DIY- Shower Tile Replacement- Can of worms?

[Bear Down]

Am I opening a can of worms by thinking of removing tile from my shower and reinstalling new ones? It can't be as simple as removing the existing tile and reusing the cement board and removing adhesive is it? I installed a Shit ton of Tile with my dad as a kid, but this was like 25 years ago..

its a stand up shower about a 4x4x10.. small...

 

[Spudsbud]

Thats a weekend project since you have a it of experience. Take your time. Get a couple prices 1st to see if youre really saving that much.

 

[Spudsbud]

Thats a weekend project since you have abit of experience. Take your time. Get a couple prices 1st to see if youre really saving that much.

 

[NicPaus]

Hopefully they used cheap thin set when installed.

 

[aka619er]

Good luck with this group. They will probably tell you that you need a licensed professional that is in the union.

Seriously though, it's a fun DIY project. When I did mine I found they double drywalled behind the tile. I removed this and used cement backerboard and Redgard waterproofing. Then mortar and tile.

Have fun.

 

[Yellowboat]

I have replaced hundreds of showers not seen one yet where I could reuse the underlayment with out massive repair. Better just too budget having to do it all.

 

[Bear Down]

Hopefully they used cheap thin set when installed.

that is my main concern...If they have a heavy hand... There really is no real alternative but to install new Cement wall board correct?

 

[Bear Down]

Thats a weekend project since you have a it of experience. Take your time. Get a couple prices 1st to see if youre really saving that much.

No one seems to want to do just the shower, they want to do a complete bathroom remodel... its pretty absurd. I figure 1 day to remove tile and 2nd day cutting and installing...

 

[Yellowboat]

that is my main concern...If they have a heavy hand... There really is no real alternative but to install new Cement wall board correct?

I personally would not use cement board. Hydro block or wedi they cost more, but they are so simple it's not even funny.

 

[sonicss31]

that is my main concern...If they have a heavy hand... There really is no real alternative but to install new Cement wall board correct?

Just plan on new cement board. Your new surface will make setting the tile painless and overall job look professional. JMO.

 

[Mike Honcho]

I have replaced a few and some come off easier than others it really is a crap shoot unless some jackass used acrylic in the thin set. I use a bosch chipper (mini jackhammer and it comes off pretty easy with a flat bit.

Like This: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Bosch-1...-Hammer-with-Carrying-Case-11316EVS/100034665

 

[mesquito_creek]

No one seems to want to do just the shower, they want to do a complete bathroom remodel... its pretty absurd. I figure 1 day to remove tile and 2nd day cutting and installing...

Depending on what type of tile you go with, You probably don't want to try to stack 5+ feet of tile vertically in one day... The top courses will be to heavy on the wet bottom courses.

This would be a 5-7 day project for me. day 1-2) demo and replace with backer board, fiberglass tape and thinset all the joints, 3) water proofing 4) set base courses of tile and let set 5) set remaining tile.... 6) grout

... I would probably add another day and replace all the valves while I have the wall open....

.... with my luck my wife would want niches... so add another day to frame in all the niches and add time to all the backerboard , waterproofing and tile cuts....

 

[RichL]

I have replaced hundreds of showers not seen one yet where I could reuse the underlayment with out massive repair. Better just too budget having to do it all.

This...

 

[DirtyWhiteDog]

Depending on what type of tile you go with, You probably don't want to try to stack 5+ feet of tile vertically in one day... The top courses will be to heavy on the wet bottom courses.

This would be a 5-7 day project for me. day 1-2) demo and replace with backer board, fiberglass tape and thinset all the joints, 3) water proofing 4) set base courses of tile and let set 5) set remaining tile.... 6) grout

... I would probably add another day and replace all the valves while I have the wall open....

.... with my luck my wife would want niches... so add another day to frame in all the niches and add time to all the backerboard , waterproofing and tile cuts....

They have pre made nitches at places like floor & decor. I would use something like dens-sheld, that's what I see being used in new construction now.

 

[JDKRXW]

Good luck with this group. They will probably tell you that you need a licensed professional.
.

Haha, that's because half of them ARE licensed contractors.

 

[WildHorses24]

No one seems to want to do just the shower, they want to do a complete bathroom remodel... its pretty absurd. I figure 1 day to remove tile and 2nd day cutting and installing...

Just finished mine, here’s my .02. If you plan on living there for more than 5yrs stay away from the wedi board or schluter board crap. Do it right, I’m probably into mine about $4k with materials and hiring the hotmop & lath/plaster. I did everything else. I’d also figure more time to set tiles depending on what size and how intricate you get. Good luck.

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[NicPaus]

Just finished mine, here’s my .02. If you plan on living there for more than 5yrs stay away from the wedi board or schluter board crap. Do it right, I’m probably into mine about $4k with materials and hiring the hotmop & lath/plaster. I did everything else. I’d also figure more time to set tiles depending on what size and how intricate you get. Good luck.
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Looks good you get that wavy tile at floor and decor? Tiling a shower now with the same.

 

[franky]

Just finished mine, here’s my .02. If you plan on living there for more than 5yrs stay away from the wedi board or schluter board crap. Do it right, I’m probably into mine about $4k with materials and hiring the hotmop & lath/plaster. I did everything else. I’d also figure more time to set tiles depending on what size and how intricate you get. Good luck.
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Down to the studs, new Dens, caulk joints and all screwheads, Redgaurd joints/screwheads, then Redgaurd the whole thing.

Generally it is really not worth trying to save the underlayment. Floating out the damaged areas takes more time.

 

[NicPaus]

that is my main concern...If they have a heavy hand... There really is no real alternative but to install new Cement wall board correct?

Even with a light hand it most likely will not just pop off especially if they used a decent thin set. If you redo the cement board or float you will want to redo the waterproofing which starts with the pan. No tiling the same day might be a few days to properly get it ready for tile.

If you are lucky it's a thick original float that can be skim coated. If the float is salvaged you could coat it with hydroban to make sure it is waterproof and then tile it. If you are close to Redondo beach you can stop by and I will walk you through the process. Tile is not easy if you are picky. I have my main guy doing the tile here as it is tedious and takes time to make it perfect. Now if you just want small subway tile with 1/4" grout easy to do.

 

[WildHorses24]

Looks good you get that wavy tile at floor and decor? Tiling a shower now with the same.

Yes, was looking for the marble dam and wife liked it. Just don’t drink while setting , the wave has a pattern and I mixed it up a couple times! Flooring there is crap though.


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[NicPaus]

Yes, was looking for the marble dam and wife liked it. Just don’t drink while setting , the wave has a pattern and I mixed it up a couple times! Flooring there is crap though.


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Almost every thing there they make or have made in China. Both these bathrooms wereonly $1800 after tax where my local tile spot would be $6-8K for similar tile.

Pattern flows good except transition to next wall where it must be cut. Not bad most will never notice.

 

[Bear Down]

Even with a light hand it most likely will not just pop off especially if they used a decent thin set. If you redo the cement board or float you will want to redo the waterproofing which starts with the pan. No tiling the same day might be a few days to properly get it ready for tile.

If you are lucky it's a thick original float that can be skim coated. If the float is salvaged you could coat it with hydroban to make sure it is waterproof and then tile it. If you are close to Redondo beach you can stop by and I will walk you through the process. Tile is not easy if you are picky. I have my main guy doing the tile here as it is tedious and takes time to make it perfect. Now if you just want small subway tile with 1/4" grout easy to do.

Good christ...

I'm not afraid of doing this... and can probably pull it off well as we have 2 bathrooms and I don't need to rush, but the cost seems pretty nuts just to change the look.. at that point might as well do the whole bathroom... I just don't want to go down a rabbit hole and this house was built in 64'

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[RVR2SNO]

Started mine yesterday! Good luck.

 

[NicPaus]

Just think of all the money you will save doing it yourself. To tile a shower looking at $2500 minimum unless you find a tile guy doing side work that's hungry. Find a good 1 that works in the Southbay that's not a month out send him my way.

 

[Mandelon]

We have had pretty good luck going right over the old tile on some jobs. If the existing tiles are bonded well, you can use Laticrete 254 Platinum. It is made to bond tile to tile. I'm not saying this is the best way, but it works and saves a ton of time and effort. We've done if many times with great results.

Mix up a batch of the Laticrete and roll it on the old walls like a thick paint. Let it dry and now you have a rough and grippy substrate. Use the Laticrete again for your thinset. Some times we have used a grinder to rough up the surface of the old tile if it is super slick.

I do like the HydroBlok presloped pans. Their system is pretty amazing. We've been using that a bunch lately.

 

[Turnup]

Just finished mine, here’s my .02. If you plan on living there for more than 5yrs stay away from the wedi board or schluter board crap. Do it right, I’m probably into mine about $4k with materials and hiring the hotmop & lath/plaster. I did everything else. I’d also figure more time to set tiles depending on what size and how intricate you get. Good luck.
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Is that backsplash on the bench and niche sill? I have about 50 splashes that's a pretty good use right there.

 

[wzuber]

Just finished mine, here’s my .02. If you plan on living there for more than 5yrs stay away from the wedi board or schluter board crap. Do it right, I’m probably into mine about $4k with materials and hiring the hotmop & lath/plaster. I did everything else. I’d also figure more time to set tiles depending on what size and how intricate you get. Good luck.
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I dig that wavey tile look..nice job.

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[NicPaus]

Home owner said they just got it in stock in a light gray. She might go with that in the 3rd bathroom.

 

[hallett21]

I wouldn’t even consider not replacing pan and re floating walls. Just not worth it to me. I would change the valve too.

Through a little twist in mine.

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[Yellowboat]

Just think of all the money you will save doing it yourself. To tile a shower looking at $2500 minimum unless you find a tile guy doing side work that's hungry. Find a good 1 that works in the Southbay that's not a month out send him my way.

A month out is damn good. The guys I used in Sacramento were always 4-6 months out. In bend I found a pair of brothers that were 3 months out. A good tile guy is very hard to find.

 

[wzuber]

damn dude that looks niiiice, super sano and minimalistic..(at least n that photo)
nice work

 

[rivergames]

Hot mop has been tried and tried and true, but is an old technology.

Fluid applied waterproofings such as Laticrete Hydroban or Customs Red Guard are great products. You just gotta learn how to tie the waterproofing into the drain flange (just like hot mopping).

We use Laticrete Hydroban in massive hotel/apartment buildings with hundreds and hundreds of showers. I'm using Laticrete Hydroban fluid applied waterproofing in the massive restrooms I'm doing at the new International terminal at LAX. These restrooms are about 1,500 SF each and require water testing.

Do not install over existing wall substrates. Rip it out down to studs and start fresh.

 

[wzuber]

www.tileyourworld.com
this ^^^ is the john bridge tile forum if you want to get additional insight, input, advice on backer materials, waterproofing, and all things tile related. Excellent resource.

 

[Yellowboat]

Hot mop has been tried and tried and true, but is an old technology.

Fluid applied waterproofings such as Laticrete Hydroban or Customs Red Guard are great products. You just gotta learn how to tie the waterproofing into the drain flange (just like hot mopping).

We use Laticrete Hydroban in massive hotel/apartment buildings with hundreds and hundreds of showers. I'm using Laticrete Hydroban fluid applied waterproofing in the massive restrooms I'm doing at the new International terminal at LAX. These restrooms are about 1,500 SF

I have not used the fuild water proofing in years, what does it cost now to do a 3x5 floor to ceiling with them? I am intrested in what the cost difference is between them and hydrlock. I have had very good luck with that and wedi. Presloped pans, niches and easy installs is why I went with them. With hydrlock it's about $1100 in parts to do a standard 3x5 with a niche and a seat. Takes me about 6 hours to do the install. That is me being super anal and making sure the niche lines up with a joint in the tile.

 

[NicPaus]

I have not used the fuild water proofing in years, what does it cost now to do a 3x5 floor to ceiling with them? I am intrested in what the cost difference is between them and hydrlock. I have had very good luck with that and wedi. Presloped pans, niches and easy installs is why I went with them. With hydrlock it's about $1100 in parts to do a standard 3x5 with a niche and a seat. Takes me about 6 hours to do the install. That is me being super anal and making sure the niche lines up with a joint in the tile.

Gallon of hydroban is $90. Red guard is about half the price. With float or cement board, prefab stainless niche and water proofing . Cost me around $400 for materials on a 3x5. The new systems are nice but pricey. My hot tar kettle has not moved in years thanks to Rivergames turning me onto Hydroban. Using red guard on one now as they were out of hydroban. Cheaper but goes on thicker. The other 2 bathrooms used hydroban.

 

[Yellowboat]

Gallon of hydroban is $90. Red guard is about half the price. With float or cement board, prefab stainless niche and water proofing . Cost me around $400 for materials on a 3x5. The new systems are nice but pricey. My hot tar kettle has not moved in years thanks to Rivergames turning me onto Hydroban. Using red guard on one now as they were out of hydroban. Cheaper but goes on thicker. The other 2 bathrooms used hydroban.

So about 1/3 The cost, how long is the install?

After my 1st wedi, I never looked back. When hydrlock came out being cheaper and thier pan install kits came with everything needed to install instead of having to buy every part like with wedi I switched.

It has been a funny progression for me, I started with hot mop, my hot mop guy retired, tried a few others was never happy with them. Went to fluger, hated it, then wedi, followed by hydrlock.

I must say Lily at series glass block was the one that turned me on to wedi. I can't thank her enough

 

[Socalx09]

I helped my dad remodel the downstairs bathroom after my grandma couldn’t do the stairs anymore. Getting quotes of 6k to7k at the time. It had one of those fake plastic tub inserts. She needed a walk in shower. Once we ripped that out, we discovered a bit of mold. Hired a professional to take care of that and then there was no drywall left in the bathroom. Decided to tile the whole bathroom with travertine including the walls. Floor and decor was having a clearance sale on it so it was cheaper then having to redo all the dry wall properly. My dad payed someone to do the waterproofing and pan. He taught me how to tile the with these level spacers. I think it might have been ridgid who made the product because it had that orange look. They acted as spacers and also spun around to make sure the tiles were level. It helped me a lot. He did most of the work, but I put in some hours while he was working. It turned out really good, need to find some pictures, but it was not as fast as I thought it would be, and whenever you open up a wall, you never know what is behind it.

 

[NicPaus]

So about 1/3 The cost, how long is the install?

I pre slope pan takes a hour or so with deck mud. Then next day waterproof pan another hour. Then wait 2 hours and have them black paper and float or install backer board about 4-6 hours. Fill with water and inspection next day. I would be more inclined to try the others if I had to prepare the walls myself.

 

[Yellowboat]

So it's about the same time just about a third as much

 

[Nordie]

So no one likes the Schluter system? I got sent to a training course for it, as the GCs I worked for all used it. I didn't mind it at all. We did float our own pans though, mind you these homes were all on concrete floors. Kind of a hybrid type of deal, also after waterproofing we would float the entire walls anyhow. Probably a very expensive way to do it, but there are perks to cost plus building.

 

[hallett21]

So no one likes the Schluter system? I got sent to a training course for it, as the GCs I worked for all used it. I didn't mind it at all. We did float our own pans though, mind you these homes were all on concrete floors. Kind of a hybrid type of deal, also after waterproofing we would float the entire walls anyhow. Probably a very expensive way to do it, but there are perks to cost plus building.

Our guys use it from time to time



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[NicPaus]

So it's about the same time just about a third as much

Yeah. For a beginner the other systems probably a lot faster. They can float a shower in half the time I can. A beginner I would not suggest floating.

 

[rivergames]

So it's about the same time just about a third as much

If you are hot mopping, you need to slope to the drain, hot mop, and then slop to the drain again.

With Hydroban, you slop to the drain, waterproof and you're done! 1 less step! Cheaper, quicker and a GREAT product!

NOTE: Once Hydroban has cured (typically overnight) ALWAYS WATERTEST FOR MINIMUM 12 HOURS

 

[NicPaus]

I had a pin hole leak on test in the hydroban could not even see the hole. Always 2 coats like directions show. I did 1 coat. Left it for 2 weeks full of water to make sure after 2nd coat.

 

[rivergames]

I had a pin hole leak on test in the hydroban could not even see the hole. Always 2 coats like directions show. I did 1 coat. Left it for 2 weeks full of water to make sure after 2nd coat.

Correct! Always 2 coats!

Also, you don't want to cake the waterproofing on. Like mentioned, follow the directions for the correct application.

 

[NicPaus]

Correct! Always 2 coats!

Also, you don't want to cake the waterproofing on. Like mentioned, follow the directions for the correct application.

What's your thoughts on linear drain. I pre sloped water tested and now have to float in the drain catch basin. Should I put 2 more coats hydroban over that float and waterproof in the basin or no need with weep holes already. Figure 2 layers of waterproof is better than 1 and this job will be lifetime warranty work not 1 year.

 

[rivergames]

What's your thoughts on linear drain. I pre sloped water tested and now have to float in the drain catch basin. Should I put 2 more coats hydroban over that float and waterproof in the basin or no need with weep holes already. Figure 2 layers of waterproof is better than 1 and this job will be lifetime warranty work not 1 year.

Does the drain have flange that you are tiling over or are you tiling up to the drain?

 

[NicPaus]

Does the drain have flange that you are tiling over or are you tiling up to the drain?

No flange. Up to. Similar catch basin to this one. They want tile in the center strip of linear drain.

 

[rivergames]

No flange. Up to. Similar catch basin to this one. They want tile in the center strip of linear drain. View attachment 807705

Location of weep holes in drain?

 

[NicPaus]

Location of weep holes in drain?

In the drain base that the basin goes into. So if any water gets by edge of this basin pictured no problem will drain out weep holes. Presloped to weep holes then waterproofed. I have done them with hot mop and just floated them in then tile.