WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

Lavey Craft Sebring 20.8 w/ 2.5 L XRI200 Black Max

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
That is fuel injected with 295hrs…I’m looking to see which of you much more educated guys/gals know the estimated year, what types of RPM should I stay in for crushing and top speeds, and of course any other help I can receive for best practices etc.
 

Attachments

  • 25B14EB5-F32B-4C43-8025-DE01F5B94BCA.jpeg
    25B14EB5-F32B-4C43-8025-DE01F5B94BCA.jpeg
    98.3 KB · Views: 181
  • 63F95567-D549-4736-8748-67DE2668C9D9.jpeg
    63F95567-D549-4736-8748-67DE2668C9D9.jpeg
    656.3 KB · Views: 183
  • 6BE98DE3-CC9A-468C-AA63-A6C766B88890.jpeg
    6BE98DE3-CC9A-468C-AA63-A6C766B88890.jpeg
    114.1 KB · Views: 170
  • 7E624E01-C362-4659-B94B-93BD6BEBC9EC.jpeg
    7E624E01-C362-4659-B94B-93BD6BEBC9EC.jpeg
    107.4 KB · Views: 143
  • 9B9B8BE1-D72F-445E-88AE-B2C4A3FCBB8B.jpeg
    9B9B8BE1-D72F-445E-88AE-B2C4A3FCBB8B.jpeg
    93 KB · Views: 143
  • 262820A6-7CAB-477E-9C9C-156ED361624B.jpeg
    262820A6-7CAB-477E-9C9C-156ED361624B.jpeg
    219.7 KB · Views: 138

ONE-A-DAY

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
16,734
Reaction score
21,303
Take the serial number off of the block and you can google sites that will allow you to look up the year and the displacement, liters etc. 5000 would be max on a fishing engine like that. I didnt see any pics of the prop shaft in relation to the bottom of the tunnel, that will be your biggest area of improvement, most people especially those that just wanted to ski have the engines buried. Higher is faster, too high you either seize the engine from lack of water pressure or you die because the boat spins on you. Make sure you have a water pressure gauge and then start raising the engine in small increments, doesnt take much, 1/2 inch at a time, test, note pressure. Keep going until you see the pressure start to decline and then lower it back to your last setting. A jack plate is what you need, manual is my preference, a power one can get you killed pretty easy and or blow your engine pretty quick.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Take the serial number off of the block and you can google sites that will allow you to look up the year and the displacement, liters etc. 5000 would be max on a fishing engine like that. I didnt see any pics of the prop shaft in relation to the bottom of the tunnel, that will be your biggest area of improvement, most people especially those that just wanted to ski have the engines buried. Higher is faster, too high you either seize the engine from lack of water pressure or you die because the boat spins on you. Make sure you have a water pressure gauge and then start raising the engine in small increments, doesnt take much, 1/2 inch at a time, test, note pressure. Keep going until you see the pressure start to decline and then lower it back to your last setting. A jack plate is what you need, manual is my preference, a power one can get you killed pretty easy and or blow your engine pretty quick.
Thanks for the response…I will get that info off the engine block. I attached a few more pictures of the setup, it was definitely used to ski. I have some experience driving my dads Schiada 21 he had and also my brothers Cougar 21 MTR. So, I understand how to drive an outboard tunnel just was more curious of the rpm ranges and info on this particular engine.
 

Attachments

  • 966E4989-A90F-445E-987E-F748BB08F7EE.jpeg
    966E4989-A90F-445E-987E-F748BB08F7EE.jpeg
    223.6 KB · Views: 70
  • 51744A58-CBB6-4E81-AA52-50F5936C45DD.jpeg
    51744A58-CBB6-4E81-AA52-50F5936C45DD.jpeg
    173.5 KB · Views: 67

ONE-A-DAY

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
16,734
Reaction score
21,303
Looks pretty low, that’s a great hull, it will really come to life when you raise it up and maybe ad a bobs nose cone / low water pickup to get it way up there.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Thanks I’m excited to drive it! I’ve only ridden in a 20.8 and it was years ago. Does the nose cone / low water pick up help for not having adjustable jack plate?

I’m hoping to get 70ish out this setup and realize it’ll be some what limited without going into major changes.
 

Backlash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
8,511
Reaction score
12,569
From the second picture, it looks like you still have four mounting holes on the plate where you could raise the motor up.
 

TimeBandit

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
453
Reaction score
812
Engine looks like 1992-1993 vintage?

Redline should be 5800 RPM, Merc owners manual will have details. Get rid of the oil injection if it still has it.

Temp guage and water pressure guage are a must. Change the thermostats and impeller now.
 
Last edited:

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
From the second picture, it looks like you still have four mounting holes on the plate where you could raise the motor up.
Yes, it is adjustable as you noticed. See post below…
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Engine looks like 1992-1993 vintage?

Redline should be 5800 RPM, Merc owners manual will have details. Get rid of the oil injection if it still has it.

Temp guage and water pressure guage are a must. Change the thermostats and impeller now.
The cowling has manufactured date in 1992. I took it out for the 1st time yesterday and was running 6100 rpms at 70 mph. I most definitely need to get a temp gauge I don’t like not knowing where the motor temps at other than feeling the water out of the engine - luckily it has water pressure gauge. It is fuel injected factory from mercruiser. Need to do the thermostats. Why do you say change the impeller?

The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.
 

hallett21

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Messages
10,573
Reaction score
8,171
You’re running a “high five” Mercury prop. Designed for great holeshot.

Provides a little stern lift, not sure what your hull likes.

I’d keep that prop for skiing and look into a 3-4 blade prop. Chopper, lighting ET, Trophy plus, Fury, Maybe a Bravo 1 xs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

TimeBandit

Well-Known Member
Joined
Sep 18, 2019
Messages
453
Reaction score
812
The cowling has manufactured date in 1992. I took it out for the 1st time yesterday and was running 6100 rpms at 70 mph. I most definitely need to get a temp gauge I don’t like not knowing where the motor temps at other than feeling the water out of the engine - luckily it has water pressure gauge. It is fuel injected factory from mercruiser. Need to do the thermostats. Why do you say change the impeller?

The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.
The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
 

stoker2001

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2013
Messages
657
Reaction score
458
just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to get more..
 

ONE-A-DAY

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
16,734
Reaction score
21,303
6100 is a little high for that engine, I would say you can go up a size in prop, especially since its summer time now, in the winter you would be spinning even more RPM's.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
You’re running a “high five” Mercury prop. Designed for great holeshot.

Provides a little stern lift, not sure what your hull likes.

I’d keep that prop for skiing and look into a 3-4 blade prop. Chopper, lighting ET, Trophy plus, Fury, Maybe a Bravo 1 xs.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
That makes much more sense and thanks for the suggestions. It’s a tunnel hull.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
This is great info - I have the mechanics info so I can see when this stuff was done. The previous claims she took care of all maintenance as needed but I’m not one to assume especially on an outboard.

I’ll check to see the pitch for the prop tonight.
 

OCMerrill

All in...
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
24,923
Reaction score
5,755
The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.

I have about 800 hrs experience in a 20.8 although mine is an IO and in its hey day ran 72. The 30-50 is the challenge spot and they all run flat there. As your looking for top speed I would also spend time really get to know how the boat handles through boat wakes in the 30-50. It's easier to punch the nose than you think in the bow down state. I drive with boat wakes slowly going over at about a 10 degree angle. Also I run a cupped 4 blade to stop excessive transom lift which exacerbates the nose down issue.

50 mph on, the air starts to do its thing. Surf wakes are a no go, I get down to a crawl for those.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
I have about 800 hrs experience in a 20.8 although mine is an IO and in its hey day ran 72. The 30-50 is the challenge spot and they all run flat there. As your looking for top speed I would also spend time really get to know how the boat handles through boat wakes in the 30-50. It's easier to punch the nose than you think in the bow down state. I drive with boat wakes slowly going over at about a 10 degree angle. Also I run a cupped 4 blade to stop excessive transom lift which exacerbates the nose down issue.

50 mph on, the air starts to do its thing. Surf wakes are a no go, I get down to a crawl for those.
I feel this 5 blade on there isn’t helping me raise the bow much? Definitely seems difficult to go over wake board wakes at anything other than a “crawl” as you explained. It was a lot of fun when I did get into those waves but don’t feel like getting big air every 3 minutes. Just was curious if I should bury the prop or being it up in the 30-50mph range to help with this? Also I need to look into a a new prop as it sounds from in this thread, but not sure which would be proper for a good overall experienc? I liked this prop as mentioned before but I don’t care about skiing and want to get a calmer ride as cruising speeds.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
6100 is a little high for that engine, I would say you can go up a size in prop, especially since its summer time now, in the winter you would be spinning even more RPM's.

It’s a 23p prop so maybe go to a 25p 4-3 blade?
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
It’s a 23p
 

OCMerrill

All in...
Joined
Sep 24, 2007
Messages
24,923
Reaction score
5,755
I feel this 5 blade on there isn’t helping me raise the bow much? Definitely seems difficult to go over wake board wakes at anything other than a “crawl” as you explained. It was a lot of fun when I did get into those waves but don’t feel like getting big air every 3 minutes. Just was curious if I should bury the prop or being it up in the 30-50mph range to help with this? Also I need to look into a a new prop as it sounds from in this thread, but not sure which would be proper for a good overall experienc? I liked this prop as mentioned before but I don’t care about skiing and want to get a calmer ride as cruising speeds.

A little larger blade surface and then work with a shop to add cupping as needed to direct water back (think lever) and not fan it out (think lifting). Those High 5's have little blades out of necessity. When I bought my Sebring it had a 21 pitch high 5. Al Lavey must have liked those quite expensive props.

I've had the best luck with a 23 pitch 4 blade but again an IO.
 
Last edited:

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
A little larger blade surface and then work with a shop to add cupping and needed to direct water back and not fan it out. Those High 5's have little blades out of necessity.
I've had the best luck with a 23 pitch 4 blade but again an IO.
Thanks I will look into that!
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Timebandit or anyone else with outboard experience have an opinion a prop size and brand etc…? Or couple I rework that 5 blade at a machine shop to get a bit more bow lift in cruising speeds?
 

Backlash

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
8,511
Reaction score
12,569
That five blade is strictly for hole shot and slower skiing speeds. I would call Lavey and see what they tell you. May be hard getting ahold of them, but they would know exactly what works on that hull with that motor. I would also recommend calling Hill Propellers in CA. I'm positive they will recommend a good prop, or at least a good starting point for you. You'll probably being looking at a three or four blade if I had to guess.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
That five blade is strictly for hole shot and slower skiing speeds. I would call Lavey and see what they tell you. May be hard getting ahold of them, but they would know exactly what works on that hull with that motor. I would also recommend calling Hill Propellers in CA. I'm positive they will recommend a good prop, or at least a good starting point for you. You'll probably being looking at a three or four blade if I had to guess.
Thanks man. That does give me a way to go and I’ll hit them up.
 

Flying_Lavey

Dreaming of the lake
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
17,840
Reaction score
12,783
just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to get more..
MY uncle has the first 20.2 Sebring out of the mold. Has a stock 2.4 200 Black Max raised with a nose cone (no low water pick-up). One of the heaviest 20.2's Lavey made... empty he can touch 80. 26p Ron Hill big ear chopper.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
MY uncle has the first 20.2 Sebring out of the mold. Has a stock 2.4 200 Black Max raised with a nose cone (no low water pick-up). One of the heaviest 20.2's Lavey made... empty he can touch 80. 26p Ron Hill big ear chopper.
I heard the the lower water pickup is not a good idea on this hull? What pitch is the Ron’s Hill?
 

Flying_Lavey

Dreaming of the lake
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
17,840
Reaction score
12,783
I heard the the lower water pickup is not a good idea on this hull? What pitch is the Ron’s Hill?
A nose cone with low water pick-up I dont think is ever a bad idea. May not help certain applications, but I dont see it ever hurting? Its a 26" pitch. The big ear choppers are old school tech though and there are more efficient prop designs now if one is willing to spend the money on them.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
A nose cone with low water pick-up I dont think is ever a bad idea. May not help certain applications, but I dont see it ever hurting? Its a 26" pitch. The big ear choppers are old school tech though and there are more efficient prop designs now if one is willing to spend the money on them.
Good to know I just read that somewhere about the nose cone w/lower water pickup, but I have seen you around on multiple applications and respect your opinion.
 

hallett21

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 9, 2010
Messages
10,573
Reaction score
8,171
What’s the setback on the motor?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
I believe it’s 10in. But today was a bad day for me…I had to get towed. The engine ran great first 15 mins then it died and I got it started for about another 30 seconds and died again. From that point the engine turns over but won’t fire - seems like a fuel issue. Any suggestions?
 

Flying_Lavey

Dreaming of the lake
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
17,840
Reaction score
12,783
I believe it’s 10in. But today was a bad day for me…I had to get towed. The engine ran great first 15 mins then it died and I got it started for about another 30 seconds and died again. From that point the engine turns over but won’t fire - seems like a fuel issue. Any suggestions?
Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
Sorry I missed this post! I’m going to check on these things and report back. I’ve had a hard time here in Washington state finding someone to work on it or at least check it out. They all go right to a bad ECU but I feel like what you mentioned should be a starting point before going that direction.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk
So I believe I figured out my problem…I bypassed the fuel tanks all the way to the primer bulb where I put the hose in gas can and boat ran perfect!

My question is I was thinking of adding a fuel pump with low pressure regulator to help move the fuel along to the engine and also removed the tank fuel diverter (see picture) and running both tanks at same time. Anyone have experience with adding the fuel
Pump and is it a good idea?
 

Attachments

  • 3233B5CF-2821-423C-BED3-291AAAA2D7D2.jpeg
    3233B5CF-2821-423C-BED3-291AAAA2D7D2.jpeg
    169.5 KB · Views: 28

Flying_Lavey

Dreaming of the lake
Joined
Feb 13, 2008
Messages
17,840
Reaction score
12,783
So I believe I figured out my problem…I bypassed the fuel tanks all the way to the primer bulb where I put the hose in gas can and boat ran perfect!

My question is I was thinking of adding a fuel pump with low pressure regulator to help move the fuel along to the engine and also removed the tank fuel diverter (see picture) and running both tanks at same time. Anyone have experience with adding the fuel
Pump and is it a good idea?
There are different schools of thought on the pump. I don't think either is incorrect really. I have a high volume, low pressure fuel pump on mine that has worked pretty well for me. It has eliminated the need to pump the bulb and allows me to run higher RPM's without starving the engine (the factory pump tends to starve the carbs at higher RPM).

Besides the pump, either way, I'd just replace all the fuel lines and bulb. Maybe try to flush the tanks and pick-ups and inspect the selection valve. I'm willing to bet the fuel lines are starting to come apart and possibly have plugged up the selection valve as well.

I wish I had a picture of my buddy's fuel lines he replaced. The linner of the lines were completely coming apart and plugging the lines and filters. He slit one of the lines open and it was amazing how bad they were inside.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
There are different schools of thought on the pump. I don't think either is incorrect really. I have a high volume, low pressure fuel pump on mine that has worked pretty well for me. It has eliminated the need to pump the bulb and allows me to run higher RPM's without starving the engine (the factory pump tends to starve the carbs at higher RPM).

Besides the pump, either way, I'd just replace all the fuel lines and bulb. Maybe try to flush the tanks and pick-ups and inspect the selection valve. I'm willing to bet the fuel lines are starting to come apart and possibly have plugged up the selection valve as well.

I wish I had a picture of my buddy's fuel lines he replaced. The linner of the lines were completely coming apart and plugging the lines and filters. He slit one of the lines open and it was amazing how bad they were inside.
Great info…Im going to try the fuel pump. I have already replaced the fuel lines and they were not great but not extremely bad either, removed the selection valve as I believe that was clogged. I’m not putting another on on there, just going to run both tanks to the motor at same time. Need to take pics of what one doing to it but my dad rigged his Schiada the same way.
 

Hydroman55

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2018
Messages
700
Reaction score
1,400
just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to more..
Agreed 70 is awful damn good for a 200. Going to start costing more $ anything above that.
 

HydroSkreamin

StressEliminator
Joined
Jan 12, 2014
Messages
1,794
Reaction score
4,242
EA3A83B3-D3D6-462A-93A5-E19D25B891A5.jpeg


49CB2E36-800D-43FA-8DF6-4A4AA93DE562.jpeg

Here’s the 2-tank/1-engine setup in my boat.

(2)31 gallon tanks, each with 1/2” pickups, 1/2” non-permeating fuel line to the 1/2” ID ball valves.

Raycor water separating filter, all ports drilled to 9/16”, retapped for 3/8” NPT. Eliminated right angle flow path by drilling 9/16” hole straight out of the top.

This system feeds the 400R on my boat, and the tanks are normally within 2-4 gallons of each other. I was extremely careful to make everything the same length and height.

Originally I had designed for the same low pressure pumps at the tanks, but worried that they might complicate the fuel difference issue tank to tank.
 

boatsnhoes

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 28, 2020
Messages
78
Reaction score
30
View attachment 1037970

View attachment 1037971
Here’s the 2-tank/1-engine setup in my boat.

(2)31 gallon tanks, each with 1/2” pickups, 1/2” non-permeating fuel line to the 1/2” ID ball valves.

Raycor water separating filter, all ports drilled to 9/16”, retapped for 3/8” NPT. Eliminated right angle flow path by drilling 9/16” hole straight out of the top.

This system feeds the 400R on my boat, and the tanks are normally within 2-4 gallons of each other. I was extremely careful to make everything the same length and height.

Originally I had designed for the same low pressure pumps at the tanks, but worried that they might complicate the fuel difference issue tank to tank.
Very nice setup! We took it out yesterday and it ran very well. We ended up doing all new lines, filters, deleting the fuel selector, rerouted the fuel system, installed new fuel seperator, and very small fuel pump which we ran to the old fuel selector switch. So I’ll use it as my primer bulb essentially then turn it off once engine is warmed up. See the pics for observation of the new rigging. Thanks for everyone’s help!

ALSO:
Anyone know of a better setup or someone who makes a better fuel connector for the fuel entry into the engine? See pic #3.

Note: this is before we secured all the wiring and mounted the smaller fuel filters you see on the ground. We mounted those very slightly off the decking in rubber clamps. I’ll take more pics if anyone wants to see nore
 

Attachments

  • B3EF863E-4548-4951-B05F-4BA66CDEE80B.jpeg
    B3EF863E-4548-4951-B05F-4BA66CDEE80B.jpeg
    306.1 KB · Views: 19
  • D0E73F13-5E0E-43BA-AA66-57BCAC9EC7EC.jpeg
    D0E73F13-5E0E-43BA-AA66-57BCAC9EC7EC.jpeg
    184.2 KB · Views: 20
  • 445A8994-77B9-4D77-B9C8-130E4F31BD34.jpeg
    445A8994-77B9-4D77-B9C8-130E4F31BD34.jpeg
    138.7 KB · Views: 18
Last edited:
Top