Your going to get a lot of different options on this one but here’s my two cents.
Looks like a pretty std. refresh to me. My procedure is going to be as good as any and better than most.
Doesn't really matter when nitrous ports yore pistons for youSo, wha ya'll are saying is my standard automotive break in of warming up, running a hard pass, and flipping on both kits for the return pass, is no good?
Shocking
Well if you’re running a blower in a bottle you’re not looking for longevity so go for it.So, wha ya'll are saying is my standard automotive break in of warming up, running a hard pass, and flipping on both kits for the return pass, is no good?
Shocking
Do you run zinc additives at all on "modern" motors? Been doing that with flat tappet motors, and the flathead Fords get the lifter valley flooded with Lucas just before the intake goes on (piss-poor design, very limited oiling). Seems to help lifter life because startup is rough on them.
Been doing it that way since the 70's. I used Baldwin filters.
What are these "converters" you speak of?Always add zinc on a flat tappet engine.
Unless it has one of those converter things in the exhaust...
Agreed. If it's a quality rebuild the only thing that you're really trying to do is establish a wear pattern on the cam and get the rings to seat. It's important to build substantial cylinder pressure early on to force the rings into the cylinder walls otherwise they will get a less than ideal running pattern and once that is done they will never get better. That's why I say you need to do several hard full load pulls right out of the gate.After cam break in, I'd follow the instructions based upon the rings used and the builders specifications.
If It was mine, break in cam, seat the rings, after a few hours of varying speeds and loads run it like I stole it.
It's my personal belief that engines like to run, hold one down they become turds after too long.
Build tolerances and materials/gaskets, machining and technology are so much better than they ever were in the past, if everything is right, there is no real difference to the motor once the cam is broken in and the rings are seated. Run it hard as you want after that, the only thing that would fuck it up would be something unknown like a oil pump failure etc IMO.
I will say that there is a very large difference between something I built, vs a standard machine shop refresh. I chamfer all the combustion chamber edges, oil returns, paint the valley etc, I have seen heads returned from other shops/lesser machine shops with literal burs and knife edges hanging into the combustion chambers, obvious uneven valve seats and stem heights.....
YMMV.
