Cavitation plate expert needed

[Eliminator21vdrive]

Rebuilding 1979 Eliminator 21 vd and adding a center plate. Original plates are tapered to the outside of boat . Going to make stainless replacements for them and am looking for advise on dimensions.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Stainless will typically be thinner because they are waaay harder to bend.

In case you haven't thought of it, it looks like your boat has alum plates now, if so, the bottom is already clearanced for 1/4 alum plates.

There are several other peeps on here waaay more qualified to answer. But since it is the boat show weekend, might be slim until Monday.

Just my worthless .02

Brian

 

[wsuwrhr]

Most peeps run the transom bearings out to the end of the plates now so the angle is, or is close to, 90deg, makes for more travel on the plates.

 

[bocco]

Something else to consider might be moving your water pick up to the cav plates and getting the holes in the hull filled.

 

[BamBam]

I'm no expert as requested, but I would suggest copying those plates. Change one thing in the geometry and it will get expensive fast with all new turnbuckles. Unless you are trying to fix an issue with performance I would leave it. Is the keel rounded? Either way there is probably not a recess in the area where there is no plate and I would recommend a flat plate similar to what you would see under an external rudder. Hope that is a little help.

 

[wsuwrhr]

Turnbuckles prolly could be reused, the pillow blocks would have to be remade.

I'm no expert as requested, but I would suggest copying those plates. Change one thing in the geometry and it will get expensive fast with all new turnbuckles. Unless you are trying to fix an issue with performance I would leave it. Is the keel rounded? Either way there is probably not a recess in the area where there is no plate and I would recommend a flat plate similar to what you would see under an external rudder. Hope that is a little help.