looking for advise from saltwater boaters.........

[H2O]

Rust vs Rot.....this is the question.

It's been 2 full years since I last used my my boat. The lakes in south- central Cali (i.e Nacimiento) are dry, and I can't find the time to make it out to the river. I live less than 15 minutes from the launch ramp in Santa Barbara harbor, but my boat has never seen salt water.

After 2 years of no boating, I've decided it's better to get some use in the ocean, rather than let it rot on the trailer.

The problem-question I have is this...... what to do about my steel trailer? Unlike the Mercruiser, which has some corrosion resistance, experience tells me the trailer will be a probably be a rusty POS in 2 seasons or less, even if I'm diligent about hosing it down every time. I've been looking for a used galvanized or aluminum trailer for several years, but no luck so far. A new aluminum trailer is pricing out at around $5K with tax. Hard to justify buying a $5k trailer for a $10K plus boat, that hardly gets used. Even though my rig (23' bowrider w/ Merc Mag 350 and Bravo 1) is modest by any standards, it's mint, sharp and shiny (i.e looks good to people who don't know anything about boats.) and i don't fancy the idea of running around on a rusty POS trailer, with chrome peeling off the wheels.

Questions:

* If anyone has a lead on used aluminum or galvanized trailer that fits a 23' v-hull let me know. I have an ad in the classifieds.

* Anyone else dipping their steel trailer in the salt? How long before the average steel trailer self destructs?

* Has anyone used a sling launch? I've watched a few guys use the sling and a hoist, and it looks a great way to F***up your boat fast, if you're not careful.

* Are you using anything in addition to fresh water flush after a run in the ocean? i.e spraying "MerCruiser Corrosion Guard" on the outside of the engine, for example)

* If you don't have closed loop cooling, how many "engine hours" before bad things start to happen on the inside of your block?

* Do I need to install additional anodes on my boat. (I found a Merc service bulletin on this subject, but it a long a complicated test procedure - http://www.marinemechanic.com/merc/distributors/mercurymarine/sterndrive/corrosiontesting.PDF)

* From the Merc site - "The MerCathode should be tested annually by an authorized dealer for proper operation"...anyone have the do it yourself version?

Thanks to anyone that took the time to read this long winded post....

 

[CampbellCarl]

Stock up on two products....1) WD-40 and, 2) Salt-Away.

Generously spray down the trailer with WD-40 prior to launch and generously hose down the boat, outdrive and trailer with Salt-Away after retrieval. If no cut outs in brake backing plates, provide some and/or install fresh water hose and sprayer into the backing plates.

Generoulsy = a shit load or a shit ton. Spend money on the above two products not on your trailer.

 

[elcajones]

Stock up on two products....1) WD-40 and, 2) Salt-Away.

Generously spray down the trailer with WD-40 prior to launch and generously hose down the boat, outdrive and trailer with Salt-Away after retrieval. If no cut outs in brake backing plates, provide some and/or install fresh water hose and sprayer into the backing plates.

Generoulsy = a shit load or a shit ton. Spend money on the above two products not on your trailer.

Definitely Salt-away, and bearing buddies. Use marine lubricant in your bearings. Maybe powder coating the trailer would slow the rust. Salt is a bitch, but so is an unused boat. I say go for it.

 

[NicPaus]

I was just asked if I had been to Naci and when I replied no its dry, I was told its not bad. San Antonio is dry as thats where there ranch is but they launched at Naci for the weekend. I have not been in 3 years.



The local ocean launch here is by sling. Never hear of any boats falling off or getting damaged, but never done it with my own boat.

 

[DeltaSigBoater]

A new galvanized trailer will start rusting within the first year, if you're going to spend the money on a new trailer, Aluminum.

Option 1a: http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/boa/4535476689.html

Option 1b: http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/boa/4505774172.html

Option 1c: http://ventura.craigslist.org/boa/4512397701.html

Your boat is too big for the crane/sling on the Goleta Pier, and the travel lift at the Santa Barbara boat yard will be costly quickly. And as with most boat yards operate M-F 8-5 schedule, which sucks if you want to take the boat out spur of the moment over the weekend.

Now is your current trailer Tubed or C-Channel? IMO, a tubed will always deteriorate faster than a c-channel, regard less of Fresh, Salt or Brackish water.

Carl has some very good tips.

 

[Patyacht]

Modify your trailer bunks for easy sling in. It will not hurt your boat and will save your trailer. Yes on Salt-Away for washing down the boat and flushing the engine/drive; A BIG No on WD-40: http://www.wmi.org/www/boating/boatboard/t23387.htm

Yes on Corrosion X Max Wax http://books.google.com/books?id=4PBpwg53GwYC&pg=PA232&lpg=PA232&dq=wd40+vs+corrosion+block&source=bl&ots=5JSKleX5Z6&sig=5d5K3AXm-uyrjKL2rPvUA6NyIkk&hl=en&sa=X&ei=aMipU9SoGNGdqAaSlICwBA&ved=0CEkQ6AEwBA#v=onepage&q=wd40%20vs%20corrosion%20block&f=false

A BIG yes for TC-11: http://www.tc-11.com/competition.htm ACE Hardware carries it.

Merc Bravo 3's had corrosion issues. I think Merc has fixed now. Change your zincs to salt water zincs. There are different type of zincs. Don't let them corrode down to 50% gone. Change them out often.

 

[Mandelon]

I live near Mission Bay in San Diego and launched there a few times and also launched out of Long Beach a couple times for the Catalina runs. Maybe a half dozen times altogether. It ate the painted trailer up pretty good. It did Ok for a year or two, but after that the effects started to show.

8 years later I had it worked on, some cross bars rewelded and the whole thing patched and painted. It looks good now, but I warned the new owner to keep it out of the salt. It will eventually be a problem again.

WD 40 isn't going to do that much for you. It does make a nice rainbow in the water as you back in though. Not too fish friendly I imagine. Rinsing helps, but it will still get rusty.

Maybe go and get it the holes plugged and then rhino liner the whole thing first.

A second galvanized trailer or a sling launch would be the recommendation if you don't want to eventually rust out that trailer.

I would run it on the hose for 15 minutes after I got home and the boat/drive/engine never exhibited any rust or salt related issues. I don't think the boats have an issue in the salt, but the painted trailer will... Guaranteed!

 

[Old Texan]

I live on the Gulf Coast and can tell you for a fact, there ain't nothing you can do to keep a steel trailer from rusting out in 2-3 years. Galvanized will last a few years longer. Aluminum is the best way to go.

The boat itself can be taken care of with annodes and salt away and thorough flushing, etc. But there is always something that the salt will get to. Preventive maintenance will double, if not more, when using a boat in saltwater that isn't designed for it specifically.

 

[allrightnow]

I would always have my hose set up at the wash down before I launched. Just tie up your boat and wash the trailer after you launch. Then do the same when you get it out. That plus Wd-40 on everything should help a bit.

 

[Meaney77]

I dropped my boat in 1 time at Channel Islands Harbor and hot lapped it out to the islands and back. When I got home I douched the boat and trailer for well over an hour with fresh water. My trailer has some major rust issues after the salt water exposure. Need to have it blasted and powder coated one of these days. It kind of blows because I would definetly drop the boat into the ocean more if there was a sling close by and didn't have to dunk the trailer.

 

[pronstar]

A respected boater once told me:
There's a reason why you see expensive ocean go-fast boats on crappy-looking aluminum trailers.

 

[Havasu Hangin']

I used my steel trailer in the salt for 9 years with no problems. It takes some extra time to get the salt off after you dip it, but it's not a big deal once you get used to it. The biggest issue I had was corrosion between the leaf springs...but that can be slowed too.

Open cooling system on both motors. No problems if you just get the salt out after using it.

 

[funk]

FE Trailers in Lakeside, CA has custom dual axle galvanized trailers for around $3k new. Besides that, what everyone else said. Rinse, rinse, rinse.

http://www.fetrailers.com/san-diego-fe-trailers-boat-tandem-axles.php

 

[ka0tyk]

meh. ive dipped mine in salt ~10 times so far and each time i get home i rinse it, and then i wash the boat with soap and i wash the trailer. i hit up my stainless and aluminum pieces with some polish and i put it away. sure its a LOT of work to put it back in the garage each time but hey, it gets me out on the water.

 

[BigSteve]

We boated the Ocean for years, when we ordered the boat we went with a galvanized trailer

A good wash and engine flush, followed by a WD -40 spray down.

 

[ChiliPepperGarage]

I used my steel trailer in the salt for 9 years with no problems. It takes some extra time to get the salt off after you dip it, but it's not a big deal once you get used to it. The biggest issue I had was corrosion between the leaf springs...but that can be slowed too.

Open cooling system on both motors. No problems if you just get the salt out after using it.

I had my '29 Outlaw on a steel trailer and launched it many times from Channel Island to Dan Point over 7 years and never had a problem. It did develop some surface rust spots but I would sand them down and repaint when they popped up. I was pretty rigorous with my maintenance though. Initially I would spray down the trailer with silicone spray before launching and then wash it down good with Salt Away before parking it. Repeat when trailering it. Then spend a good half to one hour washing down everything and flushing the motors at the ramp. Once I got home I would wash everything down again with soap and water and run a garden sprinkler under the boat for a half hours. Eventually I skipped on the silicone spray down. I don't know if it made any difference or not.

I bought an aluminum trailer for my Cigarette and it was a lot easier to deal with but had more flex. I would have replaced the steel trailer on my Outlaw eventually had I kept the boat. I had the option of having it galvanized at about $3K.

 

[SoCalZero]

My dads boat is a 2001 with 500 hours on it and the majority of those hours are in the salt water. We do a thorough flush with just fresh water for the engine and soap and water for the boat and trailer. The main things that corrode are an aluminum fittings and the disc brake rotors rust like crazy. If you do a good clean every time you won't have any major problems. Just like stated above, keep marine grease in your wheel bearings. The salt will pit your spindles if it sits in past the seals. They say if you go straight into the water and not let the wheels cool off the hot spindles will suck in the cool water.(we do that so we go through the bearings every year) If you have a box framed trailer it will eat from the inside out faster too.

 

[koenig]

Trailers take more abuse in salt water then boats. Boats are pretty tough actually. Family left two boats out in salt water all summer. Put them in around end of April and pulled them out end of September. One was a 6cyl merc and the other was twin merc 150 black max outboards. Did this for at least 8 years. Both ran great. Only flushed them when pulled out at the end of the season.

 

[primetime]

Disc brakes and trailer will not last. I had to upgrade the disc brakes and trailer is in bad shape and ws-40 did nothing to help. But the big blue is to good to pass up

 

[OCMerrill]

WD-40 displaces water but does not dissolve salt. If you have a tube trailer it's over the 1st time you dunk it.

 

[GregG]

I used my steel trailer in the salt for 9 years with no problems. It takes some extra time to get the salt off after you dip it, but it's not a big deal once you get used to it. The biggest issue I had was corrosion between the leaf springs...but that can be slowed too.

Open cooling system on both motors. No problems if you just get the salt out after using it.

I have a 1987 Competitive Dual Axle steel trailer under one of my boats. Salt water only after 20 years of use in Havasu. So I have 7 years of salt and it's still hanging in there pretty nicely. The wheels are trashed and the shackles on the leaf springs got replaced along with wheel bearings and races last year running bearing buddies.

Like HH said, if you care for it and it's a well built trailer you can milk a fair amount of time out of it. Once it goes, aluminum is the only way to go, but it will never tow like a steel trailer.

 

[SoCalZero]

WD-40 displaces water but does not dissolve salt. If you have a tube trailer it's over the 1st time you dunk it.

You can nitrogen fill it and that will help fight the rust if it's totally sealed.

 

[Demoman]

Maybe buy a cheapy little something to run in the harbor that you don't care about getting salt on.

 

[Dkahnjob]

When I had my Fountain I had Pacific Trailers in Chino build an aluminum trailer and it was great for the salt. Just washed it down each time and it never showed any signs of corrosion. I now have a 27' Hallett and it is on a Competitive trailer that Is rectangular tube. I would not ever put that trailer in salt water as once it gets the salt water inside the tubes you can never get it clean and in a couple of years it will be dust. I always sling launch it at Redondo Harbor, well worth the $40-50. The salt doesn't bother the boat and I flush the engines. A good sling operator can lift the boat off the bunks using blocks and it is no big deal. If you have a sling hoist available in your area that is the way to go and just have fun and enjoy the local water.

 

[steamin rice]

Ocean boating is completely different from lake boating. There are a lot of things to see in different harbors and you really get a feel for how your boat handles the water in the ocean.

It has been covered pretty well, but yes you should expect some wear and tear on your trailer. I looked at the wear on the trailer as the cost of being able to hit the ocean. If you are diligent about rinsing your trailer each time, you will likely just end up with some surface rust that can be cleaned up without too much work. Are you planning to sell your boat soon? If not, who cares if your trailer gets a few rust spots that can be cleaned up.

 

[H2O]

Lot of great replies and info thanks!

One thing I can't figure out about aluminum trailers........Why are they so cheap on the East Coast and Florida, and so expensive on the West Coast?

You can get a brand new tandem aluminum trailer with disc brakes for well under $3K back east - http://tinyurl.com/n8nqeaa or http://tinyurl.com/lpczrbx

or pay the same in Cali for a tired, needs repair, craigslist special?

Is there an opportunity out here for an aluminum trailer business?

 

[GregG]

Good question on aluminum, I can't really say other than the quality of the trailer is always a key piece of price. I can't imagine that there are not some incredible builders of Aluminum trailers out West given all the crazy cool stuff you guys have. One thing with an aluminum trailer is that you'll want to get heavy (and ugly) steel wheels for it. You will need that weight as sometimes those trailers will actually float a little when submersed and move at the ramp! I have one steel trailer and one aluminum trailer. Another interesting point that was brought up on steel is "boxed" construction. My 1987 Competitive steel trailer is "open" C channel steel, so you can hose it down and there are not many places saltwater can get caught in. Maybe that is why it has done well for 7 years of salt water use. Probably not as strong as boxed steel though I suspect.

 

[spectras only]

My 1990 boat came with boxed frame trailer built by Ryan. Have been used in the ocean,lake ,river what ever.Was always rinsed. Two years ago I've replaced it with an open C channel unit from Tuff trailers of Washington state because I didn't trusted anymore. My 1972 24 Spectra came with an open C channel Vance trailer that's still perfectly sound structurally, only the fender needs to be replaced because a blown tire customized it.:skull My other Spectras came with the open C fotografix trailers and lasted for ever.My buddy who bought my 20 footer I owned for 26yrs, busted the trailer turning hard in the rain and totalled it.:yikes He runs a new painted trailer with plastic fender now.

The only way I would build a boxed trailer today if it was completely sealed/welded shut and charged with nitrogen or compressed air. Local 26 Larry Smith Scarab had one like it. It has some surface rust only now that's no biggie.Once salt gets inside a boxed frame trailer, it doesn't matter how many drain holes are in the fram and cross members, it will rust from inside out.

 

[DeltaSigBoater]

Lot of great replies and info thanks!

One thing I can't figure out about aluminum trailers........Why are they so cheap on the East Coast and Florida, and so expensive on the West Coast?

You can get a brand new tandem aluminum trailer with disc brakes for well under $3K back east - http://tinyurl.com/n8nqeaa or http://tinyurl.com/lpczrbx

or pay the same in Cali for a tired, needs repair, craigslist special?

Is there an opportunity out here for an aluminum trailer business?

In 2006 I worked for a now defunct boat dealer in Orange County doing Marketing, Sales, Dealer Prep, & Customer Installation. We would buy New Aluminum Trailers back East have them shipped out 8-12 at a time, sell them at a profit well below what a new comparable galvanized trailer would cost from any of the local builders.

I've talked with guys from the east coast who think we on west coast are crazy using galvanized trailers. And the same is true for us, we have a tendency to think that the EC guys are crazy for using Aluminum. Since the EC has a higher moisture and salinity content than the WC, it makes a much more ideal environment for corrosion and rust to occur at a faster rate. Even though Aluminum will pit, corrode and eventually fail, the rate of deterioration is much less compared to galv./steel, thus I understand why the EC prefers aluminium.

Is there an opportunity out here for an aluminum trailer business... Yes & No, like I stated above for some reason "us" west coasters never embraced aluminum like they did back east. I think it goes back to dock talk here-say when some guy's best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl who's dad had an aluminum trailer that fall apart on the 405 umteenfucking years ago, and everyone questioned the integrity of the aluminum, but not the pot-metal nuts & bolts holding it together.

There was an aluminum trailer builder somewhere in 818, but I don't know if they're still in business http://www.abtrailers.com/

Another one is http://www.westcoasttrailers.com & not trying to start anything but if memory serves me correctly I think they were buying from a builder back east and re-branding.

I personally would rather have an I-Beam aluminum trailer over a galvanized.

 

[spectras only]

Bought my trailer from these guys. They have been building aluminum trailers for quite some time.

http://www.tufftrailer.com/

 

[H2O]

In 2006 I worked for a now defunct boat dealer in Orange County doing Marketing, Sales, Dealer Prep, & Customer Installation. We would buy New Aluminum Trailers back East have them shipped out 8-12 at a time, sell them at a profit well below what a new comparable galvanized trailer would cost from any of the local builders.

I've talked with guys from the east coast who think we on west coast are crazy using galvanized trailers. And the same is true for us, we have a tendency to think that the EC guys are crazy for using Aluminum. Since the EC has a higher moisture and salinity content than the WC, it makes a much more ideal environment for corrosion and rust to occur at a faster rate. Even though Aluminum will pit, corrode and eventually fail, the rate of deterioration is much less compared to galv./steel, thus I understand why the EC prefers aluminium.

Is there an opportunity out here for an aluminum trailer business... Yes & No, like I stated above for some reason "us" west coasters never embraced aluminum like they did back east. I think it goes back to dock talk here-say when some guy's best friend's sister's boyfriend's brother's girlfriend heard from this guy who knows this kid who's going with the girl who's dad had an aluminum trailer that fall apart on the 405 umteenfucking years ago, and everyone questioned the integrity of the aluminum, but not the pot-metal nuts & bolts holding it together.

There was an aluminum trailer builder somewhere in 818, but I don't know if they're still in business http://www.abtrailers.com/

Another one is http://www.westcoasttrailers.com & not trying to start anything but if memory serves me correctly I think they were buying from a builder back east and re-branding.

I personally would rather have an I-Beam aluminum trailer over a galvanized.

Hey DeltaSig, thanks for the message.....very insightful post.

Your message confirms what I've noticed regarding aluminum trailer pricing......If you were shipping aluminum trailers all the way from the East Coast, then I guess that confirms no one locally was offering a competitive price. Maybe due to volume of trailers produced? Were you selling Venture Trailers by any chance?

 

[BajaMike]

Stock up on two products....1) WD-40 and, 2) Salt-Away.

Generously spray down the trailer with WD-40 prior to launch and generously hose down the boat, outdrive and trailer with Salt-Away after retrieval. If no cut outs in brake backing plates, provide some and/or install fresh water hose and sprayer into the backing plates.

Generoulsy = a shit load or a shit ton. Spend money on the above two products not on your trailer.

Agree with the above. Salt-Away is your friend.

I used the sling and stored my boat at the Dana Point marina on and off for 3 years (until I sold my boat). I had storage at Havasu and Dana Point at the same time (there is a long wail list so I kept both). A trailer launched at Dana Point a few times before I got my space.

Once I had the space, they would tow it to the sling for me and put it away after it was cleaned.....so didn't even need my truck to go boating.

My steel trailer had a few tiny spots of rust when I sold it after three years (mostly running it at Havasu).

 

[Brian]

Never salt water boated in my own boats so its interesting to read all of these stories. Really sounds like salt is a trailer killer more than a boat or engine killer.

Has anyone gone from retrieving the boat out of salt directly to a local fresh water lake and run around for a few laps? While the boat is in the local lake you could dip the trailer in an out of the water 10 times or so to get the salt out of the hard to reach places.

Seems like you could get the boat cooling flushed and the trailer fixed up this way real quickly.

 

[DeltaSigBoater]

Hey DeltaSig, thanks for the message.....very insightful post.

Your message confirms what I've noticed regarding aluminum trailer pricing......If you were shipping aluminum trailers all the way from the East Coast, then I guess that confirms no one locally was offering a competitive price. Maybe due to volume of trailers produced? Were you selling Venture Trailers by any chance?

Nope, we were selling Performance Trailers, which fell victim to economy. If memory serves me right they were build somewhere around Sarasota or Tampa.

 

[spectras only]

Has anyone gone from retrieving the boat out of salt directly to a local fresh water lake and run around for a few laps? While the boat is in the local lake you could dip the trailer in an out of the water 10 times or so to get the salt out of the hard to reach places.

The ocean and the river is less than 10 miles apart in my area where I live. The river is only 5 min away.When I launch in salt in the Inlet, at the end of the day taking the boat to my storage, I dip the boat in the river and run the engine for 5 minutes or so soaking the trailer. Going for further trips like going over to Vancouver Island, I launch in the Fraser River close by the Vancouver airport, going out to Georgia Strait so never need to deal with salt returning into fresh water.