "Sucking Through" your cooler, it should be fed after the pump. The pumps do a much better job of pushing fluid than pulling it, you want to keep the suction side a short as is reasonably possible.
I guess I should have asked that question before I started drilling holes and picking locations for mounting...

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Might want to mount the opening above the water line, that way you can clean it without water flowing in, or a valve
 

brendellajet

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Might want to mount the opening above the water line, that way you can clean it without water flowing in, or a valve
Thanks, it's about 5 inches higher than the inlet.

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buck35

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I would not recommend "Sucking Through" your cooler, it should be fed after the pump. The pumps do a much better job of pushing fluid than pulling it, you want to keep the suction side a short as is reasonably possible.


Strangling a pump is never a good idea. Better off to have a yearly impeller program ,and many if not most coolers have removable ends to clean passages.
 

Racey

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I guess I should have asked that question before I started drilling holes and picking locations for mounting...

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If you are running a hull pickup that can actually build it's own pressure it's one thing, but when sucking through a Bravo drive it's another story altogether.

Another thing i like to do is put an extra port on the strainer that you can run a garden hose connection into, works way better when starting the boat on the trailer to pump the strainer full of water and let it leak back out the drive. Put a valve and cap on it to seal when not in use.

I put one up under the gunnel under the hatch on a customer's 270 a few years ago, works bitchin.


Might want to mount the opening above the water line, that way you can clean it without water flowing in, or a valve

Valve, strainer needs to stay below the waterline to guarantee a self prime. You can sometimes get away with it, but you are asking for trouble.

Also i highly recommend against those strainers that have all the specially grooved o-ring allen fastners, you loose one, you are fucked. They also have this really poor fastening method of a bar between every 2 bolts, they are a real fiddle fuck to take apart and put back together. If you can find one with a band clamp top that is the way to go.

You want a strainer that is actually user friendly to clean, otherwise you will just avoid cleaning it because it's such a pain in the ass. Get one that is easy to open and service

Just my 2 cents.
 

ToMorrow44

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I agree you want the oil cooler on the pressure side. Having positive pressure helps to cool, just like a cars cooling system. Oil temps in a boat are pretty hot, without positive pressure, you might get steam pockets in the cooler.

Agree with having a ball valve on the inlet to the strainer in case you need to clean it out in the middle of the lake
 
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