Mercury Amarm Question

[steven vaccaro]

I'm getting an alarm but the display doesn't allow me to read the entire message. Does anyone know how to see the rest without having to bring it to a dealer?
I've attached a picture.

 

[Lavey 29]

I would scan the engine with a current scan tool. To me that alarm is VOLTAGE. Also it would be great if you tell what app - meaning what make - model and year and engine serial number you have here - Is this a Mercruiser ? Or a mercury outboard ? Is this a Volvo penta with Econtrols or this an Ilmor with econtrols or ? No to sound like a jerk but we have to know what you have here ? Other wise its throwing darts at a huge dart board.

 

[steven vaccaro]

I would scan the engine with a current scan tool. To me that alarm is VOLTAGE. Also it would be great if you tell what app - meaning what make - model and year and engine serial number you have here - Is this a Mercruiser ? Or a mercury outboard ? Is this a Volvo penta with Econtrols or this an Ilmor with econtrols or ? No to sound like a jerk but we have to know what you have here ? Other wise its throwing darts at a huge dart board.

 

[steven vaccaro]

Thanks and sorry for the lack of info.

I should have worded my question better.
Im referring to the top alarm. I fixed the other low voltage alarms with a battery charger. But the top one is different.

I was getting the alarm when going from about half to full throttle. The simrad display is showing the alarm. And by the looks of it, there are 3 "..." at the end of he alarm text. By the looks of it, you can somehow read more info or open up the alarm to get the full detail. But I couldnt figure it out.

I have a 2017 mercury 565hp with a simard using vessleview.

 

[Lavey 29]

Guardian mode aka limp mode aka power reduction mode and its Voltage

you need a current scan tool plus know how to use it or take it in to a Merc racing cert shop that uses the G3 scan tool. Do so before you wreck your pcm 555.

Solid info here --- the scan tool is only as good as the person using it. Most people including some boat mechanics think just because there is NO fault codes displayed when scanning marine engine --- that all is ok for the fuel injection management sides of things. THIS IS SO FAR FROM THE TRUTH.

 

[steven vaccaro]

Guardian mode aka limp mode aka power reduction mode and its Voltage

you need a current scan tool plus know how to use it or take it in to a Merc racing cert shop that uses the G3 scan tool. Do so before you wreck your pcm 555.

Solid info here --- the scan tool is only as good as the person using it. Most people including some boat mechanics think just because there is NO fault codes displayed when scanning marine engine --- that all is ok for the fuel injection management sides of things. THIS IS SO FAR FROM THE TRUTH.

Thanks for the info.

 

[HydroSkreamin]

Usually you can touch the screen just for that alarm and it will give you more details.

If for some reason you started it with the charger connected, and it saw more than 16 VDC, it would be high voltage. If it’s below 11.5 VDC, it’ll show low voltage.

If you had just charged the battery enough to start it and were just idling, the alternator is probably not going to keep up with engine/boat electrical load AND have enough to charge the battery until the engine is over 1000-1200 RPMs. The output curve of the alternator is steep vs RPM.

If you do have your dealer scan it, all of the parameters for each alarm are in Freeze Frame Data, and they’ll be able to tell if you were running or not, what gear you were in, and where you had the throttle lever, as well as TPS, oil temp& pressure, spark, MAP, RPM, etc.

Hope this helps.

 

[steven vaccaro]

Usually you can touch the screen just for that alarm and it will give you more details.

If for some reason you started it with the charger connected, and it saw more than 16 VDC, it would be high voltage. If it’s below 11.5 VDC, it’ll show low voltage.

If you had just charged the battery enough to start it and were just idling, the alternator is probably not going to keep up with engine/boat electrical load AND have enough to charge the battery until the engine is over 1000-1200 RPMs. The output curve of the alternator is steep vs RPM.

If you do have your dealer scan it, all of the parameters for each alarm are in Freeze Frame Data, and they’ll be able to tell if you were running or not, what gear you were in, and where you had the throttle lever, as well as TPS, oil temp& pressure, spark, MAP, RPM, etc.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for the help!