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Cable Deck Fencing Ft. Mohave

PaPaG

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Any RDer do Cable Fencing? I would like to give someone on here first shot at the business. I have roughly 135 feet that I want done.
 

wzuber

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can you provide a bit more information in regard to what you are looking for specifically? Are you looking to do all stainless steel system i.e frame and cables, painted steel frame system with s. steel cable or wood frame w/ s.s. cable?
 

PaPaG

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can you provide a bit more information in regard to what you are looking for specifically? Are you looking to do all stainless steel system i.e frame and cables, painted steel frame system with s. steel cable or wood frame w/ s.s. cable?
We want 42" power coated steel poles, 13 holes, roughly 135 feet with a top rail, ss cable, poles top bolted to concrete slab, one 3 foot gate for a dock gangway.
 

wzuber

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We want 42" power coated steel poles, 13 holes, roughly 135 feet with a top rail, ss cable, poles top bolted to concrete slab, one 3 foot gate for a dock gangway.
Sounds like a good plan. So your looking for a clean, modern guard rail system then?
Would the (13posts?) Be welded to the top rail or bolted? Would there be a tube bottom rail as well or would the lowest cable suffice for that. That detail effetcs a welded post/rail assembly more so than the bolted P/R assembly. What spacing on the cables? Is the concrete surface level in the length of the area being installed or is there a slope in any direction?
One thing to bear in mind with this type system. All the cable holes thru the tube will collect rain water etc. If rusting of the posts is a concern for you that will become a problem over a period of time, much like a tube boat trailer. There are several options to address that though.
Regarding the frame system, are you wanting a smaller thinner material so as to not take up visible space? Or are you wanting something that has a little more size/mass to provide a more solid/stout visual appearance or appeal?
 

PaPaG

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Sounds like a good plan. So your looking for a clean, modern guard rail system then?
Would the (13posts?) Be welded to the top rail or bolted? Would there be a tube bottom rail as well or would the lowest cable suffice for that. That detail effetcs a welded post/rail assembly more so than the bolted P/R assembly. What spacing on the cables? Is the concrete surface level in the length of the area being installed or is there a slope in any direction?
One thing to bear in mind with this type system. All the cable holes thru the tube will collect rain water etc. If rusting of the posts is a concern for you that will become a problem over a period of time, much like a tube boat trailer. There are several options to address that though.
Regarding the frame system, are you wanting a smaller thinner material so as to not take up visible space? Or are you wanting something that has a little more size/mass to provide a more solid/stout visual appearance or appeal?
13 holes for the cables (sorry should have made that more clear), I am not sure on the number of posts I think they require 4 feet maybe 5 feet apart but not sure. Lowest cable would suffice, (CORRECTION in my earlier post: 9 CABLES not 13) cables spread out in code would be 4" max so most go a little less space maybe 3.75" (not positive). Level concrete no slope in any direction. As far as holes I thought they make a plug you can put in each hole that snugly fits around the cable so as not to allow water, if not then maybe we have to go another route on posts...most cable fence guys said steel powder coated is what they use either that, wood or aluminum, we get very little rain out here but when it does it comes down hard for usually a short period of time. Yes on the smaller space but I would like a solid stance if I had to go 4" post I would do that if the 2x2's are not stable enough (most say the 2x2's are but I do not know for sure.
 
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Looking Glass

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13 holes for the cables (sorry should have made that more clear), I am not sure on the number of posts I think they require 4 feet maybe 5 feet apart but not sure. Lowest cable would suffice, 13 cables spread out in code would be 4" max so most go a little less space maybe 3.75" (not positive). Level concrete no slope in any direction. As far as holes I thought they make a plug you can put in each hole that snugly fits around the cable so as not to allow water, if not then maybe we have to go another route on posts...most cable fence guys said steel powder coated is what they use either that, wood or aluminum, we get very little rain out here but when it does it comes down hard for usually a short period of time. Yes on the smaller space but I would like a solid stance if I had to go 4" post I would do that if the 2x2's are not stable enough (most say the 2x2's are but I do not know for sure.

There is a New Fencing Company on Handcock Drive, in BHC and always advertising in all three States. They might be an Idea?
 

DC-88

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Frank is great to work with. FYI cable rail is 3" on center to allow for deflection of the cables for 4" max sphere. Lucas at Fusion could make you a nice set up also --
 

PaPaG

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Frank is great to work with. FYI cable rail is 3" on center to allow for deflection of the cables for 4" max sphere. Lucas at Fusion could make you a nice set up also --
OK Got it, correction to my post saying I needed 13 cables, I need 9 or 10....Frank does great work from what I have seen and heard, also Lucas did my Dock a few weeks back, he does amazing work for sure. I spoke to him last week about it so if he has time he will get me a bid as well.
 

Wheeler

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I would be concerned with the durability of powder coat especially if it were done in Havasu. I'd be sure to do research on the company and find some old jobs to see how it's holding up.

If it were my house I'd go full stainless and not worry about the powder coat failing.

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wzuber

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Frank is great to work with. FYI cable rail is 3" on center to allow for deflection of the cables for 4" max sphere. Lucas at Fusion could make you a nice set up also --
13 cables leaves 14 spaces @ 2.93" on a 41" post (assumes a 1" x 4"? rect. tube top rail), depending on cable dia., post spacing and cable tension he should be way good to meet code, assuming it's being inspected of course.
 
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wzuber

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I would be concerned with the durability of powder coat especially if it were done in Havasu. I'd be sure to do research on the company and find some old jobs to see how it's holding up.

If it were my house I'd go full stainless and not worry about the powder coat failing.

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damn dude, that looks nice. Blyth pad? The swedged cable ends are really nice, clean. All that brushed S.S. is spendy but oh so clean looking. You fab that up?
you need to get some bikini clad girls to pull your weeds. Yards gettin a little outa control. haha
 

Wheeler

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damn dude, that looks nice. Blyth pad? The swedged cable ends are really nice, clean. All that brushed S.S. is spendy but oh so clean looking. You fab that up?
you need to get some bikini clad girls to pull your weeds. Yards gettin a little outa control. haha
It's my brothers house and it's still a construction site. Each of the large retaining wall blocks weigh 2,700#. My brothers kids need to take care of the weeds but they are soccer kids.

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The stainless still needs to be ground and brushed in a few spots and the long run still needs to be straightened. A friend of my brothers did the stainless work.

I told the gardener to wait for me to be there so I can help with the heaving lifting. ;)

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wzuber

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yes, 2"x2' posts will be good for that height @ approx. 8' (max.) centers provided their at least 1/8" wall thickness and completely welded to min. 1/4" thick, 4"x4", 4 hole steel plate with min. 3/8" x 2" sleeve or wedge anchors in all corners/ all posts. Depending on the individual lengths of the runs on either side of the gate the post spacing can be close to the same and still have a clean, balanced look to it. Example, not a significant visual difference between 8' centers on one side and 7' on the other. The more difference between the post centers the more obvious it becomes. Balance and symmetry can be planned into the work pretty easily by locating the specific gate position and then measuring out from there to establish what kind of visual post location you want. You can use rocks, beer cans etc. to help get a visual feel for how the spacing layout will look.
Question- do you want to see the anchor bolts and plates or do you want to have them clean and concealed with a cover shoe?
Will the posts be welded to the top rail or bolted to the underside? Welded will add to the lateral load capacity of the railing system. Uniform building code requires a minimum 200#/ sq. ft. to prevent falling over if a bunch peeps are all leaning against it. Your city/county jurisdiction may differ.
Powder coating will be fine for your application so long as it's done correctly. It will fade and oxidize just as other paints do but should last longer than a liquid, oil base or acrylic paint finish is employed. If a lighter color and polyester or urethane (minimum standard for your app.) is used for a top coat over a zinc rich epoxy primer on "white" sand blasted clean steel will last a very long time and accept repaint in the future same as any other painted surface. Darker colors will fade faster of course. You can also finish with clear over that but it too will chalk (haze/dull out) out in time. Using a low sheen finish will help to make the finish look better over a longer period of time due to the lack of gloss degradation as it fades. Some areas will fade faster (full sun exposure) than others and the difference will become noticeable more quickly.
 

fmo24

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For drainage of post could they be mounted with a spacer under base. Thinking thick washer between base and final grade surfaces. This would allow water to run out of post and not collect at base?
 

wzuber

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It's my brothers house and it's still a construction site. Each of the large retaining wall blocks weigh 2,700#. My brothers kids need to take care of the weeds but they are soccer kids.

The stainless still needs to be ground and brushed in a few spots and the long run still needs to be straightened. A friend of my brothers did the stainless work.

I told the gardener to wait for me to be there so I can help with the heaving lifting. ;)

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nice.....good choice in gardeners. Those look like a couple #s each at least to me. :p
A die grinder with a flapper type wheel/role will clean up the brush marks. If there's a lot of it then a "belt sander" type tool made specifically for that type of application will make the work faster and cleaner.
 

wzuber

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For drainage of post could they be mounted with a spacer under base. Thinking thick washer between base and final grade surfaces. This would allow water to run out of post and not collect at base?
That's a good idea. You could create something like that so long as it doesn't diminish the post load stability/strength. The other issue to contend with is the rusty water running out will stain the concrete everywhere is goes.
 
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wzuber

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for stainless steel cable and components and some design ideas you can check out www.qmh-inc.com
Their located in Chino ca. They have an extensive supply of materials, fittings etc.
They supply many Architectural/residential and commercial job sites with the cable system products as well as marine rigging Co's. If you provide them the dimensions and cable specs. etc. they will make the cables to your specs as well as supply all the S.S. parts, fittings etc. to complete your cable project if you want to go that route. Just have the frame system built/installed, then measure for your cable lengths, order and install yourself when they arrive. A couple beers and a helper and you can knock it out in a day easily and save yourself some $$ too.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Does he do work out here in Ft. Mohave?
Yes he does, he specializes in Artistic wrought iron, however he does block chainlink and any other fencing. His shop is in Fort Mohave, but he does work throughout all of Mohave County.
Do you mean Frank at Malibu Iron and Welding? if so he has already given me a bid. Nice guy, seems honest but I want a few bids.
Yes sir, he’s definitely both those. Won’t be necessarily the cheapest but he doesn’t even know how to bullshit lol. And his work is what he says.
 

02HoWaRd26

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I would be concerned with the durability of powder coat especially if it were done in Havasu. I'd be sure to do research on the company and find some old jobs to see how it's holding up.

If it were my house I'd go full stainless and not worry about the powder coat failing.

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Who did yours? Came out gorgeous.
 

Wheeler

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nice.....good choice in gardeners. Those look like a couple #s each at least to me. :p
A die grinder with a flapper type wheel/role will clean up the brush marks. If there's a lot of it then a "belt sander" type tool made specifically for that type of application will make the work faster and cleaner.
That's a job for another.



Who did yours? Came out gorgeous.
A friend of my brother did the work. He's out of Anaheim.
 

PaPaG

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for stainless steel cable and components and some design ideas you can check out www.qmh-inc.com
Their located in Chino ca. They have an extensive supply of materials, fittings etc.
They supply many Architectural/residential and commercial job sites with the cable system products as well as marine rigging Co's. If you provide them the dimensions and cable specs. etc. they will make the cables to your specs as well as supply all the S.S. parts, fittings etc. to complete your cable project if you want to go that route. Just have the frame system built/installed, then measure for your cable lengths, order and install yourself when they arrive. A couple beers and a helper and you can knock it out in a day easily and save yourself some $$ too.
Wzuber, thanks for all the great questions, info and ideas...you have been a great help.
 

Waterjunky

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Interesting ideas here. I have been researching ideas on fencing also. One of the biggest concerns is how to prevent rust. What coating to use? I have something like a thousand linear feet, some solid privacy and some open. The stainless cable is one of the leaders for the open areas.
I wonder how polyurethane elastomer like used on bed liners would perform. I know texture is easily controllable so you can get a reasonable finish.
 

wzuber

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I would think the product would work quite well providing you have a very clean surface to adhere to and have a sufficient coating thickness to prevent moisture penetration to the steel substrate. (10-15 mils.) Paint mill thickness is your friend here and these products are designed for that. I think an additional protection layer of epoxy primer would insure the longevity of a clean, rust free substrate. I don't know that you will get it to lay down smooth though. May be better to go for a textured look to better work with the material characteristics. JMO
 

Waterjunky

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I would think the product would work quite well providing you have a very clean surface to adhere to and have a sufficient coating thickness to prevent moisture penetration to the steel substrate. (10-15 mils.) Paint mill thickness is your friend here and these products are designed for that. I think an additional protection layer of epoxy primer would insure the longevity of a clean, rust free substrate. I don't know that you will get it to lay down smooth though. May be better to go for a textured look to better work with the material characteristics. JMO
The fact that it doesn't crack or chip is attractive. fairly permanent.
 

wzuber

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The fact that it doesn't crack or chip is attractive. fairly permanent.
agreed, high degree of flexability to it with relatively high impact resistance makes for a worthy product for the application. Some color surface quality limitations are about the only major downsides IMO. Cost can be a bit high but If purchased in higher volume's as you are going to need it would prolly be justifiable. (5 gal or 55 gal. container) Touching up at the field weld areas would be pretty seamless too I would think.

www.upol.com
Raptor bed coatings by U-POL come in a variety of stock color options (clear too) and volume options. Pretty nice looking product.
 
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