Exhaust options for enclosed engine compartment jet boat?

[Tahoe540]

I have been looking at a lot of builds with big HP for what I can use for my build. I see a lot of guys still using the Log Exhaust but mainly on blown applications. I will have a big cubic inch N/A motor with heads that will need good flow and should be in the 6500 rpm range. Anyone try to use through transom headers with exhaust coating and heat reflecting stick on material on the fiberglass engine compartment sides?
I found a few nice coatings but the Swain exhaust coating looks like it works well.
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

I really need to keep the boat configuration as it is as the kids and wife love the back seats.

 

[rush1]

Your pretty much stuck with what you have if you want to keep it configured that way ,you could cut the very end off of your logs where they step down but I'm not sure you could even tell the difference.

 

[monkeyswrench]

I have the same layout. To go with "Modern" risers, or jacketed headers, you'd have to switch out to a bench/engine cover. The current doghouse setup does not give much extra room, and newer stuff I've found is wider. Thus, until I pony up for a remodel, I'm sticking with my 496...big motors will have to wait.

 

[oldschool]

What kind of logs are you using? I believe some of those logs flow pretty well. Just have to make sure you keep the water from coming back up in them.

 

[farmo83]

I went with the most expensive solution when I ran into this problem and bought a new boat.

 

[Tahoe540]

What kind of logs are you using? I believe some of those logs flow pretty well. Just have to make sure you keep the water from coming back up in them.

There is no name on them they look like a Glenwood style log. I have seen the Nickson, Edelbrock and a few other brands. Anyone know which ones work best or seen a snail that will flow well?

 

[coolchange]

There have been a few guys that have done some tests. Found virtually no difference between a log and headers. That's in a ski boat application. Unless you're talking huge numbers.
6500 in a jet boat?

 

[Tahoe540]

There have been a few guys that have done some tests. Found virtually no difference between a log and headers. That's in a ski boat application. Unless you're talking huge numbers.
6500 in a jet boat?

I have a 555 that should be over 650hp to use after I get the pump worked over.

 

[coolchange]

Sounds great. Your pump guy is setting it up to run that fast?
Should leave pretty hard.

 

[mash on it]

I'm wondering why a 6500 rpm mill in a family truckster?

A big N/A mill should have good or great mid range torque, to pull a AA or 9.25 impeller, maybe even a 9.5" impeller.

In keeping rpm down, 5k to 5500, exhaust flow shouldn't be as big of an issue. A good set of logs and snails should get you there.

In my sled, 5k with a AA impeller is ~505hp (stockish 454)
AA @6500 is over 1100 hp.
'A' impeller @ 6500 is over 980 hp.
'C' impeller @ 6500 ~700 hp, and would lose the bottom end needed to move that family open bow ski boat, especially for skiing and wake boarding.

Matching the impeller to the combo is the key.

I'd love to see a big cube N/A make these numbers.

Just my $0.02

Dan'l

 

[guest hs]

You will need to go with something like Lightening jacketed headers and the motor box will have to go. You will have to do a bench with a full engine hatch. The log manifolds were never designed for large cubic inch or high h.p. applications. I built a jet daycruiser a few years back with Bassett through transom headers with a full engine hatch which is really a no no. I never had any problems but I did have fire/ heat proof material on the underside of the hatch and it did get hot in there. I was not able to put a cooler next to the engine which sucked and the water injected headers always put water in the bilge. I probably would not do it again on a future build.

 

[Tahoe540]

I appreciate the comments and past experiences. This is my first jet boat and we enjoyed it last year (our first year) all stock but I have this big block with nice heads so why not build a nice N/A family cruiser? I am looking at a few wet exhaust friendly cams. The motor currently has a set of 2.25 Lightning headers on it but they won't fit in the jet boat. My plan is a bigger Hydraulic roller to replace the .632 in lift in there now but I might need to have to go with a cam to try and compliment the bad flowing exhaust.

 

[oldschool]

Changing the rear seating to bench with hatch is out of the question? That would make more room for exhaust. I'd talk to some guys that have done comparisons on the dyno logs vs. other exhaust as well.

 

[Tahoe540]

Changing the rear seating to bench with hatch is out of the question? That would make more room for exhaust. I'd talk to some guys that have done comparisons on the dyno logs vs. other exhaust as well.

Like I said I got the jet boat but I have 3 daughters and a wife who love the back seat setup. Just trying to have my cake and eat it too LOL. I am pretty sure I will end up with logs but just seeing what was out there as there are smarter guys then me out there doing this stuff.

 

[HOOTER SLED-]

I have the same set up too.....I wanna say the measurement was something like 32 or 33" width to go up with exhaust....which means to.lose the logs....you gotta go bench/new hatch. Some day.

 

[wzuber]

Have your gurlz not been in a boat with a rear bench and full eng. cover? Everyone I know prefers it. Specifically ladies like it because they can sit or lay on top comfortably while idling floating, anchored etc. and they can see well as well as be seen well and we all know how much they like to be seen. haha
As a general rule I find most big inch pump gas combos work well/best overall around 6000rpm +/- 2-300 rpm. Typically depending on head flow, cam selection etc. (power band) a "B" +/- cut impeller with a inducer nets a very efficient pump set up. Do you have an adjustable shoe/ride plate set up? If not, your not likely going to reap the benefits of the increased power and will just be wasting your time and $$$. If you cant tune the load to the pump efficiently/correctly etc. your basically just doing a continuous "water box" type burn out. (auto drag strip type burn out)

 

[was thatguy]

Yeah that rpm sounds high

My BBC dynoed around 600+ and I turn a stainless A at 5500 max more or less. (85 MPH best, does 80 now, pumps kinda loose)
19’ Miller

 

[Tahoe540]

Yes they do like the covered motor on our offshore boat but they like the jet boat the way it is. They are still little and we have a lot of kids on the boat. I am planning on having the entire pump gone through and even a new intake done if needed for the HP change as well as a droop and ride plate. I was going to use the Place Diverter one that bolts on.
I have a set of Brodix BB2 Xtra CNC heads with Jesel Shaft rockers. The cam I am looking at is pretty big so I am hoping it could pull past 6000k.

 

[wzuber]

I was going to use the Place Diverter one that bolts on.

lol....that's a splash guard, not a ride plate. enjoi your float as it is and buy a real hot rod for that eng./speed demon desire.

 

[oldschool]

Kids love the bench/engine hatch combo

 

[monkeyswrench]

Just a thought, but is this your first jet, and the motor was not originally for it, correct? Make sure you get a cam for the application. Too much overlap and it'll get real expensive (water getting places it shouldn't via exhaust.) I'm sure someone here knows more than me, I don't know numbers for such.

 

[rrrr]

No good answer from me, but I want to compliment you on the engine wiring and overall look of skillful work under your engine cover. Some of the jet boats I see are wired with different gauge and color wires spliced together and routed in a totally haphazard fashion.

Doing it correctly prevents that oh-so-familiar sight of a jet boat being towed back to the ramp.

Your engine compartment looks great.

 

[spectras only]

There is no name on them they look like a Glenwood style log. I have seen the Nickson, Edelbrock and a few other brands. Anyone know which ones work best or seen a snail that will flow well?

Glenwood, Nicson, Hardin,Harman they all work decent. They all have one thing in common though, step down output diameter on their snails, so it would work small blocks or big blocks. People with big blocks cutting the reducers off of the snails. Cutting the reducer off the snails, logs can provide similar performance of Bassett headers.
Young kids do like the rear jump seats because they feel snug [ smallish for 180lbs+ adults though] and good overall vision from there.

 

[was thatguy]

Yes they do like the covered motor on our offshore boat but they like the jet boat the way it is. They are still little and we have a lot of kids on the boat. I am planning on having the entire pump gone through and even a new intake done if needed for the HP change as well as a droop and ride plate. I was going to use the Place Diverter one that bolts on.
I have a set of Brodix BB2 Xtra CNC heads with Jesel Shaft rockers. The cam I am looking at is pretty big so I am hoping it could pull past 6000k.

Have you studied the impeller charts?
You’re obviously a sharp guy and knowledgeable with engines and boats.
It isn’t just a matter of a bigger cam and heads and sticking shoes and diverters on.
To be honest, having a family jet that is optimized at over 5500 RPM will not be fun.

I run a comp hyd roller and Brodix BB1’s. Morell lifters and Brodix girdles.
Tunnel ram and 2 hybrid 750 4150’s that I built myself.
I built the carbs custom with side hung floats and 4 inlet feed, no transfer tubes.
It took a lot of trial and error to get it where it’s at.
I don’t have an impeller chart in front of me, but if you are at peak HP of mid 600 at 6000 plus RPM you will be running a B or modified AB to get there. (Off the top of my head, again, I have no chart in front of me)

Now that’s all fine and dandy if a hot rod gas sucking monster is what you’re after! But it doesn’t sound like thats what the boat is for?
Again, mine dynos over 600 HP, but it’s all in before 5700 rpm.
It pulls hard with the A, and can cruise along at 50/60 mph on the primaries, and still do a wheelie and paste you into the seat all the way to 80 plus.
I tried a detailed B, and a modified A and it’s sort of like changing torque converters in a bracket car.

 

[was thatguy]

Just a thought, but is this your first jet, and the motor was not originally for it, correct? Make sure you get a cam for the application. Too much overlap and it'll get real expensive (water getting places it shouldn't via exhaust.) I'm sure someone here knows more than me, I don't know numbers for such.

112* is the common separation, that’s all I know...wanna see my old block that has a corner missing?

 

[Sharp Shooter]

I would leave the boat as it is and keep enjoying it and find a Hot Rod hull for the Hot Rod engine. Just my .2

 

[Dalton]

mine are like this, but I want to upgrade

 

[Tahoe540]

112* is the common separation, that’s all I know...wanna see my old block that has a corner missing?

wasthatguy and
Thanks for your posts they are what I want to see as I am new to jet boats. I am looking for real world experience so I don't waste a lot of time or money. This motor is coming out of an offshore boat so I know about wet exhaust and camshaft design. I dyno'd this motor a few versions ago (548) with the cam that is in it now and it dyno'd at 621HP and 675ft/lbs torque with 088 heads. My plan is to upgrade the cam to fit the heads. I was putting 6500rpm out there as just a number as I think 5500rpm sucks. I come from racing a nostalgia FED so I like rpm. I also live next to a guy who has a fine line hydro, texas tunnel and a carbon fiber daytona all blown. I know my boat will never be 90 mph I just want something I can have fun when I want to keep up with my slower buddies and throw a roost. I already have the motor so why not use it, if anything I might change the heads out to something more tame. I wish I could buy a hot rod but I am selling our other boat to downsize. I am helping my buddy rebuild his DiMarco with a bad ass BBC so I still get to have fun. I have a thread going in restorations.

 

[Dalton]

I like the idea, it wont be crazy fast, but youll be able to keep up with the outdrive/bravo boats

 

[guest hs]

Just build yourself a nice aspirated 496 singe carb deal leave the logs on it and go have fun with the boat! Put the money in the jet pump. Ride plate, shoe, grate blue print and put a place diverter on it.

 

[2Driver]

I changed our old spectra from your set up to a full engine cover and back bench. You may even get in some side seating perhaps.

It is so much easier to walk around the boat without everyone knee knocking each other plus you get the entire engine cover to sun and play on. I bet the kids would never look back. Its way more social when under way too vs everyone “ take your places”

 

[Gelcoater]

I would leave the boat as it is and keep enjoying it and find a Hot Rod hull for the Hot Rod engine. Just my .2

This!
Or.
Find a similar style to this truxter, but in V drive configuration

 

[monkeyswrench]

Just build yourself a nice aspirated 496 singe carb deal leave the logs on it and go have fun with the boat! Put the money in the jet pump. Ride plate, shoe, grate blue print and put a place diverter on it.

This is exactly what I have in my jet. Does just fine. Pretty mild setup, comparatively, but aside from the big boys I can keep up just fine.

 

[wzuber]

one fairly simple and no cost thing you could do in the interim to help shape your plan and better determine how much perf. you will get out of your combo as it sits right now is verify the position of the existing intake adapter and jet in the hull. Take a 6' straight edge and a tape measure and start measuring the bottom of the hull to verify if the mfg. even bothered to place the intake straight inline with the keel of the hull and centered between the strakes. Then you will want to straight edge (AKA-S.E.) the keel to determine how much hook (concave = bad or excessive drag) or rocker (convex = better/good if placed correctly), if any, is in the keel and if the transition from the keel into the intake is correct, i.e.- a smooth, rounded continuous line and clean. (that is critical) Is your hull a round keel or a flat/delta style keeled hull? Next, while maintaining contact between the S.E. and hull keel, slide the S.E. back toward the transom STRAIGHT down the center line of the hull until the end of S.E. just extends past the transom. Look at where the biting edge (u-shaped portion) of the I.A. (intake adapter) is in relation to the keel. Is that edge of the I.A. even with (in contact), above or below the line of the keel? This will determine how well your pump will load water into it. Knowing what angle the I.A. is installed in relation to the keel is important too but that is a bit more difficult and detailed to determine so we will just start with the basics. Next, again with the trailing edge of the S.E. slightly aft of the transom, holding the S.E. straight to the hull center line and flush to the bottom of the hull across its length, move outward every 6" or so and look to see HOW/IF it is maintaining continuous contact.. straight/flush the entire distance, concave or convex? Is it "hooked" as most tend to be? (ref. above)
Doing this will help you to see just what you can reasonably expect perf. wise from your $ and time investment with your specific boat hull.

Many mfg's. just kinda stab the pumps in because in your basic ski boat application, which is what 95% of them are, close is good enough, it will still work ok. Very few, if any, are hi perf. builds from the mfg. That takes time and $$ and when your building for profit that isn't happening unless the customer is paying for it. When you start to increase perf. as you likely know every little detail begins to effect the final result. The further you are trying to push the boundary the more the details matter and positively or negatively effect your end result. When your talking about moving a larger, heavy hull like yours that was designed for a basic application into the realm of a higher performance application your basically trying to push a rock up hill. How big of a rock and how far you choose to push it will determine how successful you are at obtaining your goal.

At the end of the day it's your life, time, $$$ etc. You can choose to do whatever you like..some, none or all of what I and others have offered you. Like everyone else here, I'm just offering up some thoughts and info. to assist you in your endeavor from my/our own experiences and perspectives. I hope this is of some assistance to you.

 

[monkeyswrench]

one fairly simple and no cost thing you could do in the interim to help shape your plan and better determine how much perf. you will get out of your combo as it sits right now is verify the position of the existing intake adapter and jet in the hull. Take a 6' straight edge and a tape measure and start measuring the bottom of the hull to verify if the mfg. even bothered to place the intake straight inline with the keel of the hull and centered between the strakes. Then you will want to straight edge (AKA-S.E.) the keel to determine how much hook (concave = bad or excessive drag) or rocker (convex = better/good if placed correctly), if any, is in the keel and if the transition from the keel into the intake is correct, i.e.- a smooth, rounded continuous line and clean. (that is critical) Is your hull a round keel or a flat/delta style keeled hull? Next, while maintaining contact between the S.E. and hull keel, slide the S.E. back toward the transom STRAIGHT down the center line of the hull until the end of S.E. just extends past the transom. Look at where the biting edge (u-shaped portion) of the I.A. (intake adapter) is in relation to the keel. Is that edge I.A. even with (in contact), above or below the line of the keel? This will determine how well your pump will load water into it. Knowing what angle the I.A. is installed in relation to the keel is important too but that is a bit more difficult and detailed to determine so we will just start with the basics. Next, again with the trailing edge of the S.E. slightly aft of the transom, holding the S.E. straight and flush to the bottom of the hull across its length, move outward every 6" or so and look to see HOW/IF it is maintaining continuous contact.. straight/flush the entire distance, concave or convex? Is it "hooked" as most tend to be? (ref. above)
Doing this will help you to see just what you can reasonably expect perf. wise from your $ and time investment with your specific boat hull.

Many mfg's. just kinda stab the pumps in because in your basic ski boat application, which is what 95% of them are, close is good enough, it will still work ok. Very few, if any, are hi perf. builds from the mfg. That takes time and $$ and when your building for profit that isn't happening unless the customer is paying for it. When you start to increase perf. as you likely know every little detail begins to effect the final result. The further you are trying to push the boundary the more the details matter and positively or negatively effect your end result. When your talking about moving a larger, heavy hull like yours that was designed for a basic application into the realm of a higher performance application your basically trying to push a rock up hill. How big of a rock and how far you choose to push it will determine how successful you are at obtaining your goal.

At the end of the day it's your life, time, $$$ etc. You can choose to do whatever you like..some, none or all of what I've and others have offered you. Like everyone else here, I'm just offering up some thoughts and info. to assist you in your endeavor from our own experiences and perspectives. I hope this is of some assistance to you.

Well...I just learned my jet boat lessen for the day! I knew concave was bad...didn't know proper placement of a convex shape could be helpful. I just thought it was flatness on the straightedge you'd be after. I appreciate anything I can learn, but stuff to help speed or efficiency or always the better ones.

 

[Tahoe540]

one fairly simple and no cost thing you could do in the interim to help shape your plan and better determine how much perf. you will get out of your combo as it sits right now is verify the position of the existing intake adapter and jet in the hull. Take a 6' straight edge and a tape measure and start measuring the bottom of the hull to verify if the mfg. even bothered to place the intake straight inline with the keel of the hull and centered between the strakes. Then you will want to straight edge (AKA-S.E.) the keel to determine how much hook (concave = bad or excessive drag) or rocker (convex = better/good if placed correctly), if any, is in the keel and if the transition from the keel into the intake is correct, i.e.- a smooth, rounded continuous line and clean. (that is critical) Is your hull a round keel or a flat/delta style keeled hull? Next, while maintaining contact between the S.E. and hull keel, slide the S.E. back toward the transom STRAIGHT down the center line of the hull until the end of S.E. just extends past the transom. Look at where the biting edge (u-shaped portion) of the I.A. (intake adapter) is in relation to the keel. Is that edge of the I.A. even with (in contact), above or below the line of the keel? This will determine how well your pump will load water into it. Knowing what angle the I.A. is installed in relation to the keel is important too but that is a bit more difficult and detailed to determine so we will just start with the basics. Next, again with the trailing edge of the S.E. slightly aft of the transom, holding the S.E. straight to the hull center line and flush to the bottom of the hull across its length, move outward every 6" or so and look to see HOW/IF it is maintaining continuous contact.. straight/flush the entire distance, concave or convex? Is it "hooked" as most tend to be? (ref. above)
Doing this will help you to see just what you can reasonably expect perf. wise from your $ and time investment with your specific boat hull.

Many mfg's. just kinda stab the pumps in because in your basic ski boat application, which is what 95% of them are, close is good enough, it will still work ok. Very few, if any, are hi perf. builds from the mfg. That takes time and $$ and when your building for profit that isn't happening unless the customer is paying for it. When you start to increase perf. as you likely know every little detail begins to effect the final result. The further you are trying to push the boundary the more the details matter and positively or negatively effect your end result. When your talking about moving a larger, heavy hull like yours that was designed for a basic application into the realm of a higher performance application your basically trying to push a rock up hill. How big of a rock and how far you choose to push it will determine how successful you are at obtaining your goal.

At the end of the day it's your life, time, $$$ etc. You can choose to do whatever you like..some, none or all of what I and others have offered you. Like everyone else here, I'm just offering up some thoughts and info. to assist you in your endeavor from my/our own experiences and perspectives. I hope this is of some assistance to you.

This is great info. I do read a lot of stuff on this site and others trying to learn as much as I can but this is the kind of tech I appreciate as I am a newbie to jet boats. I already have to have some gel fixed on the the bottom of my boat and spoke to the guy who will be doing it about blueprinting the bottom of the boat. Was going to be extra but I thought would be worth it moving forward. I also will need the pump completely rebuilt to accomodate any kind of HP increase as it seems to be a little loose.

I will be out with a straight edge tonight for sure.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

 

[Hallett Dave]

This is great info. I do read a lot of stuff on this site and others trying to learn as much as I can but this is the kind of tech I appreciate as I am a newbie to jet boats. I already have to have some gel fixed on the the bottom of my boat and spoke to the guy who will be doing it about blueprinting the bottom of the boat. Was going to be extra but I thought would be worth it moving forward. I also will need the pump completely rebuilt to accomodate any kind of HP increase as it seems to be a little loose.

I will be out with a straight edge tonight for sure.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

I have Imco Powerflow exhaust on my 750HP Foxwell engine with an AED 850 DP carb in my 18.6 Hallett Mini Cruiser. It spins over 6,000 RPM.
It's a jet BOAT.
I had Teague make custom stainless water jacketed down pipes through the transom.
My engine hatch had to be slightly modified to accommodate the conversion.
I have the jump seats on each side of the engine cover.
I live in Mohave Valley if you are in the area you are more than welcome to come by and check it out.
You are also welcome to call me as well.
HD
661-209-9698

 

[wzuber]

This is great info. I do read a lot of stuff on this site and others trying to learn as much as I can but this is the kind of tech I appreciate as I am a newbie to jet boats. I already have to have some gel fixed on the the bottom of my boat and spoke to the guy who will be doing it about blueprinting the bottom of the boat. Was going to be extra but I thought would be worth it moving forward. I also will need the pump completely rebuilt to accomodate any kind of HP increase as it seems to be a little loose.

I will be out with a straight edge tonight for sure.

Thanks again for everyone's input.

Complete, correct/proper blue printing will require the boat be flipped over and the whole running surface be straightened, detailed etc. If he's just going to grind the excess gel coat at the transom to kinda help it out that's helpful to an extent but not a "blu-print" by any means. If you were to go to the full B.P. extent you would want to include removal and machining the intake for a fully adjustable hardware in the I.A. with ride plate etc. and re-installing the I.A. in the correct position, angle etc. for the optimum perf. of your particular hull and time/$$ investment. In so doing it will require a complete re-rig/ installation of the engine etc. as the drive line angles will be different due to new eng, height, and proper alignment of the eng/pump assembly. It's a bit of an involved process to create the most efficient use of all the boats components, power etc.

 

[warpt71]

mine are like this, but I want to upgrade


View attachment 737480

Ill help you upgrade by buying those from you!? I would like to get away from the Glenwoods and snails..........

 

[Tahoe540]

So I took in the boat to get the jet rebuilt and upgraded for some HP. Should get it back next week. Had a little sticker shock but the whole pump is being redone including a new loader, droop, etc. Now to choose which motor to install. I have a 454 I am rebuilding out of an old v-drive, looks to be a LS7 crate motor. I will install some 088 heads I have to match a decent wet exhaust hydraulic roller or a 555 with really nice parts. He said my max RPM should be about 5400rpm with 600hp. Looks like I am going to try logs first to see how it goes.

 

[Rattle Can Lou]

Rick King has an old flatty with a blown 500 something inch motor in it with logs...Trust me..match port the logs and call it a day...boat runs 115 mph.

 

[spectras only]

i may have missed, what jet drive do you have?

 

[ka0tyk]

i remember seeing some threads about snails that had an ending 3" section you could cut off and open the exhaust up a bit and put a 4" tube and tip. not sure if that was real or not?

 

[spectras only]

^^^^
I wrote that. It is real. i took of the reducer off on all my Spectras, having Harman, Nicson and Hardin wet logs. If you have stock power, it wouldn't matter having smaller snail output, but building high HP, better flow needed.

The LS6 in my 24 Spectra, with reducer cut off on the snail. 4" exhaust.

 

[COCA COLA COWBOY]

You could also take that nice big inch engine and put it in another hull that will perform and save your day cruiser as the family hauler. That new engine sounds like it would be a good performer in a 18 or 19 foot CP/Youngblood gullwing type boat.

 

[Rjt01]

Run the new set up and u will notice a big difference, I help work on boats at place Diverter and that set up goes a long way . Here is some of the pumps we worked on . And a set of imco headers that I have sitting . Did my buddy’s 20.5 carrera with the inducer and detailed impeller and droop with Diverter and with stock indmar 454 single carb and he can now runs with my buddy’s 210s Hallett with a 502 phaff motor running about 650hp .

 

[Tahoe540]

The pump is a JG-A and he is going stainless A i guess? Leaving the pump business up to him. Just got done with the short block and bolted on my 088 heads. I think this should do pretty good. The cam and heads I am using saw 621 hp peak and 675 ft lbs of torque on a long flat line

in a 548. Hoping for 550+ as this motor is 9ish to 1.

 

[Tahoe540]

Run the new set up and u will notice a big difference, I help work on boats at place Diverter and that set up goes a long way . Here is some of the pumps we worked on . And a set of imco headers that I have sitting . Did my buddy’s 20.5 carrera with the inducer and detailed impeller and droop with Diverter and with stock indmar 454 single carb and he can now runs with my buddy’s 210s Hallett with a 502 phaff motor running about 650hp .

THis is the kind of news I was hoping to hear.

 

[Rjt01]

Pm ur number Tahoe and can send vid of it running

 

[spectras only]

Since you've got a JG pump, definitely go with droop and Place diverter+ S/S impeller with sholdered wear ring.