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Zaairman

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So, I'm eyeballing a 1983 Merc 200 (Black Max?, it's a V-6). Anything in particular I should check out besides the basics? Any notorious problems? The Chrysler just isn't as fast as I'd like it to be.... :(
 

Tom Brown

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83 Merc 200..... 2.4 liter... chrome bore... vertical reeds... carbs... trigger and switch box ignition.

They are decent engines but, at this age, they take some fiddling to make run right at lower throttle. Fuel formulations have changed so you will need to adjust the idle jets to keep it from loading up. I believe the idle jets are back drags so you would step them up a bit.

You will like the power, particularly coming from the Chrysler 4 cylinder.

What do you want to know?
 

Zaairman

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What do you want to know?

Basically, any problem areas I need to check out before purchasing? I'm assuming that it'll be a good engine. Nobody is telling me NO STAY AWAY. :hmm
 

Tom Brown

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Can you test the engine on a boat? If so, and it runs well, I'd buy it. I'd test the compression first but if the holes are within 20%, or so, that's fine for a 25 year old motor
 
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Zaairman

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Can you test the engine on a boat? If so, and it runs well, I'd buy it. I'd test the compression first but if the holes are within 20%, or so, that's fine for a 25 year old motor

Engine was running when removed from the boat, boat had a rotten transom so he's just trying to part out the boat. I will not be getting the motor til January, if I do buy the motor my buddy will be picking it up and storing it for me. Did I mention he works at a marina/service center? :D
 

TBI

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Buy it up :thumbsup
 

Flying_Lavey

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From what I recall, the '83 200 had a particular reed layout that was unique to that year only. I want to say like a 7 petal horizontal or something. Mine is right around that same year. I think. I dont have a serial number plate on mine though so Im not sure.

The only things that I can think of right away is the compression like Brown said, and if you can inspect the stator. If its not looking good, time for a new one and they arent cheap. Also, if you can test it running on a stand, make sure it goes in and out of gear relatively easily as well as making sure it has at least descent water pressure. If it doesnt, who know how long it was ran without the proper water pressure.
 

Zaairman

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So, my buddy who works at the marina (and who will be picking up the motor for me if I buy it) did a search of the serial number. He has the original owners name, address, and service history for the first few years. The report said there were no problems with the motor... :thumbsup
 

Zaairman

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Well, you know what they say, once you go black...


30e8_1.jpg


Won the auction tonight. Buddy is going to pick it up for me soon. :D
 

Tom Brown

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Well, that's.... one.... way to ship an outboard.

A little transom wedge to clamp the engine too would have saved some cowl rash but it will still run just as strong.

Congratulations, Zaairman. :thumbsup
 

Zaairman

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Well, that's.... one.... way to ship an outboard.

A little transom wedge to clamp the engine too would have saved some cowl rash but it will still run just as strong.

Congratulations, Zaairman. :thumbsup

Eh, it's going in the back of my buddy's truck, then he's dragging it to his marina where he'll give it the physical... Including the finger up the butt. :thumbsup
 

T-REX

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83 wuz a good yeer for tha chrome 2fo!!.....Accord'in to tha ole merc guru's, tha 83 wuz tha yeer to look for when runn'in in tha stock 200 classes...I personally couldn't see any thang better than tha 84-88's chromies...Tha port hights varied on all tha chrome 2fo's...I dn't thank a dozen outta all that were built haz tha exzact same port hightz...

In my opinion, tha 2fo chrome motas are tha best/most forgive'in ov tha V-6 motas, wit tha 2liter bein tha tuffest ov all!!
 

Tom Brown

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Welcome to RiverDave's Place, T-Rex. It's cool to see you stop by. :cool:
 

Zaairman

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Motor is on its way to my buddys house now... :thumbsup Pics/video to come soon.

83 wuz a good yeer for tha chrome 2fo!!.....Accord'in to tha ole merc guru's, tha 83 wuz tha yeer to look for when runn'in in tha stock 200 classes...I personally couldn't see any thang better than tha 84-88's chromies...Tha port hights varied on all tha chrome 2fo's...I dn't thank a dozen outta all that were built haz tha exzact same port hightz...

In my opinion, tha 2fo chrome motas are tha best/most forgive'in ov tha V-6 motas, wit tha 2liter bein tha tuffest ov all!!

In English, please. :thumbsup
 

Tom Brown

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In English, please. :thumbsup

Please allow me translate:

"1983 was a good year the chrome plated bore 2.4 liter Mercury outboard. Many of the older racers looked for the 1983 - 200 hp outboards to run in stock racing classes. I, however, prefer 1984~1988 - 2.4 liter engines because of the high cylinder port heights. It should be noted that production tolerances in those years were looser than Courney Love.

In closing, I wish to mention the 2.4 liter Mercury outboard was an excellent engine, almost as good as the 2.0 liter engines Mercury produced at that time.


Sincerely yours,

Mr. Tyrannosaurus Rex. esq."



Perhaps I should mention T-Rex is a highly knowledgeable and widely respected member of the online outboard world and has been for a decade. He hates my fucking guts, for some reason I don't recall, but I respect him all the same.
 

Zaairman

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Thanks a ton Brown. I owe ya a roll of shit tickets. :D :thumbsup
 

Zaairman

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DSC00523.jpg


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Those big 200 decals have got to go... Gotta do something about the scratches too.
 

TBI

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83 wuz a good yeer for tha chrome 2fo!!.....Accord'in to tha ole merc guru's, tha 83 wuz tha yeer to look for when runn'in in tha stock 200 classes...I personally couldn't see any thang better than tha 84-88's chromies...Tha port hights varied on all tha chrome 2fo's...I dn't thank a dozen outta all that were built haz tha exzact same port hightz...

In my opinion, tha 2fo chrome motas are tha best/most forgive'in ov tha V-6 motas, wit tha 2liter bein tha tuffest ov all!!
Hey what's up lizard? :beer
 

Flying_Lavey

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Nice! You'll be happy with that motor.

Ditch that control box though! The internals seem to be well built but the external sucks! Doesnt stand up the the UV (as evident by the chalking already). Just something I noticed.

Does that have a nose cone on the lower unit or is it just the stock case?

You know, you could get a custom Tom Brown paint job on the cowling so it matches the boat. lol! j/k
 

Zaairman

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New controls are coming ASAP. Gotta find a control box that doesn't have a key mounted on it... My boat has a hole in the dash for the key, and that's where it is staying. :cool:

Pretty sure it has a stock case. :beer
 

Zaairman

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So, today my buddy built a stand for the motor and got it set up. Before he was going to start it, he decided he was going to check the plugs. Well, he broke one of the plugs (only the porcelain), so it won't run til tomorrow. Plus his battery is junk and dead, so tomorrow at work he will "borrow" new plugs and a battery for me. Oh, he's also going to pressure test the lower unit, change the gear lube, and do a compression test. Basic testing shows that it shifts into and out of both gears, and has some type of compression on all cylinders.

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Zaairman

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How about a little update, yeah?

Motor runs great, has 120 psi on all cylinders. Shifts good. Lower unit passed the pressure test, didn't lose an ounce of pressure. Buddy mentioned that the motor was running warm when he had it running...

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Guess that could do it... LOL

Then he sent me this pic of new parts he has for it...

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And he's still waiting for the water pump to show up. :fsakes
 

Flying_Lavey

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Was it shooting water out the side of the block?

If it wasnt, whats the point of re-building the water bypass valve?

Im guessing hes just thinking to re-build everything in the cooling system by the looks of that picture. Im sure you'll get varying opinions on this but, I dont really see the point of running thermostats in a 2-stroke, carbed motor. Im thinking they are just another potential problem.

And, yeah, Im thinking that impeller isnt in the best shape. lol!
 

TBI

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I have a nosecone kit I might be willing to part with if you're interested,
complete with braided stainless hose and aluminum fittings
 

Tom Brown

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That impeller shows what happens when you run an engine dry. The rubber gets hot and, after it cools, becomes brittle and little pieces come off. Even a few seconds of dry running is not a good idea.

I suggest you consider a stand alone shifter such as this one and a foot throttle.

They will cost you a bit of money but once you start going 70+ mph, you'll be hard pressed to take your right hand off the wheel long enough to get out of the throttle. How I didn't die before buying a foot throttle is beyond me. Not only is it safe but it makes for a really clean installation.

I'm excited for you. :thumbsup :cool:
 

Zaairman

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Was it shooting water out the side of the block?

If it wasnt, whats the point of re-building the water bypass valve?

Im guessing hes just thinking to re-build everything in the cooling system by the looks of that picture. Im sure you'll get varying opinions on this but, I dont really see the point of running thermostats in a 2-stroke, carbed motor. Im thinking they are just another potential problem.

And, yeah, Im thinking that impeller isnt in the best shape. lol!

FL, he's replacing it all because he's super anal. LOL. The shop he works for is currently building their new shop, so their temporary shop is a storage trailer. Few parts disappear... Whoops. :D

I have a nosecone kit I might be willing to part with if you're interested,
complete with braided stainless hose and aluminum fittings

TBI, I'll keep ya in mind. Don't have the funds for it at the moment though. What kind of $$$ are you looking for?

That impeller shows what happens when you run an engine dry. The rubber gets hot and, after it cools, becomes brittle and little pieces come off. Even a few seconds of dry running is not a good idea.

I suggest you consider a stand alone shifter such as this one and a foot throttle.

They will cost you a bit of money but once you start going 70+ mph, you'll be hard pressed to take your right hand off the wheel long enough to get out of the throttle. How I didn't die before buying a foot throttle is beyond me. Not only is it safe but it makes for a really clean installation.

I'm excited for you. :thumbsup :cool:

Tommy B, Thanks. A hot foot and a shifter are in order, once funds allow. From what I hear, the boat can't handle more than 65-70 MPH as it sits right now, without some chine walking. I'm not really wanting to find out... LOL
 

Flying_Lavey

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That impeller shows what happens when you run an engine dry. The rubber gets hot and, after it cools, becomes brittle and little pieces come off. Even a few seconds of dry running is not a good idea.

I suggest you consider a stand alone shifter such as this one and a foot throttle.

They will cost you a bit of money but once you start going 70+ mph, you'll be hard pressed to take your right hand off the wheel long enough to get out of the throttle. How I didn't die before buying a foot throttle is beyond me. Not only is it safe but it makes for a really clean installation.

I'm excited for you. :thumbsup :cool:

I agree with TB on that one. That was one of the first things I did to my boat when I got it. I think I did it in my first season of having it. The only thing is that since mine is right hand drive, like yours, the peddle wasnt able to mount on the floor. It ended up having to be located in this awkward place that was actually sitting on the bottom of the boat. So, I had to build a little plywood platform for it to bolt to and to level it out as well. Well it was my first fiberglass experience and I guess it didnt come out too bad since its still holding now. But it does need to be re-done. But I will tell ya, Im a LOT more comfortable about touching fiberglass now. lol!


And TBI... if Zaairman doesnt take that nose cone... I think I would.
 

Zaairman

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I agree with TB on that one. That was one of the first things I did to my boat when I got it. I think I did it in my first season of having it. The only thing is that since mine is right hand drive, like yours, the peddle wasnt able to mount on the floor. It ended up having to be located in this awkward place that was actually sitting on the bottom of the boat. So, I had to build a little plywood platform for it to bolt to and to level it out as well. Well it was my first fiberglass experience and I guess it didnt come out too bad since its still holding now. But it does need to be re-done. But I will tell ya, Im a LOT more comfortable about touching fiberglass now. lol!


And TBI... if Zaairman doesnt take that nose cone... I think I would.

Yeah, when I mount my HotFoot, it's going to have to be a left pedal foot. :swear

And the nose cone is all yours... I won't be able to afford it for awhile. Plus, I'm not looking for stupid speed at the moment. Just wanted more power. :eek:
 

TBI

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I have a foot throttle I'll make you a hell of a deal on too :D
 

Flying_Lavey

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That fitting on the top is for the water pressure gauge by the way.
 

Zaairman

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Well, I'm bored. Guess I'll update this thread a bit. Motor has long been mounted on the boat. Trim system is now fully rebuilt. Having two issues. One, no temp gauge. Need to check which wire I have that hooked up to. Two. Motor runs great out of the water. In the water, it won't get above 1600 RPM @ wot. Thinking it has a bad stator. Already checked for the useless idle stabilizer and its already gone. DVA meter is in the mail, gonna check it once it arrives. :cool:

1973 Tahiti :: MVI_2449.flv video by Zaairman - Photobucket@@AMEPARAM@@http://vid140.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid140.photobucket.com/albums/r18/Zaairman/1973%20Tahiti/MVI_2449.flv@@AMEPARAM@@vid140@@AMEPARAM@@140@@AMEPARAM@@r18/Zaairman/1973%20Tahiti/MVI_2449
 

Flying_Lavey

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Well, I'm bored. Guess I'll update this thread a bit. Motor has long been mounted on the boat. Trim system is now fully rebuilt. Having two issues. One, no temp gauge. Need to check which wire I have that hooked up to. Two. Motor runs great out of the water. In the water, it won't get above 1600 RPM @ wot. Thinking it has a bad stator. Already checked for the useless idle stabilizer and its already gone. DVA meter is in the mail, gonna check it once it arrives. :cool:

1973 Tahiti :: MVI_2449.flv video by Zaairman - Photobucket

That is EXACTLY what my motor was doing when we bought the boat. It was in fact the stator.

Let me know if you need a stator. I have one that I somehow came across that at least appears to be brand effin new! lol!
 

Zaairman

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I'll let you know... What would you want to let it go for? Also, which one is it? I've heard that there were a few (maybe two?) styles for this motor... or thats what my parts guy says. :smackbum:
 

TomD

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Should be a wire in both heads. One for head temp.(TAN) The other is TAN w/strip (I think)that sets off high temp horn on the harness. With stats it should run around 150 degrees. In the video it sounded like it wasn't hitting on all 6. Throw a timing light on each cylinder to verify each hole is firing. Could be a switchbox 1,3,5 are on one box 2,4,6 on other.
 

Flying_Lavey

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I'll let you know... What would you want to let it go for? Also, which one is it? I've heard that there were a few (maybe two?) styles for this motor... or thats what my parts guy says. :smackbum:

I really dont know. I have to dig it out of the Box 'o Extra parts. lol! Ill take a look at it and send you some pics and all.
 

Zaairman

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Should be a wire in both heads. One for head temp.(TAN) The other is TAN w/strip (I think)that sets off high temp horn on the harness. With stats it should run around 150 degrees. In the video it sounded like it wasn't hitting on all 6. Throw a timing light on each cylinder to verify each hole is firing. Could be a switchbox 1,3,5 are on one box 2,4,6 on other.

I've gotta check out my wiring... Just been too busy. It's definitely running at the right temp, you can put your hand on the head. It has brand new T stats, impeller, popoff? valves, etc. I don't think its mis-firing, because it idles great, and out of the water it runs great.

I really dont know. I have to dig it out of the Box 'o Extra parts. lol! Ill take a look at it and send you some pics and all.

Thanks. :thumbsup
 

Zaairman

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Got around to testing the stator tonight... The resistance should have been 5400 to 6200 ohms (according to the Merc service manual). I had 8000 between the blue and red wires, and 0 between the red/white and blue/white. :rolleyes: Think I got it figured out...

Oh, FL, I need the "type II" stator with a ground wire. :thumbsup
 

Flying_Lavey

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Got around to testing the stator tonight... The resistance should have been 5400 to 6200 ohms (according to the Merc service manual). I had 8000 between the blue and red wires, and 0 between the red/white and blue/white. :rolleyes: Think I got it figured out...

Oh, FL, I need the "type II" stator with a ground wire. :thumbsup

Ok. I'll try to pull it out tonight and see what I got and get a few pics of it for ya.
 

Zaairman

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New stator, new trigger, and a new trim solenoid (to fix my trim problem) are on their way here... :party2:
 
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