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How does Schiada get non-skid decks to release from the mold?

lenmann

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So, I follow pretty much every build thread from big E, Nordic, DCB and anyone else that posts shots of the gel and lamination processes. The magic always starts with a thorough cleaning of the mold and then a bunch of coats of mold release wax so the boat's gel coat doesn't become one with the tooling gelcoat in the mold and once the lamination is done the hull or cap "pops" out of the mold.

All the molds I see are smooth like glass except for the cap on a Schiada which still has the classic textured deck and gunwale sides. It would seem that waxing the textured surface of this mold would simply fill the texture making it substantially less grippy. Every Schiada I have run my hand across has substantial grip, to point of being sharp on boats that have never been re-gelled.

My question is, how does Schiada get the textured surface to release from the mold without "washing" out the texture with wax?

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old rigger

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So, I follow pretty much every build thread from big E, Nordic, DCB and anyone else that posts shots of the gel and lamination processes. The magic always starts with a thorough cleaning of the mold and then a bunch of coats of mold release wax so the boat's gel coat doesn't become one with the tooling gelcoat in the mold and once the lamination is done the hull or cap "pops" out of the mold.

All the molds I see are smooth like glass except for the cap on a Schiada which still has the classic textured deck and gunwale sides. It would seem that waxing the textured surface of this mold would simply fill the texture making it substantially less grippy. Every Schiada I have run my hand across has substantial grip, to point of being sharp on boats that have never been re-gelled.

My question is, how does Schiada get the textured surface to release from the mold without "washing" out the texture with wax?

View attachment 799666

Can't speak for Schiada but at Howard the newer deck on the 20 (sounds silly now thinking that it's the newer deck!) with the straight gunnels had the same type or style of non skid. The old deck was the Spectra with the kitty litter-sand in the gel non skid.

We'd spray that area with PVA mold release. It's as thin as water and leaves no imperfections on the finished product.
 

old rigger

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Even with the old decks, the spectra splash....every shop on the planet had one or one wth slight changes, we'd have to make sure the mold release wax got in every little nook or the part would stick. We'd use a soft bristle brush some other shops to work the wax down deep. Even it a little is left in the mold, it'll never show on the part.
 

lenmann

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And there you have it! Thanks for the insight @old rigger

Amazing how much knowledge there is around this place.

So, if PVA will release, why not use it everywhere instead of labor intensive hand application of wax?
 

old rigger

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And there you have it! Thanks for the insight @old rigger

Amazing how much knowledge there is around this place.

So, if PVA will release, why not use it everywhere instead of labor intensive hand application of wax?

It's not noticeable on the non skid but on a surface that you want like glass, it'll leave a haze type effect that has to be cut and buffed. I use to make all kids of strange parts on the side, pull a mold from an original part say off a pedal car and have at it. The guy I was making these for didn't care about the part being mirror smooth because he painted them so I'd just brush in PVA, in fact I'd brush in the color too on these particular parts. It was easier than cleaning my gun every time.
 
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