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Lavey Craft Sebring 20.8 w/ 2.5 L XRI200 Black Max

boatsnhoes

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That is fuel injected with 295hrs…I’m looking to see which of you much more educated guys/gals know the estimated year, what types of RPM should I stay in for crushing and top speeds, and of course any other help I can receive for best practices etc.
 

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ONE-A-DAY

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Take the serial number off of the block and you can google sites that will allow you to look up the year and the displacement, liters etc. 5000 would be max on a fishing engine like that. I didnt see any pics of the prop shaft in relation to the bottom of the tunnel, that will be your biggest area of improvement, most people especially those that just wanted to ski have the engines buried. Higher is faster, too high you either seize the engine from lack of water pressure or you die because the boat spins on you. Make sure you have a water pressure gauge and then start raising the engine in small increments, doesnt take much, 1/2 inch at a time, test, note pressure. Keep going until you see the pressure start to decline and then lower it back to your last setting. A jack plate is what you need, manual is my preference, a power one can get you killed pretty easy and or blow your engine pretty quick.
 

boatsnhoes

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Take the serial number off of the block and you can google sites that will allow you to look up the year and the displacement, liters etc. 5000 would be max on a fishing engine like that. I didnt see any pics of the prop shaft in relation to the bottom of the tunnel, that will be your biggest area of improvement, most people especially those that just wanted to ski have the engines buried. Higher is faster, too high you either seize the engine from lack of water pressure or you die because the boat spins on you. Make sure you have a water pressure gauge and then start raising the engine in small increments, doesnt take much, 1/2 inch at a time, test, note pressure. Keep going until you see the pressure start to decline and then lower it back to your last setting. A jack plate is what you need, manual is my preference, a power one can get you killed pretty easy and or blow your engine pretty quick.
Thanks for the response…I will get that info off the engine block. I attached a few more pictures of the setup, it was definitely used to ski. I have some experience driving my dads Schiada 21 he had and also my brothers Cougar 21 MTR. So, I understand how to drive an outboard tunnel just was more curious of the rpm ranges and info on this particular engine.
 

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ONE-A-DAY

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Looks pretty low, that’s a great hull, it will really come to life when you raise it up and maybe ad a bobs nose cone / low water pickup to get it way up there.
 

boatsnhoes

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Thanks I’m excited to drive it! I’ve only ridden in a 20.8 and it was years ago. Does the nose cone / low water pick up help for not having adjustable jack plate?

I’m hoping to get 70ish out this setup and realize it’ll be some what limited without going into major changes.
 

Backlash

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From the second picture, it looks like you still have four mounting holes on the plate where you could raise the motor up.
 

TimeBandit

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Engine looks like 1992-1993 vintage?

Redline should be 5800 RPM, Merc owners manual will have details. Get rid of the oil injection if it still has it.

Temp guage and water pressure guage are a must. Change the thermostats and impeller now.
 
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boatsnhoes

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From the second picture, it looks like you still have four mounting holes on the plate where you could raise the motor up.
Yes, it is adjustable as you noticed. See post below…
 

boatsnhoes

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Engine looks like 1992-1993 vintage?

Redline should be 5800 RPM, Merc owners manual will have details. Get rid of the oil injection if it still has it.

Temp guage and water pressure guage are a must. Change the thermostats and impeller now.
The cowling has manufactured date in 1992. I took it out for the 1st time yesterday and was running 6100 rpms at 70 mph. I most definitely need to get a temp gauge I don’t like not knowing where the motor temps at other than feeling the water out of the engine - luckily it has water pressure gauge. It is fuel injected factory from mercruiser. Need to do the thermostats. Why do you say change the impeller?

The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.
 

hallett21

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You’re running a “high five” Mercury prop. Designed for great holeshot.

Provides a little stern lift, not sure what your hull likes.

I’d keep that prop for skiing and look into a 3-4 blade prop. Chopper, lighting ET, Trophy plus, Fury, Maybe a Bravo 1 xs.


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TimeBandit

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The cowling has manufactured date in 1992. I took it out for the 1st time yesterday and was running 6100 rpms at 70 mph. I most definitely need to get a temp gauge I don’t like not knowing where the motor temps at other than feeling the water out of the engine - luckily it has water pressure gauge. It is fuel injected factory from mercruiser. Need to do the thermostats. Why do you say change the impeller?

The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.
The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
 

stoker2001

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just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to get more..
 

ONE-A-DAY

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6100 is a little high for that engine, I would say you can go up a size in prop, especially since its summer time now, in the winter you would be spinning even more RPM's.
 

boatsnhoes

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You’re running a “high five” Mercury prop. Designed for great holeshot.

Provides a little stern lift, not sure what your hull likes.

I’d keep that prop for skiing and look into a 3-4 blade prop. Chopper, lighting ET, Trophy plus, Fury, Maybe a Bravo 1 xs.


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That makes much more sense and thanks for the suggestions. It’s a tunnel hull.
 

boatsnhoes

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The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
This is great info - I have the mechanics info so I can see when this stuff was done. The previous claims she took care of all maintenance as needed but I’m not one to assume especially on an outboard.

I’ll check to see the pitch for the prop tonight.
 

OCMerrill

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The 5 blade was quick out of the box and topped at 70mph Which I thought was good but I couldn’t seem to get boat from some porpoising and bow was low at speeds between 30-50mph. Any thoughts on what I could be doing wrong? I’v driven out boards before but this is my 1st time with my own outboard and would say I’m still very much a novice.

I have about 800 hrs experience in a 20.8 although mine is an IO and in its hey day ran 72. The 30-50 is the challenge spot and they all run flat there. As your looking for top speed I would also spend time really get to know how the boat handles through boat wakes in the 30-50. It's easier to punch the nose than you think in the bow down state. I drive with boat wakes slowly going over at about a 10 degree angle. Also I run a cupped 4 blade to stop excessive transom lift which exacerbates the nose down issue.

50 mph on, the air starts to do its thing. Surf wakes are a no go, I get down to a crawl for those.
 

boatsnhoes

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I have about 800 hrs experience in a 20.8 although mine is an IO and in its hey day ran 72. The 30-50 is the challenge spot and they all run flat there. As your looking for top speed I would also spend time really get to know how the boat handles through boat wakes in the 30-50. It's easier to punch the nose than you think in the bow down state. I drive with boat wakes slowly going over at about a 10 degree angle. Also I run a cupped 4 blade to stop excessive transom lift which exacerbates the nose down issue.

50 mph on, the air starts to do its thing. Surf wakes are a no go, I get down to a crawl for those.
I feel this 5 blade on there isn’t helping me raise the bow much? Definitely seems difficult to go over wake board wakes at anything other than a “crawl” as you explained. It was a lot of fun when I did get into those waves but don’t feel like getting big air every 3 minutes. Just was curious if I should bury the prop or being it up in the 30-50mph range to help with this? Also I need to look into a a new prop as it sounds from in this thread, but not sure which would be proper for a good overall experienc? I liked this prop as mentioned before but I don’t care about skiing and want to get a calmer ride as cruising speeds.
 

boatsnhoes

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6100 is a little high for that engine, I would say you can go up a size in prop, especially since its summer time now, in the winter you would be spinning even more RPM's.

It’s a 23p prop so maybe go to a 25p 4-3 blade?
 

boatsnhoes

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The impeller and lower unit oil are annual maintenance items just change the impeller you don't need the housing kit.

The thermostats I would do every 3 years or so.

What's the pitch on the Mercury high five prop you have on the boat now it should be marked on the prop.
It’s a 23p
 

OCMerrill

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I feel this 5 blade on there isn’t helping me raise the bow much? Definitely seems difficult to go over wake board wakes at anything other than a “crawl” as you explained. It was a lot of fun when I did get into those waves but don’t feel like getting big air every 3 minutes. Just was curious if I should bury the prop or being it up in the 30-50mph range to help with this? Also I need to look into a a new prop as it sounds from in this thread, but not sure which would be proper for a good overall experienc? I liked this prop as mentioned before but I don’t care about skiing and want to get a calmer ride as cruising speeds.

A little larger blade surface and then work with a shop to add cupping as needed to direct water back (think lever) and not fan it out (think lifting). Those High 5's have little blades out of necessity. When I bought my Sebring it had a 21 pitch high 5. Al Lavey must have liked those quite expensive props.

I've had the best luck with a 23 pitch 4 blade but again an IO.
 
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boatsnhoes

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A little larger blade surface and then work with a shop to add cupping and needed to direct water back and not fan it out. Those High 5's have little blades out of necessity.
I've had the best luck with a 23 pitch 4 blade but again an IO.
Thanks I will look into that!
 

boatsnhoes

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Timebandit or anyone else with outboard experience have an opinion a prop size and brand etc…? Or couple I rework that 5 blade at a machine shop to get a bit more bow lift in cruising speeds?
 

Backlash

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That five blade is strictly for hole shot and slower skiing speeds. I would call Lavey and see what they tell you. May be hard getting ahold of them, but they would know exactly what works on that hull with that motor. I would also recommend calling Hill Propellers in CA. I'm positive they will recommend a good prop, or at least a good starting point for you. You'll probably being looking at a three or four blade if I had to guess.
 

boatsnhoes

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That five blade is strictly for hole shot and slower skiing speeds. I would call Lavey and see what they tell you. May be hard getting ahold of them, but they would know exactly what works on that hull with that motor. I would also recommend calling Hill Propellers in CA. I'm positive they will recommend a good prop, or at least a good starting point for you. You'll probably being looking at a three or four blade if I had to guess.
Thanks man. That does give me a way to go and I’ll hit them up.
 

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just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to get more..
MY uncle has the first 20.2 Sebring out of the mold. Has a stock 2.4 200 Black Max raised with a nose cone (no low water pick-up). One of the heaviest 20.2's Lavey made... empty he can touch 80. 26p Ron Hill big ear chopper.
 

boatsnhoes

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MY uncle has the first 20.2 Sebring out of the mold. Has a stock 2.4 200 Black Max raised with a nose cone (no low water pick-up). One of the heaviest 20.2's Lavey made... empty he can touch 80. 26p Ron Hill big ear chopper.
I heard the the lower water pickup is not a good idea on this hull? What pitch is the Ron’s Hill?
 

Flying_Lavey

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I heard the the lower water pickup is not a good idea on this hull? What pitch is the Ron’s Hill?
A nose cone with low water pick-up I dont think is ever a bad idea. May not help certain applications, but I dont see it ever hurting? Its a 26" pitch. The big ear choppers are old school tech though and there are more efficient prop designs now if one is willing to spend the money on them.
 

boatsnhoes

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A nose cone with low water pick-up I dont think is ever a bad idea. May not help certain applications, but I dont see it ever hurting? Its a 26" pitch. The big ear choppers are old school tech though and there are more efficient prop designs now if one is willing to spend the money on them.
Good to know I just read that somewhere about the nose cone w/lower water pickup, but I have seen you around on multiple applications and respect your opinion.
 

hallett21

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What’s the setback on the motor?


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I believe it’s 10in. But today was a bad day for me…I had to get towed. The engine ran great first 15 mins then it died and I got it started for about another 30 seconds and died again. From that point the engine turns over but won’t fire - seems like a fuel issue. Any suggestions?
 

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I believe it’s 10in. But today was a bad day for me…I had to get towed. The engine ran great first 15 mins then it died and I got it started for about another 30 seconds and died again. From that point the engine turns over but won’t fire - seems like a fuel issue. Any suggestions?
Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

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boatsnhoes

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Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

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Sorry I missed this post! I’m going to check on these things and report back. I’ve had a hard time here in Washington state finding someone to work on it or at least check it out. They all go right to a bad ECU but I feel like what you mentioned should be a starting point before going that direction.
 

boatsnhoes

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Check all the fuel filters, but more importantly, if the fuel lines are older, check them. The ethanol in today's gas can DESTROY non-ethenol rated lines and block fuel flow. Feel the lines to see if they feel spongy at all.

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So I believe I figured out my problem…I bypassed the fuel tanks all the way to the primer bulb where I put the hose in gas can and boat ran perfect!

My question is I was thinking of adding a fuel pump with low pressure regulator to help move the fuel along to the engine and also removed the tank fuel diverter (see picture) and running both tanks at same time. Anyone have experience with adding the fuel
Pump and is it a good idea?
 

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Flying_Lavey

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So I believe I figured out my problem…I bypassed the fuel tanks all the way to the primer bulb where I put the hose in gas can and boat ran perfect!

My question is I was thinking of adding a fuel pump with low pressure regulator to help move the fuel along to the engine and also removed the tank fuel diverter (see picture) and running both tanks at same time. Anyone have experience with adding the fuel
Pump and is it a good idea?
There are different schools of thought on the pump. I don't think either is incorrect really. I have a high volume, low pressure fuel pump on mine that has worked pretty well for me. It has eliminated the need to pump the bulb and allows me to run higher RPM's without starving the engine (the factory pump tends to starve the carbs at higher RPM).

Besides the pump, either way, I'd just replace all the fuel lines and bulb. Maybe try to flush the tanks and pick-ups and inspect the selection valve. I'm willing to bet the fuel lines are starting to come apart and possibly have plugged up the selection valve as well.

I wish I had a picture of my buddy's fuel lines he replaced. The linner of the lines were completely coming apart and plugging the lines and filters. He slit one of the lines open and it was amazing how bad they were inside.
 

boatsnhoes

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There are different schools of thought on the pump. I don't think either is incorrect really. I have a high volume, low pressure fuel pump on mine that has worked pretty well for me. It has eliminated the need to pump the bulb and allows me to run higher RPM's without starving the engine (the factory pump tends to starve the carbs at higher RPM).

Besides the pump, either way, I'd just replace all the fuel lines and bulb. Maybe try to flush the tanks and pick-ups and inspect the selection valve. I'm willing to bet the fuel lines are starting to come apart and possibly have plugged up the selection valve as well.

I wish I had a picture of my buddy's fuel lines he replaced. The linner of the lines were completely coming apart and plugging the lines and filters. He slit one of the lines open and it was amazing how bad they were inside.
Great info…Im going to try the fuel pump. I have already replaced the fuel lines and they were not great but not extremely bad either, removed the selection valve as I believe that was clogged. I’m not putting another on on there, just going to run both tanks to the motor at same time. Need to take pics of what one doing to it but my dad rigged his Schiada the same way.
 

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just my $.02 but close friend had a 20.8 with a HiPerf 260HP and it was VERY heavy and seemed to have hook in bottom?We tried raising motor (jack plate) with CLE lower and tried all pitchs and we couldn't get that Sebring to run over 75MPH.You are doing real good at 70mph with only 200HP and a ski prop!Good luck trying to more..
Agreed 70 is awful damn good for a 200. Going to start costing more $ anything above that.
 

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EA3A83B3-D3D6-462A-93A5-E19D25B891A5.jpeg


49CB2E36-800D-43FA-8DF6-4A4AA93DE562.jpeg

Here’s the 2-tank/1-engine setup in my boat.

(2)31 gallon tanks, each with 1/2” pickups, 1/2” non-permeating fuel line to the 1/2” ID ball valves.

Raycor water separating filter, all ports drilled to 9/16”, retapped for 3/8” NPT. Eliminated right angle flow path by drilling 9/16” hole straight out of the top.

This system feeds the 400R on my boat, and the tanks are normally within 2-4 gallons of each other. I was extremely careful to make everything the same length and height.

Originally I had designed for the same low pressure pumps at the tanks, but worried that they might complicate the fuel difference issue tank to tank.
 

boatsnhoes

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View attachment 1037970

View attachment 1037971
Here’s the 2-tank/1-engine setup in my boat.

(2)31 gallon tanks, each with 1/2” pickups, 1/2” non-permeating fuel line to the 1/2” ID ball valves.

Raycor water separating filter, all ports drilled to 9/16”, retapped for 3/8” NPT. Eliminated right angle flow path by drilling 9/16” hole straight out of the top.

This system feeds the 400R on my boat, and the tanks are normally within 2-4 gallons of each other. I was extremely careful to make everything the same length and height.

Originally I had designed for the same low pressure pumps at the tanks, but worried that they might complicate the fuel difference issue tank to tank.
Very nice setup! We took it out yesterday and it ran very well. We ended up doing all new lines, filters, deleting the fuel selector, rerouted the fuel system, installed new fuel seperator, and very small fuel pump which we ran to the old fuel selector switch. So I’ll use it as my primer bulb essentially then turn it off once engine is warmed up. See the pics for observation of the new rigging. Thanks for everyone’s help!

ALSO:
Anyone know of a better setup or someone who makes a better fuel connector for the fuel entry into the engine? See pic #3.

Note: this is before we secured all the wiring and mounted the smaller fuel filters you see on the ground. We mounted those very slightly off the decking in rubber clamps. I’ll take more pics if anyone wants to see nore
 

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Santos R

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Very nice setup! We took it out yesterday and it ran very well. We ended up doing all new lines, filters, deleting the fuel selector, rerouted the fuel system, installed new fuel seperator, and very small fuel pump which we ran to the old fuel selector switch. So I’ll use it as my primer bulb essentially then turn it off once engine is warmed up. See the pics for observation of the new rigging. Thanks for everyone’s help!

ALSO:
Anyone know of a better setup or someone who makes a better fuel connector for the fuel entry into the engine? See pic #3.

Note: this is before we secured all the wiring and mounted the smaller fuel filters you see on the ground. We mounted those very slightly off the decking in rubber clamps. I’ll take more pics if anyone wants to see nore
Really nice boat! I have a 20.8 as well! Looks a lot like yours! Have you taken it out lately? 70mph seems impressive. I haven’t ran mine yet but have owned 2 tunnels in the past. I didn’t think 70 was possible with a 200hp. That gave me some hope. I wanted a family hull that would do around 70! Nice boat!!
 

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I had a 20.2 with a 280. Fun ride! I know the 20.8 is heaver and the 280 is a completely different motor but a 28 chopper was the best all around prop for mine. I had a jack plate so would start with it about 5" below and once it aired out I would bring it up to even. I also had a Baker RST with a 220 2.4 which is probably a little less power but the baker was even lighter than my 20.2. Also worked great with a 28 chopper but responded to trim much better than the Lavey. Chopper is a "bow lifting" prop so probably will work well on you're boat. Might need to go with a 26 for all around because of the extra weight but for sure different props will change the personality and the high five is a tractor prop. I'm a little suspicious of the speed...at 6100 with a 23 and 1.87:1 gear, 70 would be 1% slip.
 

Baker343

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Nice Lavey! I have a 91 with a 91 200. These aren't race boats but they are well made performance ski boats that can get across some slop with ease. Have you figured out a prop yet that will carry your hull? I would suggest a 24P Trophy. Mercury designed this prop for nose heavy bass boats. 24 is a good all around size when your carrying people and stuff. 3 blade 24P TXP works good to.
Have you tried running your Lavey with minimal fuel weight (5 gal) and have a friend set opposite of you in the rear seat.
70's is probably all you will see with a 200 and running 6500 and below is ok. Remember our hulls are like a really nice suburban's and they look really good in the water and will cruise with people and stuff at a above average speed in comfort. Keep buying used props and test and sell and buy until you find one that will carry your hull. If you want to get into the 80's and up you'll need 300r IMO.
 

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LAVEYNICK

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Nice Lavey! I have a 91 with a 91 200. These aren't race boats but they are well made performance ski boats that can get across some slop with ease. Have you figured out a prop yet that will carry your hull? I would suggest a 24P Trophy. Mercury designed this prop for nose heavy bass boats. 24 is a good all around size when your carrying people and stuff. 3 blade 24P TXP works good to.
Have you tried running your Lavey with minimal fuel weight (5 gal) and have a friend set opposite of you in the rear seat.
70's is probably all you will see with a 200 and running 6500 and below is ok. Remember our hulls are like a really nice suburban's and they look really good in the water and will cruise with people and stuff at a above average speed in comfort. Keep buying used props and test and sell and buy until you find one that will carry your hull. If you want to get into the 80's and up you'll need 300r IMO.
Where is this picture taken?
 

Baker343

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Been there since 88 with a lot of memories but sold it last year. As you know the Indians raised the lease to 200.00 a river front foot.
And we had a gorgeous 110ft piece. We bought another property between Mayflower and Hidden Beaches and a new stretch of river.
 

War Canoe

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For your porpoise issue, I’d recommend Lenco trim tabs. My Daytona benefitted greatly from the addition. 12” w and 8”L
Stopped all the problem...improved holeshot, and helps in less than perfect conditions.
Try as many props as you can....you will eventually find the performers thru trial and error. Brett at BBlades is a great guy with great blades. Mercury blades are also great. Some props work so much better than others...that’s why I always try new ones to see if it works.
 

Baker343

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Rev your input is always appreciated and valued. I know you've had your fair share of clamp-ons. These 20.8 Seabrings came with trim tabs. He needs to check with a level where there set at.
I can get my open bow to carry the nose and its got to be a lot heavier. It won't really fly because it's hard to pack air when you can only run in the 70's. IMHO. With a light fuel load and a bow lifting prop and a lot of testing you will get it to sit and run dryer.
You will eventually find a combination it will take and like. Find a used Trophy and/or TPX, there a great place to start and then reach out to BBlades for some help
 

War Canoe

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The Lenco tabs are fully adjustable...makes a huge difference compared to stationary tabs. Nice dash gauge comes with tabs.
I like the TPX wheel, too! Pitch is higher on the tips of the blades! Fast!
 
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