Cavitation Plate eye lever

[kurtisflat]

We're fixing to get our new flat soon and I need some insight as to how long the eye-levers need to be on a race boat? Here's all the info I have for the hull/engine combiination. Cole TR-2 550lb lay-up. Cassale 10* with 15 gears, 800+hp BBC. We plan to run 9.0's, any and all help will be apreciated, thanks Dave.

 

[RiverDave]

Are you talking about arm that comes off the cav rod?

 

[ka0tyk]

Are you talking about arm that comes off the cav rod?

the eye lever is what connects to the turnbuckle off the rod that goes across the boat

more info here:

http://www.performanceboats.com/v-drives/5956-cav-plate-hardware-q.html

 

[SFV2RVR]

We're fixing to get our new flat soon and I need some insight as to how long the eye-levers need to be on a race boat? Here's all the info I have for the hull/engine combiination. Cole TR-2 550lb lay-up. Cassale 10* with 15 gears, 800+hp BBC. We plan to run 9.0's, any and all help will be apreciated, thanks Dave.

Pm Marko on the boards. He has the same boat with almost the identical setup. His boat takes a perfect set and runs bitchen!

 

[kurtisflat]

the eye lever is what connects to the turnbuckle off the rod that goes across the boat

more info here:

http://www.performanceboats.com/v-drives/5956-cav-plate-hardware-q.html

ka0tyk, thanks for the link, it helped alot. Now I can ballpark the levers:thumbup:

 

[racerden]

Generally longer eye levers are for leverage and clearance reasoning's. Plates that have a lot of up/down (say 5/8" or so) often require taller eye levers to:
1- Alleviate contact with the cross bar in a full down request
2- Generate a bit less down pedal travel & effort

Note- With the added leverage taller levers generate, the more prone to fracture failure they become. Unless your plate hardware/geometries are super custom it's doubtful you need 'em for your drag boat. G' luk hope it helps,
197

 

[AzGeo]

a 'staggered' set up of levers . For example; 2" on the right plate, 1 1/2" on the center plate, 1 1/8" on the left plate . This is done in an attempt to counter act the 'torque loading' against the hull as the prop transitions from the 'flash at the hit' to when the boat 'takes a set' .

BIG up spring pressures with an up stop, are your friends .

 

[kurtisflat]

AzGeo, Thanks for the info, I will get with Pete on this. Our old Kurtis didn't seem like it had enough down as it wanted to fly the bow with the plate buried. Checked the plate several times and it was good, and yes spring pressure and up stop are your best freinds

 

[AzGeo]

going to have 'a little more rocker, in a different place', and a lower shaft angle, to work with the hull bottom .

"It all must work together" . I like running a smaller prop diameter, they don't require longer levers, and they can be moved back more . I feel the boat is not working correctly if you must 'lay on the down' , just to drive it out .

If your 'up pedal' is at 10 O'clock, and the 'all the way down', is at 2 O'clock, then I want to leave the rope at 12 (half way down), and be off the down while passing over the start line . The boat should 'set on it's own', while you 'COVER the down with your foot' .

The advancements in the new boat will allow you realize the power you have, no more racing with the brakes on ...