Dual perko switch's

[pwerwagn]

So my Carrera has 2 perkos, and only 2 batt's. Can anyone think of a reason to need 2?

I can put one perko on Batt 1, the other off and everything works but one volt meter reads like 1/2 v lower. I typically run one on 1, the other on 2...but for no good reason. If I put one on both, both batt's work.

The boat never had more than 2 batteries. So I'm kind of confused.

Any ideas why someone would wire in 2?

Jeff

 

[Yellowboat]

just in case of failure?



that's the only reason I can think of.

 

[oldschool]

I'm no help, I can't even make one Perko switch work right.

 

[pwerwagn]

just in case of failure?



that's the only reason I can think of.

That was my only thought as well. Do people do this commonly?

 

[STV_Keith]

Are they both wired the same (in parallel)? If so, the 1/2V drop when one is OFF is because of wiring/resistance.

Only real reason to have 2 that I can think of is one could be dedicated to the stereo.

 

[28skater]

That was my only thought as well. Do people do this commonly?

Single engine with two batteries one switch when rigging a twin motor rig two batteries and two switches to separate each engines wiring circuit.

 

[pwerwagn]

My boat is twins, and when I bought it I figured the circuits were separate. But I can put either batt on 1 or 2 or one off and one on 2, etc...any combo and everything works fine.

I may spend a day rewiring and separate the systems unless one is dead, then I can switch one to all. That's how they "should" be, correct?

 

[Taboma]

I dunno, this diagram from Perko, two engines, two batteries and two switches, why reinvent the wheel ?? :rolleyes

 

[pwerwagn]

Interesting. I'm 90% sure mine isn't wired that way but I'll take a look. Maybe there was a method behind it.

I do need to rewrite the stereo tho. It's off the port key...which runs the port hour meter.

 

[pwerwagn]

Does anyone see a reason to separate the charging systems on my 300 mercs?

 

[Taboma]

Does anyone see a reason to separate the charging systems on my 300 mercs?

Yes, proper regulation being one, one alternator becoming lazy as a result. The real question is, why would you want to tie them together ? Perhaps what you really need is a third house battery, with a charge combiner (preferred method but also with yet a third Perko switch can be charged off either engine) for your stereo.

Combining the two systems is probably the least desirable way to accomplish much of anything really

 

[pwerwagn]

Yes, proper regulation being one, one alternator becoming lazy as a result. The real question is, why would you want to tie them together ? Perhaps what you really need is a third house battery, with a charge combiner (preferred method but also with yet a third Perko switch can be charged off either engine) for your stereo.

Combining the two systems is probably the least desirable way to accomplish much of anything really

I guess it's not that I want to combine them, I'm 90% sure they're already wired that way. I guess my question should have said:
"if my switches are tied together, is there a good reason to separate them".

Sounds like there is.

 

[Paul65k]

When you get it figured out and wired the way you want it you may want to use one of these

 

[Taboma]

I guess it's not that I want to combine them, I'm 90% sure they're already wired that way. I guess my question should have said:
"if my switches are tied together, is there a good reason to separate them".

Sounds like there is.

The diagram I posted on page 1, does allow for both separated and combined operation.

Basic normal operation: Port switch in # 1 position = Engine # 1, Battery # 1 connected and separate from # 2.
Starboard switch in # 2 position = Engine # 2, battery # 2 connected and separate from # 1.

Other positions: Port switch in # 2 position or Starboard in # 1 position = allows engine to be started from either battery, but also while in that position you've combined the systems.

Either switch in ALL position = allows BOTH batteries to start one engine, or both engines, again systems combined.

Essentially, this allows for separating, combining, doing just about anything with your batteries as needed.

This also allows for one of your two batteries to function as a House battery, then use the other to start both engines at the end of the day. If the stereo is wired off the ACC switch position, then the hour meter, which should be on the Ign. terminal should not be running, something is wired wrong there.

Take a piece of paper, draw that diagram with it switched in various combos, in the ALL position, it simply ties # 1 and # 2 together instead of either or.

Once you understand it, then go look at how yours is wired and draw it up. As Paul pointed out, while doing so trace and label each cable, don't take anything for granted, that's where folks get into trouble.

Once you've sorted out your system, then that 1/2 volt difference can be much more easily sorted out or it may become obvious. It's hard to give you definitive answers when there's so many variables, the main thing is, before you start dinking around removing cables from switches, disconnect the cables from your batteries, at a minimum the negative cable from each.

Have a beer (But only one when playing with sparks ) and go play detective :hmm

 

[pwerwagn]

The diagram I posted on page 1, does allow for both separated and combined operation.

Basic normal operation: Port switch in # 1 position = Engine # 1, Battery # 1 connected and separate from # 2.
Starboard switch in # 2 position = Engine # 2, battery # 2 connected and separate from # 1.

Other positions: Port switch in # 2 position or Starboard in # 1 position = allows engine to be started from either battery, but also while in that position you've combined the systems.

Either switch in ALL position = allows BOTH batteries to start one engine, or both engines, again systems combined.

Essentially, this allows for separating, combining, doing just about anything with your batteries as needed.

This also allows for one of your two batteries to function as a House battery, then use the other to start both engines at the end of the day. If the stereo is wired off the ACC switch position, then the hour meter, which should be on the Ign. terminal should not be running, something is wired wrong there.

Take a piece of paper, draw that diagram with it switched in various combos, in the ALL position, it simply ties # 1 and # 2 together instead of either or.

Once you understand it, then go look at how yours is wired and draw it up. As Paul pointed out, while doing so trace and label each cable, don't take anything for granted, that's where folks get into trouble.

Once you've sorted out your system, then that 1/2 volt difference can be much more easily sorted out or it may become obvious. It's hard to give you definitive answers when there's so many variables, the main thing is, before you start dinking around removing cables from switches, disconnect the cables from your batteries, at a minimum the negative cable from each.

Have a beer (But only one when playing with sparks ) and go play detective :hmm

Awesome info, thank you! I have actually started labeling wiring I have redone. It looks like the stereo has been changed around multiple times, with random crap left behind. There has also been wiring removed. Which brings me to 2 other questions I've been meaning to ask!

1) My ignition switches don't have acc position. I've never had a boat that does. I assume now I should be able to get one that fits my Dana panel that has acc?

2) My engine hatch (or in my case, storage hatch) has a "hood latch" that is disabled. There is a pull handle hidden to pop the hatch, but the hatch is hydraulic. Do most hatch's have a secondary latch, like a hood latch?

Mine is setup with a myriad of limit switches. There's one that stops power from being sent to the hydraulic pump unless the release lever is pulled, and then another that allows power to be sent until the switch is closed. There also another in the ski pole hole that keeps you from opening the hatch with the poke in.

Allllll of that wiring has been removed by a previous owner, I assume because they had issues. So currently the latch is also disabled, and the hatch floats at speeds above about 65, which concerns me. Should I be concerned?

Jeff

 

[Taboma]

Awesome info, thank you! I have actually started labeling wiring I have redone. It looks like the stereo has been changed around multiple times, with random crap left behind. There has also been wiring removed. Which brings me to 2 other questions I've been meaning to ask!

1) My ignition switches don't have acc position. I've never had a boat that does. I assume now I should be able to get one that fits my Dana panel that has acc?

2) My engine hatch (or in my case, storage hatch) has a "hood latch" that is disabled. There is a pull handle hidden to pop the hatch, but the hatch is hydraulic. Do most hatch's have a secondary latch, like a hood latch?

Mine is setup with a myriad of limit switches. There's one that stops power from being sent to the hydraulic pump unless the release lever is pulled, and then another that allows power to be sent until the switch is closed. There also another in the ski pole hole that keeps you from opening the hatch with the poke in.

Allllll of that wiring has been removed by a previous owner, I assume because they had issues. So currently the latch is also disabled, and the hatch floats at speeds above about 65, which concerns me. Should I be concerned?

Jeff

I can say with certainty, I wouldn't want to see my hatch floating at any speed

I can also add with similar certainty when it comes to the marine environment, I like to keep things simple, and a gaggle of limits switches for your hatch is prone to problems, more than likely why they're disconnected. I realize that doesn't solve your problem. I also realize that without them it requires the operator to be more prudent. Personally, I'm OK with that.

Maybe somebody with a similar boat can jump in with some ideas on the hatch, seems like a rather complicated system and made for idiot proof convenience of operation. How much of that you now need is dependent on how many steps and how much thought you want to be tasked with.

As far as the stereo, I'd get it off the Ign. run terminal. I wouldn't swap out the ignition switches. Where to connect then becomes more of a matter of how you use your stereo and how you use your battery switches. As an example, if you're going to sit on a beach or float and play your stereo, then the best option is the addition of a house (3rd) battery dedicated for that purpose.

At a minimum I'd power the stereo off the battery that is currently NOT being used for other aux equipment and lighting. A lot of boat stereos with big amps have a fuse right off the common on one battery switch, some also have the addition of a power relay switched from an aux dash switch, or to an additional Perko ON-OFF switch, This keeps your main power wiring to the amps shorter and many aux switches simply won't carry enough amps.

You're on the right track, but you need to think these operations through, there's a lot of ways to accomplish things, but it all boils down to how you want things to work.