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Luxury Vinyl Plank Flooring Question?

Ace in the Hole

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Problem is - when I called Oceanside to ask some questions they said it's not their product. The logo isn't the same as the Oceanside floorinig I can find online.
Seems fishy....

Anybody have any experience with LVT thats 12mm thick, Oceanside brand?

In Multifamily stuff my guys have laid around 500k sq feet of LVP in the last 5 years.....the wear layer is an important number...the thicker that is..the better it will do with scratch resistance etc. The thicker the main product the more "perfect" the subfloor must be otherwise you wind up with air pockets/broken seams, click sounds etc. The thinner the floor the more imperfections in the sub floor you will see over time reflected in the flooring. 12mm it THICK...is that including the built in pad? Wear layers for us were min spec at 20 mil, most of what we used was around 5mm.

Next is the brand thing....anyone can slap a label on stuff. In 2017 I figured out it was FAR cheaper to go direct to the manufacturer in China and buy by the container since we did large project. They will label/brand it however you want. So in reality the brand name doesn't mean shit, nor does the warranty. How its constructed makes a big difference, and the wear layer.

What are they charging you per sq ft for the product? not labor.

Are you measuring the 12mm from the board? or is that the spec they gave you...it looks like only the top half of that sample (starting at the black is the actual product.
 

WildHorses24

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Resurrecting this thread......

I never did get around to doing our home's floor last year, cause I did the entire river house instead!
Misguided priorities....

So i'm ready to pull the trigger on LVT, looking at a product that is 12mm thick with built-in padding. Its from a distributor called "flooring 101", but the brand is Oceanside.
Im thinking thicker is better, feels more substantial underfoot, less "tapping" sound, more resiliant to imperfections in subfloor, etc.

Problem is - when I called Oceanside to ask some questions they said it's not their product. The logo isn't the same as the Oceanside floorinig I can find online.
Seems fishy....

Anybody have any experience with LVT thats 12mm thick, Oceanside brand?

View attachment 1045025 View attachment 1045026 View attachment 1045027

Neighbors in HB just did their entire house in it. Really surprised how nice is looks, feels and sounds. No cheap “hollow click” you get from other floating floors, really sounds solid. I recently installed glue down engineered oak floors and they look and feel almost identical…. Almost. My dad had a flooring business for 40 yrs so I’m a little more old school. I’d say for the price you couldn’t go wrong and I’m an anti LVT guy unless it’s a rental or business!
 

Bigbore500r

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In Multifamily stuff my guys have laid around 500k sq feet of LVP in the last 5 years.....the wear layer is an important number...the thicker that is..the better it will do with scratch resistance etc. The thicker the main product the more "perfect" the subfloor must be otherwise you wind up with air pockets/broken seams, click sounds etc. The thinner the floor the more imperfections in the sub floor you will see over time reflected in the flooring. 12mm it THICK...is that including the built in pad? Wear layers for us were min spec at 20 mil, most of what we used was around 5mm.

Next is the brand thing....anyone can slap a label on stuff. In 2017 I figured out it was FAR cheaper to go direct to the manufacturer in China and buy by the container since we did large project. They will label/brand it however you want. So in reality the brand name doesn't mean shit, nor does the warranty. How its constructed makes a big difference, and the wear layer.

What are they charging you per sq ft for the product? not labor.

Are you measuring the 12mm from the board? or is that the spec they gave you...it looks like only the top half of that sample (starting at the black is the actual product.

The sample boards are laid up on a piece of MDF to hold it all together. The material is branded as12mm, appears to including the backing pad. Measures 1/2", maybe a 1/64" shy of that on the tape measure. 12mm is .472 so seems to be accurate. The finish is listed as 20 mil.

Price is higher than I want, at $4.50 sqft.

Going over a fairly flat concrete slab, but i do have glue residue that I have scraped down but there are mild remnants still evenly spread across the concrete. Nothing is getting those off but a diamond disk on a floor buffer, and I'd rather not if I dont have to!

I figured the thicker the better, but maybe in my case I should find a happy medium? Definately dont want hollow pockets that "tap" when you walk over them. I plan to fix any major stuff but im not looking to skim coat / float the entire floor to perfection
 

Bigbore500r

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Neighbors in HB just did their entire house in it. Really surprised how nice is looks, feels and sounds. No cheap “hollow click” you get from other floating floors, really sounds solid. I recently installed glue down engineered oak floors and they look and feel almost identical…. Almost. My dad had a flooring business for 40 yrs so I’m a little more old school. I’d say for the price you couldn’t go wrong and I’m an anti LVT guy unless it’s a rental or business!
Did they use this particular brand, or something else? What you describe is what im trying to achieve
 

Ace in the Hole

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The sample boards are laid up on a piece of MDF to hold it all together. The material is branded as12mm, appears to including the backing pad. Measures 1/2", maybe a 1/64" shy of that on the tape measure. 12mm is .472 so seems to be accurate. The finish is listed as 20 mil.

Price is higher than I want, at $4.50 sqft.

Going over a fairly flat concrete slab, but i do have glue residue that I have scraped down but there are mild remnants still evenly spread across the concrete. Nothing is getting those off but a diamond disk on a floor buffer, and I'd rather not if I dont have to!

I figured the thicker the better, but maybe in my case I should find a happy medium? Definately dont want hollow pockets that "tap" when you walk over them. I plan to fix any major stuff but im not looking to skim coat / float the entire floor to perfection

I figured...but wanted to ask. They are likely including the backer pad which makes sense. Did they provide a sound spec sheet on the backer... Some glue isn't going to matter...dips, ridges, and high spots will.

On the face of it, thicker sounds better but isn't always. See if you can get a breakdown of the thickness measurement. As far as product cost...im a little off current and I'm not in CA.. Thats higher than what would pay for it..see if they will negotiate.

Random but the LVP at Costco isn't a bad deal and its easy as shit to lay. The trans strips have to be ordered though and that's where they get you.
 

Mandelon

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Like painting, prep work is very important. The best quality plank will be shitty over a wavy substrate. Get a long level or straightedge and crawl all over the slab to make sure you fill low spots, and grind high spots. Floor leveler usually requires a primer coat. Having a vacuum attachment on a disk grinder makes it much easier to stay dustless.
 

badgas

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The one that we used in post #87 has a 30mm wear layer ?

I was tol that was a commercial type product. Time will tell. It has no MDF and is waterproof. I have some extra pieces I can bring back to so cal if you want to see it. Or check it out in Havasu ?
 

RogerThat99

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I have had mine done for about 9 months. No fading in the direct sun, nobody has slipped yet (knock on wood), and no scratches or any damage.

I am very happy with everything about it...except the dog. I get up early and he makes a ton of noise with his claws clicking on the floors. He gets very excited for his breakfast. Between his claws clicking and a 95 lb dog lumbering down the stairs, it is a lot of noise.

Sent Using Tapatalk
 

ONE-A-DAY

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Started our master tonight……
087837BB-298B-4CC3-8468-2E0E4D047D4F.jpeg
 

Mandelon

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That's a nice look. The micro beveled edges are key, in my opinion. The no bevel style looks cheap. This looks much more like real wood.
 

WildHorses24

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Did they use this particular brand, or something else? What you describe is what im trying to achieve

He found it online and remember him saying flooring 101 as well. I believe it was BelAir, Rocky Mountain WCP. When this stuff first came out they didn’t have boards longer than 4’, I like that they’re making more random sizes now. As stated before prep is king, longer boards mean more prep time and making sure all high and low spots are corrected. I missed a couple and you feel it every time you step on it.
IMG_6924.jpg
 
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ONE-A-DAY

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What brand / color is that?
Woodford Oak, Lowe’s, $55 a box, my math says 27 boxes, we have a pretty big bathroom, still cheaper than carpet and we won’t freak if the dog yacks on it. Back and knees are junk today, going to get knee pads before I resume. It’s a bitch to get started since walls are never square, once you get rolling it goes pretty quick, cuts easy with a jig saw. Doesn’t have that tinny hollow sound either.

1BA07A61-31E7-4F38-A3B2-D7BE8839753B.jpeg
 

Looking Glass

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Woodford Oak, Lowe’s, $55 a box, my math says 27 boxes, we have a pretty big bathroom, still cheaper than carpet and we won’t freak if the dog yacks on it. Back and knees are junk today, going to get knee pads before I resume. It’s a bitch to get started since walls are never square, once you get rolling it goes pretty quick, cuts easy with a jig saw. Doesn’t have that tinny hollow sound either.

View attachment 1045283


You doing the Labor yourself?:oops:
 

DaBank

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Has anyone used MSI vinyl plank with 12mil wear layer? Home Depot online today is having 25% off with free shipping. I been thinking about doing the floors at a rental.
 

DaBank

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What looks better straight or beveled edge vinyl plank?
 

wzuber

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What looks better straight or beveled edge vinyl plank?
personal preference typically. see pics. in above threads. I'm liking the looks of the beveled edge myself but can see a potential cleaning issue with that too. Form follows function kinda deal.
 

Gramps

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We just finished a large part of our house, about 1600 sq ft. We bought MSI with the 20 ml wear coat. We have had carpeting for years, the hard floor is taking some getting use to walking barefoot, my bad legs liked the soft carpet. This winter will be interesting when it get cold and snowy. At first I wanted beveled edges but thought living in the mountains, dirt roads, dirt driveway, no asphalt so dirt everywhere the bevels would "hide and hold " dirt.
20210817_183733.jpg
 

DaBank

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Has anyone used NuCore from Floor and Decor?
 

NicPaus

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I have been using Bel Air for a few years now. They are located not far from me in LA. Was just at the river and it held up to the last 2 months of heat with no AC on. Been installed almost 2 years now. They did just raise there prices again last week. Went up 60 cents in last year.

I have a customer that wants Lions flooring on next project. Trying to get a account there and Republic. They are about 15 minutes from each other and 30-40 minutes from me. Issue is need a retail location. My BIL Dad owns a local carpet store see if He will open a account. They both have some great selections.
 

Ace in the Hole

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Finally pulled the trigger on new floors. Long overdue. 😬. Pretty happy with the way it’s turning out. View attachment 1064057 View attachment 1064059
Looks great. There is a better tap tool than the one you are using...great way to smash your fingers. 🤣 Honestly my guys prefer to cut the scraps down the center and use them locked in to do the job.
 
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RogerThat99

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Has anyone used MSI vinyl plank with 12mil wear layer? Home Depot online today is having 25% off with free shipping. I been thinking about doing the floors at a rental.
I ended up going with an MSI product. I have had it down for almost a year, and been very happy with it. I posted an initial review of it further up in this thread.

I liked the look of the beveled edge, but for cleaning purposes and dog hair, I went with non beveled edge.
 
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In Multifamily stuff my guys have laid around 500k sq feet of LVP in the last 5 years.....the wear layer is an important number...the thicker that is..the better it will do with scratch resistance etc. The thicker the main product the more "perfect" the subfloor must be otherwise you wind up with air pockets/broken seams, click sounds etc. The thinner the floor the more imperfections in the sub floor you will see over time reflected in the flooring. 12mm it THICK...is that including the built in pad? Wear layers for us were min spec at 20 mil, most of what we used was around 5mm.

Next is the brand thing....anyone can slap a label on stuff. In 2017 I figured out it was FAR cheaper to go direct to the manufacturer in China and buy by the container since we did large project. They will label/brand it however you want. So in reality the brand name doesn't mean shit, nor does the warranty. How its constructed makes a big difference, and the wear layer.

What are they charging you per sq ft for the product? not labor.

Are you measuring the 12mm from the board vinyl plank flooring atlanta? or is that the spec they gave you...it looks like only the top half of that sample (starting at the black is the actual product.
3 days in, and I can’t get the 2nd row to stay on the 1st. I’ve broken almost every board I’ve touched (about $250 worth of product). I’m ready to quit, since I can’t even start. Anyone have experience with this crap
 

NicPaus

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3 days in, and I can’t get the 2nd row to stay on the 1st. I’ve broken almost every board I’ve touched (about $250 worth of product). I’m ready to quit, since I can’t even start. Anyone have experience with this crap
Post some pics of what you are working with? What brand? Thickness?
 

DarkHorseRacing

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3 days in, and I can’t get the 2nd row to stay on the 1st. I’ve broken almost every board I’ve touched (about $250 worth of product). I’m ready to quit, since I can’t even start. Anyone have experience with this crap
Is this the snap lock type LVP? So you set the first row and then for the second row you align the correct edges and drop in the second row at a slight angle then lock it down by whacking it with a soft mallet.

I did a laundry room and then a bathroom with LVP. The worst part was cutting it around stuff. I tried the paper cutter looking thing and that sucked so I switched to a circular saw or a jig saw and treated it like wood which worked a lot better. However I dulled the crap out of my wood blades after the project was done. Maybe using a blade for metal would last longer?

It looks good once done but I absolutely hated the cutting.

I did screw up almost a box of stuff before I got the hang of it.
 

Ace in the Hole

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Funny seeing this thread resurrected... laid around 450 sq feet today and will finish tomorrow on one of my flips. My biggest gripe is it dries out your hands hardcore...
 

HNL2LHC

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Funny seeing this thread resurrected... laid around 450 sq feet today and will finish tomorrow on one of my flips. My biggest gripe is it dries out your hands hardcore...
Good to hear that you made the progress you wanted.
 

Justfishing

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3 days in, and I can’t get the 2nd row to stay on the 1st. I’ve broken almost every board I’ve touched (about $250 worth of product). I’m ready to quit, since I can’t even start. Anyone have experience with this crap
Did you ever figure out the problem.
 

Justfishing

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I'm not sure what his was, but from personal experience.... ends are the hard part...side to side is the easy connection.
I know the flatness of the floor is important. The lvp has tight tolerances to lock together. Put it on a way floor and it stresses the locking system.

I recently did a bedroom with smart core or whatever its called from lowes. Floor was dead flat. Put the long side in at a 45° angle slide it over till it hit short side laid it flat. Took a rubber mallet and wacked the short joint from inside to out. You could see and hear it click in to place. Moved to next piece.

Used a knife to score and snap. An oscillating tool for cutting. Learn to shave the lock so you can lay a piece in that cant be snapped in. Used clear gorilla glue on the shaved tongue. The clear doesnt foam.
 

NicPaus

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Whatever happened to real hardwood floors?
There available but $$$. I am working on a bid for a whole house remodel in Rolling Hills. Trying to get them to use Engineered wood instead of vinyl. Very nice neighborhood. Vinyl starts at $13,500, engineered wood starts at $24,000. Solid wood be around $30K starting.

House they just bought and gutted. Before getting bids. See what there budget allows. Costs are much higher than they anticipated.
 

spectra3279

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You would be "floored" to know the amount of historic homes on Oahu near diamond head that have absolutely beautiful real hardwood floors that are covered with LVP....

That is down right despicable and blasphemous
 
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