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Is Brightside the best "Roll & Tip" paint available in California?

  • Brightside

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Awlgrip

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Easypoxy

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3
  • Poll closed .

miniboatfan

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I would really appreciate some input on DIY boat painting. I have long been a fan of the little boats and recently I bought a Daytona and I have been working on the repairs and prep. I want to do a sound job so I have pretty much stripped it down and I am filling every screw hole in the floor, all dings etc. and I have removed the rub rail and rivits and faired the top and bottom together. It is really starting to shape up.

The problem I have is with the paint. I was going to do the Interlux Perfection and I bought a quart to try it. After reading several reviews I decided to get the other colors I wanted but when I went to the store, I found that Perfection is no longer sold in California due to high VOC.

I am now considering Brightside but I will have to roll and tip because I dont have access to spraying. Does anyone know if you can color sand and buff the Brightside? Any pointers here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dave - Miniboatfan
 

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RiverDave

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I am not a painter by any stretch, point in fact I'm terrible at it.. but I can't imagine any paint being "rolled on" that is going to come out very well at all.

RD
 

Gelcoater

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I would really appreciate some input on DIY boat painting. I have long been a fan of the little boats and recently I bought a Daytona and I have been working on the repairs and prep. I want to do a sound job so I have pretty much stripped it down and I am filling every screw hole in the floor, all dings etc. and I have removed the rub rail and rivits and faired the top and bottom together. It is really starting to shape up.

The problem I have is with the paint. I was going to do the Interlux Perfection and I bought a quart to try it. After reading several reviews I decided to get the other colors I wanted but when I went to the store, I found that Perfection is no longer sold in California due to high VOC.

I am now considering Brightside but I will have to roll and tip because I dont have access to spraying. Does anyone know if you can color sand and buff the Brightside? Any pointers here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Dave - Miniboatfan
I'm not familiar with brightside product,can you post a link?
I think I would either go gelcoat or base/clear automotive type paint.By no access to spray what do you mean? You can pick up a cheap spray gun at harbor freight,i'm talking 15-20 bucks.While it wouldn't be top of the list of guns to make a living with,but to refinish one boat it would be fine.


I am not a painter by any stretch, point in fact I'm terrible at it.. but I can't imagine any paint being "rolled on" that is going to come out very well at all.

RD
any paint? :Dhouse paint?;)

And while one could roll gelcoat,it might take several coats(drying between coats) to get enough build to sand flat,it can be done. The thing is time,the op would be saving several hours if not days spraying once vs rolling several coats,the only up sides to rolling is no over spray,or air tools/comp. to deal with. Either way there will be a butt load of sanding to do after to make it flat.



ps,
Hey Dave,why are you up so early?:eek:
 
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Maw

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Pretty sure the ban on the LP paints (AwlGrip, Perfection, Sterling, etc) affects only Orange and LA counties. You can still get them in San Diego at the West Marines.

Very hard to tell that a boat was painted with a roller compaired to one that's sprayed. Make sure that you use good quality mohair rollers, thin the paint properly, do the painting in the shade on a cooler day so that the paint has a chance to flow out and cure slowly. I don't use the brush to tip out the surface, if thinned properly, and you're patient, it flows out just fine.

Plenty of fresh air is a must!!! The fumes from these paints can mess you up big time so don't plan on painting your boat in a single car apartment garage. Make sure you have space around you and good ventillation.

I've done a truck, 20' Spectra, a couple of Waverunners, our older 33' sportfisher and am starting our 48' sportfisher now (in the slip).

Cheers, Mark
 

Tom Brown

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Do you have a compressor? If so, get a cheap gravity feed gun from Harbor Freight and go at it.

I've been where you are. Since then, I've painted three boats and a few vehicles, as well as a bunch of other stuff. It's not that difficult but it isn't entirely intuitive so it's important to closely follow the directions of an experienced painter and not disregard some of the details, assuming they are unimportant. At least, if you want a good result.

Oddly, I also have a mini-Daytona that I am going to doll up one of these days. I'm looking forward to your project. Please share plenty of pictures.

There are a bunch of tricks to paint that you might not think of.

- get a water separator
- install a 25' piece of hose between the water separator and your compressor so the air has a chance to cool and the condensation can be removed by the water separator
- H-F sells a binks clone gun that works great for me (at least, they used to)
- make sure you strain the paint before shooting

You're going to want to prime that before shooting a top coat.


Rolling isn't a terrible idea, either. Maw is all over that.
 

Buoy

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I've been considering this project myself for my project.
My biggest questions are gun set-up, and proper paint thinning/mix.
I tried spraying the hood of my ex-wifes car years ago, and it didn't come out too pretty.
My boat is a 24 Pantera that I've been putzing with for a few years.
I either have time, or money - just never both at the same time:grumble:
Right now, I have time... But minimal energy...
These pics are from my old place in Kentucky.
And a pic of me and Pepe at the factory in 2008 - the man that built my boat back in 1980.
 

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SHOCKtheMONKEY

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I would try to spray it yourself.....

I had zero experience but I bought a book and tried it my self. Here's the before I painted and did the body work (1992ish) and after (2011 pic from Craigslist).

I used Chevy white so I could touch up the bottom with foo foo cans from the parts store....

Best of luck!
 

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Buoy

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I would try to spray it yourself.....

I had zero experience but I bought a book and tried it my self. Here's the before I painted and did the body work (1992ish) and after (2011 pic from Craigslist).

I used Chevy white so I could touch up the bottom with foo foo cans from the parts store....

Best of luck!
Looks good!
Nice shine on the deck.
 

miniboatfan

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I really appreciate all the input. I was thinking of the roll and tip method because it seems so novice friendly but after reading the threads, I realize that I was going to color sand and buff to bring out a decent finish so there is no risk in trying the spray gun. I think Gelcoater and Tom are on to soimething with the inexpensive sprayer at Harbor Frieght...worst case, I still have to color sand and buff which I was going to do anyway. I may take another project and experiment with the roll and tip because I want the Daytona to look good. I wanted to buy one in 1982 at the Long Beach boat show but never did. Happy to finally have one, now if I can just sell my Monterey 265... By the way, Buoy, I like the 24 Pantera, good luck with it.

Thanks everyone

Dave - Miniboatfan
 

Buoy

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Dave - sorry, didn't mean to "hi-jack" on your thread, but rather consider it a "piggy-back" on your thread.;)
Maybe we can both learn a bit and try similar methods to get our boats back together. With pics of course (I think as I get older, "boat-porn" is just as good as "chick" porn... and when it comes to boat porn, I like the equal to a MILF:D
 

miniboatfan

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Buoy,

Great analogy! I think I will call my Daytona "Mini-Milf". I will keep you posted on what I learn through this....do the same, thanks!

Dave - Miniboatfan
 

Gelcoater

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I really appreciate all the input. I was thinking of the roll and tip method because it seems so novice friendly but after reading the threads, I realize that I was going to color sand and buff to bring out a decent finish so there is no risk in trying the spray gun. I think Gelcoater and Tom are on to soimething with the inexpensive sprayer at Harbor Frieght...worst case, I still have to color sand and buff which I was going to do anyway. I may take another project and experiment with the roll and tip because I want the Daytona to look good. I wanted to buy one in 1982 at the Long Beach boat show but never did. Happy to finally have one, now if I can just sell my Monterey 265... By the way, Buoy, I like the 24 Pantera, good luck with it.

Thanks everyone

Dave - Miniboatfan
Good luck. Post some pics as you go:thumbsup
Re read what Brown said and take note.
Some thing else to consider is tip size of the gun,with gel and epoxy paints you need a larger hole:eek:
 

miniboatfan

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Thanks Gelcoater,

All good advice. I will post some picks as I go. Any input along the way, good or bad, are welcome. That's what I'm really liking about this forum...it can prevent me from making some bad choices that initially seem like good ideas. After all the input I got in this thread, I'm asking myself "Why the heck shouldn't I make the little boat exactly the way I want it. Since it won;t have all the functionality of the bigger boats, i.e. tow tows, speed, etc., it better look, run, and sound good. Have to thank River Dave for that!

Thanks again,

Dave - Miniboatfan
 

miniboatfan

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So here is an update on the mini Daytona project. I had to build up the deck all along the transom nearly a 1/2" to get a good alignment. The goal is to fill and fair the top and bottom and eliminate the need for the rub rail to hide the seem. Sounds easy... In some areas I found I had to take off quite a bit of material. To maintain the integrity, I glassed from the underside.

I had also found that the stem padeye was loose and had been chewing up the glass around it. I cut a hole in the forward bulkhead and just barely was able to reach it. Suprise to find that only one side had a nut on it. There was no nut for the other side and it was a sealed compartment so I guess it was an oversight when it was built. I've also pretty much got the dash back in shape.

To the original point of the string, I've learned that Duratec makes a primer that will cover the old glass and the epoxy resin I used for the repairs and I will still be able to gel coat it.
More to follow....
Thanks for all the input so far.
Miniboatfan
 

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Maw

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To the original point of the string, I've learned that Duratec makes a primer that will cover the old glass and the epoxy resin I used for the repairs and I will still be able to gel coat it.
More to follow....
Thanks for all the input so far.
Miniboatfan
I'd make absolutely sure that the Duratec polyester primer will bond to the epoxy resin before applying. The rule used to be epoxy over polyester, but not vice-versa. Once you use a product like a West Systems epoxy resin in a repair you need to stay with the epoxies for the following layers.

Cheers, Mark
 

miniboatfan

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Thanks Mark. I sent an email to the manufacturer, Hawkeye, and I will post their response. What you mantioned about epoxy over epoxy is what initially made me think of painting instead of gel coating. I would far prefer to go with the new gel coat so I am hoping I get a positive response from the manufacturer.
Thank you - Dave/Miniboatfan
 

miniboatfan

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So I've taken to heart all of the input about coatings and I'm going with gel coat. Unfortunatley I made a big mistake by using epoxy resin which further complicates the gel coat. I have asked around a lot and I've found the Duratech ES Sanding primer will create a decent substrate. I was given pretty specific instruction on testing so I mixed up the Duratech & catalyst and coated the bare epoxy. After it dried I tried "scratching it up" pretty good to test the adhesion. Remarkebly that stuff acts like resin itself. I'm still working in a garage where I can't spray so I rolled it out. I bought it in a gallon can and bought four new quart cans so I could break it up into kits. I was able to coat the deck and sides with one quart (12' boat). I test sanded and it is a little thin so I am going to coat it again and then block it to 150 grit in prep for the gel coat. Now that I have a coat on top, I will flip the boat and give finish the bottom then I will turn it again to finish the top. I figure I can practice on the bottom and any screw-ups from flipping it wont show so bad. Anyway, here are some updated pics. Will be a while before I can do more because I had some foot surgery on Monday.
Best to all,
Dave-Miniboatfan
 

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retaocleg

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gotta love the lines on the beezers!.......good to see it is being resto'd
 

urapnes

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I repainted my Spectra 32 a few years back. Used paint. The painting was easy...the color sanding sucked ass.

Let me know if I can answer any questions.

Joel
 

Ttownminis

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Just checking to see how the daytona's coming along.
I'm going to be starting a daytona build too. I'm trying to decide on the motor. Long shaft or short shaft? 40 or 50??
 

B-rad

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You can't polish Brightside, it is not an LPU just a modified enamel. Dupont Marine Imron is the stuff to use flows great and polishes great.
 

OFFSHORE GINGER

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First off....... Imron is a very wet paint and if you can spray imron you can spray Awlgrip , but the bottom line is seeing that you do not have an air compressor roll and tip is the way to go which will leave you an awsome finished product , and to tell you the truth i have seen boats in the 45 to 60 foot range that are done this way and look like they were sprayed . Just my 2 cents , which is three cents short of a nickel .
 

OFFSHORE GINGER

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You can't polish Brightside, it is not an LPU just a modified enamel. Dupont Marine Imron is the stuff to use flows great and polishes great.
not to debate this subject with you but ...............Imron buff's like a bear after being sanded .
 
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