Late model hemi experts?

[nrbr]

Hemi tick attacked me on the ram! Took forever to diagnose lol. Anyway nobody seems to be experts on these darn deals. Had 2 mechanics turn the job down because it's to much work lol. Do I just go to dodge for replacement parts? The plastic yoke on lifters bothers me. Lifter failure either in needle bearing or yoke breaks allowing lifter to rotate. Internet yeiled same one site pushing not street legal cams. While that sounds fun I just want reliable, easy to pass smog deal. What say ye? At least metal yoke would make sense to me

 

[dribble]

Hemi tick attacked me on the ram! Took forever to diagnose lol. Anyway nobody seems to be experts on these darn deals. Had 2 mechanics turn the job down because it's to much work lol. Do I just go to dodge for replacement parts? The plastic yoke on lifters bothers me. Lifter failure either in needle bearing or yoke breaks allowing lifter to rotate. Internet yeiled same one site pushing not street legal cams. While that sounds fun I just want reliable, easy to pass smog deal. What say ye? At least metal yoke would make sense to me View attachment 805665 View attachment 805666 View attachment 805667

As long as it doesn’t throw a code and light the MIL, it will pass smog. There’s no more tailpipe testing on 2000 and newer vehicles.

 

[mash on it]

With the amount of metal missing from that lobe, the bottom end will only last a few hundred miles. Band-aid at best.
The block needs to be disassembled, hot tanked, and reassembled with new bearings and rings.

At this point, a take out engine would probably be the cheapest alternative. Or slap it together and trade it in. Depends on how far upside down, or not, you are in this truck (assuming it's a truck )

Amazon replacement cam $324
Amazon replacement lifter (1) $24.86
(Only 30 second Google search)

Good luck on your project.

Dan'l

 

[DaveH]

With the amount of metal missing from that lobe, the bottom end will only last a few hundred miles. Band-aid at best.
The block needs to be disassembled, hot tanked, and reassembled with new bearings and rings.

At this point, a take out engine would probably be the cheapest alternative. Or slap it together and trade it in. Depends on how far upside down, or not, you are in this truck (assuming it's a truck )

Amazon replacement cam $324
Amazon replacement lifter (1) $24.86
(Only 30 second Google search)

Good luck on your project.

Dan'l

x2 is a ticking time bomb

crate motor time.

 

[SOCALCRICKETT]

With the amount of metal missing from that lobe, the bottom end will only last a few hundred miles. Band-aid at best.
The block needs to be disassembled, hot tanked, and reassembled with new bearings and rings.

At this point, a take out engine would probably be the cheapest alternative. Or slap it together and trade it in. Depends on how far upside down, or not, you are in this truck (assuming it's a truck )

Amazon replacement cam $324
Amazon replacement lifter (1) $24.86
(Only 30 second Google search)

Good luck on your project.

Dan'l

...what he said

Sent from my SM-G930P using Tapatalk

 

[Xtrmwakeboarder]

x2 is a ticking time bomb

crate motor time.

Hellcat crate motor time*

 

[Bigbore500r]

If the motor was running with good oil pressure still, i'd roll the dice and slap a cam and lifter set in there (replace all the lifters!) You can take a filter cutter and open the oil filter to see if metal got trapped in there. Another important thing to check is the lifter bore - did it get damaged or scored from the damaged lifter? You should replace the plastic lifter guides too if they are high mileage, along with the timing chain.

Douche the motor with a few oil changes once it's back together, and keep an eye to see if there is any metallic sheen to the oil. If oil pressure is holding normal and you aren't seeing a metallic shit show in the oil, you should be fine.

Is it optimal? No. Does it work? Usually!

New motors are for rich guys who drink clear liquor

 

[LargeOrangeFont]

If the motor was running with good oil pressure still, i'd roll the dice and slap a cam and lifter set in there (replace all the lifters!) You can take a filter cutter and open the oil filter to see if metal got trapped in there. Another important thing to check is the lifter bore - did it get damaged or scored from the damaged lifter? You should replace the plastic lifter guides too if they are high mileage, along with the timing chain.

Douche the motor with a few oil changes once it's back together, and keep an eye to see if there is any metallic sheen to the oil. If oil pressure is holding normal and you aren't seeing a metallic shit show in the oil, you should be fine.

Is it optimal? No. Does it work? Usually!

New motors are for rich guys who drink clear liquor

This.

 

[lbhsbz]

I went through the engine in a 4runner I bought that broken a timing chain due to some goober leaving the tensions loose when he did head gaskets...the tension era fell off and the bolts and tension era got ground into dust before something jammed and broke the chain.

I got things as clean as I could, but it still took about 10 filter changes to get it all out. I was changing filters every 50 miles or so just to make sure it didn’t go into bypass. Been about 20K miles since I saw the first clean oil filter come off of it and it hasn’t missed a beat.

I’m not sure I’d trust cast iron dust as much though

 

[rivermobster]

If the motor was running with good oil pressure still, i'd roll the dice and slap a cam and lifter set in there (replace all the lifters!) You can take a filter cutter and open the oil filter to see if metal got trapped in there. Another important thing to check is the lifter bore - did it get damaged or scored from the damaged lifter? You should replace the plastic lifter guides too if they are high mileage, along with the timing chain.

Douche the motor with a few oil changes once it's back together, and keep an eye to see if there is any metallic sheen to the oil. If oil pressure is holding normal and you aren't seeing a metallic shit show in the oil, you should be fine.

Is it optimal? No. Does it work? Usually!

New motors are for rich guys who drink clear liquor

This.

















































And then sell it.

 

[TomD]

Quote of the week,

"New motors are for rich guys who drink clear liquor "

 

[TPC]

Ya need the lifters with the oil lube holes. From your pix you may not have them. Many of the newer Hemis didn’t leading to your issue.
Available aftermarket and the mfg now has them over the parts counter and they are now factory installed in the latest edition of the new Hemis. Gear heads like the aftermarket lifters with the oil supply port better.

 

[nrbr]

If the motor was running with good oil pressure still, i'd roll the dice and slap a cam and lifter set in there (replace all the lifters!) You can take a filter cutter and open the oil filter to see if metal got trapped in there. Another important thing to check is the lifter bore - did it get damaged or scored from the damaged lifter? You should replace the plastic lifter guides too if they are high mileage, along with the timing chain.

Douche the motor with a few oil changes once it's back together, and keep an eye to see if there is any metallic sheen to the oil. If oil pressure is holding normal and you aren't seeing a metallic shit show in the oil, you should be fine.

Is it optimal? No. Does it work? Usually!

New motors are for rich guys who drink clear liquor

That's the route I'm heading. Got the heads out for valve job and deck as well. Timing chain ordered. I had to repair anyways since I still have 10 more payments so hoping she will live out the length of the loan anyways then trade in.

 

[Bigbore500r]

That's the route I'm heading. Got the heads out for valve job and deck as well. Timing chain ordered. I had to repair anyways since I still have 10 more payments so hoping she will live out the length of the loan anyways then trade in.

As long as the oil pressure was still good, and the lifer bore didnt get damaged, you should get decent life out of it. Flat tappet cams used to go flat and we'd slap another cam in and run them for years without further issue. Did a 283 and a 350 chevy that way. Also had a 6.0 LS motor eat a lifter and flatten a cam lobe. Lifter bore was scarred but not too bad, we polished the bore to get rid of any sharp edges, tossed a new lifter set and cam in there, and its still running like a top 5 years later.