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DO YOU HAVE BRAVO OVERHEATING ISSUES?

REVENGE 97

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If you have had a overheating issue and not being able to get it figured out I can almost guarantee this is your problem. If your engine runs fine on the hose at home and runs fine at low speeds on the water but starts to run warm at mid to high speeds or after running a fresh water cooled engine for a half hour or so you need to replace the water supply hose from your drive to and through your gimbal housing. Over a period of time the gimbal housing starts to corrode right at the point that the supply hose goes through the housing and as the corrosion expands it crushes the plastic insert that holds the hose in the housing and closes off the water supply, sometimes over 50%. No matter if you use your boat in fresh or salt water this can happen. You really can't see it unless you take it apart. MerCruiser makes a new designed hose that keeps this from happening. I have told many boaters about this issue and most just don't believe me and they continue to go about changing their impellers, pumps and flushing their cooling systems with no luck, it will keep overheating until you change this hose out, see pictures, look close and you can see the blockage. PM me if you have any questions.
 

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Shrub Lurker

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when the student is ready:
the teacher will appear!


Is it necessary to pull the drive for access to install this???
 
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poncho

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I replaced that on my 2003 with 70 hours on it 3 years ago when I bought the boat. Marina called and said we want to show you something that is notorious on these Bravos. Mine had just started showing the signs but being an engineer on fishing boats I fully understood the concept of it wont heal itself. Kind of pissed me off at first being new to me and such low hours.
 

Lavey 29

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Mercruiser has the exact Service Bulletin out since 1990 about this issue. I would go with the latest Mercruiser kit to repair the issue. Or go with a water pick up from the transom not using the drive thru the transom assembly cooling.

Clear water hose installed in sections for testing is how many find were the cooling issues are. Also water flow volume output testing is another way to find cooling issues
 
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96motorhead

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What does the new part do differently than the old part? Do you have pictures of the new part?
 

Lavey 29

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I would use the latest merc kit because the ID is larger than it was before and its an improved updated kit. That Amarket is a small ID and could stave a big engine of water flow. Heck you can even see how small the inside diameter in the pic that was posted. Also If I recall CORRECTLY alot of their stuff is GLM all made in China.
 

Shrub Lurker

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Can you sneak the old mess out with out pulling gimbal n shit?
 

Wedgy

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I would use the latest merc kit because the ID is larger than it was before and its an improved updated kit. That Amarket is a small ID and could stave a big engine of water flow. Heck you can even see how small the inside diameter in the pic that was posted. Also If I recall CORRECTLY alot of their stuff is GLM all made in China.
If Mercury has addressed the overheating issue I would always go with a Factory part if it has been resolved by Mercury. Good advice Lavey29.

As far as I know the drive has to come off, not sure about the gimbal assy, hafta look at a book. But. OMC Cobra. Mercury Guys?

I will cringe when I say I have seen my FIL Leonard install driven pump/thru hull water pickups for a few grateful Customers up on Lake Shatsa. His go to fix to get them back up and running quickly and save the Vacation. All his wooden kit boats were v-drives tho, so he's got Priors....
 
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