I need a utv mechanic

[Icky]

Yupp just looked there's a million videos

 

[Done-it-again]

The clanking issue i believe is fixed. Bought a brand new axle complete with new cv's. Previous owner for some.reason flipped the spindle knuckle upside down on that side and thats why it was ripping cv boots constantly. (They were rubbing). So i flipped it around and voila ..fixed! So now onto the sheave and steering issue. Sheave looks pretty easy once you find it. I plan on getting the hunterworks. Ok.. So where exactly.os the sheave now?? Lmao.. Do you have to remove the bed?

Here you go.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

The clanking issue i believe is fixed. Bought a brand new axle complete with new cv's. Previous owner for some.reason flipped the spindle knuckle upside down on that side and thats why it was ripping cv boots constantly. (They were rubbing). So i flipped it around and voila ..fixed! So now onto the sheave and steering issue. Sheave looks pretty easy once you find it. I plan on getting the hunterworks. Ok.. So where exactly.os the sheave now?? Lmao.. Do you have to remove the bed?

Negative on the bed. Pull the seats, the engine house, and from the driver side you’ll see the CVT drive cover. You’ll need to pull the plastics around the driver seat base and there is a bar that is part of the seat brace that needs to come off. Ratchet strap the engine to the chassis, as you need to move the engine about 1/4 in to get the secondary off. If you are just going to mess with the primary. You don’t need to do all of that

 

[02HoWaRd26]

The clanking issue i believe is fixed. Bought a brand new axle complete with new cv's. Previous owner for some.reason flipped the spindle knuckle upside down on that side and thats why it was ripping cv boots constantly. (They were rubbing). So i flipped it around and voila ..fixed! So now onto the sheave and steering issue. Sheave looks pretty easy once you find it. I plan on getting the hunterworks. Ok.. So where exactly.os the sheave now?? Lmao.. Do you have to remove the bed?

Most likely the sheave is just caked with mud...... dust/dirt from the cvt vent behind the seat, there’s a few ways to really fix that my favorite is to cut it down put a bilge blower on it then a filter. Just remove the sheave there are tons of YouTube videos I’m sure clean the sheave and rollers real real good then fresh grease and your done.
The steering well just handle one issue at a time.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Yep it is probably just caked with petrified grease.


If you are gonna buy a new sheave, don’t bother cleaning or touching the primary. You get all the parts if you order a full sheave kit from hunterworks and just toss the old one when you pull it off. You will need to pull the secondary apart if you get an aftermarket secondary spring and you can clean and regrease it.

 

[Rondog4405]

Yep it is probably just caked with petrified grease.


If you are gonna buy a new sheave, don’t bother cleaning or touching the primary. You get all the parts if you order a full sheave kit from hunterworks and just toss the old one when you pull it off. You will need to pull the secondary apart if you get an aftermarket secondary spring and you can clean and regrease it.

Is a new spring totally necessary if iam buying the whole hunterworks kit? Does HW sell the spring as well?

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Is a new spring totally necessary if iam buying the whole hunterworks kit? Does HW sell the spring as well?

HW sells the secondary spring as an optional part of their machined sheave kit. It improves backshifting and overall performance. You will need to make or buy a spring compressor, or sitting on one of the Rhino wheels on the secondary spring will allow you to disassemble the secondary sheave. I used my spare wheel and the large 45mm socket on my impact gun. It same apart easily. That one will clean up easily, regrease, and reassemble with the new springs and the “slippery washers” in the kit.

You may see my Rhino buzzing around Parker taunting you. I sold it to a family in Parker last weekend.

 

[LowRiver2]

Just saw this

The Pro Shop is now in Ontario and John knows more than most about rhinos. He still works on them:

(714) 892-1300
He bought DG cages and builds that and doors now as well.

 

[Waffles]

Just saw this

The Pro Shop is now in Ontario and John knows more than most about rhinos. He still works on them:

(714) 892-1300
He bought DG cages and builds that and doors now as well.

See post #4 lol

Sent from my FRD-L14 using Tapatalk

 

[LowRiver2]

See post #4 lol

Sent from my FRD-L14 using Tapatalk

Fair enough,

then why two pages? lol

If John can't fix an issue on a rhino, it can't be fixed lol.

 

[Rondog4405]

Fair enough,

then why two pages? lol

If John can't fix an issue on a rhino, it can't be fixed lol.

Im sure he is a awesome mechanic.. He has made it clear though..at least to me that he will not work on rhinos anymore..

 

[Rondog4405]

HW sells the secondary spring as an optional part of their machined sheave kit. It improves backshifting and overall performance. You will need to make or buy a spring compressor, or sitting on one of the Rhino wheels on the secondary spring will allow you to disassemble the secondary sheave. I used my spare wheel and the large 45mm socket on my impact gun. It same apart easily. That one will clean up easily, regrease, and reassemble with the new springs and the “slippery washers” in the kit.

You may see my Rhino buzzing around Parker taunting you. I sold it to a family in Parker last weekend.

No!!!! I dont wanna see it! Lol. Jk

 

[LowRiver2]

Im sure he is a awesome mechanic.. He has made it clear though..at least to me that he will not work on rhinos anymore..

Fair enough, he just tuned up my bikes for the season. I’d recommend him for anything he does fix, been using him for 12 years, 0 issues.

 

[Done-it-again]

Just saw this

The Pro Shop is now in Ontario and John knows more than most about rhinos. He still works on them:

(714) 892-1300
He bought DG cages and builds that and doors now as well.

That place is hopping. See it almost everyday as our shop is up the street some.

Back in the rhino days he’s was the go to guy.

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

Im sure he is a awesome mechanic.. He has made it clear though..at least to me that he will not work on rhinos anymore..

Perhaps he just won’t work on your Rhino?

 

[Rondog4405]

That place is hopping. See it almost everyday as our shop is up the street some.

Back in the rhino days he’s was the go to guy.

Yeah it is. He always has a shitload of sxs's out there.

 

[Rondog4405]

Perhaps he just won’t work on your Rhino?

Ha ha.. Maybe.. Guy could make a fn fortune off me and this shitbox right now!!. I got the clutch cover and cage off today.. I didnt have a deep enough socket for the primary nut..so i had to call it a day. I discovered more issues.. The secondary has stress cracks on it. Also is the belt supposed to be sitting real low on the primary? No right?. Mine is

 

[Rondog4405]

Tossin the idea around of slappin it all back together and selling this bastard! Lol

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

Yes the belt is supposed to set low on the primary(sheave side), high on the secondary.
And make sure on the secondary that it's not just a casting mark you're seeing.

 

[JUSTWANNARACE]

There is also a 6mm x 1.00 threaded hole on the secondary tword the middle, screew a bolt in thier to open the secondary and releave the belt tention, easier to take the belt off and on

 

[Iquos]

I was upset after the winter I took out my boat last year and the motor died (I had to buy a new one so much cheaper ... the mechanics who watched the boat wanted to repair it but I don’t trust them ...