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I need a utv mechanic

Rondog4405

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Picking up a new complete axle.from summers bros tomorrow. Praying that fixes my clanking issue. So i think i also have sheave issues. Can anyone suggest a guy or shop around the inland empire area. Im in ontario. Or in the parker havasu area. I can tow it out if needed. Its gonna end up there anyways if i can ever get it going. Ive called 4 of the local shops in the area.. And only one will answer thier damm phones. The one that did pick up said he wont work on rhinos... So..i turn to you fellow inmates... Know of anyone?
 

Waffles

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Picking up a new complete axle.from summers bros tomorrow. Praying that fixes my clanking issue. So i think i also have sheave issues. Can anyone suggest a guy or shop around the inland empire area. Im in ontario. Or in the parker havasu area. I can tow it out if needed. Its gonna end up there anyways if i can ever get it going. Ive called 4 of the local shops in the area.. And only one will answer thier damm phones. The one that did pick up said he wont work on rhinos... So..i turn to you fellow inmates... Know of anyone?
What's your sheave issue?

I'd call the jons proshop. They were legit when they were in Stanton. They're in Ontario now

1459 E. Philadelpia St, Ontario, CA 91761

7148921300


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Icky

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Picking up a new complete axle.from summers bros tomorrow. Praying that fixes my clanking issue. So i think i also have sheave issues. Can anyone suggest a guy or shop around the inland empire area. Im in ontario. Or in the parker havasu area. I can tow it out if needed. Its gonna end up there anyways if i can ever get it going. Ive called 4 of the local shops in the area.. And only one will answer thier damm phones. The one that did pick up said he wont work on rhinos... So..i turn to you fellow inmates... Know of anyone?
When's the last time you cleaned your clutch? Years ago we took my friends apart and it had never been touched it was so packed full of sand it wouldn't move :eek:
 

Rondog4405

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What's your sheave issue?

I'd call the jons proshop. They were legit when they were in Stanton. They're in Ontario now

1459 E. Philadelpia St, Ontario, CA 91761

7148921300


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It has a hard take off. I have to.really smash on the pedal pretty hard.to get it moving. Gotta really gas it . and its not a smooth acceleration. Something has to be off. Someone suggested service the sheaves. The pro shop is the only guy that would pick up his phone.
Wont work on rhinos he says.
 

Rondog4405

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When's the last time you cleaned your clutch? Years ago we took my friends apart and it had never been touched it was so packed full of sand it wouldn't move :eek:
Judging from all the issues im having and how dirty things are as im digging in...its probably been a while... I just want to take it to a shop and tell them ..fix it. Easier said than done iam finding out..
 

Icky

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Well if you do it yourself, A, you'll know what tools are required to change a belt on the trail and b you'll realize what a pain it is to change on the trail so you'll be sure to keep up on your maintenance :)
 

Icky

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I'll make a call tomorrow and see if I can find someone.
 

Rondog4405

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Well if you do it yourself, A, you'll know what tools are required to change a belt on the trail and b you'll realize what a pain it is to change on the trail so you'll be sure to keep up on your maintenance :)
Definitely id love to learn how to work on these things and do all the routine maintenance. Iam just overwhelmed with this rhino. Everything seems to be needing attention:eek:
 

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Checked with my buddy and the long travel does resembles the pro one mid travel. But he doesn’t have any info on it anymore.

I have stock axles for the rhino just missing the driver front if your needing the cv’s. Most guys would run stock cv’s and get longer axels. Gorilla axels sometimes had issues in the cv’s. But I don’t think gorilla axles will swap with stock cv’s.

Also YouTube the clutch. It’s easy to take out and you don’t need to be a mechanic. I’m sure the rollers are flat or it’s gummed up. I would suggest buying a new sheeve and rollers. Utv crap had a greaseless one.
 

Rondog4405

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Checked with my buddy and the long travel does resembles the pro one mid travel. But he doesn’t have any info on it anymore.

I have stock axles for the rhino just missing the driver front if your needing the cv’s. Most guys would run stock cv’s and get longer axels. Gorilla axels sometimes had issues in the cv’s. But I don’t think gorilla axles will swap with stock cv’s.

Also YouTube the clutch. It’s easy to take out and you don’t need to be a mechanic. I’m sure the rollers are flat or it’s gummed up. I would suggest buying a new sheeve and rollers. Utv crap had a greaseless one.
Right on..Thanks! When looking to order the sheave.. Is there any special brand i should look for? Also where is a good place to buy it.
 

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Right on..Thanks! When looking to order the sheave.. Is there any special brand i should look for? Also where is a good place to buy it.
I had order back in 06-08 lots of parts through KMS performance. Not sure if they are the go to these days anymore. Try UTV inc. as they were coming up big and fast during those years. You would need to check the current sheave to see if its warn out including the rollers. Most of the time people would machine their sheave (buy them) to gain a few MPH. You can tell if the sheave was machined once it was taken off and looked inside. If bad I would look at the greaseless ones as but wasn't available when I was building mine. Not sure if you can buy machined sheaves and you might need to send your in.

Here is a link showing the sheave.
https://blackrhinoperformance.com/product-category/vehicle-types/yamaha/rhino-660/rhino-660-drivetrain/
 

Waffles

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Definitely id love to learn how to work on these things and do all the routine maintenance. Iam just overwhelmed with this rhino. Everything seems to be needing attention:eek:
I'm with icky on this one. Do the clutch yourself. Pull it off, re-grease it, swap out the rollers if needed....you're going to have to know how to do this if you ever snap or need to replace a worn belt.

That's the downside to buying used, you never know what you're going to get. I had to drop an extra 1200 on clutching after having my new to me rhino out. Didn't even get to enjoy it for more than 15 min first time out.


In regards to sheeves, you can't go wrong with hunterworks or jbs performance. Hunterworks has a true "maintainence free" greaseless setup while jbs has their own setup that uses grease. It's all preference at that point.


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grumpy88

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The sxs market is fucking nuts right now . Alternative off road quoted me 140 . Dollars a hour labor rate for basic service . As much as I don't want to spend the time I will be doing a lot of my work myself till the economy tanks again .
 

Rondog4405

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The sxs market is fucking nuts right now . Alternative off road quoted me 140 . Dollars a hour labor rate for basic service . As much as I don't want to spend the time I will be doing a lot of my work myself till the economy tanks again .
Wow thats nuts!! Worse than the boat wrenches. Yikes. :eek::D
 

Rondog4405

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I had order back in 06-08 lots of parts through KMS performance. Not sure if they are the go to these days anymore. Try UTV inc. as they were coming up big and fast during those years. You would need to check the current sheave to see if its warn out including the rollers. Most of the time people would machine their sheave (buy them) to gain a few MPH. You can tell if the sheave was machined once it was taken off and looked inside. If bad I would look at the greaseless ones as but wasn't available when I was building mine. Not sure if you can buy machined sheaves and you might need to send your in.

Here is a link showing the sheave.
https://blackrhinoperformance.com/product-category/vehicle-types/yamaha/rhino-660/rhino-660-drivetrain/
Gonna try to look at them tomorrow. Im.feeling pretty sure they are toast..
 

Rondog4405

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I'm with icky on this one. Do the clutch yourself. Pull it off, re-grease it, swap out the rollers if needed....you're going to have to know how to do this if you ever snap or need to replace a worn belt.

That's the downside to buying used, you never know what you're going to get. I had to drop an extra 1200 on clutching after having my new to me rhino out. Didn't even get to enjoy it for more than 15 min first time out.


In regards to sheeves, you can't go wrong with hunterworks or jbs performance. Hunterworks has a true "maintainence free" greaseless setup while jbs has their own setup that uses grease. It's all preference at that point.


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So lets say i open it up and they look beat to hell. And i wanna just replace the whole deal... What exactly do i need to buy. Belt ..rollers..whole sheave set?? I just dont want to order the wrong stuff?
 

Waffles

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So lets say i open it up and they look beat to hell. And i wanna just replace the whole deal... What exactly do i need to buy. Belt ..rollers..whole sheave set?? I just dont want to order the wrong stuff?
These are two solid choices I'd consider if I wanted a plug and play setup.... assuming youre running a complete stock clutch setup.

https://jbsperformance.com/product/rhino-660-clutch-kit-w-spring/

Like I said earlier, jbs uses grease so you'll have to reuse the catch plate and oring off the stock clutch to prevent the grease from flying out into the clutch face and belt. It's a pretty solid kit and comes machined to run the better 700 cam plate and sliders out of the box. Select your wheel size and riding style and they'll send you the corresponding weights to run in your rig.

https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/588/45563

This is the greaseless option. Great in its own regard with more options to choose from. If you go this route, I'd highly recommend getting the secondary spring and upgraded 700 cam plate. The slug kit isn't necessary but also recommended. The only downside to the slug kit is, you have to get into the engine where the wet clutch is. Not a pain but might be more work than you're willing to tackle on.

Belts - I stick with OEM. The 700 belt seems to be better than the 660. Cheapest place I've found it was Rocky mountain ATV.

Part number 5B4-17641-00-00 $84.99

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Rondog4405

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These are two solid choices I'd consider if I wanted a plug and play setup.... assuming youre running a complete stock clutch setup.

https://jbsperformance.com/product/rhino-660-clutch-kit-w-spring/

Like I said earlier, jbs uses grease so you'll have to reuse the catch plate and oring off the stock clutch to prevent the grease from flying out into the clutch face and belt. It's a pretty solid kit and comes machined to run the better 700 cam plate and sliders out of the box. Select your wheel size and riding style and they'll send you the corresponding weights to run in your rig.

https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/588/45563

This is the greaseless option. Great in its own regard with more options to choose from. If you go this route, I'd highly recommend getting the secondary spring and upgraded 700 cam plate. The slug kit isn't necessary but also recommended. The only downside to the slug kit is, you have to get into the engine where the wet clutch is. Not a pain but might be more work than you're willing to tackle on.

Belts - I stick with OEM. The 700 belt seems to be better than the 660. Cheapest place I've found it was Rocky mountain ATV.

Part number 5B4-17641-00-00 $84.99

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Awesome!! Thanks for all the good info! Im sure ill be back with more questions..! Lol:D
 

Done-it-again

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Awesome!! Thanks for all the good info! Im sure ill be back with more questions..! Lol:D
Waffles put you in a good direction with hunter works and I couldn’t remember their name earlier. That’s the one I would go with if you are needing a replacement or want to upgrade. You will need a aftermarket CDI box as well. You might also need to look into a siphon break to keep the crank case oil inside through the breather with higher rpm’s
 

Rondog4405

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Waffles put you in a good direction with hunter works and I couldn’t remember their name earlier. That’s the one I would go with if you are needing a replacement or want to upgrade. You will need a aftermarket CDI box as well. You might also need to look into a siphon break to keep the crank case oil inside through the breather with higher rpm’s
Is a siphon break a must right now after i do the sheave? Man these rhinos are a friggin headache.. Never even heard of half this crap these things need. Lol:eek::D
 

Rondog4405

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These are two solid choices I'd consider if I wanted a plug and play setup.... assuming youre running a complete stock clutch setup.

https://jbsperformance.com/product/rhino-660-clutch-kit-w-spring/

Like I said earlier, jbs uses grease so you'll have to reuse the catch plate and oring off the stock clutch to prevent the grease from flying out into the clutch face and belt. It's a pretty solid kit and comes machined to run the better 700 cam plate and sliders out of the box. Select your wheel size and riding style and they'll send you the corresponding weights to run in your rig.

https://www.hunterworks.com/inc/sdetail/588/45563

This is the greaseless option. Great in its own regard with more options to choose from. If you go this route, I'd highly recommend getting the secondary spring and upgraded 700 cam plate. The slug kit isn't necessary but also recommended. The only downside to the slug kit is, you have to get into the engine where the wet clutch is. Not a pain but might be more work than you're willing to tackle on.

Belts - I stick with OEM. The 700 belt seems to be better than the 660. Cheapest place I've found it was Rocky mountain ATV.

Part number 5B4-17641-00-00 $84.99

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The 700 belt will work on a 660?
 

Waffles

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The 700 belt will work on a 660?
Yep I run it on mine. Supposedly it's better than the 660 belt because it's made with Kevlar. Don't know how true that is but it's worked so far.

The siphon break isn't really needed unless you see a ton of oil being spit in the airbox. I guess people don't really pay attention to this until it's too late and their engine seizes up from oil consumption. Utv Inc sells a kit for like $50 but all it is is a breather off a trx400. I think I paid $10 for mine. You can ebay "trx400 bottle breather" if my link doesn't work

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/163347307822
Screenshot_20181108-134953.jpeg


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Rondog4405

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I give up.. So i picked up a brand new axle complete with cv and boots today from summers bros. I pop it in and its sitting super low again and almost touching the lower arm. And the boot is touching the arm. So i roll it back a bit and the fucking brand new boot tears. What the hell am i doing wrong??? Heres pics of driver side. ( sitting like it should). And then the passenger side with new complete axle. (Sitting all f'd up.) I have no clue what to do or whats going on
20181108_141705.jpg
20181108_141656.jpg
20181108_141725.jpg
20181108_141717.jpg
 

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Is a siphon break a must right now after i do the sheave? Man these rhinos are a friggin headache.. Never even heard of half this crap these things need. Lol:eek::D
I ran one on mine. With the aftermarket CDI box and machined sheave. Had higher RPM's and then running down dunes you can cause the oil to spill out of the crankcase breather. I was running mine hard all the time (slow as hell now) and typically ran without the engine cover on so I could see any issues before and stop.

I phone photos 1028.JPG

I phone photos 1030.JPG
 

Done-it-again

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I give up.. So i picked up a brand new axle complete with cv and boots today from summers bros. I pop it in and its sitting super low again and almost touching the lower arm. And the boot is touching the arm. So i roll it back a bit and the fucking brand new boot tears. What the hell am i doing wrong??? Heres pics of driver side. ( sitting like it should). And then the passenger side with new complete axle. (Sitting all f'd up.) I have no clue what to do or whats going on View attachment 700351 View attachment 700352 View attachment 700353 View attachment 700354
Take a further away picture of the CV sitting low so that it shows the a-arm to the frame. It could be the top arm is needing adjustment out (less camber). After looking the spindle looks upside down causing the cv to run low.
 

Waffles

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I give up.. So i picked up a brand new axle complete with cv and boots today from summers bros. I pop it in and its sitting super low again and almost touching the lower arm. And the boot is touching the arm. So i roll it back a bit and the fucking brand new boot tears. What the hell am i doing wrong??? Heres pics of driver side. ( sitting like it should). And then the passenger side with new complete axle. (Sitting all f'd up.) I have no clue what to do or whats going on
Well the knuckle is flipped right....the only thing I can come up with to relieve the angle is to adjust the heim joints on the upper a-arm to essentially push the top of the knuckle out. How bad is your Camber right now as it sits?

IMG_20181108_151150.jpeg


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Done-it-again

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Well the knuckle is flipped right....the only thing I can come up with to relieve the angle is to adjust the heim joints on the upper a-arm to essentially push the top of the knuckle out. How bad is your Camber right now as it sits?

View attachment 700366

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You think the knuckle is correct? Its looks off to me, as the distance to the lower a arm differs from side to side (like 2 driver side knuckles are being used and just flipped it over to use on the passenger side). Looks at the ear tabs , the long and short are opposite of each other from driver side to passenger side.

Its been many many years since owning one so I could be rusty.
 

Rondog4405

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Take a further away picture of the CV sitting low so that it shows the a-arm to the frame. It could be the top arm is needing adjustment out (less camber). After looking the spindle looks upside down causing the cv to run low.
The driver side(good side) spindle the wider part is facing down. On the bad side the wider part is facing up. Should i flip that one around ?
 

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The driver side(good side) spindle the wider part is facing down. On the bad side the wider part is facing up. Should i flip that one around ?
Are they the same part #? I don't see an issue if you flip it. You might have 2 driver side knuckles.
 

Waffles

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Partzilla has same OEM parts numbers listed for both sides. Wide side should be down

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Or maybe thats the serial #. Ok. Looks like maybe thw same part #
These are crappy pics but. This was how mine was. You can slightly notice the longer ear tab (where a brake caliper would be mounted to) is towards the ground.

DSC00560.JPG

DSC00561.JPG
 

Rondog4405

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Ok so i flipped it around and its sitting just like it should. I cant for the life of me understand why the hell somebody b4 me flipped it the wrong way?? Anyways i think its right now..hopefully:rolleyes:. Now onto the next issue guys.. Steering is janky as hell. Play in the wheel and just tugging on the wheel kind of feels like something wants to snap. Anything i can do to tighten this up or should the steering arms be messed with? Heres a pic of how the rear sits now. Look normal?
20181108_174300.jpg
 

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Ok so i flipped it around and its sitting just like it should. I cant for the life of me understand why the hell somebody b4 me flipped it the wrong way?? Anyways i think its right now..hopefully:rolleyes:. Now onto the next issue guys.. Steering is janky as hell. Play in the wheel and just tugging on the wheel kind of feels like something wants to snap. Anything i can do to tighten this up or should the steering arms be messed with? Heres a pic of how the rear sits now. Look normal? View attachment 700460
Looks good.

As for the steering. Need to looks at the tie rods, steering knuckles, and steering rack. If it’s difficult to turn like you said it more than likely tie rod(s) are bent. Also were the tie rod connects to the front knuckle gets bent as well.

How’s the front camber? Wheels toed in or out when sitting.
 

Rondog4405

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I ran one on mine. With the aftermarket CDI box and machined sheave. Had higher RPM's and then running down dunes you can cause the oil to spill out of the crankcase breather. I was running mine hard all the time (slow as hell now) and typically ran without the engine cover on so I could see any issues before and stop.

View attachment 700358
View attachment 700360
Looks good! What size bighorns are you runnin?
 

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The sxs market is fucking nuts right now . Alternative off road quoted me 140 . Dollars a hour labor rate for basic service . As much as I don't want to spend the time I will be doing a lot of my work myself till the economy tanks again .
That labor rate doesn’t seem out of line for me for skilled labor. Keep in mind the skilled labor pool is very slim pickings finding mechanics, plumbers, hvac, construction, etc is only going to get more difficult and more expensive due to huge demand and a limited supply. In the hvac industry we are over 1million techs short of demand. I’m paying guys more to keep and find them. You can blame this on removing ship classes from school and lack of people wanting to work with their hands.


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That labor rate doesn’t seem out of line for me for skilled labor. Keep in mind the skilled labor pool is very slim pickings finding mechanics, plumbers, hvac, construction, etc is only going to get more difficult and more expensive due to huge demand and a limited supply. In the hvac industry we are over 1million techs short of demand. I’m paying guys more to keep and find them. You can blame this on removing ship classes from school and lack of people wanting to work with their hands.


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Say what you want but you think doing oil changes on a sxs is 100k a year job your nuts ! As far as removing vocational classes from high school is concerned I don't think that's the problem . People need to quit babying there kids . Take away the video games and show them the lawn mower . Hand them a wrench when there bike brakes . Let them buy there first 2k junker and let them get to know the guy at Napa . This started when middle class parents decided college was for everybody . Just my .02
 

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Say what you want but you think doing oil changes on a sxs is 100k a year job your nuts ! As far as removing vocational classes from high school is concerned I don't think that's the problem . People need to quit babying there kids . Take away the video games and show them the lawn mower . Hand them a wrench when there bike brakes . Let them buy there first 2k junker and let them get to know the guy at Napa . This started when middle class parents decided college was for everybody . Just my .02
I think ANY job where the demand for the work outweighs the supply of people doing said work has the potential to be a “$100k/yr job”. If you are in demand and there aren’t a lot of you it’s the smart thing to do to raise your pricing.

Me personally I pay experts to do the things I’m not an expert at. And spend the time I would have dicking with things to further expand my business and male more $$$.

Let say for example. It takes the rhino guy 1 hour to change the oil and charges me $149. Although it seems like a ripoff.

It would take me an entire Saturday to get the parts needed, do the oil change, clean up, dispose of oil, etc etc. that Saturday would be better spent investing time and effort back in my business OR spent enjoying my time with my family. It’s 100% worth it to me. We won’t even get into the issue when a DIYer gets in over there head to save a couple bucks.


Don’t even get me started on dealing with the dumb shits at Napa.

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I think ANY job where the demand for the work outweighs the supply of people doing said work has the potential to be a “$100k/yr job”. If you are in demand and there aren’t a lot of you it’s the smart thing to do to raise your pricing.

Me personally I pay experts to do the things I’m not an expert at. And spend the time I would have dicking with things to further expand my business and male more $$$.

Let say for example. It takes the rhino guy 1 hour to change the oil and charges me $149. Although it seems like a ripoff.

It would take me an entire Saturday to get the parts needed, do the oil change, clean up, dispose of oil, etc etc. that Saturday would be better spent investing time and effort back in my business OR spent enjoying my time with my family. It’s 100% worth it to me. We won’t even get into the issue when a DIYer gets in over there head to save a couple bucks.


Don’t even get me started on dealing with the dumb shits at Napa.

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Order the shit on amazon, or 1 trip to Wal Mart nets you what you need. It takes less than 30 mins to watch a you tube video and then change the oil in a Rhino :).

RonDog- I did the Hunterworks clutch in mine. It was great.

I have my stock sheave assembly still. It needs cleaning and regreasing but you are welcome to it.

You should sell that thing and buy mine :)

Jack up the front wheel. Wiggle is at the 12 and 6 o clock position.. is anything loose?

Do the same at 3 and 6, you’ll always have very slight play in the steering. How much slop is in the steering wheel?
 

wishiknew

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42 posts and no mechanic that can work on a rhino I have had one for 2 years with a turbo and it overheats and can’t find anyone that can work on it! Mind boggling
 

Done-it-again

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42 posts and no mechanic that can work on a rhino I have had one for 2 years with a turbo and it overheats and can’t find anyone that can work on it! Mind boggling
Best thing to do is take the turbo off. They never really worked on them.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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42 posts and no mechanic that can work on a rhino I have had one for 2 years with a turbo and it overheats and can’t find anyone that can work on it! Mind boggling

By the time you take it to a shop to fix you’ll owe more in labor than it is worth.

BPracing1127 and I have been wiring his RZR accessories this week in our spare time. I was joking it would have cost him $2k to have a shop do what we did.
 

Icky

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42 posts and no mechanic that can work on a rhino I have had one for 2 years with a turbo and it overheats and can’t find anyone that can work on it! Mind boggling
All the guys that used to work on them moved on to bigger and better things. Can't remember the last time I saw a rhino in the wild. My friend used to own a UTV shop, but doesn't work on them anymore.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Formerly known as Maxxrhino so if you don’t find someone let me know i can handle it.

Sheeve is cake walk, the axles are easy also, but last i heard Summers Bros only does axle shafts that won’t correct a cv noise you’ll need new cvs or just to fully clean the existing. Biggest issue is the stock cv cups aren’t really serviceable.
 

Rondog4405

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The clanking issue i believe is fixed. Bought a brand new axle complete with new cv's. Previous owner for some.reason flipped the spindle knuckle upside down on that side and thats why it was ripping cv boots constantly. (They were rubbing). So i flipped it around and voila ..fixed! So now onto the sheave and steering issue. Sheave looks pretty easy once you find it. I plan on getting the hunterworks. Ok.. So where exactly.os the sheave now?? Lmao.:D. Do you have to remove the bed?
 

Rondog4405

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42 posts and no mechanic that can work on a rhino I have had one for 2 years with a turbo and it overheats and can’t find anyone that can work on it! Mind boggling
Yeah the shops in my area wont even touch a rhino. I was happt to throw them the cash to do some of this shit.. Negative. Wont touch em. Oh well.. Getting it done with the inmates help! ;)
 

Icky

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Under your driver seat, I sure there's a you tube video showing how to change the sheeve or belt
 
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