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Help with an Oldsmobile 455

redone76

redone76

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IMG_4480.jpeg

While refreshing the 455 in the Spectra 18 I bought a while ago I just broke one of the #1 main bearing cap bolts. Anyone have a couple good used ones laying around they want to part with?? I know I can go ARP but I'd like to keep the factory stud bolts so I can use the Dooley windage tray. RDP always comes through!!!
 
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clark

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redone76 said:
View attachment 1408186
While refreshing the 455 in the Spectra 18 I bought a while ago I just broke one of the #1 main bearing cap bolts. Anyone have a couple good used ones laying around they want to part with?? I know I can go ARP but I'd like to keep the factory stud bolts so I can use the Dooley windage tray. RDP always comes through!!!
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As i recall the big block chevy main cap bolts are the sane size and thread pitch, and they are studed so that you can use your windage tray,I beleive that is what i used on my olds in my Tahiti trihull
 
redone76

redone76

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clark said:
As i recall the big block chevy main cap bolts are the sane size and thread pitch, and they are studed so that you can use your windage tray,I beleive that is what i used on my olds in my Tahiti trihull
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Awesome!! I'll look into that!!
 
redone76

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Good chances most likely. This engine has never been apart before. As I was plastigaging the bearings it snapped. Went from righty tighty to loosey goosey real quick!
 
redone76

redone76

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DRYHEAT said:
Lord knows I’ve put some questionable shit together back in the day, but that scenario doesn’t give me warm fuzzy feelings.🤣
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Hahaha! Me as well... but I got this project on the cheap. It's a solid engine so I'm just refreshing it. Don't want to spend money on a Chevy swap yet.
 
monkeyswrench

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Honestly, I'd go with new "stockers". As mentioned, I think the Chevy ones are the same, and can probably order them through an auto parts store for cheap.
 
lbhsbz

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It's not a "warning sign" and it doesn't really mean anything except for that the bolt that broke needs to be replaced. If the rest of them took progressive effort to arrive at the torque value, then they are good bolts and there is absolutely nothing wrong with using them. If they're already tight...then leave them alone and just replace the one that broke. The clamp force created by the specified torque value at the conditions called out in the service information is greater than any load that will applied in the fastener under normal conditions. Example...if the engine was designed to make 300hp, there is not a single fastener in that engine that has any greater load applied to it while the engine is making 300hp than it does when the engine is shut off. A single replacement bolt is fine here
 
mash on it

mash on it

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rivrrts429 said:
Unless you’re challenged with cash flow why not go all new? That broken one would leave me uneasy. I’d replace them all.
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This. ^^^
The newest original bolt was made in 1980.

...2024
..-1980
.=0044.

44 fukkin years for the newest factory original bolt.

Seek help at Napa or elsewhere with new bolts, x10.

I digress, it's just an Olds.
Home Depot speed and marine may have thee one for you.
Best of luck.

Dan'l
 
redone76

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coolchange said:
View attachment 1408190
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HST4ME said:
$45.00 for new arp bolts....hmmm.
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rivrrts429 said:
Unless you’re challenged with cash flow why not go all new? That broken one would leave me uneasy. I’d replace them all.
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I have no problem going with all new bolts. Only issue is the ARP bolts do not have the threaded stud on top of the bolt for the windage tray. I want to use the Dooley tray to keep the 10 quarts of oil from blowing everywhere inside the engine. I appreciate the help and guidance guys!!
 
redone76

redone76

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lbhsbz said:
It's not a "warning sign" and it doesn't really mean anything except for that the bolt that broke needs to be replaced. If the rest of them took progressive effort to arrive at the torque value, then they are good bolts and there is absolutely nothing wrong with using them. If they're already tight...then leave them alone and just replace the one that broke. The clamp force created by the specified torque value at the conditions called out in the service information is greater than any load that will applied in the fastener under normal conditions. Example...if the engine was designed to make 300hp, there is not a single fastener in that engine that has any greater load applied to it while the engine is making 300hp than it does when the engine is shut off. A single replacement bolt is fine here
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I agree bud! Trying to locate one is the issue. I'll look into the Chevy idea from above as well...
 
coolchange

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IMG_2546.png
IMG_2545.png

If you’re plastigauging that motor are you checking rod throws also? You need to check it for round tolerance.
 
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redone76 said:
Yes sir I am planning to. I saw the stud kit but read you should have the mains align honed with the studs installed due to different torque specs...🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️
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Correct.....arp's higher tensile strength bolts will apply more torque (clamp load) then required or desired for your application and cause distortion in the block web and cap thereby requiring a hone job.
The factory grade bolt (tensile strength) is sufficient for your app. The question is how many of those other main bolts have been previously over torqued, over stretched and are ready to fail under operational forces? With operational heat, blocks expand & twist, main caps expand & twist, bolts expand increasing the stretch load and effects their plasticity. For the couple $$$ of a set of fresh bolts is it really worth the chance of finding out if any other bolts are ready to fail? Your choice.
You have to re-torgue the other bolt on that cap anyway might as well replace both to maintain even clamp load quality. Good luck.
 
4Waters

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wzuber said:
For a 300hp Olds? Seriously? Did I miss the 500hp nitrous kit for this motor? 14/71 blower? Lol
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I guess it's cheaper in the long run if it chews the bearing out if it 🤷. It's recommended
 
redone76

redone76

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wzuber said:
Correct.....arp's higher tensile strength bolts will apply more torque (clamp load) then required or desired for your application and cause distortion in the block web and cap thereby requiring a hone job.
The factory grade bolt (tensile strength) is sufficient for your app. The question is how many of those other main bolts have been previously over torqued, over stretched and are ready to fail under operational forces? With operational heat, blocks expand & twist, main caps expand & twist, bolts expand increasing the stretch load and effects their plasticity. For the couple $$$ of a set of fresh bolts is it really worth the chance of finding out if any other bolts are ready to fail? Your choice.
You have to re-torgue the other bolt on that cap anyway might as well replace both to maintain even clamp load quality. Good luck.
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Oh I'm replacing both for sure. All the other bolts torqued up nicely
 
Terminal Velocity

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Do you have a picture of the "stud" type bolt you want to use. I probably have some and regular Stock Main bolts. They are from a BBC but if others say they fit i'll give 'em (ship them) to ya if I have them. I'll be at my shop/garage later this afternoon to check.
 
redone76

redone76

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Terminal Velocity said:
Do you have a picture of the "stud" type bolt you want to use. I probably have some and regular Stock Main bolts. They are from a BBC but if others say they fit i'll give 'em (ship them) to ya if I have them. I'll be at my shop/garage later this afternoon to check.
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I'll snap a pic when i get home in a few hours from work. Thank you for the offer!!!
 
redone76

redone76

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Terminal Velocity said:
Do you have a picture of the "stud" type bolt you want to use. I probably have some and regular Stock Main bolts. They are from a BBC but if others say they fit i'll give 'em (ship them) to ya if I have them. I'll be at my shop/garage later this afternoon to check.
Click to expand...
IMG_4487.jpeg

Here's the bolt/stud.
 
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Isn't that the outside bolt in a BBC 4 bolt main arraingement?
 
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redone76 said:
View attachment 1408186
While refreshing the 455 in the Spectra 18 I bought a while ago I just broke one of the #1 main bearing cap bolts. Anyone have a couple good used ones laying around they want to part with?? I know I can go ARP but I'd like to keep the factory stud bolts so I can use the Dooley windage tray. RDP always comes through!!!
Click to expand...
Share pictures of the boat. My first was a '75 California with an olds and jacuzzi. Had a ton of fun and learned a lot. I went everywhere from mohave down to martinez with that boat
 
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My 1st. Boat had an Olds in it too. 1973 21' dbl step deck eliminator cruiser w/Berkley pump. Had a lot of fun in that ol tub skiing and partying w/ buds, Beers, weed n banging sweet, naughty babes.....lol good times....
 
jetboatperformance

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Been Building engines for 50 years , I'm Olds dealer trained 70's and was "friends" with Joe , I respect the venerable Olds and they will be a good reliable engine when treated right, BUT we will no longer build or supply them We cannot risk the failure rate vs profit I have lots of parts and buildable cores if anyone needs them BBC swap is the way to go IMO
 
redone76

redone76

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mattyc said:
Share pictures of the boat. My first was a '75 California with an olds and jacuzzi. Had a ton of fun and learned a lot. I went everywhere from mohave down to martinez with that boat
Click to expand...

New project followed me home...'73 Spectra

Sold my Chaparral deck boat last year cause it wasn't being used much. Started to get the itch for another boat so I hopped on the internet.... Found this 1973 Spectra 18 jet boat project on OfferUp and headed out last Tuesday to take a look. Guy got in over his head mechanical wise when he...
www.riverdavesplace.com www.riverdavesplace.com

I need to update the thread soon!
 
redone76

redone76

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jetboatperformance said:
Been Building engines for 50 years ,I'm Olds dealer trained 70's I respect the venerable Olds and they will be a good reliable engine when treated right BUT we will no longer build or supply them We cannot risk the failure rate vs profit I have lots of parts and buildable cores if anyone needs them BBC swap is the way to go IMO
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Good to know! A Chevy is definitely in the future plans
 
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