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Imco Powerflow/ Eddie Marine exhaust internal flapper install questions

Bowtiepower00

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My apologies for posting boating content.

New to me 24 Lavey, 454 Mag MPI with Imco powerflow exhaust and Eddie marine 4” tips with internal and external flappers.

Internal flapper will be here tomorrow, I’m going to replace it, how does it come out? Does the shaft tap out? Or do they get cut out/ welded in?

Exhaust hose, I have shields tubing on hand, and new stainless clamps, anything special I need to do when I install it?

I have the new style Imco riser gaskets on hand, anything in particular I need to know when I install them? Do they require any sealant, etc? I didn’t think they did, but it looks like whoever installed them previously used some kind of silicone.

Thanks in advance, don’t want to have to do it twice. About ready to run this thing, getting this thing ready for the water has snowballed a bit. I might throw a thread in the Boat section when I’m finally done in a week or two.

Exhaust when I purchased the bote:
67E714E6-48C9-4627-B1FA-369A6FBCB352.jpeg

Tip with exhaust removed- flapper is there but rubber is gone, don’t want to hear it banging around.
D723BE5C-ED6F-446A-8C86-391B0C32B9AD.jpeg

Flapper in question:
B2CD44F2-9CEB-43E5-B3EC-DA1423243EE3.png

Imco gasket surface:
D190EB32-89B5-49E1-A0A7-673727DBF6E3.jpeg
 

Shlbyntro

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No sealant on the gasket, just make sure both surfaces are clean before install.

Double clamp every hose joint, i like to install the clamps with each one facing oposite directions, I try and line them up 180° off of eachother too when Im able.

The internal flappers are welded in with a tack weld from the outsides of the exhaust tubes, you will have to remove the tips from the boat and drill out the ends and then weld the new ones in. I just replaced my entire tips on the Ultra, it seemed easier. Or if you have external flaps, the internal ones arent needed and I would just cut them out if their slapping around bothers you.
 

Bowtiepower00

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No sealant on the gasket, just make sure both surfaces are clean before install.

Double clamp every hose joint, i like to install the clamps with each one facing oposite directions, I try and line them up 180° off of eachother too when Im able.

The internal flappers are welded in with a tack weld from the outsides of the exhaust tubes, you will have to remove the tips from the boat and drill out the ends and then weld the new ones in. I just replaced my entire tips on the Ultra, it seemed easier. Or if you have external flaps, the internal ones arent needed and I would just cut them out if their slapping around bothers you.
Thanks.

If I decide to remove the tip, any suggestions? I’ve read if they were installed with 5200 they can remove the gel when you pull them out? Do I need to try to go behind the mounting flange with fishing line or a razor? Use 4200 when I reinstall it?
 

Shlbyntro

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Thanks.

If I decide to remove the tip, any suggestions? I’ve read if they were installed with 5200 they can remove the gel when you pull them out? Do I need to try to go behind the mounting flange with fishing line or a razor? Use 4200 when I reinstall it?
Ya just be as delicate as you can. I use scrapers with a hammerable butt and a small ball peen hammer and work around it. if they used 5200, you will inevitably take some gel with it but if your careful all the gel that comes off will be under the flange so it wont be anything youll have to worry about when you use sealant going back together. 4200 is good, but "Life Caulk" is my preferred sealnt for waterline and under usage.
 

RIVERBORN

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I would try to avoid removal if possible, can you get in there and drill them? Also Teague used to make some internal flappers that had some press on brass fittings. Just drill the hole, no welding needed. Not sure if they still make them. The lasted on my boat for a long time.
 

jetboatperformance

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Lots of great advise here I have but one question the 90* at the bottom , what material is that ?
 

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RIVERBORN

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Not sure. But she looks a little clapped out. Probably cast of some sort.
 

Bowtiepower00

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Lots of great advice here I have but one question the 90* at the bottom , what material is that ?
I’m assuming it’s stainless, that had exhaust leaking around the outside for who knows how long.



image.jpg

Looking at options to possibly replace the flapper without removing the tip, or maybe I’ll just run it. I don’t really want to pull the tip(s) until they get replaced next fall/winter. The internal flapper functions fine, I just know the clanging will drive me nuts.

What started as maintenance and necessary repairs has turned into “while I’m in here…” and I’m ready to get it buttoned up and on the water. Ended up pulling the entire interior, rewiring the entire stereo and adding another amp and subs, and doing some top to bottom deep cleaning. Got a rip in the hatch repaired, etc.

I just wanted to make sure it was gone through, hopefully it gets me through the summer, and next fall I’ll decide how far into it I want to get (interior, repower, etc) or if I want to leave it alone.
 
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jetboatperformance

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I’m assuming it’s stainless, that had exhaust leaking around the outside for who knows how long.



View attachment 1214169
Looking at options to possibly replace the flapper without removing the tip, or maybe I’ll just run it. I don’t really want to pull the tip(s) until they get replaced next fall/winter. The internal flapper functions fine, I just know the clanging will drive me nuts.

What started as maintenance and necessary repairs has turned into “while I’m in here…” and I’m ready to get it buttoned up and on the water. Ended up pulling the entire interior, rewiring the entire stereo and adding another amp and subs, and doing some top to bottom deep cleaning. Got a rip in the hatch repaired, etc.

I just wanted to make sure it was gone through, hopefully it gets me through the summer, and next fall I’ll decide how far into it I want to get (interior, repower, etc) or if I want to leave it alone.
FWIW worth the new tips with their "burn proof flappers" are $200 + or- and you could also use 4" softwall for your hoses as you dont have complex bends , we also use aircraft band clamps on those conex vs ideal type
 

BassLakeCruiser

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Just did the same and was able to pop them loose with a hammer and punch. Cleaned up the hole and trimmed the axles then had a buddy tig weld em. Not sure if they are directional but I reinstalled how they were from imco
 

RIVERBORN

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Just did the same and was able to pop them loose with a hammer and punch. Cleaned up the hole and trimmed the axles then had a buddy tig weld em. Not sure if they are directional but I reinstalled how they were from imco
I know the Teague ones are….. for sure. Since I bought them twice. Lol.
 
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