Eliminating my money

[50onRED]

 

[Dcb.blake]

Got the ship-to-shore charger and the batteries wired. I’m using 2/0 Cable and the clamps are supposed to be -6 AN Braided hose but they work great on this cable to keep things tidy. There’s a lot going on when having 4 batteries but it’s looking good considering the tight space.
View attachment 1150381
View attachment 1150383

Now on to the stereo system. One of the mos t important parts is a good circuit breaker.
View attachment 1150380

I also got the valve covers and a few miscellaneous parts back from polishing. My good friend is a polisher and he totally killed these parts!! Can’t wait to see them on the motor.

View attachment 1150382

That turned out super clean! What’s the group size on those bigger batteries? I didn’t know Odyssey rated their batteries like that, pretty impressive. Makes it hard to ever harm the battery with a charge rate like that. I assume the two bigger ones are stereo then smaller two are engine?

 

[50onRED]

That turned out super clean! What’s the group size on those bigger batteries? I didn’t know Odyssey rated their batteries like that, pretty impressive. Makes it hard to ever harm the battery with a charge rate like that. I assume the two bigger ones are stereo then smaller two are engine?

They are group 31
Actually three out of 4 are for the stereo system. The remaining single small one is for the starter.
If this was a fuel injected motor I would use one of the big ones for the starter but the starting amps are very low with this motor so no need for a big boy. These small odysseys are beasts. The big boys are meant for lasting all day while banging the stereo. The system has 4 amps and 12 speakers so it requires lots of power to be able to play all day long.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Got the ship-to-shore charger and the batteries wired. I’m using 2/0 Cable and the clamps are supposed to be -6 AN Braided hose but they work great on this cable to keep things tidy. There’s a lot going on when having 4 batteries but it’s looking good considering the tight space.
View attachment 1150381
View attachment 1150383

Now on to the stereo system. One of the mos t important parts is a good circuit breaker.
View attachment 1150380

I also got the valve covers and a few miscellaneous parts back from polishing. My good friend is a polisher and he totally killed these parts!! Can’t wait to see them on the motor.

View attachment 1150382 Shoot me a text with more pics of the anodes please. I’m going to have to see what i can do on mine now.

 

[50onRED]

No pics were taken but here’s a little update,
•Had to switch a couple fittings on the fuel system because I realized I had the “in” on the fuel filter running the wrong direction. I also replaced both filler necks because the port side neck was leaking into the hull.
•Finished wiring the stereo system and turned it on this morning. So far it sounds good and everything is working as it’s intended. I’ll do a full tune once the boat is on the lake this weekend because I don’t want to piss off my neighbors .
•I put almost the entire interior back in.
• Pulled the center tire off the right side of the trailer after I noticed not 1 but 2 screws in it. It’s flat so I’ll take it and have it replaced today (If you are in OC and need tires/wheels please let me know, I worked in the wheel and tire industry for 10 years and have a great connection.
•Next is to install the drive shower this afternoon
Then begins the long process to polish her to perfection. I’ll be recruiting my 18yo to do that.

-Side note WIRING
If you plan to re wire your project use Welding Cable to power your batteries. 2/0 welding cable is the same size as 1/0 Audio cable and it’s made of copper where as audio cable is often a mix of copper and aluminum. Welding cable is used in the audio industry by professionals. Save yourself the money (unless you need a fancy color) and go to your local Welding Supply shop (if in so cal go to ENCORE GAS & SUPPLY and ask for me Brian and I’ll take care of RDP peeps.

 

[50onRED]

Whelp…. Glad I paid for Tow insurance.
Loud knocking coming from the back of the engine. No holes in the block, no dents in the pan. Haven’t pulled the plugs or drained the oil yet so I’m not sure how bad it is. Could anything in the bell housing between the engine and drive be an issue?

 

[ChrisV]

pull and cut oil filter.

 

[Western Flyer]

Great write up and a beautiful float. Regardless of what you've known and discovered, the homework and time you put in to find it are well worth it.
Being on the tail end of a complete refit of my Hallett, I can empathize with your situation as well as the head shaking at finding shit that just screams hack.
Like you, I'm a wire and plumbing nerd, so I put the cable cutters, sawzall and screwguns to use in cleaning the whole thing out. Leaving just the upholstry that wasn't easily removed exposed more of what amazes me as being accepted in the industry. Building commercial grade fiberglass boats, I'd be out on my ass if I just slapped some gelcoat on bare plywood and called it good.
If I may, when you unscrew or drill for a screw, have a small amount of catalyzed resin on hand and dip the screw into it before screwing it in. It'll seal itself. Most all wood rot is formed this way. If the resin doesn't appeal to you, get a container of Marine Tex and use it instead. The holes in your battery tray would be filled in one pass and it being epoxy, it's not going anywhere, works like body filler and can be painted after the fact.
Look forward to more of your adventure. Best hope that the engine noise is a forgotten Corona bottle in the bilge...

 

[Joe mama]

Bummer on the knocking noise. I’ve had that happen a few times both were busted rocker stud. I ended up just replacing them all. Hopefully not something bad.

 

[boatnam2]

Whelp…. Glad I paid for Tow insurance.
Loud knocking coming from the back of the engine. No holes in the block, no dents in the pan. Haven’t pulled the plugs or drained the oil yet so I’m not sure how bad it is. Could anything in the bell housing between the engine and drive be an issue?
View attachment 1165895

I had that same noise once while warming up boat, thought, well hoped it was a coupler or something. Turned out it dropped a valve seat on a shitty merlin Steel head, expensive day.

 

[Western Flyer]

U joint??

 

[50onRED]

Well after a 2 hour wait and a two hour tow we made it back to pirates. It was now 8pm and I had 4 adults and 3 toddlers who were cold and tired. My truck and trailer were at the riviera marina in Havasu and there were ZERO Uber or lift drivers anywhere. Pirates was closed and we were stranded. Thankfully I called my good friend Chad with DSO SAVED THE DAY! he hauled ass from Havasu and picked up my entire family. We got the family home then he dropped my wife and i off at riviera to pick up my trailer.
We hauled back to pirates and picked up the boat. Now it’s home and will undergo extensive repairs and modifications during the winter.

One for my dead motor-homie…

 

[50onRED]

U joint??

That would be awesome.

 

[gordon]

Very clean work that you have done sorry about the motor

 

[50onRED]

Very clean work that you have done sorry about the motor

Thank you. I guess on the bright side, now the motor will get rebuilt and be as clean as everything else

 

[Jay Dub]

No pics were taken but here’s a little update,
•Had to switch a couple fittings on the fuel system because I realized I had the “in” on the fuel filter running the wrong direction. I also replaced both filler necks because the port side neck was leaking into the hull.
•Finished wiring the stereo system and turned it on this morning. So far it sounds good and everything is working as it’s intended. I’ll do a full tune once the boat is on the lake this weekend because I don’t want to piss off my neighbors .
•I put almost the entire interior back in.
• Pulled the center tire off the right side of the trailer after I noticed not 1 but 2 screws in it. It’s flat so I’ll take it and have it replaced today (If you are in OC and need tires/wheels please let me know, I worked in the wheel and tire industry for 10 years and have a great connection.
•Next is to install the drive shower this afternoon
Then begins the long process to polish her to perfection. I’ll be recruiting my 18yo to do that.

-Side note WIRING
If you plan to re wire your project use Welding Cable to power your batteries. 2/0 welding cable is the same size as 1/0 Audio cable and it’s made of copper where as audio cable is often a mix of copper and aluminum. Welding cable is used in the audio industry by professionals. Save yourself the money (unless you need a fancy color) and go to your local Welding Supply shop (if in so cal go to ENCORE GAS & SUPPLY and ask for me Brian and I’ll take care of RDP peeps.

thank you for sharing all of this. I especially love the wiring. You have some mad skills.

 

[50onRED]

Thank you!

thank you for sharing all of this. I especially love the wiring. You have some mad skills.

 

[50onRED]

Great write up and a beautiful float. Regardless of what you've known and discovered, the homework and time you put in to find it are well worth it.
Being on the tail end of a complete refit of my Hallett, I can empathize with your situation as well as the head shaking at finding shit that just screams hack.
Like you, I'm a wire and plumbing nerd, so I put the cable cutters, sawzall and screwguns to use in cleaning the whole thing out. Leaving just the upholstry that wasn't easily removed exposed more of what amazes me as being accepted in the industry. Building commercial grade fiberglass boats, I'd be out on my ass if I just slapped some gelcoat on bare plywood and called it good.
If I may, when you unscrew or drill for a screw, have a small amount of catalyzed resin on hand and dip the screw into it before screwing it in. It'll seal itself. Most all wood rot is formed this way. If the resin doesn't appeal to you, get a container of Marine Tex and use it instead. The holes in your battery tray would be filled in one pass and it being epoxy, it's not going anywhere, works like body filler and can be painted after the fact.
Look forward to more of your adventure. Best hope that the engine noise is a forgotten Corona bottle in the bilge...

I’ll be pulling all of the interior out and will be replacing all panels that contain rot. That’s a great idea of dipping the screws in resin, I will try that for sure. Interesting enough, much of my interior is made with plastic board which has been awesome and is nearly perfect even after almost 15 years of use. I might replace all of the wood with the plastic panels here this winter

 

[renodaytona]

Sucks that you had a trip end like that.

I'm still chasing my vibration issue in my 25 Daytona. The motor is coming out and complete teardown and rebuild this winter.

 

[wet hull]

Lost my whole summer and just got my motor back. This video describes how I felt

1.1M views · 37K likes | Precision Machine Engine on Instagram

38K likes, 272 comments - precision.machine.engine on October 9, 2022

www.instagram.com

 

[Gelcoater]

I’ll be pulling all of the interior out and will be replacing all panels that contain rot. That’s a great idea of dipping the screws in resin, I will try that for sure. Interesting enough, much of my interior is made with plastic board which has been awesome and is nearly perfect even after almost 15 years of use. I might replace all of the wood with the plastic panels here this winter

That plastic stuff is kinda heavy but don’t rot or splinter.

Are you still bringing it in this winter?

In your photos I saw something and it may be superficial but should be looked at.

On the bright side I see a white based boat and a white bottom. If there’s beach rash on the sponsons or dings in the white it’s much easier to fix (read easier on your wallet) than a black bottom or orange.

I don’t see any silver metallic on the exterior either, a real pain to patch chips or scuffs.= ^$

The transom and bilge bling looks to be the work of Tito, one of the grand gelcoat wizards over at DCB the last decade or more.
Lots of labor went into that!

 

[50onRED]

Lost my whole summer and just got my motor back. This video describes how I felt

1.1M views · 37K likes | Precision Machine Engine on Instagram

38K likes, 272 comments - precision.machine.engine on October 9, 2022

www.instagram.com

Yup that’s about where I’m at right now

 

[50onRED]

That plastic stuff is kinda heavy but don’t rot or splinter.

Are you still bringing it in this winter?

In your photos I saw something and it may be superficial but should be looked at.
View attachment 1166680
View attachment 1166682

On the bright side I see a white based boat and a white bottom. If there’s beach rash on the sponsons or dings in the white it’s much easier to fix (read easier on your wallet) than a black bottom or orange.

I don’t see any silver metallic on the exterior either, a real pain to patch chips or scuffs.= ^$

The transom and bilge bling looks to be the work of Tito, one of the grand gelcoat wizards over at DCB the last decade or more.
Lots of labor went into that!

Yes the bottom is white, and yes it has lots of chipping and rash on the sponsons that need to be repaired. The red and grey are both metallic with metal flake. They aren’t going to be fun to repair for sure. As for that crack it seems
To be superficial and I’m going to have Eliminator take a look at it while it’s there to have a stress crack on the top of the transom repaired.

 

[50onRED]

Whelp today wasn’t fun… took the cover off to find about 300 gallons of water and a lot of mold. The plugs were out but the trailer wasn’t tilted enough to drain. The center sponson plug was totally clogged and didn’t drain at all so my swim locker was totally full. Multiple life jackets and chairs were ruined. The polished aluminum on the engine is ruined. Got the water drained out and almost all the mold cleaned off but needless to say it was a bad day.
Thankfully the motor is coming out to get completely torn down and rebuilt and I had planned to Powdercoat the polished parts anyways. So I’m trying to look on the bright side here.

Anyone deal with mold/mildew and have a good trick to get it off?

 

[ChrisV]

fuck!!!!

 

[Icky]

On my 99, the ski locker didn't have a hole in it to drain to the engine compartment, found that out when I tried washing it one day. Hopefully the sun will clean most of that out.

You can make a pvc pipe frame to go under your cover to keep the centers from filling with water.

 

[50onRED]

On my 99, the ski locker didn't have a hole in it to drain to the engine compartment, found that out when I tried washing it one day. Hopefully the sun will clean most of that out.

You can make a pvc pipe frame to go under your cover to keep the centers from filling with water.

I hand pumped the water out but haven’t peeled inside to see if it has a drain yet.

 

[02HoWaRd26]

Dammit Bryan that sucks. Hopefully it doesn’t end up being something that has to be gone through insurance. Definitely some Magic erasers and sunlight on the vinyl.

 

[50onRED]

Dammit Bryan that sucks. Hopefully it doesn’t end up being something that has to be gone through insurance. Definitely some Magic erasers and sunlight on the vinyl.

That’s the plan. I only need the interior to last 1 more summer. I know the outside and engine will be spot on perfect this year so that’s my focus. Big changes happening very soon

 

[50onRED]

whelp, this is a problem

 

[Havasu Rehab]

Damn… seeing those pics of the interior made me sick to my stomach! I hope everything turns out ok for you.

 

[50onRED]

Took the heads off to make sure the broken rocker didn’t hurt the cylinder. Looks like it’s all in very good shape. Even the pistons have shiny aluminum with just a wipe of the carbon. The head gaskets looked good and the lifters and pushrods are perfect.
Next up is to pull the block and gap the rings for boost. Then it’ll go back together with a few additional parts. Screw blower here we GO!
This factory wiring is a joke and I will never put the boat in the water again until it’s perfect and gorgeous. I’ll be adding some billet, and some powder coat and lots of new hoses and fittings. Stay tuned because things escalated today….

 

[Wave Hi]

That sucks , but on the bright side you seem like you will make it look even better than before, good luck man . Oh and yours is one of my favorite all time boats...

 

[Dcb.blake]

Good to hear about the motor. Stuff starts escalating quickly with those sadly . Keep the wiring job posted, curious to see how you do things

 

[Dcb.blake]

Mine looked fine and clean until I got to the back of the motor, which yours looks like the same scenario

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Screw blower…… now you’re talking my language! Any other details you want to share?

 

[50onRED]

That sucks , but on the bright side you seem like you will make it look even better than before, good luck man . Oh and yours is one of my favorite all time boats...

Thanks man! I dreamt of the 27 Daytona for many many years. Now that I got one I’m going to make it the best it can be.

 

[50onRED]

Good to hear about the motor. Stuff starts escalating quickly with those sadly . Keep the wiring job posted, curious to see how you do things

Will do, the wiring will be next level for sure.

 

[50onRED]

Mine looked fine and clean until I got to the back of the motor, which yours looks like the same scenario

It looks to me like it was rigged for multiple options back in the day. Mine is carbureted so all of the old EFI wiring is coming out. Also all of the sending units are in the wrong spots so I’ll be installing new units and I take great pride in my ability to hide wiring and making the exposed wiring look good so that’s my plan.

 

[50onRED]

Screw blower…… now you’re talking my language! Any other details you want to share?

It’s staying carbureted but I got an 8.3l Whipple and intercooler because I want to keep it under the existing hatch/scoop. So the Whipple, and a pair of QFT 950s

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Awesome thread man! Hope to see you get back on the water soon!

 

[MPHSystems]

trailer with ZERO brake fluid,

Wait, so there’s supposed to be break fluid in trailer breaks? Are you sure about that? I’ve never seen such a thing.


As far as boat stereo wiring…. It’s a pandemic

A small rant about electronics installation in marine equipment.

As noted in a recent thread, I’m new here but in the last few month I have re-wired, some of my boat, My trailer and just this weekend, the stereo. I am at a complete loss over the abundance of tomfuckery saturating aftermarket marine related wiring installations. I’m not even going to bring...

www.riverdavesplace.com

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Wait, so there’s supposed to be break fluid in trailer breaks? Are you sure about that? I’ve never seen such a thing.


As far as boat stereo wiring…. It’s a pandemic

A small rant about electronics installation in marine equipment.

As noted in a recent thread, I’m new here but in the last few month I have re-wired, some of my boat, My trailer and just this weekend, the stereo. I am at a complete loss over the abundance of tomfuckery saturating aftermarket marine related wiring installations. I’m not even going to bring...

www.riverdavesplace.com

My trailer brakes are equipped with a tattle tale. When the trailer slams my truck i know the brakes are engaged and when it yanks the truck they are disengaged.

 

[50onRED]

Wait, so there’s supposed to be break fluid in trailer breaks? Are you sure about that? I’ve never seen such a thing.


As far as boat stereo wiring…. It’s a pandemic

A small rant about electronics installation in marine equipment.

As noted in a recent thread, I’m new here but in the last few month I have re-wired, some of my boat, My trailer and just this weekend, the stereo. I am at a complete loss over the abundance of tomfuckery saturating aftermarket marine related wiring installations. I’m not even going to bring...

www.riverdavesplace.com

Depends on the type of Brakes. My trailer has “surge” brakes which need fluid just like a normal car master cylinder. The master cylinder is inside the trailer tongue and there’s a plunger inside the tongue that depresses on the ball when you stop which pushes fluid into the calipers. Electric trailer brakes do not use fluid…. Because electric

 

[50onRED]

Awesome thread man! Hope to see you get back on the water soon!

Getting there. Rebuilding the heads now. I’ll post some pics as I go through them. New Inconel valves, new valve seals, new ARP studs and new comp girdles.

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Depends on the type of Brakes. My trailer has “surge” brakes which need fluid just like a normal car master cylinder. The master cylinder is inside the trailer tongue and there’s a plunger inside the tongue that depresses on the ball when you stop which pushes fluid into the calipers. Electric trailer brakes do not use fluid…. Because electric

Have you seen the electric over hydraulic? Theyre pretty awesome. Uses your existing brake lines, the master cylinder is electric and runs off your brake controller like an RV trailer. They have them for drum and disc setup's.

 

[J.P.]

Looking forward to seeing it with the new Whipple, following.

 

[Nanu/Nanu]

Just curious what or whos oil cooler is that? The shiny one to the right of the motor as were looking at the motor in the photos. Not sure if you have multiple.

 

[50onRED]

Have you seen the electric over hydraulic? Theyre pretty awesome. Uses your existing brake lines, the master cylinder is electric and runs off your brake controller like an RV trailer. They have them for drum and disc setup's.

I’ve heard of them but never actually seen or used them. Technology is awesome!

 

[50onRED]

Just curious what or whos oil cooler is that? The shiny one to the right of the motor as were looking at the motor in the photos. Not sure if you have multiple.

Honestly I’m not sure who made it. From the looks of it it’s polished stainless. Works great. I’ll be re plumbing it during this project so I’ll shoot more pictures while that’s happening.