First OB 21 Daytona

[Fonz69]

So I’ve been a jet boat guy forever and still am but needed a family boat for the river. Plan was to locate a nice Ultra or Eliminator Open Bow jet on the west coast this spring but the current prices have given me second thoughts. That said I came across a clean 92 21 Daytona Eliminator with a 2001 Mercury 300x on a setback jack plate 40 minutes from my house. In WI that’s unheard of! Interior works for the Mrs. so we can haul the kids friends and family. I have always loved the ride in the Daytona‘s and had a 85 version with a jet prior for this one.

The good

The BAD….

Prop is not healthy either

I am not sure what brand mount this is but it functions however the seals are totally shot and leak bad so I hope someone can chime in on what brand and where to find parts.

Appears the rod let go, last owner said they were cruising and it just shut off…

Maybe this head is repairable? Or just find a different one?
Not sure about this welding under the alternator? Doubt this is factory…

Lower reed block is toast, I’m not sure if I would be better off replacing them all or just the broken one? This is the first 2 stroke I have ever messed with so I’m all ears!

So I bought the boat knowing the motor is toast but I feel the 300 would make a nice motor to keep if it makes sense to repair it? Or is even possible…..

Any advice or part vendors to go to would be helpful as this is a winter project and I plan to go through every thing…not as crazy of a build like my stealth race boat (3 years) which the build thread is here in River Daves under the restoration group.

OB church make me a believer in this prop craziness

And help me keep a smile on my race team!!

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Find a 300XS powerhead and put it in place of that X.

 

[Fonz69]

Find a 300XS powerhead and put it in place of that X.

Ok, I’m a rookie to the OB’s so the dumb question is it will bolt right up?

 

[ONE-A-DAY]

Ok, I’m a rookie to the OB’s so the dumb question is it will bolt right up?

Yes but will require some re rigging. Xs is gonna cost some coin, I’ve had a couple with pro maxes, more affordable engine and still gets close to 100.

 

[ChrisV]

Go onto scream and fly and try to find a powerhead.

 

[HST4ME]

We've repaired worse, the weld on the top was to stop a porous water leak. The block can be welded up easy enough and a new sleeve installed. I probably have reed blocks and I do have spare rods. I can PM you my number if you want to talk.

 

[HST4ME]

This is an X I put back together that was worse than yours. New sleeve and holes patched up.

 

[HST4ME]

 

[Fonz69]

That’s what I was hoping for was to save this block, I also want to make sure it’s not a ticking time bomb if there’s a oiling or fuel issue that caused that rod to give up.

 

[HST4ME]

Injector issue. The 3.0/3.2 rods are awful and need all the help they can get to live. Sticking a piston like that almost always results in the small end breaking below the pin.

 

[Duramax]

Very cool!!! Were are you in Wisconsin? I was born and raised in Shawano.

The 21 is a great hull and handles water better than I ever imagined it would. Ours in a 94' with twin 260's and we absolutely love it. My wife wouldn't mind some more room inside, but she loves it non the less. I had always heard the 300x is a beast but is even more thirsty than my 260's! I don't recognize the jack plate, but I know many of these were rigged with WPM components, I just don't believe they made jackplates.

Post up some pics of the interior. We have a bimini top also and it has been great. Long live the 21's!!

 

[HST4ME]

There is a few to play with around here. 300x done right with a 32 drag 4 is a lot of fun. This one with a 2.5 ran almost 97 on a 45 degree day. Another buddy has a 300 pm with a SVS and VST delete that runs damn good too.

 

[Duramax]

Our "family boat"

 

[blue wonder]

I had a 21’ with a single 300x, ran 118mph with a 32p labbed cleaver

 

[Fonz69]

Very cool!!! Were are you in Wisconsin? I was born and raised in Shawano.

The 21 is a great hull and handles water better than I ever imagined it would. Ours in a 94' with twin 260's and we absolutely love it. My wife wouldn't mind some more room inside, but she loves it non the less. I had always heard the 300x is a beast but is even more thirsty than my 260's! I don't recognize the jack plate, but I know many of these were rigged with WPM components, I just don't believe they made jackplates.

Post up some pics of the interior. We have a bimini top also and it has been great. Long live the 21's!!

Live in Plover WI with the WI river in my backyard. I hear the 300x is thirsty but your talking to a guy who ran 110 turbo blue in my blown 540 in my last 21, now that was thirsty! Remember a rip up and back on the river was $300 each time….
I will work on posting up more interior picks, I think the boat is white base with purple stripes from what I can tell in a few spots and how you can see the stripe layout under the wrap in the right light.
If I end up liking the OB this coming summer I will probably restore the boat even farther each winter. This time it’s checking everything out and replacing what needs to be made ship shape.

 

[Fonz69]

I had a 21’ with a single 300x, ran 118mph with a 32p labbed cleaver

That’s moving! Must have been a light hull, I know they made a few Kevlar hulls in the past. I am sure mine is a typical layup. I did notice there are reliefs on the outside of each sponson around where the front wheels are when its on the trailer. My 85 did not have this or the strakes down the center of the sponsons. The center pod seems to be the same.

 

[Fonz69]

Ok so I have the powerhead about ready to lift out but I have no idea what this is?
it was zip tied to the starboard side near where the main harness coupler is and the pneumatic line runs down into the front of the lower unit.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Ok so I have the powerhead about ready to lift out but I have no idea what this is?
it was zip tied to the starboard side near where the main harness coupler is and the pneumatic line runs down into the front of the lower unit.
View attachment 1061304

Expansion tank. Once full oil oil there isn’t much room for things to expand when they get warm and will push out seals. I am a fan of them.

 

[Fonz69]

Learned something new today, thanks!

 

[HST4ME]

Mid teens with a healthy X and a good set up is about right.

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Expansion tank. Once full oil oil there isn’t much room for things to expand when they get warm and will push out seals. I am a fan of them.

Is that kinda like a "boost bottle"?

 

[Duramax]

Live in Plover WI with the WI river in my backyard. I hear the 300x is thirsty but your talking to a guy who ran 110 turbo blue in my blown 540 in my last 21, now that was thirsty! Remember a rip up and back on the river was $300 each time….
I will work on posting up more interior picks, I think the boat is white base with purple stripes from what I can tell in a few spots and how you can see the stripe layout under the wrap in the right light.
If I end up liking the OB this coming summer I will probably restore the boat even farther each winter. This time it’s checking everything out and replacing what needs to be made ship shape.

You aren't far at all from Shawano. We always talk about pulling the boat back and spending a week at my aunt and uncles house on Shawano Lake. Good luck with your rig!

 

[Fonz69]

Separated the powerhead tonight.

 

[Bullhead bully]

Expansion tank. Once full oil oil there isn’t much room for things to expand when they get warm and will push out seals. I am a fan of them.

I’m a fan of them as well. I zip tied them vertically in the powerheads and drilled a .062 hole in the top so they could breathe and pressurize. Really worked well! Especially when you did get water in the gear case you know right away because oil would come out of small hole and run down in the midsection. You knew you had a problem.

 

[Fonz69]

So does anyone have a line on where to purchase a service manual for this motor? I think the part number should be this 90-840514R01?

 

[n2otoofast4u]

I’m a fan of them as well. I zip tied them vertically in the powerheads and drilled a .062 hole in the top so they could breathe and pressurize. Really worked well! Especially when you did get water in the gear case you know right away because oil would come out of small hole and run down in the midsection. You knew you had a problem.

It’s interesting you say this, that’s exactly what I did on the Daytona, and it worked amazing!

The new boat doesn’t have them, and I fought seals all fkn summer! Boat is headed to Havasu Thanksgiving week, and staying for winter. I have a laundry list of things I want done, and if I don’t re-power, expansion tanks are nearly top of the list!

 

[Bullhead bully]

It’s interesting you say this, that’s exactly what I did on the Daytona, and it worked amazing!

The new boat doesn’t have them, and I fought seals all fkn summer! Boat is headed to Havasu Thanksgiving week, and staying for winter. I have a laundry list of things I want done, and if I don’t re-power, expansion tanks are nearly top of the list!

Yeah they really work well. 1/2 pvc and 2 caps with 5/32 tubing With 2 1/8 npt fittings.
Can do anything with the new 4 strokes either. Touch then and void warranty. Dumb.

 

[WAAZ]

Yeah they really work well. 1/2 pvc and 2 caps with 5/32 tubing With 2 1/8 npt fittings.
Can do anything with the new 4 strokes either. Touch then and void warranty. Dumb.

Having just had the seals in the lower unit on my ‘97 225 promax go to leaksville, I’d really like to install something like this. Can someone explain/diagram where the line hooks up?

 

[HST4ME]

Yeah they really work well. 1/2 pvc and 2 caps with 5/32 tubing With 2 1/8 npt fittings.
Can do anything with the new 4 strokes either. Touch then and void warranty. Dumb.

I will have something soon that replaces the upper drain plug and no one will know the difference. All these motors before and after should have come with a monitor bottle with an alarm.

 

[Bullhead bully]

Having just had the seals in the lower unit on my ‘97 225 promax go to leaksville, I’d really like to install something like this. Can someone explain/diagram where the line hooks up?

I am trying to remember who the manufacturer was. But it was seriously as simple as a PVC pipe with a cap on both ends. Basically a pipe bomb before you drill the 1/16 hole in the top. And then it replaced the upper shifter shaft support housing with a drilled and tapped piece where the oil would come out to vent as it expanded.

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Yeah they really work well. 1/2 pvc and 2 caps with 5/32 tubing With 2 1/8 npt fittings.
Can do anything with the new 4 strokes either. Touch then and void warranty. Dumb.

Are you having similar issues with the 400s and/or 450s?

 

[n2otoofast4u]

Having just had the seals in the lower unit on my ‘97 225 promax go to leaksville, I’d really like to install something like this. Can someone explain/diagram where the line hooks up?

not sure if it will work on a plastic shift seal housing, but the line makes a pretty sharp 90 up into the mid, then up under the cowling where the “pipe bomb” zip ties vertical. Like BHB does/did, I drilled a small hole in top, when shit hit the fan (which was WAYYYY less often with the vent kit) you’d see oil making a mess.

 

[Bullhead bully]

View attachment 1062120 not sure if it will work on a plastic shift seal housing, but the line makes a pretty sharp 90 up into the mid, then up under the cowling where the “pipe bomb” zip ties vertical. Like BHB does/did, I drilled a small hole in top, when shit hit the fan (which was WAYYYY less often with the vent kit) you’d see oil making a mess.

That’s the kit! No problems on 400s or 450s. I haven’t had a 400 stay together long enough to be a problem. To many broken shafts along the way. Hopefully now that’s been remedied with the one piece 450 shaft.

 

[HST4ME]

View attachment 1062120 not sure if it will work on a plastic shift seal housing, but the line makes a pretty sharp 90 up into the mid, then up under the cowling where the “pipe bomb” zip ties vertical. Like BHB does/did, I drilled a small hole in top, when shit hit the fan (which was WAYYYY less often with the vent kit) you’d see oil making a mess.

You can buy those fittings in 90 degree.

 

[Fonz69]

I am trying to remember who the manufacturer was. But it was seriously as simple as a PVC pipe with a cap on both ends. Basically a pipe bomb before you drill the 1/16 hole in the top. And then it replaced the upper shifter shaft support housing with a drilled and tapped piece where the oil would come out to vent as it expanded.

Yep mine plugs in just like that, and has the pvc pipe mounted on the powerhead.

 

[Fonz69]

So I was able to save the original jack plate. It was leaking out the top and bottom and the guide bearings were half gone so the plate chewed into the sides and had allot of slop.

I order from McMaster Carr some anti static slippery mystery plastic bars and milled out the rails then added what I removed in the rails to the thickness of the bearing guide material.

Had to mill out the plate from 1/2” to 7/16” then coated it with slip plate graphite and Lucas grease.

Changed out all the o rings in the cylinders and stopped those leaks.

It goes up and down without any slop so now it’s time to fix the leaking pump.

Does anyone have a hookup for hydraulic lines?

 

[HST4ME]

Local Parker store. Good on ya.. not too many able minded people about with the initiative to fix things anymore!

 

[lenmann]

Nice work man!

Which McMaster mystery thermoplastic did you use and how is it retained in the fixed plate?

 

[Fonz69]

Nice work man!

Which McMaster mystery thermoplastic did you use and how is it retained in the fixed plate?

UHMW Polyetheline bar stock

its retained with the original stops at the bottom that go through. Also the frame of the plate won’t let it slide out.

 

[stoker2001]

Love the craftmansip WTG

 

[Backlash]

Badass!! Nice job Sir!

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Local Parker store. Good on ya.. not too many able minded people about with the initiative to fix things anymore!

^^^What he said^^^

I got the fittings for my steering lines at the Parker store across town from you. They wouldn't put them on my hoses though. The NAPA in Plainfield did that.

If the Parker store in Stevens Point doesn't want to deal with you, PM HeadlessHula and get the name of the guy to talk to at NAPA in Plainfield, he was a cool dude and I'll be having him make my next set of lines when I do my setback box.

I've also had stuff made at NEW Hydraulics in Oshkosh. They're timely and do a good job. A tick pricey, but on time.

 

[HST4ME]

Weird. Parker store here makes me anything I want. Most of the time I show up with the boat and cue up fittings so everything looks right.

 

[Fonz69]

I will look into the parker store, I’ve had Napa repair hydraulic lines for me for work on a skid steer before but that was up in Minocqua. I’ll check if the ones near me do it also.

I seen options for pre made lines from marine industries west also. These are all -4an size lines I believe though just trying to justify $500 for lines

Trim Tab Lines & Kits - Marine Industries West

Marine Industries West, Dana Marine, Dana Marine Products, Dana Marine Parts, Dana Marine Billet Parts, Dana Marine Billet Hardware, Boat Billet

www.marineindustrieswest.com

 

[Boatmaster]

I have a couple 300 Pro Max full dress powerheads if your interested.

 

[HST4ME]

The 275 pro max is a far cry from the X.

 

[Fonz69]

I have a couple 300 Pro Max full dress powerheads if your interested.

Thanks, the plan is to take what I have to HST4ME and have it put back together with a few upgrades.

 

[Fonz69]

Slow but steady progress. I’m amazed what some people think passes for wiring. Typical thing I have seen in the past boat rebuilds is the use of machine screws through the fiberglass side with a zip tie. Might work great for awhile but bounce around on the water and those zip ties break and now the wires are laying on top of the machine screw rubbing the insulation off.
Anyway made some wiring progress and cleanup of the oily mess in the bilge. Had to cut out the rotted center panel and the bolts to the ski bar were toast so thinking about reglassing a new one back in or possibly an aluminum brace up top.

New wheel but wanted to keep the original Eliminator center.

So when I bough the boat one of the previous owners removed the factory shifter and installed a terrible looking Quicksilver shifter which when removed I found the original location for the kill switch…

So I ordered some new gauges and moved the depth finder where the hour meter was and moved the hour meter to where the kill switch was relocated. Had to drill the hole a little larger but looks better now.

Before I’m done the carpet will be replaced so I’m not overly concerned with tools and mess all over it.

Again a previous owner drilled a monster hole in the deck above the speedometer for the cable to the GPS receiver

There was also 4 screws where a previous chart plotter was mounted so my plan here is to make a plate and run the new GPS receiver under and out the front along with a power cable to a Ram mount that will hold my phone for mapping. It might not be the best but better then leaving the holes. More to come on that later.

Jack plate wiring repair, the butt connectors used before were green from corrosion and fell apart when I removed the duct tape wrap….

Now it’s fixed.

Trying to figure out the best layout in the bilge for the new fuel pump and valve box, batteries, trim pumps….allot of fun in a little space.

One step at a time.

 

[Backlash]

Brother I feel your pain!

 

[lake p.a.l.]

I'm impressed with your knowledge & enthusiasm