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JUSTWANNARACE

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Marine power 454. Is there another breaker besides the 50amp?

Put my boat away last season ran great. Pulled it out today, took it and had new tires put on it. Brought it home to get it cleaned up and ready for the season. Wont start. Getting fuel but no spark. Pulled cap and rotor(msd) and nothing. Ohmed out the blaster SS coil, seems ok. Just wondering if there is another fuse or breaker I'm not seeing!

Carb motor if that helps. Pulled bowls, cleaned jets! Getting fuel, even tried some starting fluid!

I'm pretty mechanically savvy and everything seem to test out. I have pulled the cap and the coil terminal look a little warm but like I said it ran fine when I parked it. Even made my ol lady give up some Emery boards to clean everything up.

Hoping its something simple that I'm just missing🤷🏻‍♂️
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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This is one thing I'm not sure of. Off the green wire from the distributor goes to a gray wire in the harness. And has a pigtail coming off of it that I figured might be the issue(from when it got cleaned out at the end of last season) but I cant find any female fitting that would plug into.
 

GRADS

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Check the kill switch (lanyard).
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I guess, is there another surge protector or fuse I'm not seeing that might cause this?
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Just throwing some things out there- neutral safety switch, lanyard switch


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It's a 2001 carrara 205 elite jet so no neutral switch or lanyard
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Here is a pic of the green pigtail.
20210417_184853.jpg
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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That's sig material right there!😂

I'll be the first to tell you my boat is slow! 67mph on gps all day everyday! But for the ones that laugh, I ask if they want to hit the river and fallow me! To this day there is only 2 people willing to run a prop boat where we go, one is @n2otoofast4u and one is our buddy Dean that will run his outboard damn near anywhere someone is willing to take a jet🤣
 

monkeyswrench

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My friend's Carrera had a small "fuse block", maybe a 4 place, against the transom near the battery box. His was a 96 though.
 

bigriver48

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I’ve seen the oil pressure switch (not the oil pressure sender) do the same thing as you’re describing. If the oil level is good, jump the switch, I think it’s on an oil line, 3 pin connector. Not sure if this helps, the oil pressure switch may control the fuel pump, can’t remember .


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JUSTWANNARACE

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My friend's Carrera had a small "fuse block", maybe a 4 place, against the transom near the battery box. His was a 96 though.

I have checked every fuse from under the dash to all the inlines!

I'm thinking maybe the coil or cap took a shit at this point🤷🏻‍♂️
 

Woodie

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Are you getting 12v to the MSD box. Had this issue before. Called MSD and they have a procedure to test their coil. Not like a standard coil. Had no spark at plugs, turned out to be their MSD box.
 

monkeyswrench

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I have checked every fuse from under the dash to all the inlines!

I'm thinking maybe the coil or cap took a shit at this point🤷🏻‍♂️
Did you have the batteries disconnected? I know I've missed a ring terminal before. Just seems odd the ign system taking a dump sitting. Are you getting 12v out back?
 

Mototrig

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Marine power 454. Is there another breaker besides the 50amp?

Put my boat away last season ran great. Pulled it out today, took it and had new tires put on it. Brought it home to get it cleaned up and ready for the season. Wont start. Getting fuel but no spark. Pulled cap and rotor(msd) and nothing. Ohmed out the blaster SS coil, seems ok. Just wondering if there is another fuse or breaker I'm not seeing!

Carb motor if that helps. Pulled bowls, cleaned jets! Getting fuel, even tried some starting fluid!

I'm pretty mechanically savvy and everything seem to test out. I have pulled the cap and the coil terminal look a little warm but like I said it ran fine when I parked it. Even made my ol lady give up some Emery boards to clean everything up.

Hoping its something simple that I'm just missing🤷🏻‍♂️
I went through this exact issue 2 weeks ago. MSD ignition system no spark. Turned out to be a loose wire connector off the distributor.

X2 Jumper the oil switch?
 

ElAzul

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Get rid of that shitty Exide battery while yore at it :)
 

dspracing

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I had a boat in the past where I would have to wiggle one of the two wires on the rear of the distributor if the boat sat for any length of time.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I went through this exact issue 2 weeks ago. MSD ignition system no spark. Turned out to be a loose wire connector off the distributor.

X2 Jumper the oil switch?

Jumper the oil switch? Enlighten me on this. I'm assuming you mean this gizmo

20210417_223621.jpg
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Did you have the batteries disconnected? I know I've missed a ring terminal before. Just seems odd the ign system taking a dump sitting. Are you getting 12v out back?

No batteries have been hooked up.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Are you getting 12v to the MSD box. Had this issue before. Called MSD and they have a procedure to test their coil. Not like a standard coil. Had no spark at plugs, turned out to be their MSD box.

No msd box just distributor and blaster SS coil
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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Just frustrating, this thing has been flawless for the last 5yrs I've owned it. Put it away at the end of the season and fires right up when I pull it out. The ol lady wants to go out tomorrow cause our first good weather of the season. And the fucker wont start!

I'll get back at it in the morning. Has to be something simple cause it ran fine when I parked it.
 

rivermobster

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Just frustrating, this thing has been flawless for the last 5yrs I've owned it. Put it away at the end of the season and fires right up when I pull it out. The ol lady wants to go out tomorrow cause our first good weather of the season. And the fucker wont start!

I'll get back at it in the morning. Has to be something simple cause it ran fine when I parked it.

So you Do have battery voltage at the coil positive terminal, While it's cranking, correct?
 
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SKIDMARC

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Just frustrating, this thing has been flawless for the last 5yrs I've owned it. Put it away at the end of the season and fires right up when I pull it out. The ol lady wants to go out tomorrow cause our first good weather of the season. And the fucker wont start!

I'll get back at it in the morning. Has to be something simple cause it ran fine when I parked it.

Maybe a loose or bad spark plug wire?

Sucks when this happens. Good luck!
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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So you Do have 12v at the coil positive terminal, While it's cranking, correct?

Yes. I honestly think the cap is fukt. The coil terminal doesnt "spring" a little like it should in my opinion. I even pulled it out of the cap and tried to clean it up but it just doesnt seem right. Not sure how to test that to be honest.

Or a fukn mouse chewed a wire somewhere. But it cranks fine, coil seems to test ok according to what I read on msd. But still no little blue kernel at the plugs!

Gonna see if I can find a cap and rotor somewhere in the morning(haha🤣) pretty sure napa or autozone dont carry those.
 

rivermobster

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Yes. I honestly think the cap is fukt. The coil terminal doesnt "spring" a little like it should in my opinion. I even pulled it out of the cap and tried to clean it up but it just doesnt seem right. Not sure how to test that to be honest.

Or a fukn mouse chewed a wire somewhere. But it cranks fine, coil seems to test ok according to what I read on msd. But still no little blue kernel at the plugs!

Gonna see if I can find a cap and rotor somewhere in the morning(haha🤣) pretty sure napa or autozone dont carry those.

The rotor is turning while you are cranking it? What kind of ready to run distributor is it?
 

rivermobster

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Good idea!!
I will check that in the morning.

Ok...

If you do have spark, and the distributor is wired to the positive side of the coil so it has battery voltage as well, your distributor probably took a dump. No surprise with MSD.

If you don't get a spark, gonna say the coil is bad.

The above is all based on you having battery voltage to the coil and distributor for testing AND during cranking as well.

Good luck!
 

rivermobster

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P.S. Make sure you have 12.7 volts at the battery first thing in the morning. That would indicate a fully charged battery.

You might also wanna run a jumper wire directly to the positive side of the coil from the positive side of the battery and see if that changes anything.

If it does, now we have a whole different problem.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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P.S. Make sure you have 12.7 volts at the battery first thing in the morning. That would indicate a fully charged battery.

You might also wanna run a jumper wire directly to the positive side of the coil from the positive side of the battery and see if that changes anything.

If it does, now we have a whole different problem.

Battery is on the charger now just to make sure.

A buddy suggested the same thing about the jumper, I tried it and didn't do anything
 

Mototrig

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Jumper the oil switch? Enlighten me on this. I'm assuming you mean this gizmo

View attachment 993492
Rather than jumper I'll tell you how to check the switch instead.
Watch your oil gauge, after 5 seconds of cranking you should have 2-3# oil pressure.
Pull the gizmo connector, put your meter leads on the switch terminals while cranking, the switch should close. With 3 terminals it shouldn't take but a few lead combinations to find 0.00 ohms while cranking. If the switch doesn't close, bad switch.
 
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Mototrig

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Battery is on the charger now just to make sure.

A buddy suggested the same thing about the jumper, I tried it and didn't do anything
Ahh I just saw this. Disregard checking the oil switch
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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So I have 12.7 at the battery
I have 12.7 at the coil with the key on
I have .7ohms at the connectors
I have 4.7k ohms from the positive to the coil wire.
So I'm thinking the coil is good.
 

JUSTWANNARACE

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I have 12.7 at the red wire to the distributor but it drops to 9.9 while turning over
 

SBMech

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Right off Holley's webpage....

Another popular distributor is the Ready-to-Run line. These distributors are easily identified by the three pin connector that has a Red, Orange and Black wire. In some models, there will be a separate Green wire that is used for a tachometer signal wire. These distributors do not require and external ignition control as they have a built-in high output ignition module.

To check the Ready-to-Run Distributor, confirm that there are 12 volts on the Red wire when the key is On and while cranking. It is important to confirm 12-volts during cranking as many older vehicles may have resistor wiring or ballast resistors inline which could affect the voltage needed to fire the ignition.

You can also check for 12 volts on the coil negative – remember, this is only on the Ready-to-Run distributors! Also, confirm that the black wire is properly grounded to the engine block.

Sounds like maybe your module took a dump?
 

SBMech

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I have 12.7 at the red wire to the distributor but it drops to 9.9 while turning over

Jumper a hot wire from the battery to the distributor positive, most electronics and relays stop working properly when system voltage drops below 10v.

Possible battery failing or starter, drawing too much amps.
 
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