PaPaG
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 21, 2007
- Messages
- 4,353
- Reaction score
- 4,736
Any RDer do Cable Fencing? I would like to give someone on here first shot at the business. I have roughly 135 feet that I want done.
We want 42" power coated steel poles, 13 holes, roughly 135 feet with a top rail, ss cable, poles top bolted to concrete slab, one 3 foot gate for a dock gangway.can you provide a bit more information in regard to what you are looking for specifically? Are you looking to do all stainless steel system i.e frame and cables, painted steel frame system with s. steel cable or wood frame w/ s.s. cable?
Does he do work out here in Ft. Mohave?Call Frank at Malibu Fencing.
+1 (928) 219-7063
Is there some type of hidden link in the number rhat addresses his scope of work?Look at the Phone Number
Is there some type of hidden link in the number rhat addresses his scope of work?
Sounds like a good plan. So your looking for a clean, modern guard rail system then?We want 42" power coated steel poles, 13 holes, roughly 135 feet with a top rail, ss cable, poles top bolted to concrete slab, one 3 foot gate for a dock gangway.
Do you mean Frank at Malibu Iron and Welding? if so he has already given me a bid. Nice guy, seems honest but I want a few bids.Does he do work out here in Ft. Mohave?
13 holes for the cables (sorry should have made that more clear), I am not sure on the number of posts I think they require 4 feet maybe 5 feet apart but not sure. Lowest cable would suffice, (CORRECTION in my earlier post: 9 CABLES not 13) cables spread out in code would be 4" max so most go a little less space maybe 3.75" (not positive). Level concrete no slope in any direction. As far as holes I thought they make a plug you can put in each hole that snugly fits around the cable so as not to allow water, if not then maybe we have to go another route on posts...most cable fence guys said steel powder coated is what they use either that, wood or aluminum, we get very little rain out here but when it does it comes down hard for usually a short period of time. Yes on the smaller space but I would like a solid stance if I had to go 4" post I would do that if the 2x2's are not stable enough (most say the 2x2's are but I do not know for sure.Sounds like a good plan. So your looking for a clean, modern guard rail system then?
Would the (13posts?) Be welded to the top rail or bolted? Would there be a tube bottom rail as well or would the lowest cable suffice for that. That detail effetcs a welded post/rail assembly more so than the bolted P/R assembly. What spacing on the cables? Is the concrete surface level in the length of the area being installed or is there a slope in any direction?
One thing to bear in mind with this type system. All the cable holes thru the tube will collect rain water etc. If rusting of the posts is a concern for you that will become a problem over a period of time, much like a tube boat trailer. There are several options to address that though.
Regarding the frame system, are you wanting a smaller thinner material so as to not take up visible space? Or are you wanting something that has a little more size/mass to provide a more solid/stout visual appearance or appeal?
13 holes for the cables (sorry should have made that more clear), I am not sure on the number of posts I think they require 4 feet maybe 5 feet apart but not sure. Lowest cable would suffice, 13 cables spread out in code would be 4" max so most go a little less space maybe 3.75" (not positive). Level concrete no slope in any direction. As far as holes I thought they make a plug you can put in each hole that snugly fits around the cable so as not to allow water, if not then maybe we have to go another route on posts...most cable fence guys said steel powder coated is what they use either that, wood or aluminum, we get very little rain out here but when it does it comes down hard for usually a short period of time. Yes on the smaller space but I would like a solid stance if I had to go 4" post I would do that if the 2x2's are not stable enough (most say the 2x2's are but I do not know for sure.
OK Got it, correction to my post saying I needed 13 cables, I need 9 or 10....Frank does great work from what I have seen and heard, also Lucas did my Dock a few weeks back, he does amazing work for sure. I spoke to him last week about it so if he has time he will get me a bid as well.Frank is great to work with. FYI cable rail is 3" on center to allow for deflection of the cables for 4" max sphere. Lucas at Fusion could make you a nice set up also --
13 cables leaves 14 spaces @ 2.93" on a 41" post (assumes a 1" x 4"? rect. tube top rail), depending on cable dia., post spacing and cable tension he should be way good to meet code, assuming it's being inspected of course.Frank is great to work with. FYI cable rail is 3" on center to allow for deflection of the cables for 4" max sphere. Lucas at Fusion could make you a nice set up also --
damn dude, that looks nice. Blyth pad? The swedged cable ends are really nice, clean. All that brushed S.S. is spendy but oh so clean looking. You fab that up?I would be concerned with the durability of powder coat especially if it were done in Havasu. I'd be sure to do research on the company and find some old jobs to see how it's holding up.
If it were my house I'd go full stainless and not worry about the powder coat failing.
View attachment 942976 View attachment 942978 View attachment 942979 View attachment 942980 View attachment 942981 View attachment 942982 View attachment 942983
damn dude, that looks nice. Blyth pad? The swedged cable ends are really nice, clean. All that brushed S.S. is spendy but oh so clean looking. You fab that up?
you need to get some bikini clad girls to pull your weeds. Yards gettin a little outa control. haha
nice.....good choice in gardeners. Those look like a couple #s each at least to me.It's my brothers house and it's still a construction site. Each of the large retaining wall blocks weigh 2,700#. My brothers kids need to take care of the weeds but they are soccer kids.
The stainless still needs to be ground and brushed in a few spots and the long run still needs to be straightened. A friend of my brothers did the stainless work.
I told the gardener to wait for me to be there so I can help with the heaving lifting.
View attachment 942987
That's a good idea. You could create something like that so long as it doesn't diminish the post load stability/strength. The other issue to contend with is the rusty water running out will stain the concrete everywhere is goes.For drainage of post could they be mounted with a spacer under base. Thinking thick washer between base and final grade surfaces. This would allow water to run out of post and not collect at base?
Yes he does, he specializes in Artistic wrought iron, however he does block chainlink and any other fencing. His shop is in Fort Mohave, but he does work throughout all of Mohave County.Does he do work out here in Ft. Mohave?
Yes sir, he’s definitely both those. Won’t be necessarily the cheapest but he doesn’t even know how to bullshit lol. And his work is what he says.Do you mean Frank at Malibu Iron and Welding? if so he has already given me a bid. Nice guy, seems honest but I want a few bids.
Who did yours? Came out gorgeous.I would be concerned with the durability of powder coat especially if it were done in Havasu. I'd be sure to do research on the company and find some old jobs to see how it's holding up.
If it were my house I'd go full stainless and not worry about the powder coat failing.
View attachment 942976 View attachment 942978 View attachment 942979 View attachment 942980 View attachment 942981 View attachment 942982 View attachment 942983
nice.....good choice in gardeners. Those look like a couple #s each at least to me.
A die grinder with a flapper type wheel/role will clean up the brush marks. If there's a lot of it then a "belt sander" type tool made specifically for that type of application will make the work faster and cleaner.
Who did yours? Came out gorgeous.
Nope on Calzone, they did all our other fencing but they do not do cable.Maybe CalZon?
Wzuber, thanks for all the great questions, info and ideas...you have been a great help.for stainless steel cable and components and some design ideas you can check out www.qmh-inc.com
Their located in Chino ca. They have an extensive supply of materials, fittings etc.
They supply many Architectural/residential and commercial job sites with the cable system products as well as marine rigging Co's. If you provide them the dimensions and cable specs. etc. they will make the cables to your specs as well as supply all the S.S. parts, fittings etc. to complete your cable project if you want to go that route. Just have the frame system built/installed, then measure for your cable lengths, order and install yourself when they arrive. A couple beers and a helper and you can knock it out in a day easily and save yourself some $$ too.
The fact that it doesn't crack or chip is attractive. fairly permanent.I would think the product would work quite well providing you have a very clean surface to adhere to and have a sufficient coating thickness to prevent moisture penetration to the steel substrate. (10-15 mils.) Paint mill thickness is your friend here and these products are designed for that. I think an additional protection layer of epoxy primer would insure the longevity of a clean, rust free substrate. I don't know that you will get it to lay down smooth though. May be better to go for a textured look to better work with the material characteristics. JMO
agreed, high degree of flexability to it with relatively high impact resistance makes for a worthy product for the application. Some color surface quality limitations are about the only major downsides IMO. Cost can be a bit high but If purchased in higher volume's as you are going to need it would prolly be justifiable. (5 gal or 55 gal. container) Touching up at the field weld areas would be pretty seamless too I would think.The fact that it doesn't crack or chip is attractive. fairly permanent.