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King Shock Spring questions...

OutCole'd

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I know my car is sprung heavy, but who do you call to find out what springs I should be running? I try calling King and they are to busy to get anyone on the phone.

I know the weight of all four corners and total weight of my car, plus what springs i'm running now. Anyone have a contact that I can pick their brain for a few minutes to see what springs I really need?
 

RiverDave

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Shock dial in is something that has always been fascinating to me.. Wish I had an answer for you on who to call.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

pwerwagn

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If you can take a few simple measurements I can help you out. There are online calculators that can get you really close too.

I’ve never had luck getting info from King on rates.

How much spring preload are you running at full droop?
 

02HoWaRd26

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Full droop preload is one thing but I’ve always gone with the ride height preload.
What’s the corner weight of your car what angle are the shocks what spring rates are currently on there and what is your corrected preload (if spring totally unsprung is 10” top 14” lower and at ride height is 8” top 13” bottom that’s a corrected 3” preload at ride height)
 

02HoWaRd26

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Also understand dual rate vs single rate splits. 200/400 dual rate is really 150# top weight 400# bottom T+B/4=upper spring weight
 

OutCole'd

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Obviously I need to get more info, all I really know right now is car weights and what springs i’m currently running.
 

Done-it-again

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always loved playing with springs rates. From a rhino to a buddy’s sand car. Surprising what small spring weight adjustments can make.
 

pwerwagn

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Full droop preload is one thing but I’ve always gone with the ride height preload.
What’s the corner weight of your car what angle are the shocks what spring rates are currently on there and what is your corrected preload (if spring totally unsprung is 10” top 14” lower and at ride height is 8” top 13” bottom that’s a corrected 3” preload at ride height)
Agreed on ride height preload. I’ve just messed with quite a few vehicles that people have brought me that wind up with negative preload at full droop...so it’s always an easy place to start.

Looks like there’s enough people here that understand c/o’s that we can get you setup. ;-)
 

02HoWaRd26

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Obviously I need to get more info, all I really know right now is car weights and what springs i’m currently running.
Well what’s that info and a photo.
My car is 400/600R and 200/350 front my rear needs to be dropped to about 400/550 or 400/500 as example
FFE0B707-B64B-49E6-802B-33358522FAE1.jpeg

This was when set up with no rear seats or roof rack as i was taking it to the sand but an idea of why you can do with proper tools and time
E765FB48-3EE2-40FC-8A35-6E2441495D5A.jpeg
 

OutCole'd

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4A292C5C-0AA3-4DCA-AD6A-148D46F721D0.jpeg
8C050DBE-FFB2-453C-9CDE-4A24E5714008.jpeg
Rear shocks

Top 3.14.350i

Bottom 3.0-16-450


Front shocks

Top 3.12.300

Bottom 3.14.350
 

Done-it-again

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I would agree with 02 above.
Front shock is almost vertical so it should have light weight springs to work as the shock is at its best working condition vs laying down. The upper springs is more for ride comfort and the bottom is for the bigger stuff.
 

02HoWaRd26

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I would agree with 02 above.
Front shock is almost vertical so it should have light weight springs to work as the shock is at its best working condition vs laying down. The upper springs is more for ride comfort and the bottom is for the bigger stuff.
Yea my true guess would be
150/300 F =112.5# till you hit collars =300#
250/450 or 300/400R these will both give you a 175# ride till you get into the collars but again without preload #’s really just pure speculation
 

Done-it-again

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I’m not an expert. But preload is adjust for ride height. Anything more than the 3” of preload from the top nut to achieve your ride height, You need to go up in spring weight.
 

02HoWaRd26

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I’m not an expert. But preload is adjust for ride height. Anything more than the 3” of preload from the top nut to achieve your ride height, You need to go up in spring weight.
Incorrect sorry, you could simply be using too short of a spring. Has nothing to do with the shock body.

You already stated your spring lengths based on the 3.12.300 and 3.14.350
So top spring front is 12” static
Bottom spring front is 14” static
Go measure your top spring then your bottom spring while at ride height if they are 11.25 and 13.75 you have a split 1” preload if they are 10.5 and 13.5 you have a split 2” preload.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Front: about 2.5” preload
EA78DB39-EC8F-4613-82C9-A8B331339E33.png

Rear: about 1.25” preload i need to go to 400/500 vs 400/600 tho to get a little more preload and soften it up a little
B88F575B-E91C-47EE-B0A9-1DA26CAE6BC7.png


Just an example of why the colar height means nothing
 

Racer56

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Front: about 2.5” preload View attachment 621838
Rear: about 1.25” preload i need to go to 400/500 vs 400/600 tho to get a little more preload and soften it up a little View attachment 621839

Just an example of why the colar height means nothing
Fox does shock tuning for free at Barstow every other Wednesday. They bring a trailer full of spring's & parts. Fox will get your car dialed in an afternoon no problem.
 

OutCole'd

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Incorrect sorry, you could simply be using too short of a spring. Has nothing to do with the shock body.

You already stated your spring lengths based on the 3.12.300 and 3.14.350
So top spring front is 12” static
Bottom spring front is 14” static
Go measure your top spring then your bottom spring while at ride height if they are 11.25 and 13.75 you have a split 1” preload if they are 10.5 and 13.5 you have a split 2” preload.
Ok, that’s easier than I thought. 10.5” front and 11.5” rear. So I have 1-1/2” preload in the front and 2-1/2” preload in the rear.

Trying to push down on the front and you can get barely any movement, the rear you can move about an inch or maybe two.
 

Done-it-again

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Front: about 2.5” preload View attachment 621838
Rear: about 1.25” preload i need to go to 400/500 vs 400/600 tho to get a little more preload and soften it up a little View attachment 621839

Just an example of why the colar height means nothing
Wasn’t talking about collar height. Was talking about how much to turn down against the spring to achieve ride height. Once the collar is adjust to the spring then you preload to achieve ride height. If you don’t have any preload and have ride height then use less spring rate. The same goes if you need to crank down on the collar and can’t get ride height then you need a heavier spring rate. But you know this.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Fox does shock tuning for free at Barstow every other Wednesday. They bring a trailer full of spring's & parts. Fox will get your car dialed in an afternoon no problem.
Yes i had car tuned last year but then made changes.

King goes out every Thursday now as well. King was Wednesday till Fox started crashing the party lol
 

02HoWaRd26

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Wasn’t talking about collar height. Was talking about how much to turn down against the spring to achieve ride height. Once the collar is adjust to the spring then you preload to achieve ride height. If you don’t have any preload and have ride height then use less spring rate. The same goes if you need to crank down on the collar and can’t get ride height then you need a heavier spring rate. But you know this.
Yes no kinda.... like my car if you remove the limit straps and jack car all the way up my springs in front are technically 1” too short thus limiting my overall front wheel travel to 21” right now but also with the IBP’s my car is set just right for flow.
But talk to any shock tuner it solely has to do with measuring the actual springs then subtracting
 

02HoWaRd26

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Ok, that’s easier than I thought. 10.5” front and 11.5” rear. So I have 1-1/2” preload in the front and 2-1/2” preload in the rear.

Trying to push down on the front and you can get barely any movement, the rear you can move about an inch or maybe two.
You have to measure the actual upper and lower springs at static most springs aren’t exact.
Then at ride height you gotta measure both springs upper and lower ie: front is 12+14=26 then you say your at 10.5 top so measure lower also 10.5+B=T T-O=P
 

OutCole'd

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You have to measure the actual upper and lower springs at static most springs aren’t exact.
Then at ride height you gotta measure both springs upper and lower ie: front is 12+14=26 then you say your at 10.5 top so measure lower also 10.5+B=T T-O=P
Holy crap, I didn’t know I need to be a rocket surgeon to figure this out.

What is static? I’ve always been a good motor/ electrical guy, suspension is a new thing for this old dog.
 

02HoWaRd26

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Holy crap, I didn’t know I need to be a rocket surgeon to figure this out.

What is static? I’ve always been a good motor/ electrical guy, suspension is a new thing for this old dog.
Static as in the spring length while say sitting on a bench. Most are close but not exact to the stamped or printed length. But you can still use the printed length to get a static type length
 

OutCole'd

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Static as in the spring length while say sitting on a bench. Most are close but not exact to the stamped or printed length. But you can still use the printed length to get a static type length
Thanks, those are numbers i’ll have to work on.
 

Ballsdeep

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Fox does shock tuning for free at Barstow every other Wednesday. They bring a trailer full of spring's & parts. Fox will get your car dialed in an afternoon no problem.
Good to know, do you have to call them up in advance and set up a time or just show up? Is it crowded?
 

Racer56

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Letting them know ahead of time and what kind of help you need, helps them assure that they have the parts you may need. If you test really close to a bitd or score race, they will be really busy. If you test in between races, they will have plenty of time for you.

Good to know, do you have to call them up in advance and set up a time or just show up? Is it crowded?
 

motoxed

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All these “book” numbers people use are just to get you in the park. They are not exact. What’s important is your car! How do you drive it? Is that an iron block? Or aluminum hangin of the back? How may people you usually run with? Are you a racer? Weekend warrior? Full dez? Dez and Dunes? Full Dunes! And who knows how your shocks are valved? They may not even be close to fit what your looking for! And Setting the spring rates does NOT Need to be exact. Again, it depends on the over all recipe used. Some tuners prefer lite side rates, while others prefer higher rate springs. Eather way, valving recipe needs to match up to spring rates Used.

Ed
The Suspension Guy
 

Ballsdeep

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All these “book” numbers people use are just to get you in the park. They are not exact. What’s important is your car! How do you drive it? Is that an iron block? Or aluminum hangin of the back? How may people you usually run with? Are you a racer? Weekend warrior? Full dez? Dez and Dunes? Full Dunes! And who knows how your shocks are valved? They may not even be close to fit what your looking for! And Setting the spring rates does NOT Need to be exact. Again, it depends on the over all recipe used. Some tuners prefer lite side rates, while others prefer higher rate springs. Eather way, valving recipe needs to match up to spring rates Used.

Ed
The Suspension Guy
You need to leave your contact info Suspension Guy!!
 

Chris Lapoint

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Here is Ed's Info, if he doesn't answer leave him a message or send a text.
Ed Niemela - 714-343-3399

I worked @ King Shocks in Sales/Tech for 3 years, Ed is a very knowledgeable guy and can get your car set up great.

Here is a good site to use for some shock tech/tuning/information along with a multitude of other calculators and research.

http://www.crawlpedia.com/
 

the510

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DC Shock service in San Dimas always does a great job! check them out.
 
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