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Deck Coating

jailbird141

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Looking for opinions from anyone who has coated or recoated their outside deck in Havasu. I am getting ready to coat the second story balcony's and am having a tough time deciding what product to use. It seems like they all have as many horror stories as they do success stories, so any input from anyone who has used a particular product with success would be appreciated. Also, any advice on products to stay away from would be appreciated as well. I am leaning towards the Gaco Deck Coating kit. Thanks in advance for any input.
 

Joker

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Looking for opinions from anyone who has coated or recoated their outside deck in Havasu. I am getting ready to coat the second story balcony's and am having a tough time deciding what product to use. It seems like they all have as many horror stories as they do success stories, so any input from anyone who has used a particular product with success would be appreciated. Also, any advice on products to stay away from would be appreciated as well. I am leaning towards the Gaco Deck Coating kit. Thanks in advance for any input.

What’s on it now? Pics
 

jailbird141

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jailbird141

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Here is a picture before the stucco. The balcony is on the second floor in the center, there is a second one one the back of the house. Both are roughly 10 feet wide by 6 feet deep.
 

Joker

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As long as they kept the weep screed 2” off the deck, I’d hot mop or use a good peel and stick and tile it. If you’re stuck on coatings, find someone to install Dex O Tex. You’re going to maintain a coating every 5 years
 

HNL2LHC

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We typically see waterproofing under what ever tile or stone that you want. Be sure to carry the waterproof material up the walls and inside the home a few feet if possible. I caught a GC cutting corners on Architect’s specs only to have water flooding into the kitchen on the first floor below. You can use Schluter product called Ditra. You can find it here.


The GC did not seal the joint at the wall and floor or going into the home and when the rain came it just flooded the house.

I have also seen Red Guard used for these applications with good success.
 

Joker

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We typically see waterproofing under what ever tile or stone that you want. Be sure to carry the waterproof material up the walls and inside the home a few feet if possible. I caught a GC cutting corners on Architect’s specs only to have water flooding into the kitchen on the first floor below. You can use Schluter product called Ditra. You can find it here.


The GC did not seal the joint at the wall and floor or going into the home and when the rain came it just flooded the house.

I have also seen Red Guard used for these applications with good success.

You’re correct, ensure there are pans underneath the exit doors as well
 

NicPaus

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Post some pictures of the flashing above the plywood. Last few I have done we use deck diado flashing and I used desert brand deck system. I used it on my Parker deck 9 years ago and it has held up great to the heat. It's costly but here in CA on last 2 new builds I have to warranty it for 10 years.
 

hman442

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I used two part Gaco on the roof of my houseboat, it held up for 14 years that I knew of. I put the walnut shells in it for anti slip, but you may not need those.

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Mandelon

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Dex o Tex or Life Deck. I believe both are modified cementious base and acrylic top coated multi layer systems. They should hold up well in the desert heat. But they do require recoating the wear layer on top, which is really just an acyrlic paint.

Pacific Polymers has a few epoxy coating products that I use often. They are for decks and parking lots. Never had any failure issues.
 

jailbird141

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Thank you all for the input so far! Going to look into Life Deck and Pacific Polymers. I was hoping to avoid a multi layer system just to make the installation as easy as possible. But, if I have to do a multi layer for durability I will.
 

ConcreteDr

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Dexotex is a floating system adhered at the perimeter only. AKA slipsheet system
Pacific Polymers is a fully adhered system. AKA elastomeric direct bond system

There are pluses and minuses of both systems....

The most important steps are the plywood ( never OSB ) needs to be glued and screwed or ring-shank nails ONLY.

Slope is the responsibility of the framer / builder / designer if its flat it needs to be sloped by the decking contractor.

This could be 2X the specified system.

ALSO

if they fuck up the sheet metal and forget or fuck up the door pan your screwed

I make a great living tearing up the low bidders work and repairing it.

Find a guy who has references and does the entire system metal, pans and waterproofing.

Also I think Joker mentioned it above you need clear span of 2 inches from top of system to the stucco reveal or it will wick and rot will eventually kill the assembly.

I spend a lot of time with Insurance companies and lawyers reviewing defective work in this area trust me when I say get a professional and pay to do it right the first time.
 

Mandelon

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Pacific Polymers Elasto Deck 5000 and 6001 is basically four coats of a rubber like epoxy. It cures with just the moisture in the air. Two base coats, two top coats. A sprinkling of sand in coat # 3. It goes on like a thick paint. Easy to use, but maybe a bit messy. Kinda hard to clean if you get too much grit into it. But it holds up great and is super strong.
 
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