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Garage floor coating

Firemanjoe

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I have been wanting to redo the garage floor coating for a while now and am ready to pull the trigger. I want something durable and looks good that I can do myself and isn’t too expensive. What is everyone using and what do you like or dislike about it?
 

sirbob

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I'd rent a high end grinder / polisher and take the surface off so it looks like terrazzo floors (expose the ag) possibly cut a pattern in it or put a boarder around the edge (1 - 1.5 ft) then put a nice stain or clear coat on it.

Others will suggest a multi part flake coating that looks cheap to me.

But thats just me...

On the other hand if you don't want to do it yourself - call Surfacing Solutions in Temecula. They do AMAZING floors.
 

Waterjunky

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Spend the weekend on your knees doing tile.

I will actually be doing this in the foreseeable future in my garage. I have a drainage issue that the 1/2" of gain would solve.
 

Tooms22

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My father in law did the epoxy with flakes in our garage. It looks good but the concrete had cracks prior. Three years later, the cracks are showing and coming through the epoxy.

I like it, I just don't know how to avoid the crack issue.
 

Sunset

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I have been wanting to redo the garage floor coating for a while now and am ready to pull the trigger. I want something durable and looks good that I can do myself and isn’t too expensive. What is everyone using and what do you like or dislike about it?
I have been wanting to redo the garage floor coating for a while now and am ready to pull the trigger. I want something durable and looks good that I can do myself and isn’t too expensive. What is everyone using and what do you like or dislike about it?[/QUOTEW
What area are you in? I have done a lot of Acid staining and Epoxy coating . The acid stain is easy to do and not show the tire tracks as epoxy does . http://www.concretesolutionsandsupply.com has rental equipment and product. Any questions PM me.
 

Sunset

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Firemanjoe

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What does your garage floor like like now ? Stains Cracks?

It’s in decent shape now, there a few spots that need to be repaired with some filler but that shouldn’t be too bad.
 

TripleB

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The Hula did four different rooms/floors in my shop, all turned out great
 

SJP

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I have done two floors myself - check out the man cave section. I did Lava Flow and used high quality materials. They have held up amazing, and I think look cool as well. It is pretty hard work and prep is key.

SJP
 

OldSchoolBoats

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I have done two floors myself - check out the man cave section. I did Lava Flow and used high quality materials. They have held up amazing, and I think look cool as well. It is pretty hard work and prep is key.

SJP
Yep! All about it the prep! Didn't know you did your floors DIY.

I prefer to diamond grind, but a good acid wash works good too for prep..

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Joker

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Yep! All about it the prep! Didn't know you did your floors DIY.

I prefer to diamond grind, but a good acid wash works good too for prep..

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He’s really good at it. I wanted him to do mine but his numbers were high.[emoji1303][emoji16]


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Headless hula

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There is no substitution for the prep work. diamond grinding or shot blasting are really the only two acceptable options. To acid etch a floor is a distant third, and only acceptable if its flushed (pressure washed) with water afterward. The acid dissolves the portland, and basically turns to dust that is still present, clogging the very pores of the concrete youre trying to create in the first place. The idea of grinding or shot blasting the surface is to create a surface profile where you can create a mechanical bond between the coating and the concrete. Merely dumping muratic acid on a floor does nothing but break down the surface of the concrete leaving a residue. Unless its power washed afterwards all youve accomplished is to cover your surface with acid residue and dust leaving a surface unfit for coating.
Vacuuming it afterwards will remove some of the dust, but not all. See where im going with just grind the damn thing?

acid works ok on treating oil stains and the like...


as previously mentioned above. its all in the prep.....
 

DRYHEAT

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There is no substitution for the prep work. diamond grinding or shot blasting are really the only two acceptable options. To acid etch a floor is a distant third, and only acceptable if its flushed (pressure washed) with water afterward. The acid dissolves the portland, and basically turns to dust that is still present, clogging the very pores of the concrete youre trying to create in the first place. The idea of grinding or shot blasting the surface is to create a surface profile where you can create a mechanical bond between the coating and the concrete. Merely dumping muratic acid on a floor does nothing but break down the surface of the concrete leaving a residue. Unless its power washed afterwards all youve accomplished is to cover your surface with acid residue and dust leaving a surface unfit for coating.
Vacuuming it afterwards will remove some of the dust, but not all. See where im going with just grind the damn thing?

acid works ok on treating oil stains and the like...


as previously mentioned above. its all in the prep.....
Will you come prep mine for a case of beer? :D
 

Headless hula

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I do a 4 step process, after grinding, it gets a primer coat that's an adhesion promoter, and a sealer. Then a urethane basecoat. While that's still wet, I broadcast vinyl flake to 100% rejection. After that's cured, u vacuum up the remaining flake and apply 2 coats of a clear polyaspartic topcoat. My floors are .100" thick, and my materials are 100% solids. No solvent based materials.
A decent epoxy floor may be .030" thick and isnt anywhere near as chemical or abrasion resistant. Epoxy is brittle and offers no flexibility with cracks or seasonal movement. The urethane and polyaspartic system offers some flexibility and has better adhesion characteristics than an epoxy.

Epoxy coatings are a great product and definitely work great in lots of applications.

The polyaspartic is a literally the best material on the market and will not be outperformed. Especially where U.V. and chemical resistance are important.

You know that little strip outside your garage doors that fades on an epoxy coated floor?
The urethane and polyaspartic system won't look like that over time.
 

CoronaChris

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We make it very easy for the epoxy installer.

Diamond grind, deep clean, apply our direct to concrete epoxy base coat (withstands up to 8-10 lbs of moisture) and throw your flake into wet epoxy and let cure. Once dry scrape and smooth flakes, deep clean and apply Factory 1 polyaspartic clear coat system. Complete system is 15-20 Mils thick, lifetime adhesion warranty on properly prep concrete surface.

Basic product calculation:
Epoxy:
Our Direct to concrete epoxy yields about 200 sq ft per gallon. Give or take 20 sq if the concrete is porous.

Flake:
Take your square foot of your garage and multiply by .12 to get how much flake you need.

Clear coat:
Polyaspartic clear will yield around 185 sq per gallon due to the textured flaked surface.

Estimate $20-30 for rollers, masking tape, brushes, acetone, and other incidentals.

We have a gas powered Edco 10 turbo grinder with vac for rent $150.00 for the day. Home Depot is about $80.00 no vacuum.
 

monkeyswrench

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Question for flooring guys out there...On a fresh pour, How green? Grinding shouldn't be too necessary, but cleaning? What prep? How tough are the polyaspartic clears? Lets add that the flooring may or may not have to endure impacts from wrenches and such, slag from plasma cutters and torches...and maybe a splash of methanol with a dash of nitro. Old types of stuff would pock, chip or pucker and lift.

What you got?:)
 

CoronaChris

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Question for flooring guys out there...On a fresh pour, How green? Grinding shouldn't be too necessary, but cleaning? What prep? How tough are the polyaspartic clears? Lets add that the flooring may or may not have to endure impacts from wrenches and such, slag from plasma cutters and torches...and maybe a splash of methanol with a dash of nitro. Old types of stuff would pock, chip or pucker and lift.

What you got?:)
28 days some say 30 to coat. Like hula stated diamond grind or blast is best for concrete profiling to receive an epoxy coating. New concrete is especially hard and requires more grinding because the skim of the milk or impurities are so fresh. Depending on the epoxy system some are very durable and can take some pretty good impacts from daily shop use. With that being said they are still thin film Coatings that are not a replacement for concrete but to help protect the concrete surface underneath. Kind of like painting your car to protect the metal from the elements and make the surface beautiful. Novolac epoxies are designed to protect surfaces from harsh chemical attacks and are very expensive and hard to apply. I love the crushed quartz systems, very durable, nonskid, attractive and excellent chemical resistance. I recommend wiping any spills as soon as possible to avoid staining and product softening. Weld slag will burn it. Hope this helps. Thanks
 

lbhsbz

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My tenant just put down some "rubber" floor tiles in the garage that look just like the above speckled epoxy. Unless you're paying attention, you can't see the seams. He's outta town right now but I'll get the details on it when he gets back...looks badass. I'd do it in my garage but it (as well as the epoxy) likely wouldn't play nice with hot metal chips landing on it, so I'll stick with concrete for now. Cool thing about the tiles is if one gets fucked up, you pull it up and install another. He had them leftover from a car dealership showroom. They're supposedly fairly bulletproof unless youi're dropping blue hot steel chips on them.
 

DRYHEAT

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What’s the ballpark cost of materials, it looks like I need 10 gallons of clear and 9 gallons of epoxy? Don’t really want to flake, prefer just one solid color. Trying to figure out how much money I’m going to waste if I screw it up. LOL
 

DLC

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I was thinking I would just do a sealer of some sort so I could wipe up spills and not get any stains, I’m not looking for a slick surface when wet... I need to shot / or grind to get rid of existing stains...

Is this durable and long lasting?
 

BassLakeCruiser

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I had really good success w the rustoleum kit from HD. Switched to chrome flakes and did the clear. Very slippery when wet and terrible for traction for pets. In the 4 years I was there I had some slight coloring towards the driveway from UV rays im guessing. Looked amazing and easy to clean and sweep. Planning on doing it again in spring in my current home but undecided on clearing. Makes the garage brighter too.
 

FlyByWire

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IMG_5384.jpg


Wanted to do this so bad in the new Havasu house. Quotes were all in the 4g range. Maybe next time.
 

Firemanjoe

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We make it very easy for the epoxy installer.

Diamond grind, deep clean, apply our direct to concrete epoxy base coat (withstands up to 8-10 lbs of moisture) and throw your flake into wet epoxy and let cure. Once dry scrape and smooth flakes, deep clean and apply Factory 1 polyaspartic clear coat system. Complete system is 15-20 Mils thick, lifetime adhesion warranty on properly prep concrete surface.

Basic product calculation:
Epoxy:
Our Direct to concrete epoxy yields about 200 sq ft per gallon. Give or take 20 sq if the concrete is porous.

Flake:
Take your square foot of your garage and multiply by .12 to get how much flake you need.

Clear coat:
Polyaspartic clear will yield around 185 sq per gallon due to the textured flaked surface.

Estimate $20-30 for rollers, masking tape, brushes, acetone, and other incidentals.

We have a gas powered Edco 10 turbo grinder with vac for rent $150.00 for the day. Home Depot is about $80.00 no vacuum.

My garage is a standard 3 car, roughly 20’X30’. What would be my ballpark cost?
 

MillerTime

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So, what should I do for this? One of my shop buildings has paint or something on the floor that keeps flaking up and looks like crap. It needs to be able to handle constant abuse as it's a body shop. I'd love a light gray or white coating, but I've never seen anything hold up except polished and sealed concrete. I just want something that will mop and clean easy.
Screenshot_20190119-221827_Gallery.jpeg


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CoronaChris

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So, what should I do for this? One of my shop buildings has paint or something on the floor that keeps flaking up and looks like crap. It needs to be able to handle constant abuse as it's a body shop. I'd love a light gray or white coating, but I've never seen anything hold up except polished and sealed concrete. I just want something that will mop and clean easy. View attachment 720510

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Easy money, remove it and reapply. Looks like most of it is gone. HD waterbase shit will come apart on its own. If you like the solid color epoxy we offer a super durable epoxy available in several colors. Darker the better for fade resistance. Need square footage to get you a quote.

Grind to remove existing epoxy.
Clean with vacuum and leaf blower
Apply Factory 1 waterbase sealer, Let dry.
Apply Factory 1 Universal Epoxy, let dry.
Apply Urethane Clear Coat (recommend but not required).
 

CoronaChris

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View attachment 720372

Wanted to do this so bad in the new Havasu house. Quotes were all in the 4g range. Maybe next time.
Most legit contractors will charge $3.50 - $4.25 per sq ft for a fully broadcasted decorative flaked floor sealed with polyaspartic. Do your research and hire a licensed contractor that offers a warranty. Ask for referrals and talk to past customers with 5 -10 year old floors to make you feel comfortable with your investment. The garage is going more mainstream everyday and is becoming a huge part of the household that is not just a dusty dungeon to put your shit. A great investment that adds value to your home.
 

FlyByWire

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Most legit contractors will charge $3.50 - $4.25 per sq ft for a fully broadcasted decorative flaked floor sealed with polyaspartic. Do your research and hire a licensed contractor that offers a warranty. Ask for referrals and talk to past customers with 5 -10 year old floors to make you feel comfortable with your investment. The garage is going more mainstream everyday and is becoming a huge part of the household that is not just a dusty dungeon to put your shit. A great investment that adds value to your home.

Aw man come on I already gave up on it. [emoji23]My wife is really pushing me to get it done. One quote was at $4250 w 5 year no questions asked warranty. A lot to swallow. And yeah we will have a little hang out in the garage. TV/couches etc
 

CoronaChris

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I completed this garage as a demo for a home builder to promote the Factory 1 brand today. This 2 car garage was completed in 1 day. I love helping he small business owner grow and make that money with quality products. Factory 1 is becoming a brand that homeowners can trust and contractors call rely on with quality and pricing.
 

CoronaChris

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Aw man come on I already gave up on it. [emoji23]My wife is really pushing me to get it done. One quote was at $4250 w 5 year no questions asked warranty. A lot to swallow. And yeah we will have a little hang out in the garage. TV/couches etc
How many square feet?
 

CoronaChris

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Lowest quote was 3700 and highest was 4750
Not bad for the quotes if the contractor is putting down a quality product with a warranty against peeling, hot tire pick up etc. Once finished you will tell yourself I should have done this a long time ago. I understand it's the "garage" but it's your mancave well worth the money. Lol
 

monkeyswrench

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Well crap, stuff looks beautiful. Unfortunately my scenario isn't conducive to pretty floors I guess. Building cars for people and lots of fab stuff. If slag will mess it up, and fluids can soften it, guess I'm sticking with concrete:(
 

BamBam

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Well crap, stuff looks beautiful. Unfortunately my scenario isn't conducive to pretty floors I guess. Building cars for people and lots of fab stuff. If slag will mess it up, and fluids can soften it, guess I'm sticking with concrete:(

I'm kind of in the same place with my floors. Weld slag, grinding sparks, plasma slag, etc. I have seen some polished concrete floors that look really good. I just can't justify the money to grind and polish my floors right now. Maybe someday... I did pour my garage floor in black concrete hoping to one day have it polished.

i would like to do a coating on the floor of my enclosed trailer. I have read about some folks that have had good luck using garage type coatings, but I will contact CoronaChris when I'm ready for that. I would guess the prep and steps may be different.
 
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