WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

First OB 21 Daytona

HydroSkreamin

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If you think you might want to 'glas those holes shut, give me a jingle and I'll come up and give you a tutorial...;)

Nice work so far!
 

Fonz69

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I'm impressed with your knowledge & enthusiasm
Thanks for the compliment, here is the link to my last project.
I learned allot from that build.

 

Fonz69

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So I try to manage each day and balance work, family and boat fun which usually means I get 45 min to an hour after I get home to work on the boat so tonight was a quick removal of the registration decals on the windshield and the sides. Little more fun taking them off a vinyl wrap.
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Also after looking at other pics of similar year 21 OB Daytona’s I have seen a wider thin plate mounted first on the transom under the setback plate. I could see an impression in the glass so I’m betting that this one had them at some point. To me it makes sense as the current setback billet plates would seem to dig into the hull and a wider 3” backer plate would support it better. I ordered some material to make similar plates which should be in this week.
Also peeled back where the setback plate sits to reveal the purple to pink original gel coat under the wrap.
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Fonz69

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This is not my boat but a similar year with similar setback brackets and what I’m seeing are the missing plates against the transom.
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Fonz69

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Does anyone have a hookup for the original anodized aluminum trim that Eliminator used around the bottom of the dash?

When the dash was wrapped they removed it.

I see Rex Marine sells it but I almost had a heart attack when I seen the potential shipping costs 😲 I can deal with the $60 each but $200-$300 to ship….

Trim I‘m describing is similar to what my stealth has.

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HST4ME

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Fuck me. Looks like I will be stopping there when I go to Florida in February for what I need.
 

instagator

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Slow but steady progress. I’m amazed what some people think passes for wiring😳. Typical thing I have seen in the past boat rebuilds is the use of machine screws through the fiberglass side with a zip tie. Might work great for awhile but bounce around on the water and those zip ties break and now the wires are laying on top of the machine screw rubbing the insulation off.😡
Anyway made some wiring progress and cleanup of the oily mess in the bilge. Had to cut out the rotted center panel and the bolts to the ski bar were toast so thinking about reglassing a new one back in or possibly an aluminum brace up top.

New wheel but wanted to keep the original Eliminator center.
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So when I bough the boat one of the previous owners removed the factory shifter and installed a terrible looking Quicksilver shifter which when removed I found the original location for the kill switch…

So I ordered some new gauges and moved the depth finder where the hour meter was and moved the hour meter to where the kill switch was relocated. Had to drill the hole a little larger but looks better now.
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Before I’m done the carpet will be replaced so I’m not overly concerned with tools and mess all over it.

Again a previous owner drilled a monster hole in the deck above the speedometer for the cable to the GPS receiver 🤦🏻‍♂️

There was also 4 screws where a previous chart plotter was mounted so my plan here is to make a plate and run the new GPS receiver under and out the front along with a power cable to a Ram mount that will hold my phone for mapping. It might not be the best but better then leaving the holes. More to come on that later.

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Jack plate wiring repair, the butt connectors used before were green from corrosion and fell apart when I removed the duct tape wrap….

Now it’s fixed.
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Trying to figure out the best layout in the bilge for the new fuel pump and valve box, batteries, trim pumps….allot of fun in a little space.
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One step at a time.
Weird how they have the kickers spread to outside,not on the inside stringers. seems like wider would not support the transom as well. With a 500 pound beast hanging,
I would add a little more support from the inside stringers as well.
 

instagator

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Also another problem with the weight of a 300, I had a 12 inch set back on my stoker. I went from a 250 blackmax to a 300. The boat went bonkers on the balance. I changed to a 4 inch setback and the boat handles again.
 

Fonz69

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Also another problem with the weight of a 300, I had a 12 inch set back on my stoker. I went from a 250 blackmax to a 300. The boat went bonkers on the balance. I changed to a 4 inch setback and the boat handles again.
Not sure how it will handle as I’ve never driven it but the previous owner said he took it over 100 mph a few times so it should be capable. I haven’t decided on where the batteries will sit but I might put them back along the stringers where they were last.
 

Fonz69

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Had some time before the overeating begins today and worked on a little wiring and made the plate to cover the holes on top the dash.
I used the previous 4 mount holes from what I’m guessing was a depth/chart plotter.
Picked up a RAM mount to hold my phone for mapping along with a spot for the GPS antenna receiver to attach.
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Cut a groove in the bottom to chase the phone charger and gps antenna thru the stupid large hole someone thought was a good idea to drill in the deck.

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Countersunk a fastener and washer for the antenna to mount to as the base is magnetic.
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Little primer and paint and seems like it will work.
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Also installed the new shifter which lined right up where Eliminator originally had it instead of the quicksilver monstrosity.
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Fonz69

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Todays fun was replacing the nasty plastic fuel fill trim rings with aluminum ones.
I see Marine Industries West sells some very nice trim rings similar to what I need to make however they are about 1/2” too large to clear the sides of the boat where the original holes were drilled into the hull.
Ordered 2 plates 1/8” thick from McMaster Carr for $12 so it’s mostly my time to build them now.
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Cutting the center hole out first.
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Finally got to play with my turn table on the Bridgeport.
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Rough cut and put a rounded edge on them.
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Center holes drilled.
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Perimeter holes drilled out to match existing holes in hull, which unfortunately were not exactly symmetrical but close.
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Old nasty plastic vs clean freshly enameled aluminum.
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And installed.
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So maybe later I will replace the caps with new anodized ones as these are faded but that’s an easy fix later.
 

blue wonder

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This is not my boat but a similar year with similar setback brackets and what I’m seeing are the missing plates against the transom.
View attachment 1067076
Those plates are meant to distribute the weight of the motor more equally on the transom cause the jackplate is so narrow, you want to put them back on there or make some if yours doesn’t have any…where did you get that picture btw???…that is my old 21’…had a 300x on it, I got it to 118mph, boat was an animal
 

Fonz69

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Those plates are meant to distribute the weight of the motor more equally on the transom cause the jackplate is so narrow, you want to put them back on there or make some if yours doesn’t have any…where did you get that picture btw???…that is my old 21’…had a 300x on it, I got it to 118mph, boat was an animal
I’ve been picture searching all over since I bought the boat to understand rigging layout for an outboard and how eliminator had done it from the factory.
 

Fonz69

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Thank you for taking us along on this build. I admire your work
Thanks, I learn by seeing what others have done and in the process try to learn from their success or failures. I hope by me posting up the build will help others with their project and inspire more people to restore older boats.
 

Fonz69

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Todays fun was trying to complete the re wiring and work my way back to start figuring out where I’m putting everything.

I used the plastic conduit again like I did in the race boat to protect the power wires for the amp that was in the boat. Upgraded the wire to 4 gauge though in case there is any amp changes when the cheap Pyle Amp calls it quits.
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Going to keep the amp that came with the boat but cleaned up the rats nest wiring for a little piece of mind.
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Youngest boy helped me pick out the new head unit at our local stereo shop. Just wanted to make sure I could stream music off my phone but he liked the color….he’s 6 so I’ll cut him some slack.😅
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So I committed to having the batteries on the sides and the trim pumps on the opposite face. Probably will hang the battery tender that came with the boat off the transom on the starboard side.
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lake p.a.l.

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Is that where the batts were mounted originally? I know every outboard is very weight/CG sensitive. Very cool you have family helping you
 

Fonz69

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Is that where the batts were mounted originally? I know every outboard is very weight/CG sensitive. Very cool you have family helping you
Not really sure where eliminator had them but when I got the boat someone siliconed plastic battery boxes behind the rear seat on top of the tunnels. I’ve seen several other 21 OB Daytona‘s have them mounted on the sides like I plan to have them. Hope it works, the amount that the seats weigh in the front it should overcome any differences. If I was going for all out speed I would scrap the interior and go carbon fiber shells like my race boat but this honestly only needs to pull tubes, go 60 mph and I’m good😎
 

Fonz69

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So I was able to mount both trim pumps and swap out both fuel sending units today.
Replaced the rusty old bracket for the jack plate pump with a new stainless version and moved the pump more to the center as the battery now takes its spot.
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Cleaned up and painted the rusty trim pump bracket for the trim.
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Pump needed some cleanup and terminals had corrosion on them.
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Mounted back where it was.
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Since I’m taking advice from a church member who is going to fix my 300 to switch to a return type fuel system I had to have returns to the tanks….found these trick senders that incorporate a return in the sender which should work out nice. The one tank was not reading fuel level right so it was a good time to swap them out anyway.
Temporary brass plug is where the return will go into.
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Backlash

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So I was able to mount both trim pumps and swap out both fuel sending units today.
Replaced the rusty old bracket for the jack plate pump with a new stainless version and moved the pump more to the center as the battery now takes its spot.
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Cleaned up and painted the rusty trim pump bracket for the trim.
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Pump needed some cleanup and terminals had corrosion on them.
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Mounted back where it was.
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Since I’m taking advice from a church member who is going to fix my 300 to switch to a return type fuel system I had to have returns to the tanks….found these trick senders that incorporate a return in the sender which should work out nice. The one tank was not reading fuel level right so it was a good time to swap them out anyway.
Temporary brass plug is where the return will go into.
View attachment 1069968

That's awesome that you are including your little boy! Man I would do that at every single opportunity you can!! I've enjoyed following along with your thread. Keep up the work Sir!
 

Fonz69

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That's awesome that you are including your little boy! Man I would do that at every single opportunity you can!! I've enjoyed following along with your thread. Keep up the work Sir!
Both boys were in the shop helping today, believe me it’s great to see them put down the tablets and pick up some tools. 👍🏻

They helped on the race boat build also.

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sonicss31

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It all looks great and well thought out. My only suggestion moving forward is that you use heat shrink connectors on all of the wiring especially on the fuel sender. They tend to fail quite often with the slightest amount of corrosion. I love these build threads. ;)
 

Fonz69

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It all looks great and well thought out. My only suggestion moving forward is that you use heat shrink connectors on all of the wiring especially on the fuel sender. They tend to fail quite often with the slightest amount of corrosion. I love these build threads. ;)
Noted, there was plenty of nasty green crusty wiring I’ve been throwing away. All the new wire is marine tinz wire.
 

Duramax

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So I was able to mount both trim pumps and swap out both fuel sending units today.
Replaced the rusty old bracket for the jack plate pump with a new stainless version and moved the pump more to the center as the battery now takes its spot.
View attachment 1069955
View attachment 1069956
Cleaned up and painted the rusty trim pump bracket for the trim.
View attachment 1069961
Pump needed some cleanup and terminals had corrosion on them.
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View attachment 1069966
Mounted back where it was.
View attachment 1069967
Since I’m taking advice from a church member who is going to fix my 300 to switch to a return type fuel system I had to have returns to the tanks….found these trick senders that incorporate a return in the sender which should work out nice. The one tank was not reading fuel level right so it was a good time to swap them out anyway.
Temporary brass plug is where the return will go into.
View attachment 1069968
My senders don't read the greatest, but I do not have hardly any room above them to lift them out. Yours look a little different. Anymore pics?
 

Duramax

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antigravity.jpg

fuel2.jpg


fuel line.jpg

These are how my batteries are set, but it is a totally different set up with twins. Also, here are my fuel lines at the rear of the tanks and I also added a vent line at the front and it was already plumbed but plugged. Weldon is very specific in stating you have to run dedicated vents and not just rely on fuel cap vents.
 

Fonz69

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View attachment 1070281
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These are how my batteries are set, but it is a totally different set up with twins. Also, here are my fuel lines at the rear of the tanks and I also added a vent line at the front and it was already plumbed but plugged. Weldon is very specific in stating you have to run dedicated vents and not just rely on fuel cap vents.
Very clean setup!
My tanks only had 1 pickup tube and are vented thru the cap. I’m probably going to install the aeromotive 750 pump. Hopefully the vents will be enough for that pump, I could drill a few more in the cap copying what they did already.
I tossed the old senders but the top half was only a few inches deep then you turn it sideways and pull the rod and float out with it.
My goal is to get this thing in the water this spring and go from there. If it works out nice for the family then later on the wrap might come off and a full strip down restoration might be in order. After what I stuck in the last project I need to pump the brakes a little and repair what needs to be and make it reliable to use.
 

Fonz69

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Dash is starting to look better. Still missing the bottom trim that was taken off when they did the vinyl wrap. I’m guessing it was purple similar to the gauge trim rings I found behind the gauges behind the dash to act as spacers….
In my opinion the dash needs the trim back on.
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HST4ME

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The marina around the corner has a bunch of junk boats. Might be some trim on one of those if you just want silver.
 

Fonz69

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The marina around the corner has a bunch of junk boats. Might be some trim on one of those if you just want silver.
For the price of what they want to ship new I’d take whatever I can find and paint it if needed.
 

HST4ME

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For the price of what they want to ship new I’d take whatever I can find and paint it if needed.
My buddy has a powder coat shop down the road too if you need anything done. This weekend I'll poke around the marina and see what I can find. I need some rub rail for a not so perfect project too and no way I am paying that kind of shipping for two sticks of rail.
 

Fonz69

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More fun in the shop today and actually had both boys back at it again, the oldest was out there probably a full 8 hrs😅
Found some left over tile edge metal I had and I think it actually looks decent.
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I fasten it on the bottom and cut out the back to make the radius.
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Boys cleaned up the old aluminum supports for the setback plates and we primed and painted them along with some modifications and paint for the foot throttle. Wasn’t really sure if I would like this pedal but for how much they want for new ones I will modify it and make it work for now.
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Also replaced the drain plugs with the captive drain type like I’ve done on the last 3 boats. They just make sense so you won’t loose your plug and have a cleaner look then the rubber plug.
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Fonz69

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Braces are back in place and the pedal is back together with the added bracket to mount it to the stringer better then the hardware store rusty steel brackets previously.
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So the nylon roller was shot and I figured there must be a better way. After some searching on McMaster Carr I found a bearing that fit and now the pedal moves smooth.
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Plates are rough cut for the missing setback spacers.
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Fonz69

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Finished up replicating the missing spacer plates and finally was able to reinstall the setback plate. It ends up 12” from the transom.
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Found a new location for the battery tender also.
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Installed the 3 new bilge dumps since the original ones were severely corroded.
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Fonz69

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Ordered up some decals for the front and the kids came up with a name for the boat.
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I didn’t like the Allen head bolts holding the plate rams so a little upgrade was in order today.
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So when I cut out what was left of the rotted wood in the bilge I really didn’t want to put wood back in so I rigged up an aluminum bracket that supported the ski pole and also provides support for the oil tank.
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The original mounts were rusted steel so I made up a couple quick replacements out of aluminum.
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This is just mock-up but it’s a start. Still need to do some fiberglass Touchup to seal some exposed areas.
 

Fltplan

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Nice work, you’re going to love the 21’ Daytona with a big outboard. Best riding boat around.
 

Fonz69

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Few steps closer.
Some fiberglass repair on the old holes in the transom and sealing up where I removed the ski pole base plate in the bilge.
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Was a good feeling to start mounting parts back on the jack plate.
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So the bolt that was in the steering arm didn’t look the best so I ordered a new one and was glad to see it was made by ARP
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New anode as the other one was broke in two.
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Wired the batteries in and installed a new Perko switch.
all the connections are new and heat shrinked on the ends.
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Mocked up the lower to see where it landed, I zeroed out my level on the keel then matched the prop shaft to that degree and measured down. Currently it sits 3 5/8” below the keel to center of shaft. The jack plate raises up 4 1/4” so it comes close to ending up at the center of my drain plug in the hull.
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Bilge coming together.
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Fonz69

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Both trim pumps are back up and running after a stop at Parker Store for some new lines and McMaster Carr for a few fittings.
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At some point the original plug for the tilt switch on the motor corroded and someone tapped in power to bypass it….not going to fly so new weatherpack connector and heat shrink.
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Up next will be carpet, Foot throttle and some interior installations. I’m getting the motor parts ready to take across the pond to have them brought back to life, the end is in site!
 

HydroSkreamin

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Mocked up the lower to see where it landed, I zeroed out my level on the keel then matched the prop shaft to that degree and measured down. Currently it sits 3 5/8” below the keel to center of shaft. The jack plate raises up 4 1/4” so it comes close to ending up at the center of my drain plug in the hull.

You’re probably going to want to mount that mid the rest of the way up. Generally, those 3L cases like being propshaft center 1-1/4” to 1-3/4” above boat bottom.

With the measurements you provided, with jackplate fully raised, propshaft is 5/8” above. Each hole is 3/4”, so raising it will put you at 1-3/8” above at full extension.

Great job on progress!
 
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