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Can am X3 35” tire Pros /Cons: for a friend

LowRiver2

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My set up is great for me: 15” fuels on 33” Kanati terra master DOT’s

I have modded clutch, Madigan A arms, beefed up front end

Buddy has same 4 seat xrs stock, no mods and is he’ll bent on 15” methods on 35” Tensors

Aside from brand choice, I say cons are :
Wear out ball joints faster

Have to mod clutch weights for keeping performance

Bump steer quite possible with stock arms in hard pack

What am I missing and what are the benefits of a 35” set up other than clearance/ looks ? Lol
 

Riverfamlee

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Subscribed - after seeing that other build on 35’s kinda got me interested
 

Happy Smitty

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I'm on my 2nd set of tensor 35 and cycle all my suspension bushings, bearings and joints out every 1500 miles. So far only trail fail has been a busted lower passenger ball joint. I'll probably go with 33s on the next set. Heard the steering is better on 33s. Canam xrs.
 

DLC

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I have 35 tensor tires on my 2018 rs max, there are a few upgrades needed to be completed to the car in order to maintain a solid car. As of right now i have app 1900 miles on it.
i do regular maintenance and swap out a new belt when serviced in the off season, I have only swapped out 1 belt and have not broken any. I did have a Few loose hemi joint on my ZRP radius rods and that gave me some odd tire wear on the rear brand new tensors. I replaced all Radius rod helms and problems went away...

is a great source of info

i just bought a set of systems 3 tires in 35 they are lighter that the tensors and are a harder compound, Also more friendly on the wallet....hope they last a while longer....Wheel size and offsets are big issues as well as wheel and tire weights play a roll also
driving habits are a big issue and paying attention to belt temp is another big deal, roll On the gas rather than stomping on the go peddle helps...

see spec sheet below
468E7018-CDC5-48D5-8E9C-EA0CDC48D7D4.jpeg

system 3 35 is 3.2lbs heavier that the 33 and you gain an inch more clearance
tensor DS is 45 lbs
3DE4F2FE-BD13-4E7A-85E4-7BC3E9A071F0.jpeg
 

DLC

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After reviewing tires....

there is a big list of must do’s to get the car reliable
lower a arms
big Keller ball joints
rear radius rods
radius rod plate
tire rods to eliminate bump steer
sway bar connectors
and the shocks need to be resprung

I could go on but @DWC might see this....
missed ya on the poker run

lol
 
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DWC

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After reviewing tires....

there is a big list of must do’s to get the car reliable
lower a arms
big Keller ball joints
rear radius rods
radius rod plate
tire rods to eliminate bump steer
sway bar connectors
and the shocks need to be resprung

I could go on but @DWC might see this....
missed ya on the poker run

lol
The poker run looked like a blast. Wish we were in town. We should be out next weekend for some riding
 
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LowRiver2

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Thanks for the info guys.
My buddy basically put rear assault radius rods on , adjusted his springs and started pricing 35” wheel combos, lol.

I told him there were several upgrades needed to keep it reliable (because I’ll be the one dealing with his break down ha ha).
He keeps asking me about bump steer. My car has all the upgrades @DLC mentioned so maybe I’ll just sell him my 33”s and get a set. I’ve never had bump steer on mine and figured the Madigan A arms had to help.

Very informative , thank you all.


Are you running a 5/2 or 4/3 offset on the wheels?
I hear most are going to a 5/2.

Rolling on the gas: I figured treat the trans like an I/O as to not stabbing it is the way to longevity.
Glad it is working .
 

DLC

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Shock therapy has some good vids on bump steer.

new tie rods help to eliminate it.

one other thing is to get the bulk head and shock towel support to stiffen up the Frt end
 

DLC

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My wheels are DWC sector zero 5/2
 

LargeOrangeFont

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As DLC said, the most critical thing of all is getting a 5/2 or 6/1 offset wheel. If you get the wrong offset you’ll have all kinds of problems even with the correct upgrades.
 

LowRiver2

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As DLC said, the most critical thing of all is getting a 5/2 or 6/1 offset wheel. If you get the wrong offset you’ll have all kinds of problems even with the correct upgrades.
Yeah everyone is going 5/2 now
I’m 4/3 with 33’s which is fine.
My buddy is stuck on 35” tensors on method 405’s.
He’s doing HCR arms so looking better lol.
 

DLC

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Tensors DS is a soft compound tire and wear out fast I smoked a set in about 12-1400 miles they are in the $350 range so it adds up fast.

The systems 3 tire is about $220-240 range. I saw one guy had them from $200 on line.
 

LowRiver2

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6EE53E79-C158-4312-B0DD-1E132EBB841C.jpeg
B6170287-08B6-426B-808E-35927C1A0EBF.jpeg
18A4D1A6-12A4-4950-BC0F-16A866144109.jpeg

Well he did it: Method 405’s, 5/2 offset , 35” Tensors. Sits higher than mine but I’m curious how his stock A arms and ball joints will do. I told him thumbs outside the wheel lol!
 

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View attachment 932363 View attachment 932364 View attachment 932365
Well he did it: Method 405’s, 5/2 offset , 35” Tensors. Sits higher than mine but I’m curious how his stock A arms and ball joints will do. I told him thumbs outside the wheel lol!
Looks good, although it looks like he has more spring preload than you do in the rear which accounts for some of the height difference. He should lower the rear of the car just a bit.

Saw an older guy with his wife on the poker run last week with the same tire on Method 401-Rs bend a stock lower arm on his Can Am. He had to limp it back for 20 miles. It finally broke as he pulled into the staging area a the finish line.
 

LowRiver2

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My buddy argued not doing shock therapy and adjusted the springs . I can only advise him , lol
He’s doing the calico to state line this weekend . Should be a good test one way or another lol.
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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My buddy argued not doing shock therapy and adjusted the springs . I can only advise him , lol
He’s doing the calico to state line this weekend . Should be a good test one way or another lol.
Well he has a bad ass set of lights. That cannot be debated :)
 

DLC

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nice cars!

does he have the bulk head gusset and shock tower support?

if he doesnt go wild (Drive smart ) he should do well, run about 14 psi in the tires, have him run in 4wd - tracks better in the corners and reduces stress on the drive train on long rides I run in eco mode and bring 2 gallons of fuel for just in case
 

LowRiver2

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nice cars!

does he have the bulk head gusset and shock tower support?

if he doesnt go wild (Drive smart ) he should do well, run about 14 psi in the tires, have him run in 4wd - tracks better in the corners and reduces stress on the drive train on long rides I run in eco mode and bring 2 gallons of fuel for just in case
He has a billet bull head and swapped the shock resi’s to look like mine.
I’ll pass on the driving info. Thank you.
He has my 1 gal. Roto pax can. I think they have fuel support midway. Just his kid and him so car will be relatively light.

He couldn’t believe I paid $37k for my car all setup when his was stock. He’s easily over $40k now and realizes the deal I got ha ha. He still argues stock cage over my Madigan cage....
I just smile. I don’t carry a revolver at work and I don’t run stock cages, my decision.
He calls my car a rzr because I have alum. Doors. I told him I don’t like plastic tool cases or plastic doors . Lol. We bag on each other all day long.
 
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DLC

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He couldn’t believe I paid $37k for my car all setup when his was stock. He’s easily over $40k now and realizes the deal I got ha ha. He still argues stock cage over my Madigan cage....
I just smile. I don’t carry a revolver at work and I don’t run stock cages, my decision.
He calls my car a rzr because I have alum. Doors. I told him I don’t like plastic tool cases or plastic doors . Lol. We bag on each other all day long.
[/QUOTE]

i have the stock plastic doors but like the alum but the alum sit taller and hard to look out the window when cresting a hill.... so I keep the plastic
 

DLC

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click on the link - tells you what tools you need and what each tools goes to

I stopped by Lowe’s and bought a bunch of new to keep with the car
 

DLC

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If your buddy doesn’t want new lowers arms have him do the taco kit and just get a few spare ball joints for just in case cheap and easy


 

DLC

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He might even find some take off tie rods for spares.
 

DLC

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This is a buddies car he bent the lower a arm and we tried to fix it by adding a inside sleeve, it didn’t last
4D5A2F0E-FBAB-4495-B06B-8EA648A80A8C.png
9857D889-ED96-48E3-9EDB-6586AA2CD3D4.png
 

LowRiver2

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If your buddy doesn’t want new lowers arms have him do the taco kit and just get a few spare ball joints for just in case cheap and easy


Great list.
I’m overboard on tools but didn’t carry a rivet gun or 30mm socket
Will do now.
What jacks are you using?
I have a scissor jack on a Pro Armor plate: heavy but can get Under just about anything
I’d need to spec an upper A arm bolt for a Jack Daddy as they don’t have long enough bolts for Madigan boxed arms.
That Eagle One lift is nice .
 

DLC

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I have a Cheap bottle jack and I made ( welded up ) an extension to slide over the top to reach the a arm.
 

DLC

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I really like the AGM jack but $1100 is out of my price point, the BRP Jack is also nice also but $500 is a lot of cash For a Jack. So I stick to my little bottle jack....
 

DLC

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I don’t think you need a rivet gun maybe a couple self tapper screws for a trail fix. I keep an m12 - 1/4 and m18 - 1/2 Impact with charger and extra batts in case of a yard sale....

lol
 

LowRiver2

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I really like the AGM jack but $1100 is out of my price point, the BRP Jack is also nice also but $500 is a lot of cash For a Jack. So I stick to my little bottle jack....
Yeah my jack is ugly strapped on top of my spare but any vehicle can be lifted with my set up.
 
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LowRiver2

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I don’t think you need a rivet gun maybe a couple self tapper screws for a trail fix. I keep an m12 - 1/4 and m18 - 1/2 Impact with charger and extra batts in case of a yard sale....

lol
Yard sale: did lots of those in my rhino at Glamis. A mallet and vise grips fixed most anything wrong on that sxs, Only had beer flying out of ice chests, not much else back then lol
 
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DLC

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Yard sale: did lots of those in my rhino at Glamis. A mallet and vise grips fixed most anything wrong on that sxs, Only had beer flying out of ice chests, not much else back then lol
whats funny about the old rhino days i had like 1000-1200 miles on a 10 year old rhino! Top cruising speed Was 28-32. It took a long time to put on miles on those cars. The new cars are so fast it’s easy to put on 200 miles in a weekend! And NOT feel beat up!
 

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whats funny about the old rhino days i had like 1000-1200 miles on a 10 year old rhino! Top cruising speed Was 28-32. It took a long time to put on miles on those cars. The new cars are so fast it’s easy to put on 200 miles in a weekend! And NOT feel beat up!
We’re doing 200 miles in a day pretty soon! Alamo 200
 
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LowRiver2

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So my buddy sheared a radius rod alignment bolt.
He blamed it on his tires being aligned “in” vs him catching air and not having a rear shear plate (which I thought he had). I told him to look at the hubs. I’m betting damage there from the wear and tear of bigger tires .
 

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So my buddy sheared a radius rod alignment bolt.
He blamed it on his tires being aligned “in” vs him catching air and not having a rear shear plate (which I thought he had). I told him to look at the hubs. I’m betting damage there from the wear and tear of bigger tires .
That didn't take long. His camber or toe setting has nothing to do with it.

He better get a hub reinforcement kit before he has to buy new rear hubs because they are trashed.
 

LowRiver2

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I got him on last minute at my shop and he’s placing blame on them ? Nope lol
As soon as he said jump, It was not alignment , lol
 

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I got him on last minute at my shop and he’s placing blame on them ? Nope lol
As soon as he said jump, It was not alignment , lol
How it is a shops fault that a bolt broke? It looks like he had aftermarket radius and toe rods already... Or did the shop put those on?
 

DLC

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Shock therapy has the dbl shear kit for a $100 bucks easy to install- don’t wait on that one!

did he just weld up the hitch to the stock set up, it could be an alignment Issue if he welded it up....


D4D202E4-48CC-4FC8-9ED5-B0B8DF77E7D4.jpeg
 

DLC

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The Dempsey bolt kit is a fantastic upgrade to the stock bolts, save some of the stock bolts in your tool bag for just in case situations

3352EC3F-113F-4260-AD83-F44320EF5C63.png
 

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The Dempsey bolt kit is a fantastic upgrade to the stock bolts, save some of the stock bolts in your tool bag for just in case situations

View attachment 933456
I was looking at their kit for my RZR, but didnt pull the trigger because of the Speed car.

FWIW the Speed car is supposed to have all the correct shouldered bolts on it from the factory. Robby did a hour long dissertation on correct shouldered hardware several months ago.

I have no idea why Polaris and Can Am can't get with the program on that.
 
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LowRiver2

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I was looking at their kit for my RZR, but didnt pull the trigger because of the Speed car.

FWIW the Speed car is supposed to have all the correct shouldered bolts on it from the factory. Robby did a hour long dissertation on correct shouldered hardware several months ago.

I have no idea why Polaris and Can Am can't get with the program on that.
Bottom line I’m sure must be the issue
 

LowRiver2

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How it is a shops fault that a bolt broke? It looks like he had aftermarket radius and toe rods already... Or did the shop put those on?
He put the rods on , ran it, then the shop aligned them .he did at least one trip with the rods on and I’m sure that contributed to some where
 
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LowRiver2

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Shock therapy has the dbl shear kit for a $100 bucks easy to install- don’t wait on that one!

did he just weld up the hitch to the stock set up, it could be an alignment Issue if he welded it up....


View attachment 933454
The plate isn’t welded on. He ordered a rear shear plate from assault.
He is Adamant the toe in caused bad tracking and handling the whole trip.
He conceded airing the car out sheared the alignment bolt.
The hub appears to not have wear. He is upgrading the hubs though.
 

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The plate isn’t welded on. He ordered a rear shear plate from assault.
He is Adamant the toe in caused bad tracking and handling the whole trip.
He conceded airing the car out sheared the alignment bolt.
The hub appears to not have wear. He is upgrading the hubs though.
It may very well had a bad alignment, I’ve paid for my fair share of those at crappy shops.

Although even if the air pressure is off 1/2 PSI the car won’t track straight even with a perfect alignment.
 
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