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F-150 5.0 Dying

lIQUIDATEDdAMAGES

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I’ve got a 2013 F-150 with the 5.0 and 124k miles. Been a great truck with no issues so far. This morning woke up and the battery was dead. This makes sense because the battery was original and has been on the fritz for a while. Jumped it this morning and replaced the battery with a new one today.

On the way home after work I was getting off the 55 and waiting in the traffic at the end of the freeway and it died twice in idle. No alarms, all normal temps, etc. and fired right back up as soon as I turned the key.

Any thoughts or ideas on this? Seems really strange to me...


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spectras only

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Expert Chevy owners will come by shortly to give you advice.;):D
i own a Ecoboost, my advice is to trade your 5.0 in for more towing power.:)
 

5oclocksomewhere

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I’ve got a 2013 F-150 with the 5.0 and 124k miles. Been a great truck with no issues so far. This morning woke up and the battery was dead. This makes sense because the battery was original and has been on the fritz for a while. Jumped it this morning and replaced the battery with a new one today.

On the way home after work I was getting off the 55 and waiting in the traffic at the end of the freeway and it died twice in idle. No alarms, all normal temps, etc. and fired right back up as soon as I turned the key.

Any thoughts or ideas on this? Seems really strange to me...


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Fuck man it’s a Ford that has 124k on it. You should be happy it got that far and put it in the Smithsonian!

No really I have no idea I’m just a Ford hater and can never pass up a chance.:D
 

Sleek-Jet

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Check your cables.

That ain't no lie. Every Ford I've ever owned has had bad battery cables. My old SHOgun Taurus shut off going to down the highway one time. Like someone turned off the key.
 

lbhsbz

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Give it a few days. Modern engine management systems learn parameters so they can continue to perform in the expected manner as things degrade or get dirty.

Example...throttle body will get dirty over time, and with fly by wire, since you have a servo (or stepper) actuated throttle body, they simply adjust throttle position do control idle rather than an idle speed control valve. As the level of schmoo progresses, the “idle” position of the throttle blade changes, as the ECM learns the conditions and adjusts to them.

When you disconnect the battery, a lot of those learned values are lost most times.

I use a jump box to “hot swap” batteries in anything later than 2000 anymore.

My wife’s 4runner took about a week to relearn everything after I rebuilt the engine before it would work right.
 

lIQUIDATEDdAMAGES

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Another thing I just remembered is that i put about four gallons of year old fuel into it on Saturday. Was trying to get rid of it instead of burning in the dinghy motor. Haven’t driven it much since. Had about a 1/3 tank when I added it. I made one stop on the way home after it died and noticed from there home the range on the computer when down like crazy. Went from like 120 miles or so to 90 in like 3 miles. Not sure if that would be an issue or not. I’ll fill up in the morning...


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pronstar

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Another thing I just remembered is that i put about four gallons of year old fuel into it on Saturday. Was trying to get rid of it instead of burning in the dinghy motor. Haven’t driven it much since. Had about a 1/3 tank when I added it. I made one stop on the way home after it died and noticed from there home the range on the computer when down like crazy. Went from like 120 miles or so to 90 in like 3 miles. Not sure if that would be an issue or not. I’ll fill up in the morning...


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Pretty sure that’s your issue LOL


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lbhsbz

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Another thing I just remembered is that i put about four gallons of year old fuel into it on Saturday. Was trying to get rid of it instead of burning in the dinghy motor. Haven’t driven it much since. Had about a 1/3 tank when I added it. I made one stop on the way home after it died and noticed from there home the range on the computer when down like crazy. Went from like 120 miles or so to 90 in like 3 miles. Not sure if that would be an issue or not. I’ll fill up in the morning...


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That was fucking stupid. This ain’t a 1978 BBC with a Quadra jet.
 

monkeyswrench

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Old gas, with ethanol, holds moisture. The shit looks like a tequila sunrise after a bit...layers with water, some weird water gas mix, and piss fuel. The water sinks to the pickup, done deal. I've had good luck with Startron, blue bottle at WallyWorld here, may not be legal in the PRK.
 

4Waters

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That ain't no lie. Every Ford I've ever owned has had bad battery cables. My old SHOgun Taurus shut off going to down the highway one time. Like someone turned off the key.
You gotta do a battery service every year, pull the cables off the battery and clean them with battery terminal cleaner reinstall the cables and then spray them and the terminals with battery terminal protectant.

crc-car-fluids-chemicals-05647-64_1000.jpg
 

BajaMike

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Another thing I just remembered is that i put about four gallons of year old fuel into it on Saturday. Was trying to get rid of it instead of burning in the dinghy motor. Haven’t driven it much since. Had about a 1/3 tank when I added it. I made one stop on the way home after it died and noticed from there home the range on the computer when down like crazy. Went from like 120 miles or so to 90 in like 3 miles. Not sure if that would be an issue or not. I’ll fill up in the morning...


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“Fuel or Fire”, probably the above, a short or an ECM going out......and its a Ford... LOL
 

phuggit

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Check your #27 fuel pump fuse. If the socket is burnt, Ford has a repair kit for $20. The #27 fuse socket is too small for the current and melts. It's a common problem and there is a TSB out for the repair.
 

Bigbore500r

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I'm not gonna pull the Chevy card......

It's possible the IAC table modifiers were re-set when you changed the battery (although it doesn't have an IAC, it uses those tables to figure out how far to open the throttle body at idle under different conditions). The tables have base values that take into account temperature, vehicle speed, and MAP readings. Then, the computer sees trends and continuously modifies those tables to keep the truck idling as expected. Your throttle body gets dirty, the blade needs to open further to allow air in past the grime. Reset the IAC tables, the truck will take a while to "re-learn" where to open that blade to get the expected idle rpm under different conditions.

I'd drive it for a few weeks and see if it stops doing that, before I spent any time or money.

Oh Yea - STOP PUTTING LAWN MOWER GAS IN YORE FORD :D
 

j21black

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I’ve got a 2013 F-150 with the 5.0 and 124k miles. Been a great truck with no issues so far. This morning woke up and the battery was dead. This makes sense because the battery was original and has been on the fritz for a while. Jumped it this morning and replaced the battery with a new one today.

On the way home after work I was getting off the 55 and waiting in the traffic at the end of the freeway and it died twice in idle. No alarms, all normal temps, etc. and fired right back up as soon as I turned the key.

Any thoughts or ideas on this? Seems really strange to me...


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Have you tuned it up yet?

My 2.7L Ecoboost started getting a choppy idle around 110K - New plugs and wires and its back to normal.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I'm not gonna pull the Chevy card......

It's possible the IAC table modifiers were re-set when you changed the battery (although it doesn't have an IAC, it uses those tables to figure out how far to open the throttle body at idle under different conditions). The tables have base values that take into account temperature, vehicle speed, and MAP readings. Then, the computer sees trends and continuously modifies those tables to keep the truck idling as expected. Your throttle body gets dirty, the blade needs to open further to allow air in past the grime. Reset the IAC tables, the truck will take a while to "re-learn" where to open that blade to get the expected idle rpm under different conditions.

I'd drive it for a few weeks and see if it stops doing that, before I spent any time or money.

Oh Yea - STOP PUTTING LAWN MOWER GAS IN YORE FORD :D

I’m sure it was the bad gas, new battery, dirty MAF and throttle body and original spark plugs causing the issue.
 

stokerwhore

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4 year old pump gas isn't gas anymore LMAO. might wanna change your fuel filters while you're at it
 

outboard_256

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I would drive it for 50-100 miles and then see how its running. Computer is probably doing all its checks since it lost power. Or hook a scanner up, it will tell you what stage its in.
 

lIQUIDATEDdAMAGES

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Well I filled up with new gas today and drove it about 40 miles. Ran fine without issue. The only thing I noticed is that the accelerator seems a bit more sensitive than usual. I’m guessing what you guys said about the throttle body is probably right. Gonna keep driving it and see what happens. Thanks [emoji106]


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LargeOrangeFont

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Well I filled up with new gas today and drove it about 40 miles. Ran fine without issue. The only thing I noticed is that the accelerator seems a bit more sensitive than usual. I’m guessing what you guys said about the throttle body is probably right. Gonna keep driving it and see what happens. Thanks [emoji106]


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Yep. The drive by wire system will learn your habits and desensitize over time.
 
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