Escalade/Denali question

[Snprhed]

I have an 2006 Escalade 6L. I just moved to Vegas and pulled the boat out last saturday. So the heat out here is pretty intense and my Escalade is not liking pulling the boat in it. It has gotten almost to the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge and it freaked me out a little bit. I have talked to several mechanics shops, ended up replacing the thermostat (did nothing). Yesterday I talked to a shop that came with a good recommendation. They said these trucks are really just not meant to be a towing machine. They are fairly capable, however at 110, with the A/C on pulling up a hill that it is going to warm up pretty good. He said just keep it out of the red.

As soon as I top the hill it comes down. Even just setting and idling it isnt running hot. I think he is probably right, just looking for input.

 

[the510]

how much does your boat/trailer weigh? how fast to you travel while towing?

 

[BHC Vic]

My 02 silverado 1500 hd sucks at towing. Not very much power and heats up every hill. I'm going to try fan clutch but other than that i got nothing. We got a 5.7 hemi in my wife's Cherokee im sure that will pull it

 

[2FORCEFULL]

I have an 2006 Escalade 6L. I just moved to Vegas and pulled the boat out last saturday. So the heat out here is pretty intense and my Escalade is not liking pulling the boat in it. It has gotten almost to the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge and it freaked me out a little bit. I have talked to several mechanics shops, ended up replacing the thermostat (did nothing). Yesterday I talked to a shop that came with a good recommendation. They said these trucks are really just not meant to be a towing machine. They are fairly capable, however at 110, with the A/C on pulling up a hill that it is going to warm up pretty good. He said just keep it out of the red.

As soon as I top the hill it comes down. Even just setting and idling it isnt running hot. I think he is probably right, just looking for input.

make sure you are in tow mode.... if pulling a hill and it drop down a gear..hold it in that gear...don't let it shift up and down..

you need to make sure your fan clutch is kicking in.... I've never had a heat problem towing with a 6.0

 

[2FORCEFULL]

My 02 silverado 1500 hd sucks at towing. Not very much power and heats up every hill. I'm going to try fan clutch but other than that i got nothing. We got a 5.7 hemi in my wife's Cherokee im sure that will pull it

do you know how to use a towel to check the clutch.... can you hear it when it kicks in???only use a dealer clutch... the rest are junk IMO

 

[BHC Vic]

You are correct on after market being junk dealed w that in my old dodge. Have no idea how to test it. I think someone said spin or something I don't remember. I don't know of I've ever really listened for it I guess i should pay more attention. It was the first time using that truck and maybe its last lol

 

[2FORCEFULL]

You are correct on after market being junk dealed w that in my old dodge. Have no idea how to test it. I think someone said spin or something I don't remember. I don't know of I've ever really listened for it I guess i should pay more attention. It was the first time using that truck and maybe its last lol

easy after you see it done... you roll a towel up. after the truck is hot, try to stop the fan... if you stop it ,its bad.... kinda tricky to do if you don't watch it done though

 

[BHC Vic]

easy after you see it done... you roll a towel up. after the truck is hot, try to stop the fan... if you stop it ,its bad.... kinda tricky to do if you don't watch it done though

That's what it was! try and stop it while spinning lol didn't wanna sound dumb though. They left out the towel part though [emoji35]

 

[2FORCEFULL]

That's what it was! try and stop it while spinning lol didn't wanna sound dumb though. They left out the towel part though [emoji35]

lol... you'd have a hard time posting if the clutch turned out to be good...

 

[pronstar]

IMHO it's not overheating, so just keep an eye on it. I would only worry if it actually overheated.

 

[AzGeo]

just stick your face into the turning fan, dumbass. I can't believe anyone put up a post with instructions to "stop the fan with a towel" while the engine is running. Some have electric fans and you could still get caught up in the 'turning belt system'. BUT, checking an engine driven fan clutch while the engine is running "raises the bar on internet advise". I would equate this gem of wisdom to "throwing a beach towel into the bilge of a flatbottom". Thanks for the 'tip'.

 

[BHC Vic]

IMHO it's not overheating, so just keep an eye on it. I would only worry if it actually overheated.

Although my truck never hit the red my service engine soon came up on the message light. I got home unhooked the trailer and it turned off. Weird

 

[rivermobster]

If It ain't broke, don't fix it.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

just stick your face into the turning fan, dumbass. I can't believe anyone put up a post with instructions to "stop the fan with a towel" while the engine is running. Some have electric fans and you could still get caught up in the 'turning belt system'. BUT, checking an engine driven fan clutch while the engine is running "raises the bar on internet advise". I would equate this gem of wisdom to "throwing a beach towel into the bilge of a flatbottom". Thanks for the 'tip'.

now we know how much you know about cars and drivability.... next....lol

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Although my truck never hit the red my service engine soon came up on the message light. I got home unhooked the trailer and it turned off. Weird

do you tow in over drive??? sometime in the extreme heat you need to just slow down a bit...sure there is a lot more to it than to just post an answer... but maybe a little more info will figure it out...

if you are coming out of hemming way going to boulder at 5pm..120 degrees... that slow tug to the 95 turn kinda pre heats the situation... sometime you need to turn the ac off...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Although my truck never hit the red my service engine soon came up on the message light. I got home unhooked the trailer and it turned off. Weird

not because I own a muffler shop...but,, you might have cats going bad,,,

 

[BHC Vic]

I was turning the ac off for every climb. I did push the tow/haul button but I wasn't by any means taking an easy on the truck. If anything I was hammering it to keep my momentum going. It's a brand new engine in that truck maybe 7000 miles I figured the 6.0 would have a little more but eh

 

[BHC Vic]

not because I own a muffler shop...but,, you might have cats going bad,,,

This could b true???? I'm not going to lie I don't know much about trucks and engines

 

[DRYHEAT]

now we know how much you know about cars and drivability.... next....lol

Steve, maybe you can post a video and show us how it's done, it might be educational to see how the pros do it. [emoji1]

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Steve, maybe you can post a video and show us how it's done, it might be educational to see how the pros do it. [emoji1]

ok, but I have to finish my how to make a women have multible orgasms video first

 

[AzGeo]

now we know how much you know about cars and drivability.... next....lol

That misinformed, rude comment came from the "LAM" guy. You sir have no idea what your big mouth just opened up. LOL YOURSELF BITCH ! I DID NOT NAME YOU, (stupid net respect on my part) but since you seem to think you want to match mechanical/safety knowledge with me, START NOW ! (don't quote states smog laws, I don't care) Everything else is on the table, you big mouthed XXXXXXXX. You should put down your beer and look back over the past few years of my posts, it may enlighten you. I never claimed to be smarter, but I do work longer and harder to learn more and better methods. You may be a 'local social hero', but telling people on the net to "use a towel on a turning engine fan" really tells everyone (or maybe just me ?) just how deeply your thought processes go with respect to mechanical dynamics and the human condition. If it was Jack Daniels that got ahold of your keyboard and posted that insult, then I will be happy to call Wayne to give you a 'safe ride' home. If I am in error as to your 'party condition', please refer back to the beginning of my post.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

just stick your face into the turning fan, dumbass. I can't believe anyone put up a post with instructions to "stop the fan with a towel" while the engine is running. Some have electric fans and you could still get caught up in the 'turning belt system'. BUT, checking an engine driven fan clutch while the engine is running "raises the bar on internet advise". I would equate this gem of wisdom to "throwing a beach towel into the bilge of a flatbottom". Thanks for the 'tip'.

guess I miss read the post...I still don't understand what you are try'n to say....there are many tricks of the trade that aren't too safe for the GP....

like I said... probley should see it done before try'n.... first time I seen it was on my 76 olds cutlass.... I was at the dealer with a ac problem...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/121282-fan-clutch.html

 

[2FORCEFULL]

got this off google.... never though of using a hose...


A mechanic told me this trick. Get an old radiator hose (I used a rolled up towel). Start your car. Let it warm up. At idle, stick the hose gently into the fan. If it stops easily, it's bad. BE CAREFUL if you ty this.
Mine stopped VERY EASILY & took about 30 seconds to come back up to speed. I put a new one on (4 bolts) and my problem is solved (temp was creeping up when I stopped at 3 or 4 red lights in a row).

 

[pronstar]

Although my truck never hit the red my service engine soon came up on the message light. I got home unhooked the trailer and it turned off. Weird

Stop guessing and pull the code LOL
If it triggered a CEL then it should store a code.

Don't be afraid to rev the piss out of a small gas engine. It ain't a diesel, the only way it makes power is to rev. That's what it's designed to do.

 

[BHC Vic]

I don't really know a good mechanic sounds like it could get expensive

 

[AzGeo]

He's considered a PROFESSIONAL ? ! ? An operational 'viscous fan clutch' drags when cold. A bad one won't have much resistance hot or cold, but I just had to 'jump in' when I read 'oh just do this' to use anything to check an engine driven fan clutch while it's running. You can check it when hot by SHUTTING THE ENGINE OFF, and testing the resistance with your hand. The hot air flowing across the hub either makes it engage or not. If the engine is REALLY HOT or close to overheating, stop it and turn the fan by hand. Every time I jump in and do this, (and often get attacked) I'm not looking for a fight, I want to read about 'positive results', not 'ER visits'.

 

[Crazyhippy]

I've seen this "stop the fan" test done with a welding glove, a broomstick (may have been a 1" dowel, was only about 3' long), and fan belt cut in half (super sketchy, do NOT use this approach)

If you don't feel safe doing it, don't. Let the mechanic risk his fingers instead.

The broomstick was the best approach that I've witnessed, the radiator hose sounds like a good option too.

 

[AzGeo]

An old mechanic showed me how to test a fan clutch. Get the engine up to running temp at idle, stick a 2 X 4 into the turning fan blades. I can't tell you what to look for because when the old guy stuck the board/hose/towel into the blades, it shot right back out into his face. Without a single word he died two days later. HA HA PLEASE rethink your sources before giving advise around here.

 

[AzGeo]

I've seen this "stop the fan" test done with a welding glove, a broomstick (may have been a 1" dowel, was only about 3' long), and fan belt cut in half (super sketchy, do NOT use this approach)

If you don't feel safe doing it, don't. Let the mechanic risk his fingers instead.

The broomstick was the best approach that I've witnessed, the radiator hose sounds like a good option too.

I guess I'm not making any friends when I persist with my point. To think that self proclaimed "friends, advisors, mechanical minded, boat guys, mechanics, and rocket surgeons" would consider any kind of test like these 'engine driven fan tests', shows that I need to shut up and watch who gets hurt next. "I don't feel safe READING about it". Note to self: these same people give boating tips on this site.

 

[rrrr]

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/121282-fan-clutch.html

That's a great link...here's an interesting post in the thread:

* #18 *
04-22-2005, 12:44 PM
hudsmore
Registered User
*
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 24
I have to chirp in here about the suggestion one stick a towel or rubber hose in the fan while it is turning. I am a paramedic and attended to an incident a number of years ago where a mechanic was doing exactly that. I piece of the fan broke loose and struck him in the neck, taking out the carotid artery, internal and external jugulars. Needless to say, such an injury is not compatible with life. He bled out almost instantly.

The idea of heating the car up and shutting it down and testing if the fan has stiffened up seems way more sensible.

Play safe everyone

Sounds like a stupid idea to me...

 

[2FORCEFULL]

That's a great link...here's an interesting post in the thread:



Sounds like a stupid idea to me...

if the fan blade came off rubbing against a towel.... it was coming off any way...
might as well add about the guy that the car slipped off the jack stand..or the car that popped into gear...
or the throttle that stuck..............

 

[2FORCEFULL]

when its your time its just that.... I knocked a headlight out with my eye...... I'm still here...

 

[Carlson-jet]

I have an 2006 Escalade 6L. I just moved to Vegas and pulled the boat out last saturday. So the heat out here is pretty intense and my Escalade is not liking pulling the boat in it. It has gotten almost to the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge and it freaked me out a little bit. I have talked to several mechanics shops, ended up replacing the thermostat (did nothing). Yesterday I talked to a shop that came with a good recommendation. They said these trucks are really just not meant to be a towing machine. They are fairly capable, however at 110, with the A/C on pulling up a hill that it is going to warm up pretty good. He said just keep it out of the red.

As soon as I top the hill it comes down. Even just setting and idling it isnt running hot. I think he is probably right, just looking for input.

Your shit is full of bugs/ debris.

Junk that DENSO piece of shit plastic tanked radiator and get an ALL ALUMINUM aftermarket version. Clean the debris blocking the condenser core. Get an external oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler if it plugs into the the radiator tanks as well. (I don't know the system in use but I know heat exchangers fairly well). At 120 deg. ambient, the road temp is well above that and you are out of range for heat exchange. An all in one heat exchanger has saved companies millions and cost consumer triple that at minimal.

That or just drive at night after cleaning the bugs from the condenser.

 

[2FORCEFULL]

Your shit is full of bugs/ debris.

Junk that DENSO piece of shit plastic tanked radiator and get an ALL ALUMINUM aftermarket version. Clean the debris blocking the condenser core. Get an external oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler if it plugs into the the radiator tanks as well. (I don't know the system in use but I know heat exchangers fairly well). At 120 deg. ambient, the road temp is well above that and you are out of range for heat exchange. An all in one heat exchanger has saved companies millions and cost consumer triple that at minimal.

That or just drive at night after cleaning the bugs from the condenser.

good post.... I did just that to my 96 and 2000 I just bought....


I was thinking of putting a 2000 condenser on the 96..... seems that's was why the air blows colder..... or mabe they put bigger evap?????

 

[hav19]

Your shit is full of bugs/ debris.

Junk that DENSO piece of shit plastic tanked radiator and get an ALL ALUMINUM aftermarket version. Clean the debris blocking the condenser core. Get an external oil cooler, transmission cooler and power steering cooler if it plugs into the the radiator tanks as well. (I don't know the system in use but I know heat exchangers fairly well). At 120 deg. ambient, the road temp is well above that and you are out of range for heat exchange. An all in one heat exchanger has saved companies millions and cost consumer triple that at minimal.

That or just drive at night after cleaning the bugs from the condenser.

This could be your issue, but keep this in mind a radiator cap not holding the proper pressure (blowing off early - even as little as 2lbs) can cause running hot issues, plus if the radiator is plugged or has limited flow in the middle section, the fan clutch will not lock up properly because it is not being feed the proper hot air information, which basically tells it to lock up...but, what do I know, I've been known to use a Radiator hose to check fan clutch operation.....

 

[Carlson-jet]

good post.... I did just that to my 96 and 2000 I just bought....


I was thinking of putting a 2000 condenser on the 96..... seems that's was why the air blows colder..... or mabe they put bigger evap?????

Condensers are hit or miss in the manufacturing process. They do not check their flow capacity but only for leaks. 2 condensers made one right after the other will not flow the same or have the same amount of leakage. They all leak as the aluminum tubes are very thin and there are many joints to the header tubes and fittings. Blocked tubes due to the cladding on the material or in the turbulators can cause serious inefficiencies in any given core. Turbulators are long w shaped inserts that go inside the tubes to cause turbulation and help to dissipate the heat.

One year core over another is not the cure unless there is a new design. I hope the way I wrote this this is understandable.

 

[AzGeo]

Condensers are hit or miss in the manufacturing process. They do not check their flow capacity but only for leaks. 2 condensers made one right after the other will not flow the same or have the same amount of leakage. They all leak as the aluminum tubes are very thin and there are many joints to the header tubes and fittings. Blocked tubes due to the cladding on the material or in the turbulators can cause serious inefficiencies in any given core. Turbulators are long w shaped inserts that go inside the tubes to cause turbulation and help to dissipate the heat.

One year core over another is not the cure unless there is a new design. I hope the way I wrote this this is understandable.

I had my 1995 1500 350 Suburban A/C system repaired at a shop in Havasu that came "highly recommended around here". I took it in and was quoted $1400.00! to fix the A/C on a $2400.00 car. River Dave's Place says this is the best, so I do it. Three weeks of going around and around, the A/C was not cold at any motor RPM, and the car overheated at all speeds after I had this work done. After the 'special repeat work' the car would not run without the fan clutch being engaged, and it always overheated above 50 MPH even without the A/C on. I took it back 4 times and 'expert shop' told me it was all to spec'. I kept this old car BECAUSE it ran smooth, cool, and trouble free. It had never overheated in the 17 years I had owned it, until now. I investigated the 'new parts used' to do the repairs and found the condenser was not allowing air to the radiator and it was therefore not condensing. I ordered a new GM condenser, had it replaced (paid a different shop) and the car went back to it's old performance. The aftermarket compressor that was part of the repair is still not up to GM specs, and I'll wait until it shits, then go back to GM parts. Expert shop, brand name replacement parts, un usable vehicle, expert shop had no clue as to problem, and didn't want to find one. Brand name 'replacement part' totally out of factory spec, lots of finger pointing. I ordered a new GM condenser, paid a shop to install it, car has NO OVERHEATING PROBLEM now. (I tow boats with it again) Aftermarket compressor is low on pressure by about 15% under 2500 RPMs and 10% low, over 2500 RPMs, so I'm not as cool as I should be. I have the factory GM books, the great shop tied to BS me as to performance, but I can read. (that's why I have the books) If you are going to pay for any repairs, find out what is being done and the parts used before the work is completed, the repairs could be 'running' or they could be 'factory correct', it's up to your own investigation of the parts and labor. I've got almost $1900.00 in A/C repairs that have an 80% performance return. This local 'expert' may know many other vehicles really well, but he did nothing but BS me along, while I had the GM books to look at. His choice to use 'low quality aftermarket parts', while charging MORE THAN FULL RETAIL PRICES, and then arguing about performance shows me that he only wanted me as a customer ONE TIME, and he is correct.

 

[BHC Vic]

Hey I just had some ac modular something rather replaced... I now have to put it on defrost for my ac to run... Guess they weren't experts either

 

[BHC Vic]

Put 35's on it and now it doesn't turn... Now that I think about it that truck is a fuggin headache

 

[BajaMike]

I have an 2006 Escalade 6L. I just moved to Vegas and pulled the boat out last saturday. So the heat out here is pretty intense and my Escalade is not liking pulling the boat in it. It has gotten almost to the 3/4 mark on the temp gauge and it freaked me out a little bit. I have talked to several mechanics shops, ended up replacing the thermostat (did nothing). Yesterday I talked to a shop that came with a good recommendation. They said these trucks are really just not meant to be a towing machine. They are fairly capable, however at 110, with the A/C on pulling up a hill that it is going to warm up pretty good. He said just keep it out of the red.

As soon as I top the hill it comes down. Even just setting and idling it isnt running hot. I think he is probably right, just looking for input.

It's all about the rear end axle ratio. I have a 2500 HD crew cab with the 6.0 and I can tow anything anywhere.....never gets hot and you hardly know you have a boat behind you.....but it has 4.10 rear end. The manufacturers are putting higher rear ends (lower number) like 3.73 or 3.30, supposed to get better gas mileage but they suck for towing. 4.10 rear end is the best!!

Make sure you never tow in overdrive and put it in 2nd gear going up hills.

 

[BajaMike]

Put 35's on it and now it doesn't turn... Now that I think about it that truck is a fuggin headache

"35s" make everything worse.....especially towing........

 

[BHC Vic]

"35s" make everything worse.....especially towing........

I was thinking of re gearing but my turning radius is so bad if rather just go to 33's or 32's

 

[TBI]

I had my 1995 1500 350 Suburban A/C system repaired at a shop in Havasu that came "highly recommended around here". I took it in and was quoted $1400.00! to fix the A/C on a $2400.00 car. River Dave's Place says this is the best, so I do it. Three weeks of going around and around, the A/C was not cold at any motor RPM, and the car overheated at all speeds after I had this work done. After the 'special repeat work' the car would not run without the fan clutch being engaged, and it always overheated above 50 MPH even without the A/C on. I took it back 4 times and 'expert shop' told me it was all to spec'. I kept this old car BECAUSE it ran smooth, cool, and trouble free. It had never overheated in the 17 years I had owned it, until now. I investigated the 'new parts used' to do the repairs and found the condenser was not allowing air to the radiator and it was therefore not condensing. I ordered a new GM condenser, had it replaced (paid a different shop) and the car went back to it's old performance. The aftermarket compressor that was part of the repair is still not up to GM specs, and I'll wait until it shits, then go back to GM parts. Expert shop, brand name replacement parts, un usable vehicle, expert shop had no clue as to problem, and didn't want to find one. Brand name 'replacement part' totally out of factory spec, lots of finger pointing. I ordered a new GM condenser, paid a shop to install it, car has NO OVERHEATING PROBLEM now. (I tow boats with it again) Aftermarket compressor is low on pressure by about 15% under 2500 RPMs and 10% low, over 2500 RPMs, so I'm not as cool as I should be. I have the factory GM books, the great shop tied to BS me as to performance, but I can read. (that's why I have the books) If you are going to pay for any repairs, find out what is being done and the parts used before the work is completed, the repairs could be 'running' or they could be 'factory correct', it's up to your own investigation of the parts and labor. I've got almost $1900.00 in A/C repairs that have an 80% performance return. This local 'expert' may know many other vehicles really well, but he did nothing but BS me along, while I had the GM books to look at. His choice to use 'low quality aftermarket parts', while charging MORE THAN FULL RETAIL PRICES, and then arguing about performance shows me that he only wanted me as a customer ONE TIME, and he is correct.

You mad bro?

 

[BHC Vic]

"35s" make everything worse.....especially towing........

Would u recommend re gearing even w 33's or 32's of that's the case I'll just re gear and deal w bad turning radius because 35's look cool [emoji41][emoji108][emoji106]

 

[rivermobster]

You mad bro?

Doncha just love Sunday morning funnies? [emoji106]

 

[2FORCEFULL]

so heres what I will advise to all that read this.......do not open your hood with the engine running......so many different things could go wrong and even cause death....:drink

 

[Motor Boater]

The 6.0 is a great motor. In fact I think its a monster as far as gas engines go. My buddy had a Denali that he put over a 100k on towing a big heavy 25 Malibu. We would load that thing down for our lake Powell trips and that thing flat kicked ass going up all the hills from Phoenix to flagstaff. You've definitely got something wrong. This truck never overheated towing around Phoenix or up the last few hills into page at 100 + degrees.

 

[Sold Honda bought Hondo]

That misinformed, rude comment came from the "LAM" guy. You sir have no idea what your big mouth just opened up. LOL YOURSELF BITCH ! I DID NOT NAME YOU, (stupid net respect on my part) but since you seem to think you want to match mechanical/safety knowledge with me, START NOW ! (don't quote states smog laws, I don't care) Everything else is on the table, you big mouthed XXXXXXXX. You should put down your beer and look back over the past few years of my posts, it may enlighten you. I never claimed to be smarter, but I do work longer and harder to learn more and better methods. You may be a 'local social hero', but telling people on the net to "use a towel on a turning engine fan" really tells everyone (or maybe just me ?) just how deeply your thought processes go with respect to mechanical dynamics and the human condition. If it was Jack Daniels that got ahold of your keyboard and posted that insult, then I will be happy to call Wayne to give you a 'safe ride' home. If I am in error as to your 'party condition', please refer back to the beginning of my post.

Now calm down George..lol....even though you are right. Fan clutch is intended to slip a certain % and the ones with the wound coil in the front are designed to slip and then lock up when the air passing through the radiator reaches a certain temp. I have seen clutches lock up and shoving a towel or anything else into one would be hazardous to your health. What happens if the vehicle owner doesn't realize that the dumshit he bought the truck off of thought and aftermarket fan without a clutch was the cool guy thing to do?

If i remember correctly the proper check for fan clutch is a visual inspection for leakage around the shaft and manual rotation with engine off, fan should not freewheel.
As for the Escalade, it sounds like it doesn't have HD tow package that would include the MO HO type fan clutch and possibly a different fan. Bet GM wants $200 for it.
As long as it's not running into the red/blowing past the radiator cap it shouldn't be a problem as long as the OP doesn't make a habit of it and in a pinch cranking the heater on full blast and dropping to a lower gear should help a little.

 

[Sold Honda bought Hondo]

I had my 1995 1500 350 Suburban A/C system repaired at a shop in Havasu that came "highly recommended around here". I took it in and was quoted $1400.00! to fix the A/C on a $2400.00 car. River Dave's Place says this is the best, so I do it. Three weeks of going around and around, the A/C was not cold at any motor RPM, and the car overheated at all speeds after I had this work done. After the 'special repeat work' the car would not run without the fan clutch being engaged, and it always overheated above 50 MPH even without the A/C on. I took it back 4 times and 'expert shop' told me it was all to spec'. I kept this old car BECAUSE it ran smooth, cool, and trouble free. It had never overheated in the 17 years I had owned it, until now. I investigated the 'new parts used' to do the repairs and found the condenser was not allowing air to the radiator and it was therefore not condensing. I ordered a new GM condenser, had it replaced (paid a different shop) and the car went back to it's old performance. The aftermarket compressor that was part of the repair is still not up to GM specs, and I'll wait until it shits, then go back to GM parts. Expert shop, brand name replacement parts, un usable vehicle, expert shop had no clue as to problem, and didn't want to find one. Brand name 'replacement part' totally out of factory spec, lots of finger pointing. I ordered a new GM condenser, paid a shop to install it, car has NO OVERHEATING PROBLEM now. (I tow boats with it again) Aftermarket compressor is low on pressure by about 15% under 2500 RPMs and 10% low, over 2500 RPMs, so I'm not as cool as I should be. I have the factory GM books, the great shop tied to BS me as to performance, but I can read. (that's why I have the books) If you are going to pay for any repairs, find out what is being done and the parts used before the work is completed, the repairs could be 'running' or they could be 'factory correct', it's up to your own investigation of the parts and labor. I've got almost $1900.00 in A/C repairs that have an 80% performance return. This local 'expert' may know many other vehicles really well, but he did nothing but BS me along, while I had the GM books to look at. His choice to use 'low quality aftermarket parts', while charging MORE THAN FULL RETAIL PRICES, and then arguing about performance shows me that he only wanted me as a customer ONE TIME, and he is correct.

Opps, George...

"It had never overheated in the 17 years I had owned it, until now. I investigated the 'new parts used' to do the repairs and found the condenser was not allowing air to the radiator and it was therefore not condensing."? OEM condenser? I submit that is was more likely plugged internally with compressor shrapnel. I have had a 95, now i have a 94...got them dirt cheap over that evil $1400 ac repair estimate. It costs about $250 if you do it yourself. I did ac at a Cadillac store for 4 years, used GM compressors on warranty repairs and aftermarket on the older stuff...I got an award for being the only employee in the larry h miller group to work 12 months without a single come back. Aftermarket compressors seem to work as well as oem.A lot of it has to deal with the installation...Making sure the system is dead ass clean and making sure the oil level is spot on and making sure the oil is where it's supposed to be on initial start up. Something about oil being difficult to compress. My 95 had r-134..the 94 runs r-12, i could have set the 94 up to run r-134 but i have a buddy with an almost full bottle of r-12...glad i did, the r-12 blows colder and cools the truck off faster on just the front ac than the 95 with both systems running.
Whoever did your ac should have caught the high side pressure running high and not being stable. If the system can't bleed of heat through the condenser either from internal restriction or air flow issues the high side pressure makes it obvious.

Don't you have a cad.? AC set a low freon code yet? GM C/H bodies from '85 to well into 2000's have non harrison evaporator cores and they ALL leak. Buick/olds/pontiac too. It's one of those deals were it needs a half lb. a year.They are fun to change, warranty used to pay 7+ hours....i figured out how to do one in less than 2hrs. GM warranty clerk called me out because i did 14 in one week, they refused to reimburse the dealership claiming i didn't perform the work...even though they had all the leaky cores...I ended up giving up my shortcut. They cut the op time to 2hrs for warranty work.That was the last year i grossed $50k+ at a dealership.
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