WELCOME TO RIVER DAVES PLACE

My 1969 Camaro.

85RiverRAT

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Highlights of the past 22 years of ownership, to get to, the current project that I took on.

Purchased in 2000 at The Great Labor Day Cruise. I was 15 1/2, barely had my permit. Super spoiled I know.
Originally a Red/Red 327-3spd. Bone Stock.
It was hit in the late 90's. The owners repaired/restored it to the current 97' Chevy S-10 Bahama Blue, w/ Black interior.
85-86' Caprice bone-yard motor backed to a TH-350.
Some odd Dodge ignition system.

Build sheet as Purchased:
350ci, TH-350, 3.24 8.2 rear.
Cut front coils
Mono-leaf rear
Centerline Wheels
No AC
OLD stereo
front disks/rear drums
no-name dual exhaust

Mods out of the gate: I was driving this to high-school, and it needed some reliability updates.
Swapped Long-Tube headers for mid-length, they were draggin' from the cut coils.
Flowmaster American Thunder exhaust
Shoulder Belts
Vintage Air A/C
I sold my mini-bike and bought the Chrome Rally Wheels and BFG's.
SS Leaf Springs
Eibach dropped front coils.
Brake rebuild front and rear.
Edelbrock 600CFM carb
Pertronix Distributor
New Alternator
New Fuel Tank
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85RiverRAT

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Engine Swap #1

2002.

Everything was running decent for a while but the engine started drinking oil and the transmission was slippin'. We had no history on the engine or transmission, so it was easier to just get rid of both.

Over Christmas Break we pulled the engine and trans and dropped in a new crate engine and TH-350.
Knowing this was going to happen, I was searching the catalogues for H.O. 350's, ZZ4, 383's, ZZ-383, etc. Dreaming of big power. No what we ended up with, but not complaining it was an awesome project!!

New Power:
GM Goodwrench 290HP 350
TCI Streetfighter TH-350
TCI Saturday Night Special torque converter
Chrome dress up kit.
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85RiverRAT

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Rear End Build 2011:

The only time I was grounded from driving my Camaro, was doing a burn out. Never had a speeding ticket, red light, nothing. I thought it was bad ass, but got ratted out. It started because I participated in a video with my youth group at church. They were making a promotional video, based loosely on the VIN Diesel XXX film. My pastor was in full make up, looking like VIN, driving my Camaro up and down PCH. We got back to the parking lot and they wanted to do a smokey burn out. I attempted a burn out, by revving then engine in neutral and slamming into drive. LOL. Power braking was not a known concept. They had to edit in the tire smoke, because the video was just the car skidding away. LOL. I shared this with my dad, and he explains that I will wreck the transmission, and that power braking is the proper way to burn out. DOH. Don't give the kid the instructions.

I did two huge one-wheel wonders after that, one in front of my buddies house, with his dad cheering me on. Then a second in front of my house. I cleaned the rubber off the car each time, thinking I was in the clear. Buddy rats me out, I lost the car for two weeks, and had to have my mom drop me at school. LAME.

I knew I wanted a Posi, and to correct the gearing for future up grades. I wanted away with the high-way gears, and get a hotter set put in.
2011 Out of college, I tore the rear end out and did a full build myself.

Literally did it 100%. Pinion bearing pre-load, back lash, gear marking compound, etc. I made my own pinion wrench to set the pre-load.

New Rear End:
Kept the 8.2 housing.
3.55:1 Richmond Gear
Eaton Posi LSD 3-Series Carrier
New bearings, races, shims, seals
Stripped, Primer, Paint.
Summit Racing Aluminum cover.
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85RiverRAT

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1969 CAMARO BUILD SHEET @2012:

ENGINE

- Base GM Goodwrench 350
290 HP 4,300 RPM
350 ft/lbs 3,200 RPM
8.5:1 Compression
Stock cast iron crank
4 bolt mains
LT/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast aluminum pistons
Stock cast iron 76cc heads
LM-1 Hydraulic Flat Tappet cam
Advertised duration (260/268)
Duration@ .50 valve lift (194/202)
Valve lift .383/ .401
112 degrees lobe separation
34 deg total timing BTDC
4 quart oil pan
Polished Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
600 CFM Edelbrock carb w/ electric choke
Pertronix distributor
Chrome coil
K&N air filter
Summit high flow water pump

CHASSIS

TCI Saturday Night Special torque converter.
TCI Streetfighter TH-350
GM 8.2 10 Bolt Axle
Richmond Gear 3.55:1 Ring and Pinion
Eaton Posi LSD 3-Series Carrier.
2 ½ inch Flowmaster exhaust w/ 40 series Delta flow mufflers
Dynamax headers
Eibach Prokit 1 ½ inch lowered front coil spring
Stock SS style rear leaf springs

OTHER

Vintage Air AC
Polished Alternator
Chrome Rally wheels w/ chrome derby caps
1997 Chevy S-10 Metallic Blue
Cowl induction hood
Trunk lid spoiler
1971 Camaro side mirrors
Summit 7 color Tach
Auto Gage accessory pack
Pioneer stereo and speakers
Formuling steering wheel
 

wash11

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Such an awesome thread! That's been my dream car since I was 12 years old. More! More! More!
 

85RiverRAT

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Engine Swap #2:~2017ish.

Everything was peachy for years. Start, stop, run, etc. I got a bug up my butt and decided to upgrade. The 290HP as an older adult was rather anemic and I wanted more.
I put together a build plan, and pulled the motor again!

The first time we were able to rent an engine hoist from Mission Viejo equipment rentals. When I went back, they were having a fire sale, and going out of business. Instead of renting a hoist they sold it to me for $40.00. The engine stand was from Summit Racing. We ended up flipping the hoist, with a new paint job and I think Craig listed it for a small profit.

Plan was:
- Top End Kit
- New front suspension bushings, ball joints, sway-bar.

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85RiverRAT

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The engine was torn down to the long block and built back up. I've always been inspired by the Chip FOOSE "jewelry box" effect when opening the hood, but not the super flashy SEMA show style. I like the more raw hot rod look, the aluminum is all raw, black accessories were I could, and the block is painted in cast aluminum. Has a Circle Track, raw muscle vibe to it.

The top-end kit was an Edelbrock Performer RPM.
- Rollin' Thunder Hydraulic Roller Cam
- Double Row Timing Chain
- Roller Lifters
- New push rods
- 1.6 roller rockers
- E-Tec-170 Heads
- Performer RPM Air-Gap manifold
- 800CFM Thunder Series AVS carb
- ARP fasteners through out.
- Powermaster alternator
- Electric Fan
- TCI Breakaway Torque Converter 2,500 RPM Stall.
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85RiverRAT

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Suspension:

The ball joints were replaced a long time ago but never solved the alignment. The tires were always kicked out at the top, and had really horrible toe wear. Long story short all the bushings were shot. While the engine was out, we tore out the suspension. Pressed all the bushings out, stripped, painted and rebuilt everything. The bushings are new Urethane from energy suspension, and a CPP sway bar.

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85RiverRAT

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I finished putting the car back together, and it fired and ran great. So happy that it did not grenade on me. But in tuning, ended up with several issues. Once tuned, it has been bad ass. The CHOP, the improved handling, the extra power has been just a dream come true.

- Wrong flywheel was used with the new torque converter, I was busting the nose of the starter in half, because the spur gear was hitting the tabs of the converter, sticking up between the flywheel teeth, I thought I had clearance. Had to have the transmission dropped and a new flywheel and starter installed.
- The distributor ended up 180deg out, and had to be troubleshooted to get TDC on the compression stroke sorted.
- Created electrical gremlins that lead to the next project.
- While it would fire and run, the electrical issues have killed the reliability of the car. I could only cold start of the battery, but have to use a jumper anytime after for a hot start.
- Blew out one of my mufflers. It back fired hard a few times, especially when the distributor was out, I busted a baffle in one of the mufflers, so that needs to be replaced now. It rattles like an old jalopy at times.

I was able to chassis dyno the car (Super COOL), and get it to an alignment shop. The engine kit is rated 435 HP, and 435ftlbs at the crank on a 350ci engine. The RWHP was not supporting that kind of crankshaft HP/TQ, but I think it is all there. The tech, thought that 3rd gear was slipping, and the tires were not holding.

Max power was 319.70hp Max torque was 310.42 ftlb

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85RiverRAT

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CURRENT PROJECT 2022:

Since upgrading the engine, there have been electrical gremlins that have gone unaddressed since 2017. It has made driving the car a pain in the ass. I would get stuck all the time, needing to jump the battery to get the starter to kick. So I have been relegated to cold start in the garage, go for a run, but return to the garage. I couldn't stop for gas, lunch, a cold drink, or drive it into the office on Fridays. SUCKS. If I backed it out to work in the garage I would need to jump it to move it back in. Really annoying. I've been filling the gas tank a few gallons at a time with a jerry can.

In all of these projects over the years the electrical has just been hacked over and over, alarm kit, electric fan, speakers, etc. just jumped and spliced all over. Light were burning up, charging was inconsistent, starting was bad. Again, once the engine fired, it runs like scalded dog. I love it.

Christmas 2021 when my son was born, I asked for a Painless Performance Wire harness. I was going to rewire the whole car. LOL.

Of course, I didn't get started until June of this year, with a new born in the house.
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85RiverRAT

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Everything has since been systematically taken out. ALL of it, headlights to tail lights. Photos do not do any justice.
Everything is SHARP, the cuts have been endless, I probably have tetanus right now from the rust.
Main times, I have wondered if this was the right move. I think I found a faulty batter cable while taking things apart, which that alone may have cured the starting issues. I convinced myself that rest of the system still had enough other issues to continue.
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85RiverRAT

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At the end of 2022:

I have everything back in the car with exception to the truck section. The whole engine side is all wired up, headlight, signals, engine. The interior is 100% wired. I've tried to make this as sanitary as possible cleaning things up along the way. While it was apart I popped for new KICKER speakers front and rear.

This kit, is "painless" in the sense that all the engineering is done. Each wire is printed with the circuit name. Everything is color coded and loomed. Most of the ends are already terminated. The pain part is working in the confined spaces in these old cars, and all the sharp edges. I've spent a good deal of money buying hard to find terminals where either I messed up or the kit didn't have what I needed, otherwise it has been a complete kit.

The original fuse block I think was 18 circuits, this new one has modern blade fuses and a dedicated 23 circuits. So I have dedicated 12v power for upgrades, fuel pump, pre-amp out, power locks, power windows, electric fan, etc.

Once we are clear of the holidays, I need to wrap this up. All the trunk section, replace all the various bulbs, test everything, and finish installing the interior. It has been a spell since some maintenance work too, so I plan to do all the fluids, and make sure everything is road worthy. I haven't fired the car since JUNE, so I am dieing to see if this all worked as planned and the reliability is restored to the car.
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85RiverRAT

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Build as she sits right now.

ENGINE

- Edelbrock Performer RPM E-Tec 350ci
435 HP 4,300 RPM
435 ft/lbs 3,200 RPM
9.5:1 Compression
Stock cast iron crank
4 bolt mains
LT/LT4 powdered metal connecting rods
Cast aluminum pistons
Performer RPM E-Tec 170 heads
1.940” Intake​
1.550” Exhaust​
1.6 Aluminum Roller Rockers
Trick Flow Hydraulic Lifters and Lash Adjusters
Chromoly Pushrods
Edelbrock Rollin’ Thunder Hydraulic Roller Cam
Advertised duration (296/300)​
Duration@ .50 valve lift (234/238)​
Valve lift .549/ .548​
112 degrees lobe separation​
34 deg total timing BTDC
Double Roller timing chain
4 quart oil pan
Edelbrock Performer RMP Air-Gap Intake manifold
800 CFM Edelbrock Thunder Series AVS carb w/ electric choke
Pertronix distributor
MSD Blaster 2 Coil
K&N air filter
Summit high flow water pump
Derale Performance Electric Fan

CHASSIS

TCI Breakaway torque converter 2500 RPM STALL.
TCI Streetfighter TH-350
GM 8.2 10 Bolt Axle
Richmond Gear 3.55:1 Ring and Pinion
Eaton Posi LSD 3-Series Carrier.
2 ½ inch Flowmaster exhaust w/ 40 series Delta flow mufflers
Dynamax headers
Eibach Prokit 1 ½ inch lowered front coil spring
Stock SS style rear leaf springs
CPP Front Sway Bar
Energy Suspension Urethane bushings
New front steering, Ball joints.
Painless Performance wire harness (Pending LOL)

OTHER

Vintage Air AC
Chrome PowerMaster Alternator 150amp
Chrome Rally wheels w/ chrome derby caps
1997 Chevy S-10 Metallic Blue
Cowl induction hood
Trunk lid spoiler
1971 Camaro side mirrors
Summit 7 color Tach
Auto Gage accessory pack
Kicker speakers (need a new head unit still)
Formuling steering wheel
 
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DLC

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Very nice build!

thank you for bringing us along!! Very cool build and you’ve had it since HS - sweetness!

I would love to have a nice project like that!
 

SBMech

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DUDE! Beautiful Camaro man, thanks for posting up it's story!

IMO now is a perfect time to install the Tic-Tac-Toc instrument panel since you have it out already! 140mph speedo, the clock in the center and an 8k tach.....

It will totally clean it up and make it look legit IMO! Unless you like the aftermarket tach in the center, then all you bro!
 

85RiverRAT

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DUDE! Beautiful Camaro man, thanks for posting up it's story!

IMO now is a perfect time to install the Tic-Tac-Toc instrument panel since you have it out already! 140mph speedo, the clock in the center and an 8k tach.....

It will totally clean it up and make it look legit IMO! Unless you like the aftermarket tach in the center, then all you bro!
Thank you!

Yea, I can't decide on the direction for the dash. So many directions to go. Right now it is about driving the car reliably again. The hose-clamp mounted tach was never a favorite. All the gauges are mis-matched right now too. I found a set of licensed Chevrolet Autometer gauges that would be a good interim update. The tach, and accessory pod would all match.

I've been jonesing for updated wheels and tires. Torque Thurst II's and some lo-pro tires, 17's or 18's staggered fitment. I think I still want to do that first and then work on more interior updates.
 

69hondo

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CURRENT PROJECT 2022:

Since upgrading the engine, there have been electrical gremlins that have gone unaddressed since 2017. It has made driving the car a pain in the ass. I would get stuck all the time, needing to jump the battery to get the starter to kick. So I have been relegated to cold start in the garage, go for a run, but return to the garage. I couldn't stop for gas, lunch, a cold drink, or drive it into the office on Fridays. SUCKS. If I backed it out to work in the garage I would need to jump it to move it back in. Really annoying. I've been filling the gas tank a few gallons at a time with a jerry can.

In all of these projects over the years the electrical has just been hacked over and over, alarm kit, electric fan, speakers, etc. just jumped and spliced all over. Light were burning up, charging was inconsistent, starting was bad. Again, once the engine fired, it runs like scalded dog. I love it.

Christmas 2021 when my son was born, I asked for a Painless Performance Wire harness. I was going to rewire the whole car. LOL.

Of course, I didn't get started until June of this year, with a new born in the house.
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LOL. my 65 chevelle does the exact same thing. I totally know what you were going through. Its so frustrating. Fire it go for a ride but dont shut it off or it wont crank. Battery has to be at complete 100% or charger/jumper hooked up to crank. I have the same wire harness kit and need to do the same thing.
 

stevesdcb

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And if you really just get to the point of complete frustration…..I’m in the market for a 1st or 2nd generation Camaro.
 

85RiverRAT

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February Update:

Finally got Christmas decorations put away, caught up with friends after the holidays, business trip to MN, etc. and carved out some garage time.

The trunk is done! Really the last major section of the harness.

This project really makes you appreciate the wiring done on our boats. DCB is over the top, but even on a 28year old Hallett 240, under the helm, everything is super-sano and zip tied really nice, in straight lines, bundled together. Granted the basic boat is less complicated then a car, but cosmetically, there is a lot of patience/skill involved.

This came together pretty good, IMO, but it ain't a DCB job.

The trunk splices I left long, because you have to reuse the the original tail light bulb sockets. I made my cuts on the old tails as long as could, incase I f'd something up, and I wanted/needed length to make a solid butt splice. The loops are a bit longer then the original factory harness, but I know the connections are good. Trying to judge were the butt splice should land, either, hidden in the main loom, or after the branch was a head scratcher. The remnant old tails really weren't long enough to hide the splice in the main loom, so the splices ended up in the branches. The bend in wire to t-out from the main loom would have landed right at the splice.

I thought the trunk would be more comfortable to work on, but no position is easy, you are leaning over the tailgate, on the balls of your feet, working under the light buckets. FUCK'd up my back, wasn't any easier than any other part of the car.

I've now also, completed an inventory of all the light bulbs and reordered fresh bulbs for 95% of the car. Due to be delivered this weekend. Marker lights, turn signals, tail lights, console, courtesy lights, idiot/dash lights, reverse, and brake. etc.

The final push is the terminating the Battery cables and general maintenance.
- oil change
- coolant flush
- tires
- check all nuts and bolts that were removed worked on
- test the system
- check the starter alignment. I think, part of my original issues could also be related to starter alignment. Going to drop the bell housing cover to take a look while doing the oil. The solenoid would kick, and you can hear the Bendix Gear banging the flex plate but, then nothing else, until it caught a tooth and spun the engine over.
- fire the engine, first time since JUNE 22'

What is upsetting and sad, is trying to find service parts at local auto parts stores. I am kind of in shock that basic things are not on the shelves any more.
my AUTO ZONE didn't have 350 Chevy oil filters, nearest availability was Fullerton and INDIO. They had a basic STP, but I want a little better for this engine. I have to try Orielly's or go online now. All the PepBoys in my area have closed their retail sections so you can't shop there any more. Same for batteries, we are partial to Interstate, but it has been a wild goose chase. Firestone service centers use to carry them, but they have DieHard now. I finally found one that I will pick up tomorrow. It is the crushing of car culture at the consumer level, not good!!!

Next update should be the car back out on the road! 🤞:cool:

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Sharp Shooter

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- check the starter alignment. I think, part of my original issues could also be related to starter alignment. Going to drop the bell housing cover to take a look while doing the oil. The solenoid would kick, and you can hear the Bendix Gear banging the flex plate but, then nothing else, until it caught a tooth and spun the engine over.
- fire the engine, first time since JUNE 22'

What is upsetting and sad, is trying to find service parts at local auto parts stores. I am kind of in shock that basic things are not on the shelves any more.
my AUTO ZONE didn't have 350 Chevy oil filters, nearest availability was Fullerton and INDIO. They had a basic STP, but I want a little better for this engine. I have to try Orielly's or go online now. All the PepBoys in my area have closed their retail sections so you can't shop there any more. Same for batteries, we are partial to Interstate, but it has been a wild goose chase. Firestone service centers use to carry them, but they have DieHard now. I finally found one that I will pick up tomorrow. It is the crushing of car culture at the consumer level, not good!!!

Next update should be the car back out on the road! 🤞:cool:

Great job so far on the car! It's turning out beautiful!

You likely know this, but in case you do not- starter alignment is achieved by utilizing the correct "shouldered" starter bolts and sometimes you'll need shims for gear to flexplate distance. Forget about Autozone. Practically everything you'll ever need can be delivered to your doorstep. NAPA sells Wix Racing filters which are good or you have Wix delivered delivered from many other sources. Baldwin makes a great oil filter too.

Last time I went to buy a battery for my 68 Chevelle (group 24) I drove down to the Power shop on Mission in Ontario (I have no clue where you are) . They sold me a group 24 with 850 cranking amps $125 with warranty. They do a lot of classic car and low rider stuff.

Rock Auto is a good source for basic things, and they give options on quality levels.
Keep up the good work!

This is my new battery with an AC Delco battery topper available on ebay.

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85RiverRAT

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Great job so far on the car! It's turning out beautiful!

You likely know this, but in case you do not- starter alignment is achieved by utilizing the correct "shouldered" starter bolts and sometimes you'll need shims for gear to flexplate distance. Forget about Autozone. Practically everything you'll ever need can be delivered to your doorstep. NAPA sells Wix Racing filters which are good or you have Wix delivered delivered from many other sources. Baldwin makes a great oil filter too.

Last time I went to buy a battery for my 68 Chevelle (group 24) I drove down to the Power shop on Mission in Ontario (I have no clue where you are) . They sold me a group 24 with 850 cranking amps $125 with warranty. They do a lot of classic car and low rider stuff.

Rock Auto is a good source for basic things, and they give options on quality levels.
Keep up the good work!

This is my new battery with an AC Delco battery topper available on ebay.

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Thank you for the compliments.

That topper is cool!

I pulled the inspection plate last weekend. The starter is shimmed, and the gap between armature shaft and flex plate is correct. Gear pattern wear looks good too. I didn't find anything that would suggest it being out alignment, so starter suspicion is now gone.

Agree RockAuto is a go-to, Summit Racing is my favorite. I just don't like eating the shipping costs if I can avoid it.

The RV repair shop came through on my new Interstate battery after a week. I've moved on to finally laying out the battery cables. Making some final aesthetic decisions and then I can crimp the lugs on.
 

85RiverRAT

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I deleted my last two posts from March of this year, they were going into far left field. Time to reel this thread back in.

New post, computer issues mended. Lets GO!

Success! Back on the road!

March 11th and 12th:


I used a trickle charger set to low amps, and tested all the systems. Pretty ingenious by Painless Performance, to test the cars systems with a charger vs. hooking straight to the battery. The charger provides circuit protection incase anything blows vs. testing directly with 12v from the battery. I had my dad with me, for an extra set of eyes. Even at 37, having DAD with you for back up is special. Everything started to turn on and come back to life. AMAZING. Lights, signals, gauges etc. Tried the lights=good. Tried signals=good. Tried the starter=good. Tried the fan=good.

ONLY TWO ISSUES out of everything that could have been fucked up, was 1) one dash idiot light that I grounded on both sides of the bulb. 2) the pin out for the gas gauge was switched (left-right confusion looking at the schematics). Everything else was showing signs of working.

March 12th, connected the battery for good, and hit the key. Freakin' fired right back up after being dormant for 10mons and having major surgery. SO FLOORED hearing that motor come back to life. The endorphins and adrenaline were dumping hard, I had the shakes!! So relieved this didn't turn into a fire ball!



Next steps:
- Install the head unit for the stereo, new Pioneer; CHECK
- Reinstall the interior; CHECK
- Go for a shake down; CHECK

First shake down run
: I went out to the gas station to get a full fill up of fresh gas. I had been using jerry cans, 2 gals at a time, to keep the tank full enough for little outings. Always starting in the garage, but never able to shut down and restart anywhere, so it was an out and back trip. I wanted a legitimate fresh tank to run on.

Memory and timeline are foggy now, but at the fill up, hit the key and FIRED right away!! This hasn't happened in years. Mission accomplished, hot restart reliability seemed restored! Soo Happy and Relieved! I would have been stranded otherwise prior to this undertaking.


Such a great shake down run! Radio and new speakers work amazing, everything running, battery getting charged, soooo gratifying.



Saturday Cruise! April 2023.
I met up with Kevin McDonald and Kyle McDonald, RDP affiliated and HIH guys, which through HIH, we found out that we are neighbors, both in RSM, CA and Havasu. Our Havasu homes are one street over from each other. COOL DUDES!

Kevin is Rollin' his 1969 El Camino, we left Rancho Santa Margarita, and headed to San Clemente, hit PCH and did a big loop back. So much fun. We were joined at one point by a 1969 Chevelle SS 396. So on PCH for a hot second was 69' El Camino, 69' Camaro, and a 69' Chevelle, so fucking cool. Wrapped it up with some cold ones at Board and Brew RSM.

 

85RiverRAT

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Summer 2023!:

My most recent spoils have been just enjoying my classic muscle car, again. Reliability is restored, starts when I need it, runs like scalded dog.
Friday runs to my corporate desk job.
Weekend burns.
Having fun again!

It behaves like a car again, the re-wire was 1000% worth the 10months of effort and investment.

MORE TO COME! Still more that I want to do and experience with this car. Havin' a Bitchin' time doing it!💪:cool:

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RIVERMANBEN

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Great job! Thanks for sharing. You should take your car to San Clemente cars and coffee Saturdays from 9 AM to 11 AM at the outlet mall right off the five freeway.
 

85RiverRAT

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Great job! Thanks for sharing. You should take your car to San Clemente cars and coffee Saturdays from 9 AM to 11 AM at the outlet mall right off the five freeway.
Cars and Coffee is a fun time. We went down there with the Camaro and T-Bird, in Nov. 2023. We got to work on getting out on a more regular basis.

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WINTER 2025:

It is hard to think that I finished up the wiring project in August 2023, and then a year has passed since. Everything is working great, haven't had any issues with the car, or the installation of the Painless Performance kit.

With the car now running correctly, I wanted to address some cosmetic concerns.

The story goes it was a Red on Red, 327, bone stock Camaro. From the best of my knowledge this car was painted in 1997. The owners I purchased it from got hit bad in a rear quarter panel. They went and started a basic restoration to put it back together.

They swapped the interior to all black, repaired the rear quarter, and then painted it the 1997 Chevrolet Bahama Blue, which was the color that the Chevy S-10's and GMC Sonoma's had in 97'. For all I know this paint work is 28 Years Old.

We bought the car in 2000, so it was a fairly fresh paint job. It was a daily driver, and I washed it regularly and used wax periodically, but nothing in terms of proper detailing. It saw rain, I had to get to school. I did this throughout high school, and then through college as a weekend car, it was always stored inside, but as with anything wear/tear and time, has it affects.

It still looked good for the casual viewer, but anybody that owns these toys knows we are way more critical of ourselves and our perspectives of our personal things.

For years, I was under the impression that the clear coat was failing as it was looking very hazy and modeled/marbled.
- Lot of superficial scratches from dry dusting, and wiping with clothes/detail sprays
- Rust bubbles, here and there.
- Buildup of waxes and imbedded particles.
- Road rash in places.
- Dings etc.

I was hit twice on different occasions in high school, neither of them I was at fault, one I wasn't even in the car. So, there is a mix of body work, on both front fenders and the driver side door. When it was in the body shop, they buffed out the rest of the car, on both occasions, and I believe it may have been too aggressive and accelerated the wear.

Fast forward to today.

The issue I see, is that any water, mist, dew, puddle that you splash through, leaves an imprint/water mark on the car, instantly. Same for any droppings, and when you remove the droppings, there is a mark. The whole of the roof and trunk, and now the hood, looks very pasty, opaque, and marbled is the best way to describe it. I backed it out of the garage a few weeks ago to move somethings and it misted for a maybe a few minutes, the whole roof look ruined.

I now have much more experience buffing, compounding, polishing and detailing, I have done my cars, we did the Hallett, and with pretty good results. I am not in a good position to cough up $2,000.00 to have a professional go over the car, and I came to the conclusion that I couldn't make it any worse than it was. Long term there will need to be body work done to address some of the rust bubbles, and other issues.

I have been turned onto Shine Supply, and Chemical Guys, I was traditionally a Meguiar's and Mother's user, I still use certain things from them but, the other two product lines have grabbed my interest and preference.

I had started with the trunk a few months back as a test spot, and it had decent results, but it has since lost the polish and there are DA halos. I will be doing the trunk again. I initially used a more aggressive polish, and didn't get the mirror results, so I need to go over it again with my revised approach.

This time around I started with the roof.

- Clay bar
- White polishing pad, least aggressive.
- Chemical Guys, V38 Paint Correcting Finishing Polish
- Black applicator pad
- Chemical Guys, Jet Seal
- Chemical Guys, Gloss Workz Ultimate Glaze.
- Mother's Carnauba.
 
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85RiverRAT

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I had started before thinking about taking pictures for this thread.

Driver side 1st pass, vs. the Passenger side. You can see the defects in the passenger side.

After the first pass the haze cleared up quite a bit, but the polisher was leaving a 'checkered' pattern.

I think a pro would take it a step more aggressive with a harder cut, but I didn't want to burn anything.
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Close up picture of the starting condition on the Passenger side.
Very rough, hazy, sort of an oxidized look.
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85RiverRAT

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2nd pass on the Driver Side and 1st pass on the Passenger Side.
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In the foreground you can see the scratches and haze, towards the windshield, the reflection/gloss is coming back.
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I finished with 2 passes on both sides. Followed by Jet Seal, and then the Glaze. Everything was looking great. Once I put the Carnauba on some of the discoloration started coming back. Overall, it looks way better. I haven't seen it in the sun yet to see if it looks like a checkered board from the polisher. Under my shop lights it seems fine, and hard to see any overlap issues from the polisher.

Once I put regular wax on the blue has spotting again (light and dark) that plays around in the light (drives me nuts), and I don't understand the condition. That is were paying someone would help, and select a topcoat that works, or cut harder to get deeper into the clear coat. Maybe level the surface more and create a flatter surface for the lighting to reflect more uniformly.

My thought before was that the clear and paint was going and primer was showing through in thin spots, but there is no color coming off in the pads, and the haze cleared up. So, I have to think the clear is there and responded well to this treatment. If anything, I cut back years of buildup, dry dusting, wax, and details sprays.
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85RiverRAT

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Looks great taking a step back and not overthinking the finish.

I think I have a plan now for the rest of the paintwork, it will at least bring everything together to the same level of correction. Right or wrong.

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This is the trunk lid, it was at different polish, and probably not the best technique.
I am going to go over it again with the V38, correct pad and RPM's, to see if the surface brightens up again, and the some of DA halos go away, from the previous attempt.
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kevnmcd

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I was reading through this thread thinking to myself that this sounds just like a good friend of mines story of his '69 Camaro. LOL. Great thread and account of all you have done to that thing! It is even more beautiful to see in person. We definitely need to do another cruise soon. Here are a few pics from our stop at Olemendi's.
 

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85RiverRAT

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I was reading through this thread thinking to myself that this sounds just like a good friend of mines story of his '69 Camaro. LOL. Great thread and account of all you have done to that thing! It is even more beautiful to see in person. We definitely need to do another cruise soon. Here are a few pics from our stop at Olemendi's.
Thanks! Welcome back!
 
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