HydroSkreamin
StressEliminator
- Joined
- Jan 12, 2014
- Messages
- 2,105
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- 5,654
If you think you might want to 'glas those holes shut, give me a jingle and I'll come up and give you a tutorial...
Nice work so far!
Nice work so far!
That would be great!If you think you might want to 'glas those holes shut, give me a jingle and I'll come up and give you a tutorial...
Nice work so far!
Thanks for the compliment, here is the link to my last project.I'm impressed with your knowledge & enthusiasm
I have the same plates on my 21. Let me see if I can dig up some pics. Great job so far.This is not my boat but a similar year with similar setback brackets and what I’m seeing are the missing plates against the transom.
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That guy needs to buy some soap.This is not my boat but a similar year with similar setback brackets and what I’m seeing are the missing plates against the transom.
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Looks like they still also charge $250 to ship.Look on Taco rub rails site
Maybe you could grab me a few pieces too?Fuck me. Looks like I will be stopping there when I go to Florida in February for what I need.
Weird how they have the kickers spread to outside,not on the inside stringers. seems like wider would not support the transom as well. With a 500 pound beast hanging,Slow but steady progress. I’m amazed what some people think passes for wiring. Typical thing I have seen in the past boat rebuilds is the use of machine screws through the fiberglass side with a zip tie. Might work great for awhile but bounce around on the water and those zip ties break and now the wires are laying on top of the machine screw rubbing the insulation off.
Anyway made some wiring progress and cleanup of the oily mess in the bilge. Had to cut out the rotted center panel and the bolts to the ski bar were toast so thinking about reglassing a new one back in or possibly an aluminum brace up top.
New wheel but wanted to keep the original Eliminator center.
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So when I bough the boat one of the previous owners removed the factory shifter and installed a terrible looking Quicksilver shifter which when removed I found the original location for the kill switch…
So I ordered some new gauges and moved the depth finder where the hour meter was and moved the hour meter to where the kill switch was relocated. Had to drill the hole a little larger but looks better now.
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Before I’m done the carpet will be replaced so I’m not overly concerned with tools and mess all over it.
Again a previous owner drilled a monster hole in the deck above the speedometer for the cable to the GPS receiver
There was also 4 screws where a previous chart plotter was mounted so my plan here is to make a plate and run the new GPS receiver under and out the front along with a power cable to a Ram mount that will hold my phone for mapping. It might not be the best but better then leaving the holes. More to come on that later.
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Jack plate wiring repair, the butt connectors used before were green from corrosion and fell apart when I removed the duct tape wrap….
Now it’s fixed.
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Trying to figure out the best layout in the bilge for the new fuel pump and valve box, batteries, trim pumps….allot of fun in a little space.
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One step at a time.
Not sure how it will handle as I’ve never driven it but the previous owner said he took it over 100 mph a few times so it should be capable. I haven’t decided on where the batteries will sit but I might put them back along the stringers where they were last.Also another problem with the weight of a 300, I had a 12 inch set back on my stoker. I went from a 250 blackmax to a 300. The boat went bonkers on the balance. I changed to a 4 inch setback and the boat handles again.
Those plates are meant to distribute the weight of the motor more equally on the transom cause the jackplate is so narrow, you want to put them back on there or make some if yours doesn’t have any…where did you get that picture btw???…that is my old 21’…had a 300x on it, I got it to 118mph, boat was an animalThis is not my boat but a similar year with similar setback brackets and what I’m seeing are the missing plates against the transom.
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I’ve been picture searching all over since I bought the boat to understand rigging layout for an outboard and how eliminator had done it from the factory.Those plates are meant to distribute the weight of the motor more equally on the transom cause the jackplate is so narrow, you want to put them back on there or make some if yours doesn’t have any…where did you get that picture btw???…that is my old 21’…had a 300x on it, I got it to 118mph, boat was an animal
Thanks, I learn by seeing what others have done and in the process try to learn from their success or failures. I hope by me posting up the build will help others with their project and inspire more people to restore older boats.Thank you for taking us along on this build. I admire your work
Not really sure where eliminator had them but when I got the boat someone siliconed plastic battery boxes behind the rear seat on top of the tunnels. I’ve seen several other 21 OB Daytona‘s have them mounted on the sides like I plan to have them. Hope it works, the amount that the seats weigh in the front it should overcome any differences. If I was going for all out speed I would scrap the interior and go carbon fiber shells like my race boat but this honestly only needs to pull tubes, go 60 mph and I’m goodIs that where the batts were mounted originally? I know every outboard is very weight/CG sensitive. Very cool you have family helping you
So I was able to mount both trim pumps and swap out both fuel sending units today.
Replaced the rusty old bracket for the jack plate pump with a new stainless version and moved the pump more to the center as the battery now takes its spot.
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Cleaned up and painted the rusty trim pump bracket for the trim.
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Pump needed some cleanup and terminals had corrosion on them.
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Mounted back where it was.
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Since I’m taking advice from a church member who is going to fix my 300 to switch to a return type fuel system I had to have returns to the tanks….found these trick senders that incorporate a return in the sender which should work out nice. The one tank was not reading fuel level right so it was a good time to swap them out anyway.
Temporary brass plug is where the return will go into.
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Both boys were in the shop helping today, believe me it’s great to see them put down the tablets and pick up some tools.That's awesome that you are including your little boy! Man I would do that at every single opportunity you can!! I've enjoyed following along with your thread. Keep up the work Sir!
Noted, there was plenty of nasty green crusty wiring I’ve been throwing away. All the new wire is marine tinz wire.It all looks great and well thought out. My only suggestion moving forward is that you use heat shrink connectors on all of the wiring especially on the fuel sender. They tend to fail quite often with the slightest amount of corrosion. I love these build threads.
My senders don't read the greatest, but I do not have hardly any room above them to lift them out. Yours look a little different. Anymore pics?So I was able to mount both trim pumps and swap out both fuel sending units today.
Replaced the rusty old bracket for the jack plate pump with a new stainless version and moved the pump more to the center as the battery now takes its spot.
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Cleaned up and painted the rusty trim pump bracket for the trim.
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Pump needed some cleanup and terminals had corrosion on them.
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Mounted back where it was.
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Since I’m taking advice from a church member who is going to fix my 300 to switch to a return type fuel system I had to have returns to the tanks….found these trick senders that incorporate a return in the sender which should work out nice. The one tank was not reading fuel level right so it was a good time to swap them out anyway.
Temporary brass plug is where the return will go into.
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Very clean setup!View attachment 1070281
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These are how my batteries are set, but it is a totally different set up with twins. Also, here are my fuel lines at the rear of the tanks and I also added a vent line at the front and it was already plumbed but plugged. Weldon is very specific in stating you have to run dedicated vents and not just rely on fuel cap vents.
For the price of what they want to ship new I’d take whatever I can find and paint it if needed.The marina around the corner has a bunch of junk boats. Might be some trim on one of those if you just want silver.
My buddy has a powder coat shop down the road too if you need anything done. This weekend I'll poke around the marina and see what I can find. I need some rub rail for a not so perfect project too and no way I am paying that kind of shipping for two sticks of rail.For the price of what they want to ship new I’d take whatever I can find and paint it if needed.
Mocked up the lower to see where it landed, I zeroed out my level on the keel then matched the prop shaft to that degree and measured down. Currently it sits 3 5/8” below the keel to center of shaft. The jack plate raises up 4 1/4” so it comes close to ending up at the center of my drain plug in the hull.