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Broken flexplate coupler small block to volvo penta 280 drive

Mototrig

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This weekend leaving the no wake zone in front of Topock the flexplate coupler exploded in the bell housing. I have a few questions for the brain trust. Is it easier to leave the motor in and pull the drive to replace the coupler? Should I be checking motor to drive alignment in the process? And finally should I go back in with a flexplate coupler or a rubber bushing coupler?
 

Shlbyntro

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If you are talking about what i think your talking about, there isn't a way to replace the coupler without pulling the engine. What year/model Volvo are we talking about?
 

Mototrig

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If you are talking about what i think your talking about, there isn't a way to replace the coupler without pulling the engine. What year/model Volvo are we talking about?

Forgive me for my poor description. I'm very familiar with engines but this is my time dealing with anything engine to drive breaking in a boat. I'm learning the nomenclature as I go.

The boat is an 82 Eliminator Sport Cruiser. The drive looks original, 280 1.61 gear ratio. With a borescope I found shattered springs resting at the bottom of the bell housing. Looks to be a damper coupler? The rest of the pieces made its way to the bilge through the small gap in the lower portion of the bell housing.

image7.jpeg

PXL_20201011_225019431.jpg
 

Shlbyntro

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Yep. Thats an engine coupler for sure. Engine absolutely has to come out for that one. Your 2 options are pulling it with or without the bell housing. I would recommend pulling it with the bell housing so you can inspect the seals and bearings in the bell housing as well.

That generation of Volvo uses a standard inboard engine coupler, same as an inboard ski boat of the Era. I see no issue going back in with what you take out
 

boatdoc55

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I've called that the drive plate for ions. You just need a 3 legged drive plate bolt it on and go. Make sure you fish all the bits and pieces of the old one or you could ruin a starter. To prevent it from coming apart again in the distant future put one of the legs in a vice and silicone up all the springs on the new plate. I guess what I 'm saying is fill all the spring perches with silicone and tie them all together with the silicone also. This will help keep those springs in where they're supposed to be be. If one breaks it can't get out and do other damage.
Make sure you use the same three bolts to fasten the new plate on. Believe it or not they're special bolts if the OEM ones are still there.
Now would be a great time to change out your U-J bellows also. It has to come off to get the flywheel casing out. While you're at it take the water intake S-hose off, that's the one under the bellows and make sure the hose nipple for the S-hose is all there. These have a way of rotting off and then the hose falls off and you don't have any cooling water. S-hoses last for a long long time but the nipples, not so much. All this is going to take 10 minutes to do and save a lot of future headaches. The bottom hose is just exhaust, it doesn't need changing very often at all

I know those things like the back of my hand, give a yell if needed. Retired Volvo Penta guy. BTW, your drive and engine series is called the AQ series, prolly the best drive ever built, that's why EVERYBODY copied them. 😁
 

boatdoc55

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Forgive me for my poor description. I'm very familiar with engines but this is my time dealing with anything engine to drive breaking in a boat. I'm learning the nomenclature as I go.

The boat is an 82 Eliminator Sport Cruiser. The drive looks original, 280 1.61 gear ratio. With a borescope I found shattered springs resting at the bottom of the bell housing. Looks to be a damper coupler? The rest of the pieces made its way to the bilge through the small gap in the lower portion of the bell housing.

View attachment 931307
View attachment 931308
IMG_2655.JPG IMG_2657.JPG IMG_2658.JPG
 

Mototrig

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@boatdoc55 here is the gap I THINK you were talking about in the DM. With a feeler gauge I'm getting 0.047"
PXL_20201027_001451032.jpg
 
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boatdoc55

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Take that flywheel case off and silicone those springs in!!!!!!!! You'll thank me when one jumps out and gets in your new starter. Love the Lady Lee coffee can. When I was a kid I was a night crew guy stocking shelves at Lucky grocery stores, Lady Lee was the store brand. I'm surprised they didn't check that clearance at the shop you had do the U/J's. That was SOP at my shop.
 

Mototrig

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Take that flywheel case off and silicone those springs in!!!!!!!! You'll thank me when one jumps out and gets in your new starter. Love the Lady Lee coffee can. When I was a kid I was a night crew guy stocking shelves at Lucky grocery stores, Lady Lee was the store brand. I'm surprised they didn't check that clearance at the shop you had do the U/J's. That was SOP at my shop.
Dammit......the motor is in!!!! Can't go back now and silicone the springs.

Yeah I stole that Lady Lee coffee can from my dad before he passed 10 years ago 😁😁. I have all kinds of little neet old school garage stuff from Pop. Lady Lee was EVERYWHERE in our house from Lucky's.
 

Shlbyntro

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Dammit......the motor is in!!!! Can't go back now and silicone the springs.

Yeah I stole that Lady Lee coffee can from my dad before he passed 10 years ago 😁😁. I have all kinds of little neet old school garage stuff from Pop. Lady Lee was EVERYWHERE in our house from Lucky's.

I wouldnt worry about it too much. Although its definitely an improvement to do so, the last one made it 25+ years. The new should should get you well down the road without issue for years to come
 
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