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Looking for first motorhome (possibly)

RiverDave

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With our situation a toy hauler isn’t going to work. My can am is as long as a truck, plus I have the kids Sxs and other stuff. I have an f150 so I’d need to buy a larger truck and a larger toy hauler etc and I think that’s gonna get crazy expensive quick.

We absolutely LOVE our little toy hauler but Stacy abd I taking two trucks and two trailers everywhere isn’t an option.

I decided to buy Glenn’s 24’ enclosed trailer (which should be more than long enough to haul my dirt toys & pull double duty as a vending trailer for shows etc!). And we are looking to purchase our first motorhome to go camping in and pull this trailer as well as a 30-36’ center console.. (possibly selling both my boats and getting a used one)


All that said
family of 5
Must be able to pull a decent load 12k easily
Budget of 100’ish or less? Budget can be flexible If something extraordinary is right above it.


What’s the best options out there?
 

BLOWN HOWARD

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the 12k tow capacity will narrow it down possibly a Renegade or something along those lines
 

Bigbore500r

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If you are looking to haul 12,000 realistically, you are going to need to go Diesel pusher 350hp +. That's stacker trailer territory. Not just for the torque, but for the chassis ability to handle the weight. Nothing is going to do it "easily" but it will do it. I wouldn't hitch up much beyond 8k behind your average gasser Class A
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Having had a ton of them, go with a Fleetwood Revolution, you will find them under $100k, we sold our last one, a 2006 for 90k. They are one of the few motorhomes rated to tow 15,000 pound, and the Spartan chassis is far and above anything that comes from the typical freightliner offerings.

There is one for sale on the side of the house on Kiowa north of McCulloch.
 

Waffles

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Ballsdeep

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getch

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Not 100% sure on the laws out there, but keep in mind your overall length. Isnt 65' usually the max? Is that overall tip to tip? That 24' trailer has gotta be 30' overall itself, not to mention a 30+ console on a trailer.
 

OLDRAAT

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RD,
The guy named "Bubba" who's boat you were on when falling has a toterhome and drags that CC behind it. They travel a lot. Think the deal about 80' or more long.
 

ParkerMagic

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Is there length restrictions in AZ like there is in CA? If so be cautious as a 24' enclosed is really 28'. Add a 35' moho and your close...
 

Tank

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RD,
The guy named "Bubba" who's boat you were on when falling has a toterhome and drags that CC behind it. They travel a lot. Think the deal about 80' or more long.
Just for the record RD was crossing off of Kelly’s tiger and fell on some other dudes Tiger that turned out to be a huge asshole. It was NOT Bubbas boat. Don’t want anyone confusing the two as there may be words or more exchanged down the road with the dude that owned the boat RD fell on and Bubba is actually a super good dude.

However, Bubbas set up is over the top. Maybe a bit extreme for a Johnson family truckster. Lol

EC238DAF-DA54-49B9-B8B6-5D98576C2A7F.jpeg
 

RCDave

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12K towing is a tall order for even most Diesel Pushers. The ones capable will have premium chassis, big block cummins (or like) powerplants, 40' + lengths, etc. Very costly coaches.

There are some front engine Super C chassis rated for that. But again are big money
 

RiverDave

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RD,
The guy named "Bubba" who's boat you were on when falling has a toterhome and drags that CC behind it. They travel a lot. Think the deal about 80' or more long.
That’s who’s boat I was going too. Lol. Not the one I was on. His wife is the one that kinda patched me up
 

RiverDave

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Well make it 10k on the towing then.. A 30-36’ CC couldn’t weight that much. Not looking for a wide beam double throw down deal.. just something with twin outboards like Lucky strike just smaller
 

RCDave

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Given you are looking to sleep the family too, a Super C might fit the bill best, as they are available with the overhead bed over the cab.

Most higher end DP's will sleep 3-5 but most aren't designed for more.
 

BIGRED9158

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What about a toterhome like a used renegade or something along those lines check out racingrv.com in the past they have had a lot of stacker toterhome combos under 120k
 

Ballsdeep

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I can tell you with a family of 5 you will probably need an extra water tank on the trailer. We are usually okay for 3 nights or so but anymore than that and I have to transfer water and I ride the wife and kids about limiting shower time and dishes. Most Class A's hold ~90-100 gallons of Fresh. Class C's are usually in the 40-50 gallon range.
 

OLDRAAT

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Tank, thanks for the update/clarification. Though he had made it over. I know Chris since he's a grand laker and he is a solid guy. Sad that the other boat owner was an ass.
 

RiverDiva

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And for Diva's 2 cents. I'm really looking for one with bunk beds. I have a couple friends with them and I think it will be nice to keep the kids out of the living area while sleeping in case we want to hang out. Not to mention my kids fight like crazy...I'm looking to keep them all separated.
On budget I'd like to stay closer to $80k if possible.
I need a decent size fridge. Preferably full size.
 

BIGRED9158

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And for Diva's 2 cents. I'm really looking for one with bunk beds. I have a couple friends with them and I think it will be nice to keep the kids out of the living area while sleeping in case we want to hang out. Not to mention my kids fight like crazy...I'm looking to keep them all separated.
On budget I'd like to stay closer to $80k if possible.
I need a decent size fridge. Preferably full size.
I believe some of the trailers on racing rv.com have like 4 bunks and a king bed in the rear
 

Bigbore500r

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And for Diva's 2 cents. I'm really looking for one with bunk beds. I have a couple friends with them and I think it will be nice to keep the kids out of the living area while sleeping in case we want to hang out. Not to mention my kids fight like crazy...I'm looking to keep them all separated.
BUNKS RULE!

We looked everywhere when buying ours last year, and decided the bunk bed floorplan was a must. It is great, we've had 3 toy haulers, and 1 class C motorhome in the past. None compare to the comfort of this motor home. The bunk beds are awesome for us as there is no mess to clean up in morning, all the kids stuff stays in the bunks and the beds are permanently set up. You walk out in the morning into the living room area / kitchen and the couch and table are still a couch and table, no blankets everywhere, etc. The kids love it too. Ours is a 35' bunkhouse floorplan, ee love it. If we need it, the couch and dinette make out to beds too, for a total of 5 seperate beds!











 
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69hondo

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Go diesel, even if you dont need it now you will. That 24 foot enclosed will be out of room before you know it. I have a class A 32' gasser pulling a 24 foot enclosed LOADED. I want a 26 to 28 foot trailer now and the mileage of a diesel. The gasser motorhomes use a lot of gas when loaded. The diesels dont know if they are pulling a load or not mileage wise. Oh and side radiator.
 

spectras only

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Dave, you should look into the super C's. I like the fact the engine is up front. Most rear pushers have no structural strength up front, in case a head on scenario, your ankles are fucked in the least if frontal accident happens;). Here's one that I like, price is in canadian and I'm sure it's negotiable.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2369945446468524/
 
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Ballsdeep

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Go diesel, even if you dont need it now you will. That 24 foot enclosed will be out of room before you know it. I have a class A 32' gasser pulling a 24 foot enclosed LOADED. I want a 26 to 28 foot trailer now and the mileage of a diesel. The gasser motorhomes use a lot of gas when loaded. The diesels dont know if they are pulling a load or not mileage wise. Oh and side radiator.
I dont know that the mileage is much better with a diesel, I average 8 MPG towing if I am lucky, and dont see much difference when not towing.
 
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DaveC

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E66AB657-1B2A-4853-BA42-3072B7F3B970.jpeg
B263B8ED-1A35-482D-8D5F-BD0F97EB5EFE.jpeg
Sounds like the boss has spoken

This is what I have. I tow a 24’ enclosed. I also tow my 27’ boat. Both are within tow ratings 10,000#.

Its a Class A gas. Runs good for what we do with it. They are available in bunks models.
 
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Ballsdeep

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@RiverDave Maybe go with a smaller diesel Motorhome and keep the toy hauler enclosed to transport the toys and give the kids a place to call home. It has bunk beds, and everything you need for them and then you guys have your motorhome and your not tripping over kid stuff all of the time like we do!!
 

Bigbore500r

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@RiverDave Maybe go with a smaller diesel Motorhome and keep the toy hauler enclosed to transport the toys and give the kids a place to call home. It has bunk beds, and everything you need for them and then you guys have your motorhome and your not tripping over kid stuff all of the time like we do!!
That would be the ultimate! Then you get the extra bathroom, extra 100+ gallons of water, etc etc etc. And when the motorhome is rockin, tell the kids to skip knockin.........
- That's the biggest burn of the bunk bed setup. Your kids are right there with ya.....which is cool 90% of the time :cool::D
 

BajaMike

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View attachment 837070 View attachment 837069 Sounds like the boss has spoken

This is what I have. I tow a 24’ enclosed. I also tow my 27’ boat. Both are within tow ratings 10,000#.

Its a Class A gas. Runs good for what we do with it. They ate available in bunks models.
That’s a nice setup. Do have problems getting into driveways and gas stations with the big over hang behind the rear axel plus the trailer? Probably have to plan ahead on your stops. Really nice looking rigs!
 

RichL

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Well make it 10k on the towing then.. A 30-36’ CC couldn’t weight that much. Not looking for a wide beam double throw down deal.. just something with twin outboards like Lucky strike just smaller
Two things come to mind. 1. My 29' Formula with trailer, gear, fuel, etc. rolls right in the neighborhood of 9500 lbs. You can use that for weight comparison. 2. Is your 150 legally (insurance coverage wise) up to pulling something in the 30'-36' size range around town to launch and retrieve or are you planning to use the moho all the time?
 

spectras only

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If keeping your trailer, get the smallest diesel pusher like a Tiffin Allegro Breeze.

 

DaveC

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No. Never scrape. I go off-road often. Been stuck at Pismo a couple times. Lol

there is a big rear over hang but a lot of ground clearance. More so than a Class C.

I had to get a a longer hitch but thats all.

As opposed to my old Class C and standard car hauler which scrapped constantly.


Also the longer rear rear end helps with sharp corners. When you crank the wheel one way it walks the trailer the opposite way. Helps with sharp corners. Just watch out at gas pumps.


That’s a nice setup. Do have problems getting into driveways and gas stations with the big over hang behind the rear axel plus the trailer? Probably have to plan ahead on your stops. Really nice looking rigs!
 

HBCraig

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Well make it 10k on the towing then.. A 30-36’ CC couldn’t weight that much. Not looking for a wide beam double throw down deal.. just something with twin outboards like Lucky strike just smaller
I have had several motorhomes.

Your requirements will be limited to a Class A pusher or a super C or a renegade type. My one suggestion to you is DO NOTopt for table and chairs but get one with a dinette instead as it will be a bed
 

DWC

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The 32’ CC that Outdrive has looks nice..
 

SLEEK28

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Fleetwood Bounder.jpeg
HI Dave. My folks have passed that age where they feel safe driving their motorhome and are ready to let it go. With having to relocate them and get them moved back to our hometown, we just haven't had time to detail it, take pictures, and get it listed. I know it will be well within your price range. It is a 38' Bounder Diesel triple slide (I believe it a 2007 with about 35k miles, but I'll have to double check). They optioned it right with W/D , full body paint, etc. PM me if you would like any details.
 

Waffles

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View attachment 837070 View attachment 837069 Sounds like the boss has spoken

This is what I have. I tow a 24’ enclosed. I also tow my 27’ boat. Both are within tow ratings 10,000#.

Its a Class A gas. Runs good for what we do with it. They are available in bunks models.
My biggest pet peeve about georgetowns were the flimsy bay doors. A friend of mine has one and the overall build quality on all the newer rigs feels cheap.
 

ToMorrow44

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Well make it 10k on the towing then.. A 30-36’ CC couldn’t weight that much. Not looking for a wide beam double throw down deal.. just something with twin outboards like Lucky strike just smaller
I think with a trailer, any 30+ center console is gonna be well over 10k. 34 Sunsation, 34 Nor-Tech, and 34 Fountain CC all have dry weights between 9000-1000lbs, and they’re the lighter “sportier” CC
 

DaveC

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Which door the main entry door? Or cargo doors?

My main entry door broke. Cheap ass flimsy piece of ship.

So I agree.

:D

My biggest pet peeve about georgetowns were the flimsy bay doors. A friend of mine has one and the overall build quality on all the newer rigs feels cheap.
All these RV's were built by monkeys on a Friday after a 2 martini lunch with stick and match books and Elmers glue. Pieces of ship all of them.
 

Bigbore500r

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Which door the main entry door? Or cargo doors?

My main entry door broke. Cheap ass flimsy piece of ship.

So I agree.

:D

All these RV's were built by monkeys on a Friday after a 2 martini lunch with stick and match books and Elmers glue. Pieces of ship all of them.
I bought my 2007 Coachman "as is" (used) with a ton of stuff not working, and here what I found that was wrong from the factory . . .

- Original owner said he could never get the leveling jacks to work. It turns out the mfg never connected and extended the neutral safety switch wiring to the jack control module, so it had no way of knowing the vehicle was in park or neutral, hence it would not operate the jacks. Ran a wire back to the module and landed it, and that fixed the jacks.

- The RV would go thru 2 sets of batteries a year according to the owner. After replacing the batteries, came to realize the charge converter was working sporadically and not charging more than 10-15 seconds at a time. You could see it kicking "off" and "on" and the lights dimming. Replaced the charge converter, and now it charges....

- After replacing the charge converter, it became clear that the converter, and the entire coach, was wired to the chassis battery only, and not the house batteries.......from the factory! Re-did the wiring and routed it to the proper spot, so it would charge the house batteries and the coach would use the house batteries. This explains why it ate batteries....it never charged them to begin with! The house batteries only started the generator and operated the slides...once they were dead, they had no way of charging lol.

Scary!
 

DaveC

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Good thing you only had a few issues. :p;) Imagine if it was a lot of issues, for an RV that is since it is all relative.;)o_O

I have so many issues we don't have enough time to talk about them. Been like that with all my RV's not just this one.

I keep buying new, you know, so I don't have to work on it. FML Each one has been an unmitigated disaster. Now I am a pro at fixing these pieces of garbage.

Watering systems, water heater, jacks, breakers, charging, TV's, sliders, etc. etc. etc.

We should open up an RV repair facility with all our experience.

I bought my 2007 Coachman "as is" (used) with a ton of stuff not working, and here what I found that was wrong from the factory . . .

- Original owner said he could never get the leveling jacks to work. It turns out the mfg never connected and extended the neutral safety switch wiring to the jack control module, so it had no way of knowing the vehicle was in park or neutral, hence it would not operate the jacks. Ran a wire back to the module and landed it, and that fixed the jacks.

- The RV would go thru 2 sets of batteries a year according to the owner. After replacing the batteries, came to realize the charge converter was working sporadically and not charging more than 10-15 seconds at a time. You could see it kicking "off" and "on" and the lights dimming. Replaced the charge converter, and now it charges....

- After replacing the charge converter, it became clear that the converter, and the entire coach, was wired to the chassis battery only, and not the house batteries.......from the factory! Re-did the wiring and routed it to the proper spot, so it would charge the house batteries and the coach would use the house batteries. This explains why it ate batteries....it never charged them to begin with! The house batteries only started the generator and operated the slides...once they were dead, they had no way of charging lol.

Scary!
 

rivermobster

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With our situation a toy hauler isn’t going to work. My can am is as long as a truck, plus I have the kids Sxs and other stuff. I have an f150 so I’d need to buy a larger truck and a larger toy hauler etc and I think that’s gonna get crazy expensive quick.

We absolutely LOVE our little toy hauler but Stacy abd I taking two trucks and two trailers everywhere isn’t an option.

I decided to buy Glenn’s 24’ enclosed trailer (which should be more than long enough to haul my dirt toys & pull double duty as a vending trailer for shows etc!). And we are looking to purchase our first motorhome to go camping in and pull this trailer as well as a 30-36’ center console.. (possibly selling both my boats and getting a used one)


All that said
family of 5
Must be able to pull a decent load 12k easily
Budget of 100’ish or less? Budget can be flexible If something extraordinary is right above it.


What’s the best options out there?
Best option?

Rent one when you need one. It's not like you HAve to go anywhere to ride, so often are you going to NEED one?

Let someone else pay the insurance, the registration, make the repairs on it, and keep it maintained. Batteries, propane, chemicals, the list goes on and on. Did I mention tires and brakes? Oil changes and trans services? Coolant? It absolutely Never ends!!!

RVs are a major league money suck. Rent one and give it back when you're done.

@RiverDiva @RiverDave
 

Bigbore500r

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Good thing you only had a few issues. :p;) Imagine if it was a lot of issues, for an RV that is since it is all relative.;)o_O

I have so many issues we don't have enough time to talk about them. Been like that with all my RV's not just this one.

I keep buying new, you know, so I don't have to work on it. FML Each one has been an unmitigated disaster. Now I am a pro at fixing these pieces of garbage.

Watering systems, water heater, jacks, breakers, charging, TV's, sliders, etc. etc. etc.

We should open up an RV repair facility with all our experience.
This is worth a watch......

 

Bigbore500r

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Best option?

Rent one when you need one. It's not like you HAve to go anywhere to ride, so often are you going to NEED one?

Let someone else pay the insurance, the registration, make the repairs on it, and keep it maintained. Batteries, propane, chemicals, the list goes on and on. Did I mention tires and brakes? Oil changes and trans services? Coolant? It absolutely Never ends!!!

RVs are a major league money suck. Rent one and give it back when you're done.

@RiverDiva @RiverDave
Good points, but man it is a pain in the ass to rent too. 3/4 of the battle is getting ready for a trip, and if you have your own RV 90% of your shit lives in the RV and is ready to roll. Tools, blankets, camping chairs, jackets, smore sticks, beer bongs, bbq's, folding tables, bluetooth speakers, potato cannons........ If your equipped properly, you are just throwing groceries and booze in the thing and hitching up the trailer. Of course you gotta wash it and keep it full of fluids, but it would be a major PITA to boondock in the desert and have to load / unload and inventory all the shit that goes with it to do the rental RV thing.
 
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