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High Performance car brake squeak

DLC

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Hi guys!

looking for info on high performance brake system My wife’s car Frt brakes squeak she has carbon - ceramic rotors and the Audi pads to go with these rotors

her car is a 2018 Audi TT rs
The Audi service tech said her car is basically a race car and the rotor / pad don’t get heated up enough during her commute and they ( Audi ) can’t do anything for her.
I’ve been poking around and doing some reading on brakes and some systems need to be bedded, her owners manual doesn’t say anything about that.

#1-
what is the best way to bed your brake system?

#2-
how long will the bedding process last after you bed your system?

#3-
Do all you Audi, BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, Lambo, Ferrari drivers have to bed your brakes? Do your brakes squeak? I can’t believe she is the lucky one.

I told her she needs to drive the car and be more aggressive about 6 months ago and she does do that, a few times she when she comes to a stop I wonder if she is going to run the red light.... as she will stop last minute and brake hard. I have not driven the car as it’s her baby and I don’t want to touch it, with my luck some drunk non insured undocumented unamerican citizen would smash into me and then total her car.
 
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Cobalt232

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Audi S4 here. My brakes squeak when they are cold if it is cold outside. The colder it is outside, the worse it is.
 

lbhsbz

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Go out and do about 15 very aggressive brake applications (almost, but don't activate the ABS) from 50-60mph down to 5mph back to back...then try and hop on the freeway for a few miles to cool things back down. See if that has any effect on it. Try not to come to a complete stop until after the cooldown.

Manufactures...especially ze germans, seem to be in a competition to see how big and expensive of the brake system they can fit on everything these days. In the early 2000s, it was rare to see anything bigger than about a 12" rotor on a coupe or sedan. Now we're seeing 14-16" rotors. Most drivers aren't driving any differently and they're simply not able to put any heat into these huge brakes and because of that, the pads can't maintain a transfer layer and they don't work right.

I'll check out the options when I get to the shop tomorrow....we might be able to swap to a "lesser" brake package off of one of the lower models that uses iron rotors wtih considerably better brake pad selection...although I'm not sure you're up for doing that.
 

DLC

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Go out and do about 15 very aggressive brake applications (almost, but don't activate the ABS) from 50-60mph down to 5mph back to back...then try and hop on the freeway for a few miles to cool things back down. See if that has any effect on it. Try not to come to a complete stop until after the cooldown.

Manufactures...especially ze germans, seem to be in a competition to see how big and expensive of the brake system they can fit on everything these days. In the early 2000s, it was rare to see anything bigger than about a 12" rotor on a coupe or sedan. Now we're seeing 14-16" rotors. Most drivers aren't driving any differently and they're simply not able to put any heat into these huge brakes and because of that, the pads can't maintain a transfer layer and they don't work right.

I'll check out the options when I get to the shop tomorrow....we might be able to swap to a "lesser" brake package off of one of the lower models that uses iron rotors wtih considerably better brake pad selection...although I'm not sure you're up for doing that.
I’d be curious to see what’s a ball park cost on that? $5,000 or more New stock pads are $1500, we are already on our 2nd set. My wife always drove sports cars over the years 5 or 6 Camaro’s SS and the Iroc, she’s had a couple tuned Golf R’s and this Audi was her baby....
 

Mikes56

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I’ve got a F430 with the CC brakes. They squeak when it’s cold too. I’ve heard that bedding them doesn’t stop the squeaking, they just have to get some heat in them for it to stop the noise. Pads, rotors and labor is $20,000, so I won’t be slamming on the brakes over and over, I’ll just deal with a little squeaking.
 

Taboma

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Wife's SQ5 doesn't have that issue, but if you do an online search you'll find a lot of posts by European TTRS owner's complaining about the same thing and going back 7 or 8 years.
This name and phone # was posted as she represents (Or did if not retired by now) Audi Customer Experience and was able to help some owners get resolve. Apparently Audi installed other pads.



Maria - Audi Customer Experience Center (I'm not positive her name was Maria. But that is her extension)
877-354-2834 x43391
M-F 10:30a - 7PM EST
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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I’d be curious to see what’s a ball park cost on that? $5,000 or more New stock pads are $1500, we are already on our 2nd set. My wife always drove sports cars over the years 5 or 6 Camaro’s SS and the Iroc, she’s had a couple tuned Golf R’s and this Audi was her baby....
The rebed may or may not work. I’ve pulled rotors off and knocked them back down with a sanding block to “reset” things and have had better luck when doing that.

Have the stock pads worn the rotors at all?
As recommended above, you want a less aggressive pad. Even if you cleaned the rotors, and rebed the brakes, it will start squealing again if you just commute and don’t beat on the brakes. 1 or 2 hard stops isn’t enough.

I’d recommend Carbotech 1521 pads

Front - Ct1029-1521
Rear - CT1761-1521

Those are $500 for pads for both axles. Those pads are great aggressive street pads that don’t need to get hot to work. They are also quiet from my experience. Lots of initial bite so it will feel racey still.

Ctbrakes.com

I’m assuming from the cost you listed, the car has the carbon rotors?

You will want to clean up the rotors with 220 grit sandpaper before any pad compound change.

Also consider going to iron rotors when the carbon rotors wear out. There is nothing wrong with them, the car will stop exactly the same. For a commuter car you don’t need or want carbon brakes. Track guys don’t even use them because of the expense.

If you need front rotors Girodisk makes 2 piece iron front rotors for $1000/pair.


Don’t waste your money putting carbon rotors back on the car. The rear iron rotors are about $50-$100 each. If you wanted to refresh the entire braking system, you could do so for about $1700, worst case with the parts I listed and a visit to Rock Auto.com for a pair of rear rotors.
 
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CobraDave

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With all that said sometimes they just need a little caliper and pad lube. I’ve never had a car with squeeky brakes I couldn’t fix that with.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Taboma

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The rebed may or may not work. I’ve pulled rotors off and knocked them back down with a sanding block to “reset” things and have had better luck when doing that.

Have the stock pads worn the rotors at all?
As recommended above, you want a less aggressive pad. Even if you cleaned the rotors, and rebed the brakes, it will start squealing again if you just commute and don’t beat on the brakes. 1 or 2 hard stops isn’t enough.

I’d recommend Carbotech 1521 pads

Front - Ct1029-1521
Rear - CT1761-1521

Those are $500 for pads for both axles. Those pads are great aggressive street pads that don’t need to get hot to work. They are also quiet from my experience. Lots of initial bite so it will feel racey still.

Ctbrakes.com

I’m assuming from the cost you listed, the car has the carbon rotors?

You will want to clean up the rotors with 220 grit sandpaper before any pad compound change.

Also consider going to iron rotors when the carbon rotors wear out. There is nothing wrong with them, the car will stop exactly the same. For a commuter car you don’t need or want carbon brakes. Track guys don’t even use them because of the expense.

If you need front rotors Girodisk makes 2 piece iron front rotors for $1000/pair.


Don’t waste your money putting carbon rotors back on the car. The rear iron rotors are about $50-$100 each. If you wanted to refresh the entire braking system, you could do so for about $1700, worst case with the parts I listed and a visit to Rock Auto.com for a pair of rear rotors.

I'm sure DLC appreciates this researched information, I know if I were him, I certainly would. I find it unlikely any Audi dealership will undertake this brake retro-fit, hence.

Don't mean to be speaking for DLC, but given his posted statements about NOT driving his wife's Hi-Po TTRS, I somehow doubt he's inclined to start wrenching on it.
Do you happen to know of, or can recommend any shops in the San Diego area ( Since DLC lives close by me) who you'd trust if you owned an Audi ?
I'm also asking this question because my wife's having an affair with an Audi as well. :oops: 😁

I gotta be honest, I've played cars for damn near 60 years, and ALL I've done to my wife's Audi is charge the battery on occasion since she's working from home.

A job of this description when it comes to one's wife's pride and joy, can get you hero status or a month of couch sleeping, or worse.
When it comes to my wife's Audi, I, being retired, drive it to the dealers for service and get to drive a loaner like I stole it as my reward. 😂
 

Cdog

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Our 2018 Q7 has squeaky brakes when they are cold. My wife argues with me that there’s something wrong with it. What the F do I know about cars right??

I told her tough shit. That’s the way they are. Deal with it. She puts on a show when she backs out of the garage being sure to squeak the ever loving shit out of them in front of me then says “that’s normal”.

I can’t believe I put up with this shit...
 
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Taboma

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Our 2018 Q7 has squeaky brakes when the are cold. My wife argues with me that there’s something wrong with it. What the F do I know about cars right??

I told her tough shit. That’s the way they are. Deal with it. She puts on a show when she backs out of the garage being sure to squeak the ever loving shit out of them in front of me then says “that’s normal”.

I can’t believe I put up with this shit...
My wife's SQ5 brakes squeal a bit when they're cold as well. I dunno, she drives like most women, either on the throttle or on the brakes, drives me nuts when I drive with her, which I rarely do.

She's worked hard for, and owned her own brand and breed of cars "She Wants" for 37 years now. She drives what she wants, I escort her for 6 to 10 months to every dealership in San Diego for test drives. Buying her a new car is a test of endurance at least for me and I'm sure the sales staff.

After the purchase, we obtain the longest extended warranty in history, I go as far as putting air in her tires and will charge the battery a bit if it's not being driven.
Otherwise, we take it in for service for EVERYTHING. When she's unhappy with it, or tired of it, we start the process all over again.

On the flip side, I buy and drive what I want, no questions asked and I get to have TWO cars and can do what I want with my own. I see no reason to change this program. 👍
 

SoCalDave

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When I got my V the rotors were shot and I mean shot. Bought all new rotors/pads from a local vendor in Cerritos, CA that is just around the corner from my house. Been on for 8 months now with no issues what so ever. My fronts are 15" (380mm) and rears are 14.75" (375mm) diameter so not small rotors for the size of the car.

 
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Cdog

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My wife's SQ5 brakes squeal a bit when they're cold as well. I dunno, she drives like most women, either on the throttle or on the brakes, drives me nuts when I drive with her, which I rarely do.

She's worked hard for, and owned her own brand and breed of cars "She Wants" for 37 years now. She drives what she wants, I escort her for 6 to 10 months to every dealership in San Diego for test drives. Buying her a new car is a test of endurance at least for me and I'm sure the sales staff.

After the purchase, we obtain the longest extended warranty in history, I go as far as putting air in her tires and will charge the battery a bit if it's not being driven.
Otherwise, we take it in for service for EVERYTHING. When she's unhappy with it, or tired of it, we start the process all over again.

On the flip side, I buy and drive what I want, no questions asked and I get to have TWO cars and can do what I want with my own. I see no reason to change this program. 👍
I use the Q7 for work when I need to look "fancy" lol! It's in my name anyway...... I think the squeak is more of an issue with pedal draggers. Hard on, then off makes less squeak but it all goes away when they warm up. I'm a late braker, no need to scrub speed until absolutely nessasary. HAHA!

The problem with Audi is they dont cover the brakes as they're a wear item. So she will get suckered into buying everything like a dumb ass and I get the bills. NOPE!

Besides, I gave her two daughters she wastes entirely too much money on. The brakes stay as is.
 

Cdog

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When I got my V the rotors were shot and I mean shot. Bought all new rotors/pads from a local vendor in Cerritos, CA that is just around the corner from my house. Been on for 8 months now with no issues what so ever. My fronts are 15" (380mm) and rears are 14.75" (375mm) diameter so not small rotors for the size of the car.


I bought a rotor/pad kit from those guys for our old TDI Q7. Decent deals.
 

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I'm sure DLC appreciates this researched information, I know if I were him, I certainly would. I find it unlikely any Audi dealership will undertake this brake retro-fit, hence.

Don't mean to be speaking for DLC, but given his posted statements about NOT driving his wife's Hi-Po TTRS, I somehow doubt he's inclined to start wrenching on it.
Do you happen to know of, or can recommend any shops in the San Diego area ( Since DLC lives close by me) who you'd trust if you owned an Audi ?
I'm also asking this question because my wife's having an affair with an Audi as well. :oops: 😁

I gotta be honest, I've played cars for damn near 60 years, and ALL I've done to my wife's Audi is charge the battery on occasion since she's working from home.

A job of this description when it comes to one's wife's pride and joy, can get you hero status or a month of couch sleeping, or worse.
When it comes to my wife's Audi, I, being retired, drive it to the dealers for service and get to drive a loaner like I stole it as my reward. 😂
No way the Audi dealer will do it. @DLC if you go this route, I will throw them on with/for you.

This brake job would be pretty simple, unless the caliper is held on by some weird size Torx or 7 sided nut that needed some special tool to remove.

For the record.. this is what happens when you buy Audis :)
 

ltbaney1

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race car parts = race car noises. offroad shop my buddie works at has that on the wall always makes me laugh. i would reccomend a good bedding and maybe some anti seize type compound between pad and caliper.
 

Taboma

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No way the Audi dealer will do it. @DLC if you go this route, I will throw them on with/for you.

This brake job would be pretty simple, unless the caliper is held on by some weird size Torx or 7 sided nut that needed some special tool to remove.

For the record.. this is what happens when you buy Audis :)

EDIT --- I didn't realize you were in the San Diego area ???
Also, asking just cuz, let's just say your most generous offer were accepted, and let's just say hypothetically, that after this work was professionally installed, the wife's pride and joy fried a muffler bearing. Any thoughts on what it's going to cost a guy ( Just a guy for the sake of this conversation) for a good divorce lawyer ?? :oops:

Oh trust me, it's not always about "The Car", there's so much more to life and having a happy wife ranks way the fuck up there. 😁

All I need to know about Audis is how to get to the dealership when the damned thing requires service ---- AND, that's all I want to know. 😁
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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When I got my V the rotors were shot and I mean shot. Bought all new rotors/pads from a local vendor in Cerritos, CA that is just around the corner from my house. Been on for 8 months now with no issues what so ever. My fronts are 15" (380mm) and rears are 14.75" (375mm) diameter so not small rotors for the size of the car.

The stock pads on the Vs were not great. They ate the rotors, and didn't stop well LOL>
 

pronstar

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Also consider going to iron rotors when the carbon rotors wear out. There is nothing wrong with them, the car will stop exactly the same. For a commuter car you don’t need or want carbon brakes. Track guys don’t even use them because of the expense.

I had an epic facepalm moment when I first learned that track guys were downgrading CC brakes. There’s really no other reason to run them, besides dick-swinging contests.

Performance brakes make noise. Even the Brembo and Akebono multipiston calipers that Lexus uses make noise...Lexus owners have little patience for squeaky brakes LOL


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
 

Cdog

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No way the Audi dealer will do it. @DLC if you go this route, I will throw them on with/for you.

This brake job would be pretty simple, unless the caliper is held on by some weird size Torx or 7 sided nut that needed some special tool to remove.

For the record.. this is what happens when you buy Audis :)

Be forewarned. Audi uses some unique fasteners with like triple square torqx . I bought a set to use on our 2012 tdi q7. Different sizes and torqx from front to back.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Be forewarned. Audi uses some unique fasteners with like triple square torqx . I bought a set to use on our 2012 tdi q7. Different sizes and torqx from front to back.
Exactly.
 

Cdog

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I had an epic facepalm moment when I first learned that track guys were downgrading CC brakes. There’s really no other reason to run them, besides dick-swinging contests.

Performance brakes make noise. Even the Brembo and Akebono multipiston calipers that Lexus uses make noise...Lexus owners have little patience for squeaky brakes LOL


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Less Rotating mass is a couple of 10ths of a second. But if that really matters you have to be prepared to total the car. Most are just dick wallet swingers. You should come out to Cresson MSR sometime. Lot's of fun.
 

Cobalt232

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No way the Audi dealer will do it. @DLC if you go this route, I will throw them on with/for you.

This brake job would be pretty simple, unless the caliper is held on by some weird size Torx or 7 sided nut that needed some special tool to remove.

For the record.. this is what happens when you buy Audis :)
I believe you need to use VAG Com or similar to retract the electronic parking brake if doing rears.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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I had an epic facepalm moment when I first learned that track guys were downgrading CC brakes. There’s really no other reason to run them, besides dick-swinging contests.

Performance brakes make noise. Even the Brembo and Akebono multipiston calipers that Lexus uses make noise...Lexus owners have little patience for squeaky brakes LOL


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Yea, all but the biggest of ballers cringe after burning up $3K- $9K (car dependent) of brakes in a single track day.

That said if you know how to drive, you can make them last for a few track days.. but it is still oppressively expensive to run them. The cheapest production rotors I am aware of are the Chevy carbon rotors, at about $3K/pair.
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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I believe you need to use VAG Com or similar to retract the electronic parking brake if doing rears.
Good info.

I'd put the car on jackstands and do the rear brake job with the car in gear if I had to :)
 
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SBMech

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Noise is simply vibrations, if the pads have been bedded properly (hard braking just near the edge of activating ABS from 40mph to 20 then speed back up with no braking allowing a 1 minute cooldown between applications...10-15 stops should do it, then a few minutes cruising at freeway speeds to cool it all down is my routine) then you can possibly add brake lubricant to dampen the frequency.

Some of the really aggressive Carbon systems are by nature noisy, nature of the beast so to speak.
 

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OK, the TTRS was available with either iron or Ceramic rotors. The calipers don't change, so the iron rotors are the same size as the PCCB rotors.

The iron rotors are a "co-cast" or sort of psudo 2 piece....Iron disk with aluminum hat that are held together with radial pins. We don't make these and you probably won't find them in the aftermarket. They're about $500 each.


The pads are specific to this model only because of the sensor wire configuration. If you are willing to cut the connector off and crimp it on the new pad sensor wire, then that opens up a whole lot of pad selection...I'll bet we can find some that are quiet in the $70-100 range.
 

DLC

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My wife picked up her car this morning and they basically said you bought a race car deal with it!

We are going try to contact customer service and also look into swapping out the rotors and pads.

In the mean time try bedding the brakes several times and see where that takes the squeak

I’ll have to pop off a wheel and see what it looks like,,,,
 

DLC

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Thank you all for helping me out and giving me a direct to look into!

It’s nice to know I have 2 race cars .... the Audi and my can am!

LoL
 

SBMech

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My wife picked up her car this morning and they basically said you bought a race car deal with it!

We are going try to contact customer service and also look into swapping out the rotors and pads.

In the mean time try bedding the brakes several times and see where that takes the squeak

I’ll have to pop off a wheel and see what it looks like,,,,
Try bedding them again and if that fails, remove pads and coat back of backing plate and shim with brake grease, all contact points in the carrier as well. Less is more, you only need a thin coat.
 
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LargeOrangeFont

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Thank you all for helping me out and giving me a direct to look into!

It’s nice to know I have 2 race cars .... the Audi and my can am!

LoL
You should have just ordered her a Speed car to commute in 🤣

Another cheaper option for iron front rotors, $414 each.

 

Ziggy

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My wife picked up her car this morning and they basically said you bought a race car deal with it!

We are going try to contact customer service and also look into swapping out the rotors and pads.

In the mean time try bedding the brakes several times and see where that takes the squeak

I’ll have to pop off a wheel and see what it looks like,,,,
Bedding will (maybe) only last until she ends up in stop-n-go traffic or mall crawling through 5 miles of traffic signals. Softer compounds will help but also require more wheel cleaning products.
It's a double-edged sword.
In my bmw dealer days brake dust and/or squeal noises were one of the top complaints.
Miss the ol' asbestos days😳😉😊
 
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lbhsbz

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My wife picked up her car this morning and they basically said you bought a race car deal with it!

We are going try to contact customer service and also look into swapping out the rotors and pads.

In the mean time try bedding the brakes several times and see where that takes the squeak

I’ll have to pop off a wheel and see what it looks like,,,,
Why would you pop a wheel off?
 
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lbhsbz

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Bedding will (maybe) only last until she ends up in stop-n-go traffic or mall crawling through 5 miles of traffic signals. Softer compounds will help but also require more wheel cleaning products.
It's a double-edged sword.
In my bmw dealer days brake dust and/or squeal noises were one of the top complaints.
Miss the ol' asbestos days😳😉😊
Asbestos has nothing to do with it. Euro brake systems typically use a softer iron in their rotors along with an abrasive type friction material (rotors and pads are designed to wear), as opposed to the domestic/asian brake systems that use a harder iron rotor along with an adherent type friction material (rotors typically do not wear in these systems...in a perfect world). Both have their positives and negatives.

Now we have to remove copper from friction materials...that's having a considerably greater affect than getting rid of asbestos. Silver a bit better than copper when it comes to thermal conductivity, the next in line being gold, which is only about 75% as good as copper. There is no reasonably priced alternative so we're having to get creative.
 
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nowski

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I always thought race cars used Carbon-Carbon brakes but what do I know? However I did work with Steve Ruiz from Stop Tech back around 1999 for a couple of years...
 

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Asbestos has nothing to do with it. Euro brake systems typically use a softer iron in their rotors along with an abrasive type friction material (rotors and pads are designed to wear), as opposed to the domestic/asian brake systems that use a harder iron rotor along with an adherent type friction material (rotors typically do not wear in these systems...in a perfect world). Both have their positives and negatives.
Brake complaints went through the roof when compounds changed from the deadly asbestos.
And yeah. Customers hated having to replace rotors every other set...back then we still turned rotors unless they were heavy footed brakers after 1st pads wore down.
Lol, my techs did enjoy the pizza $ they made from scrappers buying the old rotors.😁
 

lbhsbz

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I always thought race cars used Carbon-Carbon brakes but what do I know? However I did work with Steve Ruiz from Stop Tech back around 1999 for a couple of years...
I might know you...I worked with Steve Ruiz until he retired in october of '19.
 

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No way the Audi dealer will do it. @DLC if you go this route, I will throw them on with/for you.

This brake job would be pretty simple, unless the caliper is held on by some weird size Torx or 7 sided nut that needed some special tool to remove.

For the record.. this is what happens when you buy Audis :)
So I'm the shop foreman for Lexus at the time. Customer comes in and says.................................

I have a BMW and a Lexus. The brakes on my BMW don't squeak, how come the brakes on my Lexus squeak???? :mad:

So later, I'm shop foreman at a BMW dealer. Customer comes in and says......................

I have a Lexus and a BMW. The brakes on my Lexus don't squeak, how come the brakes on my BMW squeak??? :mad:


:rolleyes::p
 

lbhsbz

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Good info.

I'd put the car on jackstands and do the rear brake job with the car in gear if I had to :)
You miss the point. if there is any rotor wear (or pad wear), the new parts won't fit....this is not just applying and releasing the parking brake. This is how you retract the rear pistons...you cannot just turn them back while applying pressure like a mechanical parking brake caliper. You use the scanner to retract the actuator, then push the piston in like you normally would a standard non-parking brake caliper. I have a scanner with this capability, and also the triple square tools if you need them to get the calipers off. I have no idea what fasteners are used in this case, but I would bet is triple square or normal hex cap screw.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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You miss the point. if there is any rotor wear (or pad wear), the new parts won't fit....this is not just applying and releasing the parking brake. This is how you retract the rear pistons...you cannot just turn them back while applying pressure like a mechanical parking brake caliper. You use the scanner to retract the actuator, then push the piston in like you normally would a standard non-parking brake caliper. I have a scanner with this capability, and also the triple square tools if you need them to get the calipers off. I have no idea what fasteners are used in this case, but I would bet is triple square or normal hex cap screw.
Annnnd thats why ze german cars should be banned.

Good info, thanks. I didnt know the modern ones needed to be electronically retracted.
 

lbhsbz

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Annnnd thats why ze german cars should be banned.

Good info, thanks. I didnt know the modern ones needed to be electronically retracted.
Its not just them. The new F150s have electronic parking brakes too....and many others.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Its not just them. The new F150s have electronic parking brakes too....and many others.
I've had cars with electric parking brakes, you have just not needed the scan tool to retract the piston.
 

lbhsbz

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I've had cars with electric parking brakes, you have just not needed the scan tool to retract the piston.
I follow the service information....even though there are workarounds. On many, you can remove the actuator motor and crank them back with an appropriate tool, then reinstall the motor. The problem is, some...one such being the Audi A8, use an encoder motor for the actuator that doubles as the "sensor" to determine remaining pad life. If the workaround procedure is used on the the A8, even with new pads and rotors, you will have a "service brakes" message on the dashboard that won't go away until you do it right.

A lot of the theory of operation data is only present in engineering publications and not service data, so it's tough to know what you're actually dealing with and if you need to use a scan tool to do it, as per SI, or if a workaround will suffice. I like to avoid problems, so I just do it the way SI recommends.
 

Taboma

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I use the Q7 for work when I need to look "fancy" lol! It's in my name anyway...... I think the squeak is more of an issue with pedal draggers. Hard on, then off makes less squeak but it all goes away when they warm up. I'm a late braker, no need to scrub speed until absolutely nessasary. HAHA!

The problem with Audi is they dont cover the brakes as they're a wear item. So she will get suckered into buying everything like a dumb ass and I get the bills. NOPE!

Besides, I gave her two daughters she wastes entirely too much money on. The brakes stay as is.
I see, so in my wife's defense, she just drives like she's on the track and being timed. 😂
 
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