WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Engineer? Drawings? Permit? Get outta the way

rrrr

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Today my front and back patio areas are being replaced. They had been chopped up so much by the foundation pier work it made more sense to do that than patch the affected area.

The city is supposed to oversee this type of minor work, but they don't bother. They have bigger fish to fry. I specified the material and workmanship requirements, and have been observing the process. It's all being done in an acceptable manner, and there isn't the expense and headache of using the "right" way to do it. Hell, it's a flat slab.

And the weather is nice today.

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BoatCop

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My only comment would be about footings. I'd always recommend them on any slab project. It doesn't add that much to the cost, and you never know if you're going to want to close it in, down the road.
 

DRYHEAT

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Are those guys using OSHA approved wheel barrels?πŸ™„
And where are their KN 95 COVID-19 approved masks. πŸ˜‚
 

WYRD

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Why doesn't the slab run all the way over to the house?
 

rrrr

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Why doesn't the slab run all the way over to the house?
It provides an area for drip irrigation of the foundation. It's pretty much a requirement for the expansive clay soil we have. If the moisture content is allowed wide swings, e. g. during summertime dry heat, the shrinkage can remove support and result in damage to doors and walls.

We just had piers put in to ameliorate that issue, and I have to do a better job of monitoring the situation.
 

WYRD

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It provides an area for drip irrigation of the foundation. It's pretty much a requirement for the expansive clay soil we have. If the moisture content is allowed wide swings, e. g. during summertime dry heat, the shrinkage can remove support and result in damage to doors and walls.

We just had piers put in to ameliorate that issue, and I have to do a better job of monitoring the situation.
Make sense you just going to fill it with like a decorative gravel
 

HNL2LHC

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Doesn’t look like you have enough spacing between the dirt and rebar. You should put some dobies there and then you have the....:looking:

There it is done...the flood gates are open.





J/K. Looks great!!!
 

snowhammer

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It provides an area for drip irrigation of the foundation. It's pretty much a requirement for the expansive clay soil we have. If the moisture content is allowed wide swings, e. g. during summertime dry heat, the shrinkage can remove support and result in damage to doors and walls.

We just had piers put in to ameliorate that issue, and I have to do a better job of monitoring the situation.
Thanks for "ameliorate", so felicitous.
 

Bobby V

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Doesn’t look like you have enough spacing between the dirt and rebar. You should put some dobies there and then you have the....:looking:

There it is done...the flood gates are open.
J/K. Looks great!!!
Loos like the guy in the 1st pic is pulling up the rebar as they go. πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ That's how they did it when I had my driveway poured.
 

TimeBandit

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Loos like the guy in the 1st pic is pulling up the rebar as they go. πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ That's how they did it when I had my driveway poured.
And the rebar will sink just as fast, plus they usually step on it as they walk around. elevated on dobies (concrete bricks with wires to secure to the rebar) is the only way to get the rebar in the center of the slab, where it will do some good. I learned the hard way, I have a nice hand stamped driveway full of cracks because they "pulled it up" as they poured.
 

Bobby V

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And the rebar will sink just as fast, plus they usually step on it as they walk around. elevated on dobies (concrete bricks with wires to secure to the rebar) is the only way to get the rebar in the center of the slab, where it will do some good. I learned the hard way, I have a nice hand stamped driveway full of cracks because they "pulled it up" as they poured.
That’s sucks. My driveway is over 20 years old with no cracks by the guys pulling up the rebar. Guess my guys knew what they were doing..:p
 

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Where is the plastic sheeting on the walls and windows to prevent concrete splatter from making contact?
 

rrrr

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Where is the plastic sheeting on the walls and windows to prevent concrete splatter from making contact?
Small area, hanging of a barrier not needed. The splatter was rinsed off as required, plus the concrete was a medium slump mix poured from a wheelbarrow, not slush dropped three feet from a truck chute

I would have taken a detail shot of the rebar joint tying method to satisfy some of the crowd, but I'm trying to get three pages out of this thread.
 
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JUSTWANNARACE

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We get 85% compaction with a 1550 wacker and 97-98% with a roller
At the time of inspection! Do a compaction test after a day or so of it setting. I hope your doing concrete over the top and not asphalt. But then a again that's why you Californians pay so much road tax🀣
 

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And crushed concrete doesnt compact worth a fuk!

Makes sense now why California roads suck🀣
Depends on the aggregate. If its river rock then compaction will be challenging. If its crushed rock it will compact. I've had to use the bobcat with a jack hammer on a couple jobs to loosen up base.
 

Blue

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Gonna need to know psi, slump etc. Did you know RDP also provides virtual multi state permitting, inspection and certifications?? All part of being a real estate Mogul
 

NicPaus

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I added onto my driveway years ago. As a temporary parking spot. 4" base with my 710 lb plate compactor and 1 1/2" concrete so I can remove it easily. Still good and I park my 12000 lb work trucks on it. Few cracks but better than I expected. One of these days I will tear it out and develop the property.
 

4Waters

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At the time of inspection! Do a compaction test after a day or so of it setting. I hope your doing concrete over the top and not asphalt. But then a again that's why you Californians pay so much road tax🀣
Yes concrete streets and gutters are 8" of base 8" of concrete, handicap ramps and sidewalks are 4" of base 3.5" of concrete
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Depends on the aggregate. If its river rock then compaction will be challenging. If its crushed rock it will compact. I've had to use the bobcat with a jack hammer on a couple jobs to loosen up base.
We cant even use river rock for structure shit here. It has to be crushed quarry rock.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Yes concrete streets and gutters are 8" of base 8" of concrete, handicap ramps and sidewalks are 4" of base 3.5" of concrete
They are "updating" all of the handicapped accesses and crosswalks in my area right now. I cant believe the shit they are having to do to be current. Its absolutely crazy!
 

NicPaus

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They are "updating" all of the handicapped accesses and crosswalks in my area right now. I cant believe the shit they are having to do to be current. Its absolutely crazy!
Doing my street as well. No steel. Just city mix. No compaction or base either. Same way they did my sidewalk 2 years ago. No cracks.
 

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Yes concrete streets and gutters are 8" of base 8" of concrete, handicap ramps and sidewalks are 4" of base 3.5" of concrete
Is the inspector that uses a 4' level and ruler instead of a smart level still around?
 

4Waters

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They are "updating" all of the handicapped accesses and crosswalks in my area right now. I cant believe the shit they are having to do to be current. Its absolutely crazy!
It's a pain in the ass, makes you want to drink. Here's plans of a couple ramps we did with the key.

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And let me guess 16" curbs, with 9" base tapered to a 6" top?
Testing my memory here. 16" tall curb with a 1-1/2" to 12" batter? 6" top with a 1/4" batter towards street with a 3/4" outside edge and a 1/4" inside edge so the high heels the lady or gentleman are wearing don't break in the joint and causing injury?
 

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They are doing the shit here to survive a bombing🀣
I did a handicap ramp in Chatsworth on De Soto and Prairie St. It had a footing, stem wall, and stairs loaded with #4 grade 60 rebar 12"oc and called for the ramps to have #4 grade 60 rebar 16"oc. I misread my 8.5 X 11 plan and made the rebar mat in the ramp 12"oc. The handicap spots, 4" big rock mix with no reinforcement.
 

4Waters

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I did a handicap ramp in Chatsworth on De Soto and Prairie St. It had a footing, stem wall, and stairs loaded with #4 grade 60 rebar 12"oc and called for the ramps to have #4 grade 60 rebar 16"oc. I misread my 8.5 X 11 plan and made the rebar mat in the ramp 12"oc. The handicap spots, 4" big rock mix with no reinforcement.
I work for LA City, those plans I posted are drawn up by City engineers.

Our engineers also drew up these plans, we gave them 4 opportunities to see it wasn't going to work, the last being the day before the pour, this was some homeowners driveway approach that was now 35%, we tore it out and redid it and it's now 12%.
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How long ago did you do the ramp at DeSoto and Prairie? I'll have to drive by on my way home. We rarely use steel.
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