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Feedback in stereo from trim switch....

kevnmcd

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Whenever I hit the upper limit on my trim, I get a loud crackling/buzzing sound through my speakers. When I trim down and hit the bottom limit, I get a loud popping sound. Nothing while it is moving just when it hits the upper limit and lower limit. I don't believe the grounding source for the trim pump and stereo/amps are the same. Any ideas what I could do or look for to get rid of this?
 

rivermobster

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if they DO ground to the same point, you need to seperate em.

have all of your audio grounds go straight back to the battery terminal.
 

Fltplan

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After taking my old jet bote to a reputable shop here in San Diego to have a jetovator installed, I towed it to the river and took er for a spin. Whenever you hit the trim switch the motor would cut out completely! Duh!!! You'd think they would check that stuff.:swear
 

Abc123

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After taking my old jet bote to a reputable shop here in San Diego to have a jetovator installed, I towed it to the river and took er for a spin. Whenever you hit the trim switch the motor would cut out completely! Duh!!! You'd think they would check that stuff.:swear

My Shockwave did that whenever I opened the hatch. Really annoying.
 

Dave Wettlaufer

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Put a capacitor on the hot side of your power going into the radio/amps. No more noise.
You wire it in by putting one connection on power and the other to ground.

You can use a .47 uF cap...either electrolytic, mylar, polyester or polypropylene. I would use the cheapest because this does not directly effect sound quality, they will all suppress the EMI/RFI.

0.47uF 50V 105C Radial Electrolytic Capacitor
0.47uF 100V 5% Mylar Film Capacitors
0.47uF 10% 100V polyester film capacitor
Dayton Audio DMPC-0.47 0.47uF 250V Polypropylene Capacitor
 

26redline

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Trim pump, here is a picture of the resistors that you will need to get, it will solve your problem...;)
 

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Outdrive1

Outdrive1 Marine Sales https://www.outdrive1.com/
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if they DO ground to the same point, you need to seperate em.

have all of your audio grounds go straight back to the battery terminal.

X2. Easiest way to solve this problem is to run power and ground from the deck to the battery.


Sent from my Commodore 64.
 

HOOTER SLED-

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Funny, I used to never get any noise at all. Now I get engine noise while mine is running. Checked some stuff before, but never really found the source of the problem. Sucks cuz I wanna listen to my stereo while driving. I'll have to peek through again. bugs the shit out of me. Just started happening out of nowhere. May need a filter I guess. But why didn't it happen from the get go when I installed everything?
 

djunkie

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Funny, I used to never get any noise at all. Now I get engine noise while mine is running. Checked some stuff before, but never really found the source of the problem. Sucks cuz I wanna listen to my stereo while driving. I'll have to peek through again. bugs the shit out of me. Just started happening out of nowhere. May need a filter I guess. But why didn't it happen from the get go when I installed everything?

I'd start checking for loose wires. Might be a loose nut behind the wheel though. :D
I had this same problem in my old boat. I tore out the whole system and redid it. Ran all power and ground straight to the battery minus the ignition signal to the switch on the dash. Never had a problem again.


Sent from my iPad using Tap That Ass
 

HOOTER SLED-

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I'd start checking for loose wires. Might be a loose nut behind the wheel though. :D
I had this same problem in my old boat. I tore out the whole system and redid it. Ran all power and ground straight to the battery minus the ignition signal to the switch on the dash. Never had a problem again.


Sent from my iPad using Tap That Ass


Yea, I'll have to peek again. It worked great for a long time. If I remember right, I think I tried to run wires to bypass and just fake it. Meaning I ran some spare wires I had straight to the battery. It didn't work. I think I may have even tried a different pair of RCAs.
 
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