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More issues with this fn rhino..

Rondog4405

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Realizing now that i shouldv just ponied up and boughy LOF's rhino! Well i just replaced a cv boot on the one i did buy and noticed the rear A-arm lower bolt (connects to the hub knuckle i believe it is) was loose . i tried tightening it..only to find out the bolt is broken. I checked the other side and that bolt is broken as well. So im pretty much dead in the water now.... Its a square tube mid travel . Heres a pic of the bolts.. Anyone have any idea where i can find some ..since i have no clue what brand the mid travel arms are. ?
 

Dalton

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just get some allthread, jk. what looks like happened is the shank length (unthreaded portion) is incorrect, figure out the shank length you need and bring them to a hardware/bolt store.
 

Waffles

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View attachment 697825 View attachment 697826 Realizing now that i shouldv just ponied up and boughy LOF's rhino! Well i just replaced a cv boot on the one i did buy and noticed the rear A-arm lower bolt (connects to the hub knuckle i believe it is) was loose . i tried tightening it..only to find out the bolt is broken. I checked the other side and that bolt is broken as well. So im pretty much dead in the water now.... Its a square tube mid travel . Heres a pic of the bolts.. Anyone have any idea where i can find some ..since i have no clue what brand the mid travel arms are. ?
McFadden Dale!
Not sure where aftermarket companies get their hardware but McFadden should have it. I wonder if you could go back to the stock flange bolts partzilla shows.....

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Shortdeck

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Yep, Allens Fasteners. Buy what you need in ARP.


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02HoWaRd26

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Oh also get yourself a 12pt nut instead of 6pt it makes it way way easier to access, just be sure to use a lock washer on it.
 

02HoWaRd26

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If yours is 6” i have one you can have.
I’ll ship it free or you can drive here and also get a K&N cvt filter some plastic screws for the body panels a bad ass bumper with integrated skid plate that goes under front diff some steering parts and god knows I’ll find more.
 

Rondog4405

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McFadden Dale!
Not sure where aftermarket companies get their hardware but McFadden should have it. I wonder if you could go back to the stock flange bolts partzilla shows.....

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Never even heard of that shop. Hell yeah its right in my backyard.. Gonna give them a try tomorrow
Thanks:D
 

Rondog4405

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If yours is 6” i have one you can have.
I’ll ship it free or you can drive here and also get a K&N cvt filter some plastic screws for the body panels a bad ass bumper with integrated skid plate that goes under front diff some steering parts and god knows I’ll find more.
The travel.kit?. Its a mid. Where are you at. Id definitely be interested in your rhino parts!:D
 

02HoWaRd26

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Ft. Mohave, and i was talking about the bolt length, then saw you posted pics right next to a tape measure so yea mine looks to be about an inch to long. Also as FYI i do believe most all those bolts are grade 10.9
 

Rondog4405

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Paid a visit to mcfadden dale.. (Thanks waffles). Holy crap that place is cool! They have everything! So anyways.. They had the bolts. Slapped them in and took it for a spin. I solved absolutely nothing! Same clanking noise and the new cv boot was sliced and leaking grease. I noticed ..as i was staring at the thing in disgust that the bad axle/cv side sags way lower than the other side and pretty much rubs the a-arm. So thats a bad cv joint im guessing right? So now i wanna ditch the whole gorilla axle and buy a new complete axle with cv's and boots. Point me in the right direction guys.. Keep in mind its a mid travel.. :oops:
 

Done-it-again

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Talk to summer bros axles. Gorilla axles had propblem from time to time. If you know what a-arm kit you have they might already know the length that is needed.

Can you post a pick of the a-arms.
 

Waffles

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Paid a visit to mcfadden dale.. (Thanks waffles). Holy crap that place is cool! They have everything! So anyways.. They had the bolts. Slapped them in and took it for a spin. I solved absolutely nothing! Same clanking noise and the new cv boot was sliced and leaking grease. I noticed ..as i was staring at the thing in disgust that the bad axle/cv side sags way lower than the other side and pretty much rubs the a-arm. So thats a bad cv joint im guessing right? So now i wanna ditch the whole gorilla axle and buy a new complete axle with cv's and boots. Point me in the right direction guys.. Keep in mind its a mid travel.. :oops:
Flip the knuckle on the "sagging" side. It should fix your a-arm rubbing issues.

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Rondog4405

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Talk to summer bros axles. Gorilla axles had propblem from time to time. If you know what a-arm kit you have they might already know the length that is needed.

Can you post a pick of the a-arms.
Heres a pic of them.
20181104_184024.jpg
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Any luck getting this thing fixed? And I agree, the hub is probably backwards on the low side. I made that mistake when I was rebuilding my rear hubs and scratched my head for a couple mins before I realized it was on upside down.

You'll probably get it all dialed in soon. I have not sold mine yet, you could have put 100 trouble free miles on it already :)
 
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Rondog4405

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Any luck getting this thing fixed? And I agree, the hub is probably backwards on the low side. I made that mistake when I was rebuilding my rear hubs and scratched my head for a couple mins before I realized it was on upside down.

You'll probably get it all dialed in soon. I have not sold mine yet, you could have put 100 trouble free miles on it already :)
Im ready to dump it over a cliff.. Lol. Ok..im not the most mechanically inclined on these things. What do u guys mean turn the hub over?? I never took it fully off. I unbolted the lower arm and took it all apart. And still have the loud clanking in reverse and turning. The new boot i put on ..im guessing got sliced due to rubbing on the a arm.? I called summers bros today about buying a complete new axle with new cv's. $425.00 each. Yikes! Im so sick of messing with this fn axle and cv boots! Gotta be a bad cv joint right?? You have no idea how much iam kicking myself in the ass for not grabbing yours! :mad::D
 

LargeOrangeFont

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Im ready to dump it over a cliff.. Lol. Ok..im not the most mechanically inclined on these things. What do u guys mean turn the hub over?? I never took it fully off. I unbolted the lower arm and took it all apart. And still have the loud clanking in reverse and turning. The new boot i put on ..im guessing got sliced due to rubbing on the a arm.? I called summers bros today about buying a complete new axle with new cv's. $425.00 each. Yikes! Im so sick of messing with this fn axle and cv boots! Gotta be a bad cv joint right?? You have no idea how much iam kicking myself in the ass for not grabbing yours! :mad::D
Measure the height of the outdrive (the part that goes into the wheel bearings) on the outer axle in relation to the arm. If one side is low, that rear upright could be bolted on upside down.
 

Done-it-again

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You should also take off the spindle to see if any of the spindle arms are bent. It was an issue when suspension companies were adding wheel base to the kits. Most
+6 kits were running +2 in the front, putting more load on the spindle and in turn they were being bent.
 

LargeOrangeFont

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If you have a bent spindle you have a couple options. There is a guy in Seal Beach (Josh) that straightens and gussets OEM spindles. That is a great option if your Long travel kit uses OE spindles and ball joints.

The stock spindles can bend easily, especially if you have low offset wheels and/or spacers.
 
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